The RE8 Speakerboxx Thread

[deltron]

Well since all of us will be getting our shiney new RE8s soon I think its time we start sharing our knowledge, or lack of it in my case, about the homes our babies will soon be living in.

I have a NBS EC and took the following measurements underneath my back seat today. I guess this is a start as to where to begin on box construction.

http://marrland.com/images/sierra/stereo/measurements.gif

I am not really sure where to start since this is the first box i am attempting to build. I'm sure some of you are in the same boat, so lets put out heads together and make some kick-a$$ boxes!

[Jailer]

I presume you're looking at building a sealed box for the speakers. Here's a link to a sealed box calculator to figure out what internal volume you'll need for them. http://www.ajdesigner.com/downloads/ajsealed.exe There's also vented and bandpass box calculators available for download at http://www.ajdesigner.com/speaker/bcs.php if you need them. You'll need the specs for the speaker before you'll be able to calculate a volume for the boxes, I searched a bit online for them and couldn't find them.

[deltron]

I am leaning towards a sealed enclosure, both because it will probably be easier to build an because i want a decent sounding setup. RE sugggests 0.217 cubes per driver in a sealed, SQ setup. For "SQL" as they call it which I am guessing is a midpoint between SQ and SPL they recommend .5 cubes tuned to 32 Hz.

Here are some the specs on the RE8:



Fs 22.8 Hz
Re 3.2 DVC
Qms 4.21
Qes 0.38
Qts 0.34
Sd cm2 195
Vas 27.1 l
Xmax 1 way linear 12mm
BL 15.4
SPL 1W/1m 81.2
RMS 175 W
Max 250 W

Additional info

Cutout 7.25
Displacement 0.09
Mounting depth 4"
Weight n/a


I don't really know what this stuff means, but I will be plugging it into one of thsoe box designing programs in hopes that I won't have to do much number crunching.

If anyone has a box built for 4 RE8s in an extended cab setup please post some pics or info if ya could..

[DemoN]

what you need to do is to take the total area that the sub requires for airspace and make sure your box is close to it. my understanding is that they want .37 cubic feet each.

[OKLAGMCRUISER]

what you need to do is to take the total area that the sub requires for airspace and make sure your box is close to it. my understanding is that they want .37 cubic feet each.
Don't forget to remove the displacement of the sub once it is in the enclosure...

[DemoN]

Don't forget to remove the displacement of the sub once it is in the enclosure...

psst, i wasn't going to confuse them...that number accounts for the sub ;)

[deltron]

since the sub has .09 ft^3 of displacement, you calculation would say it needs .46 ft^3 total. That is close to what the re site says with a ported setup. Is that what you are talking about and if so what do you tune it to? (Website says 32Hz)...

[joakwin]

re site says .25cu ft^3 sealed

with 4 re 8's
u would need 1.36cu ft^3 be4 displacement to have 1cu ft^3 after the subs are installed in the box

[deltron]

joakwin,
can the subs share the same air, or does each sub need to be isolated in its own space?

[beerbsct]

joakwin,
can the subs share the same air, or does each sub need to be isolated in its own space?

its best to have seperated. that way if something happens to one the box doesnt become bigger.

[DemoN]

its best to have seperated. that way if something happens to one the box doesnt become bigger.


well, in that exact situation...yes, seperate boxes would be better. but any other time, shared airspace is fine. :wink:

[beerbsct]

well, in that exact situation...yes, seperate boxes would be better. but any other time, shared airspace is fine. :wink:

yes thats right. but me id rather spend the time to make chambers than spend the money for blown subs. :wink:

[slaterbj]

Just as an FYI. I am going to fiberglass the bottom of the sub enclosure to fit to the floor and build a traditional mdf box for the rest. The 4-8's will be firing up into the rear seat. I have had that configuration for my 10's for a while now and love it.

[x6369x]

http://marrland.com/images/sierra/stereo/measurements.gif

If I remember correctly, the rear seat of my NBS crew-cab is 54" wide. So let's say it's the same on the EC's.

So, I can take a wild guess on your airspace.

Divide up the boxes into 3 seperate chambers, then add them up:

passenger/driver's side:
7.5/9.5 x 10.75 x 19.00 => (8.5-0.75-0.75) x (10.75-0.75-0.75) x (19.0-0.75)
= 0.93^ft x 2 = 1.86^ft.
*Note: The width is only minus 0.75" for MDF instead of 2 0.75" pieces.

tranny hump area (width is width of seat minus passenger and driver's side width):
3.25/5.25 x 10.75 x (54.0-19.0-19.0) => (4.25-0.75-0.75) x (10.75-0.75-0.75) x (16.0)
= 0.31^ft.
*Note: The width doesn't take into account the 2 pieces of 0.75" MDF, because it's not needed.

So the approximate net volume is 1.86^ft + 0.31^ft = 2.17^ft.

[Exalted512]

well, in that exact situation...yes, seperate boxes would be better. but any other time, shared airspace is fine. :wink:
also helps with bracing...if youre going to have a box that spans the length of the back seat...its best to have some walls in there to prevent flexing...etc
-Cody

[deltron]

thanks for those calcs x6369x.

it doesnt look like i will be able to have the room to mount a downward firing sub between the hump and the seat. its 5.25" high, and with a sheet of mdf on the top and bottom, that brings down the height to 3.75.

I definitely have plenty of room under there for the speakers, im just trying to figure out the best shape and size for the box. does anyone have bass box pro, or is pencil and paper the preffered method?

[x6369x]

Build it according to your drawing and fire the subs forward:

http://marrland.com/images/sierra/stereo/measurements.gif


So the approximate net volume is 1.86^ft + 0.31^ft = 2.17^ft.
If you factor in bracing and speaker displacement and a slight margin of error, you're prob gonna be close to 2.0^ft. So roughly 0.5^ft per RE8.

Now, to make the design as least complex as possible, I would divide the box in the middle, and put 2 subs per half, then you'll have about 1.0^ft per pair.

If you wanted to be crazy and put each sub in it's own enclosure, it'll take a lot of math/geometry skills to figure out where to put the dividers at. And because the box isn't a perfect square, it'll be a big PITA.

If you need to cut down the volume a bit, place chunks/blocks of MDF in the box to decrease the airspace.

[addiction2bass]

why not just ditch the back seat and go ported :D from what ive heard these realy come alive ported. :D
what ive wanted to do is line all the subs up on one side of the truck put the amp in the middle or on top of that box and then find a small bucket seat to put back thier so ya still got a seat for a 3rd passenger if you must! ;) but with my 10 RE10s i dont think ill have enough room unless i do a wall on one side of the truck.LOL

[deltron]

i definitely wont be ditching the back seat. and the .5 ft^3 per driver is only if its a ported enclosure right? on their website it says .217 for a sealed/sq setup.

[addiction2bass]

awwwwwwww.LOL

well you could always build the box so it comes out in the center and goes into your consol or a custom made consol for alot more box air space and definatly port them ;) anythings posible with just alittle work. ive seen some killer consols all custom made.

id like to make me a custom one like on the newer trucks but the only thing i wanna be able to lock up is my pistol :D sometimes i cannt carry it with me and right now i cannt lock it up in anything :(

just something to think about...

[x6369x]

i definitely wont be ditching the back seat. and the .5 ft^3 per driver is only if its a ported enclosure right? on their website it says .217 for a sealed/sq setup.

So port it, and let em come to life!!!
http://www.reaudio.com/html/images/sqsql_04.gif

[x6369x]

Here's belmontrider's box:
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/118335/3
http://www.public.asu.edu/~dtoney/newbox032.jpg
The box is for two RE SE10's and is designed according to the recommendation given by RE. It is 2.5 cu.ft. net, with two 5" x 2.75" (27.5 sq.in.) port - both 25.75" long. The tuning frequency is 32 hz.

[VisionxOrb]

I dont think that .217 is accurate for SQ, I say that because from the info I have the .217 plus there displacemnt is about .25 persub need for a box. I have 4 in a 1cuft box in my crewcab and they dont hit the low lows, now on stuff i dunno id say around 45hz ( didnt use a tone generater just ear ) it hits like nobodys buisness but when asked to hit low stuff ( like ive done with me 2 10s in the past ) the output is lower than it should be. so with that in mind i get the feeling the box isnt large enough.

[addiction2bass]

[QUOTE=x6369x]Here's belmontrider's box:
QUOTE]


dang thats preaty nice other than the side panel needed to be finished.LOL

[deltron]

I dont think that .217 is accurate for SQ, I say that because from the info I have the .217 plus there displacemnt is about .25 persub need for a box. I have 4 in a 1cuft box in my crewcab and they dont hit the low lows, now on stuff i dunno id say around 45hz ( didnt use a tone generater just ear ) it hits like nobodys buisness but when asked to hit low stuff ( like ive done with me 2 10s in the past ) the output is lower than it should be. so with that in mind i get the feeling the box isnt large enough.

Ahh that is just the info that I need to hear. Would you suggest doing a sealed enclosure with around .5 ft^3? This is my first box building experience, so I am a little hesitant to try a ported enclosure right off the bat. But if its gonna make a night and day difference like some of you are saying, it will definitely be worth persuing.

If I do go with a ported enclosure, I'm guessing that the subs should be sharing their air right? Otherwise you would need to build a port for each chamber. Unless you did something similar to belmontrider, except for one 10 on each side, it would be 2 8s, with the ports being in a similar location.

Also, visionx, do you know if their size requirement is definitely before displacement like you said? I emailed re about this, but don't expect to hear back anytime soon from them.

[VisionxOrb]

Ahh that is just the info that I need to hear. Would you suggest doing a sealed enclosure with around .5 ft^3? This is my first box building experience, so I am a little hesitant to try a ported enclosure right off the bat. But if its gonna make a night and day difference like some of you are saying, it will definitely be worth persuing.

If I do go with a ported enclosure, I'm guessing that the subs should be sharing their air right? Otherwise you would need to build a port for each chamber. Unless you did something similar to belmontrider, except for one 10 on each side, it would be 2 8s, with the ports being in a similar location.

Also, visionx, do you know if their size requirement is definitely before displacement like you said? I emailed re about this, but don't expect to hear back anytime soon from them.

for a ported box, I dont know what I would do as im not really into them execpt tune really low. as for a sealed for for 2 8s id shoot for box that was .62-.65 total the.62 should be right inline REs specs and the .65 is just a tad more. thats for a sealed.

[addiction2bass]

ya once you port you wont go back! youll wonder why you never went ported ;) youll posible loose alittle punch but it will make up for it double in how loud it gets :D

building boxes realy isnt to hard BUT TEST FIT TEST FIT TEST FIT!!!!!!!!!!!!! build the outer shell like that one guy did with his and make sure it fits before ya finish it.LOL thats the only way to get the perfect fit! and with his setup he made his own set of seat lift brackets.......... remember that. no big deal tho...... you cannt beat a good job done by yourself! covering in vinyl would be preaty hard to get all the wrinkles out for a first timer..... for your first box id just cover it in some cheap speaker box carpeting.... easy to work with and everything...... :) but if youd like a REALY NICE JOB you could sand the box all down and paint it to match the interior or exterior deending on your taste. :D that would be killer!

and with the port you can either have it single port/single encloser, or dual ports dual enclosers.your hardest part will be finding out how to shape the port :( or maybe you could use some of those JL bendable ports and just cut to length. tho ive never used them. im a slot ported type of guy but a PCV pipe works just as good

[shifty]

www.proboxrocks.com

The above link is what you are looking to build, but they do it better and its affordable. Enjoy!!!! :head:

[deltron]

They dont have a box that houses 4 8" subs.

[x6369x]

Contact Subthump @ sales@subthump.com. I inquired about a box for a Camaro for a friend, and they will customize boxes for you. It don't take a few mins to send out an email with what you're looking for and the specs of your sub.

Here's what they have for GM trucks:
http://www.subthump.com/silverado.htm

[joakwin]

right now i have a box that is almost done for 4 re 8's, its gonna be .4sealed per sub, but im making it common camber,
im just waiting for the 8's to get here, because i still need to cut the holes out for the subs, but the subs are gonna be really close to each other, also i don't know the cut out dia for them

im gonna power it with my jbl gto 1201.1
1100watts, gonna be 275w per sub or 137.5watts per coil,

but im gonna try them out and see wut they sound like, but their gonna go in my wifes neon when done, because im about to sell my single 12 to a guy at work,

so i don't want to be bass less when working on my new sub box,

also i need to figure out how to wire the subs to a 2ohm load, i know it can be done

laters

[addiction2bass]

wire each subs voice coils in series should give ya 8ohms to each sub, parrellel them all together sothe pair will be 4ohms and all 4 together will be 2ohms ;)

[Einzee]

http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html

For anybody that does not understand how to wire multiple subs, go to the above addr for extremely detailed diagrams.

Also if anybody would like a box program, I am offering Bass Box Pro 6 complete registered to those who PM me with email addr. winrar is needed by those who recieve this prog. and its just over 12 MB so please have enough room in mailbox.

[x6369x]

wire each subs voice coils in series should give ya 8ohms to each sub, parrellel them all together sothe pair will be 4ohms and all 4 together will be 2ohms ;)
Like dis:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wiringwizard/4_4ohmDVC_2ohm.gif

[beerbsct]

now that they are on the way, does anybody have any simple plans drawn up?

[DemoN]

now that they are on the way, does anybody have any simple plans drawn up?

i have very detailed plans. i'm just not posting them. :D keeping the console build on the low-down :thumbup:

[deltron]

:gay:

[DemoN]

:gay:

eat me...it won't do any of you any good anyway...i'm mounting them back to back in a center console.:read: :LOL:

[addiction2bass]

LOL
like its realy secrete.LOL its a console box.....LOL
just bust out the MDF or fiberglass and have at it. :)

it could be worse. could be like me and realy not planed anything yet :( LOL
alls i know is its gonna be a BIG BOX. well actualy im gonna do two boxes that way its easier to get in and out. ;) a 12 cube box would definatly be heavy!!!!!! LOL
tho my box is gonna kinda be hard to describe because both boxes will hld 5subs and ports ontop and botom. but only one port will be used at a time. so it will have a block plate. ;) one on top so i can seriously jack up peoples hair ;) and the lower for daily driving in the winter. and if i dont have much port noise then in the summer ill leave the top port open for alittle breeze to stay cool :D
and well if the top port doesnt have any bad port noise ill posibly cut down the other port to tune it higher for comps or just to show it off realy loud. only problem would be the crapy looken clamps to hold the port block solid :( but it would beat the hell outta screwing and unscrewing the block! this way i could swap the block over in less then 5 seconds ;)