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mrflames
03-03-2005, 10:43 AM
iam trying to make more room in my cab. i was looking at moving my speakers in to the bed. i have seen this done where they cut a hole in the cab and the bed so the sound can come threw to the cad have any of you done this . i was think that it may weakin the cab some :dunno: and what do you use to seal the gap between the cab and the bed. any input on this would very helpfull thanks

anthony

Chvyheavy
03-03-2005, 12:27 PM
I have seen this done a lot but I don't think I have evere actually seen it in person. They usually make ports out of wood to channel the tunes into the cab and then of course seal the prots up really well and protect them from the enviroment. I hope this helps give you some idea.

OKLAGMCRUISER
03-03-2005, 12:31 PM
an rv gasket is used to seal between the bed and the cap...oops cab...

Exalted512
03-03-2005, 12:47 PM
yea, basically, what most people do is make the box in their bed and have the subs firing into where the back of the cab would be. but yes, you would cut it out. you dont want to directly connect it to your cabin because itll break b/c your bed flexes opposite your cab. so youll use a big ass grommet like what okcruiser said
-Cody

Va'sFinest4x4
03-03-2005, 01:34 PM
I would imagine it would affect your truck structurally. You might get more flex or someething in the cab. I dont know but just things I would think

idbl_Fanatic
03-03-2005, 02:20 PM
Nemy is getting ready to do one in a Ford..............so we really can't take his word on structure ;) But really I have done these in the past, and have had no problems

x6369x
03-03-2005, 02:24 PM
Nemy is getting ready to do one in a Ford..............so we really can't take his word on structure ;) But really I have done these in the past, and have had no problems
:moon:

OK, this is my next project (for a friend) ... 2 15L7's in a cut through powered by a Hifonics BX2200D.
Here's what I have to work with:
http://home.comcast.net/~x6369x/pics/shane/shane001.jpg
The box (which I am still building) is gonna be 9 cu ft, and reside just infront of the airtanks.
Hopefully it'll be all done in the next couple weeks.

seth350
03-03-2005, 02:26 PM
Talk to 95stroked (i think thats his name) on here, he has it done in his truck with 2 Treo's.

mrflames
03-03-2005, 02:54 PM
:moon:

OK, this is my next project (for a friend) ... 2 15L7's in a cut through powered by a Hifonics BX2200D.
Here's what I have to work with:
http://home.comcast.net/~x6369x/pics/shane/shane001.jpg
The box (which I am still building) is gonna be 9 cu ft, and reside just infront of the airtanks.
Hopefully it'll be all done in the next couple weeks.what are you going to use to seal the gap with i was think a camper boot like okla said

x6369x
03-03-2005, 02:56 PM
what are you going to use to seal the gap with i was think a camper boot like okla said
Yup, campershell boot and making a "port" that goes through the cutthrough hole that attaches to the box, so all the sound is "ported" into the cab. The hole is going to be 48" x 10".

Ghostcustoms
03-03-2005, 09:12 PM
I have done a cut through. Was solid mounted to the back of the cab then cut the bed around the box. Me and my buddies prefer this for mild installs. It took 20 hours start to finish.

I tried to find pics but SoCalcustoms.com has grown so much...

mrflames
03-04-2005, 07:44 AM
I tried to find pics but SoCalcustoms.com has grown so much...thanks for looking

95stroked1500
03-04-2005, 09:57 AM
you can look in my gallery, i have attatched mine to the cab and have several pics of it.
the "boot style" is faster and easier, but does leave the cab with less reinforcement. something you won't think about...........unless you are misfortunate and get into a major wreck. there's plenty of ways to get the strength back if you want to be safe.
either way, you need to bedliner the box to keep moisture off of it. if you're gonna cut, make it worth your while and plan something that will pound.

Pyrite Z
03-04-2005, 10:25 AM
I have done this mod several different ways.
I will try to describe them from easiest to most difficult( more work).
The easiest and fastest is to use a camper shell accordian boot. it will give you the most flex and looks pretty good when finished the boot has a pinch molding molded into it so it will fit onto the sheetmetal. I do recomend using a naval jelly or some other kind of primer on the bare metal in the cutout. Also you should put a small bead of silicone into the pinchmold to help seal it.
And when you make the cut do not cut the hole out with squared corners you should round the corners because the boot is rounded.
the second way i have done this is instead of using a boot you can use a bicycle tube and pinchmold you probably will need 2 tubes for this one.
make your cutout like mentioned above (rounded) and split the bike tubes in down the center and cut the tube in half so the tube is no longer a O but now looks like a C. now this step is important you have to start at the center at the top and center the tube so the ends will drape down the sides evenly.
you can start using the pinch molding on the cab. hold the tube @1/2" to 3/4" past the hole and push the molding on to the cutout working down one side and then down the other also work the tube molding combo on the bed. Now the tube will not fit all the way around the cutout unless you have a small cutout( I'm not gonna say hole here...lol) now comes the trick part after you have the top and sides done you need to do the bottom start on one side and overlap the tubes at least 4 inches and put some sillicone sealant in the overlap and just continue working the tube and pinchmold around to the other side. and your done.
btw dont worry about how the tubes look and the molding too cause when you wrap the opening with carpet it will hide the tube and molding. and as for the outside between the bed and cab all you can see is a black tube.
One other way I did this was for a walk-thru in my 85 nissan king cab :rice: I used the camper shell boot. I cut it in the center at the bottom and draped it down the cab and bed on the sides and on the bottom at the bed floor I formed a piece of sheet metal and attached it to the bed floor but I didn't attach it to the cab wall. cause the cab and bed flex I didnt want to tear it out. I know that :nopics: but this was back in the day and I didn't think to take pics.

x6369x
03-06-2005, 07:47 PM
Before ...
http://home.comcast.net/~x6369x/pics/shane/shane010.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~x6369x/pics/shane/shane014.jpg

After a couple hours of :hack: ...
http://home.comcast.net/~x6369x/pics/shane/shane011.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~x6369x/pics/shane/shane015.jpg

bgdnbln
03-06-2005, 09:25 PM
yep use boot gasket from a shell between the bed and cab make sure to put the seam on the bottom and use silicone on it so it stays water tight i have 2 12s in a bandpass in mine

x6369x
03-06-2005, 11:23 PM
yep use boot gasket from a shell between the bed and cab make sure to put the seam on the bottom and use silicone on it so it stays water tight i have 2 12s in a bandpass in mine
Yup, that's the plan. Got pics of your set-up?

bgdnbln
03-07-2005, 09:04 PM
its a work in progress so i still have to glass the trims over the amps and put in the rear wall ..

Exalted512
03-07-2005, 09:43 PM
looks good mane, cant wait to see the finished product
-Cody