View Full Version : Open Element or Stock housing?
Z71OffRoad
10-18-2005, 07:45 PM
I have a 92 Chevy Silverado with the 5.7L tbi. Will I get more performance out of a K&N XStream set right on the throttle body or with the stock housing? I have a pipe replacing the silencer and would add a green performance filter to that. I just dont know if the cold air from the fender would be better or the open element sucking engine heat in.
mikeoxlong
10-18-2005, 08:19 PM
Lot of opinions on this subject. I tend to think that all the automakers use cold air systems for a reason... detonation. Here's a link to an interesting article on the subject. (www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/HotAirWARNING.pdf) (Warning, it's PDF)
Z71OffRoad
10-18-2005, 08:27 PM
Thats what I am afraid of is detonation. But I know a lot of guys that say otherwise and was wondering what everyones take on it is.
CHEV4LIFE
10-18-2005, 08:56 PM
My take is this, During the height of the speed demon years 1964-1971 everything was open element, and some of these vehicles were the fastest of all time, Ie COPO camaro, Chevelle 454, etc etc, if its good enough for them its good enough for me, plus if you really want to pull the rubber stopper thing off the hood(cowl induction):D
1989K1500
10-18-2005, 09:00 PM
My take is this, During the height of the speed demon years 1964-1971 everything was open element, and some of these vehicles were the fastest of all time, Ie COPO camaro, Chevelle 454, etc etc, if its good enough for them its good enough for me, plus if you really want to pull the rubber stopper thing off the hood(cowl induction):D
:word: Except people on here said they had probs with pulling off the rubber thing. Water can get on your dist and then your gunna get a nice miss everytime it gets wet.
Frankenbiker
10-18-2005, 10:01 PM
:word: Except people on here said they had probs with pulling off the rubber thing. Water can get on your dist and then your gunna get a nice miss everytime it gets wet.
Been there, pulled that off. Driven in several rainstorms and been rained on several times when parked. No problems yet. Can't say if it got any real benefit, but since it's not hurting anything, and at least the theory is sound......
-blaine
bretsk2500
10-19-2005, 06:58 PM
I've been running an open element for quite a while on my '88 350. I've not had any problems w/ detonation even with +4 deg base timing and 89 octane gas. the biggest killer isn't the stock housing.. it's that damned PCV ring under it. so either get a Hypertech powercharger "salad bowl" and mod the stock housing or run a flat bottomed 14" or 10" OE to get rid of it. I'd go with the OE, cause I love the sound of them.
CHEV4LIFE
10-19-2005, 08:14 PM
Why even use that ring at all?, i got rid of mine, and put a chrome breather in the rocker cover
chevy_ss_383
10-19-2005, 08:51 PM
Lot of opinions on this subject. I tend to think that all the automakers use cold air systems for a reason... detonation. Here's a link to an interesting article on the subject. (www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/HotAirWARNING.pdf) (Warning, it's PDF)
i read the article. has some very good points. but im calling f***ing bs on the drawings. in the top one (cold air test), you got 70* air going into the tb from the air filter, and 135* air being bypassed back to the tb. and that "APPARANTLY" adds up to 270*. im no genius, but using my 2nd grade math skills (thats when we started adding the big numbers together :clap: ) 135 + 70 = 205. where the f*** did they get the other 65*???? plus, last i knew, when adding things of different temps, the temp of the end product would be the average of the originals (based on amounts added, and temps of each amount) in the hot air test, it says 200* air mixes with 200* air (one from air filter, other bypassed back to tb), and "APPARANTLY" that is going to add to 400*. theyre trying to tell us that by adding 2 things that are the same temp, the temp is going to double. bs, for those of us who passed 8th grade science, we know that when boiling water, it MAXES at 212*. going by kenne's "theory" i can take two pots of boiling 212* water, pour them into one, and get 424* water, well beyond the max possible water temp. i got nothing against them, and personally i think they make great products. but that is the kind of :bull: that will keep me from buying a companys product.
CHEV4LIFE
10-19-2005, 09:24 PM
well chit, i was away that day in grade 2, and i failed science in gr 8 no wonder i dont understand anything :idiot:
oldred95
10-19-2005, 09:30 PM
Fuq the stock ****. Run an open element.
CHEV4LIFE
10-19-2005, 09:43 PM
:word: x100
jared1217
10-19-2005, 09:45 PM
I've been running an open element for quite a while on my '88 350. I've not had any problems w/ detonation even with +4 deg base timing and 89 octane gas. the biggest killer isn't the stock housing.. it's that damned PCV ring under it. so either get a Hypertech powercharger "salad bowl" and mod the stock housing or run a flat bottomed 14" or 10" OE to get rid of it. I'd go with the OE, cause I love the sound of them.
Got any pics of a set up like that?
oldred95
10-19-2005, 09:48 PM
You guys are making this too damn difficult. All you need is an open element assembly, a push in style breather with a 3/4 inch neck and a PCV valve grommet.
Taa Daa:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/oldred95/2ee15f51.jpg
CHEV4LIFE
10-19-2005, 10:02 PM
seriously its not that hard, I only have a before picture, ill have to take an "after" tomorrow,***NOTE*** quality Fram Air hog Filter:D
jared1217
10-19-2005, 10:08 PM
thanx
vic_V8
10-19-2005, 10:34 PM
Open element period
bretsk2500
10-20-2005, 04:56 PM
Got any pics of a set up like that?
Open element air cleaner.
http://home.gwi.net/~amychase/images/edel1.jpg
same motor after adding tall cast AL valve covers, billet breather, MSD 8.5mm wires
http://home.gwi.net/~amychase/images/finished_valvecovers.jpg
04CHEVYYFZ
10-20-2005, 05:13 PM
i read the article. has some very good points. but im calling f***ing bs on the drawings. in the top one (cold air test), you got 70* air going into the tb from the air filter, and 135* air being bypassed back to the tb. and that "APPARANTLY" adds up to 270*. im no genius, but using my 2nd grade math skills (thats when we started adding the big numbers together :clap: ) 135 + 70 = 205. where the f*** did they get the other 65*???? plus, last i knew, when adding things of different temps, the temp of the end product would be the average of the originals (based on amounts added, and temps of each amount) in the hot air test, it says 200* air mixes with 200* air (one from air filter, other bypassed back to tb), and "APPARANTLY" that is going to add to 400*. theyre trying to tell us that by adding 2 things that are the same temp, the temp is going to double. bs, for those of us who passed 8th grade science, we know that when boiling water, it MAXES at 212*. going by kenne's "theory" i can take two pots of boiling 212* water, pour them into one, and get 424* water, well beyond the max possible water temp. i got nothing against them, and personally i think they make great products. but that is the kind of :bull: that will keep me from buying a companys product.
:wtf: It sounds like bullchit to me too.
Z71OffRoad
10-20-2005, 09:12 PM
how do you get the old gromet from the breather line out so I can put the new one in?
oldred95
10-20-2005, 09:21 PM
how do you get the old gromet from the breather line out so I can put the new one in?
Oring pick. You'll have to break it out in chunks. Have needle nose pliers in one hand and the pick in the other to grab any pieces before they fall in the engine.
357mag
10-20-2005, 09:32 PM
That's all well and good for you guys what don't have to put up with gummint smog nazis. They wouldn't even let me out the door without all hoses, etc hooked up.
Tim sends
Frankenbiker
10-21-2005, 06:42 AM
how do you get the old gromet from the breather line out so I can put the new one in?
Simple: Don't take it out. IIRC, Mr. Gasket makes a breather with a narrow neck in it to fit directly into the grommet. I bought one of these, but don't have it or the receipt in front of me to give you a part number. I bought it at O'Reilly's. Autozone should have them, too. I want to say it's a 3/4" hole.
-blaine
97Silverado
10-21-2005, 06:52 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/97Silverado/Picture173.jpg
Fast305
10-21-2005, 02:53 PM
I am making 275 RWHP with a 305 TBI and look what I have on mine. No detonation with 30* of timing @ 2,800 and 91 octane with 9.8:1 compression.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?bg=000000&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/634000-634999/634172_14_full.jpg
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?bg=000000&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/634000-634999/634172_13_full.jpg
My Cardomain (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/634172)
bretsk2500
10-21-2005, 03:14 PM
That's all well and good for you guys what don't have to put up with gummint smog nazis. They wouldn't even let me out the door without all hoses, etc hooked up.
Tim sends
on my truck the "hoses" have all been accounted for... the PCV breather ring was replaced by the one in the valve cover... now the crankcase gets it's air from a different filter and the divert valve hose does nothing more than keep the AIR pump quiet when air isn't going to the exhaust (I am using a non-AIR belt though, so it's a non issue).
my truck'll pass inspection after I change out the idler arm.
bobzilla75
10-21-2005, 04:01 PM
Plus, it's not that hard to change out an air cleaner to pass emissions and then swap it back when you're done.
Z71OffRoad
10-23-2005, 04:14 PM
Thanks guys. Put a K&n XStream assembly on today. I had to put a 1/2'' riser plate on the throttle body because otherwise it wouldn't clear all my electronic connections. But I figure that 1/2'' is better than whatever the stock one was. I also just connected that line to the bottom of my air cleaner assembly. Thanks for all your help.
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