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View Full Version : Anyone up for a huge challenge? What is the volume of my sub box?


Intercooler
11-25-2005, 01:00 PM
Here is the best I can do with Paint. It is 44" wide with a .75" divider at the center seperating the two sides. It measures basically 10" in the front and tapers down at the back to roughly 6.5" with the mid-point being 8"H. It also has a 12"L 3.5"H step at the bottom to clear the hump in the middle of the truck. The ports on it are 3.5" Dia with a 4"L on the insert going into the box. This is the box I got of E-Bay used so I am trying to figure out subs to slam in it. I would like to go two 10" RE-SE's or similar if they will play right. Anyone know how much cubic ft. I have roughly per side?
DSZ71
11-25-2005, 01:31 PM
I get 2.02 cu feet total. But if you do some simple math, your measurements dont match up.

You say the total width 44", with a 0.75" divider in the middle.
So thats 43.25" to each side, your center section is 12" and the rest is 14.5".
So if you add 14.5 x 2 = 29+12" = 41". Where does the other 3" come from? I know you have a center section, but thats only 0.75"
Intercooler
11-25-2005, 01:41 PM
More accurate info.


The box is 49" overall end to end. Subtract .75" x 2 or 1.5" so inside length is 47.5". The raised portion is 17.5" long, not 12". Does your calculation take into account the taper of the box that is has to fit under the seat from 10" in the very front to 6.5" at the rear? If I can squeeze out 1.0 cubic foot after taking out the sub basket I may have it.
DSZ71
11-25-2005, 02:01 PM
I took the measurements as 44 being the outside edges, I didnt know you already subtracted them...in that case, yes you have 2.05cu feet. The taper is easy to figure out, its the two heights added together then divided by 2.
DSZ71
11-25-2005, 02:02 PM
More accurate info.


The raised portion is 17.5" long, not 12".

your picture says 12" thats why I asked...
Intercooler
11-25-2005, 08:35 PM
My measurements were off. Given 47.5" and 17" for the middle section where it is raised 3.5" for hump clearance about how much do I have per side? Any suggestions on subs that will work well in there?
cajundragger
11-25-2005, 08:42 PM
I say plug the ports and throw whatever you want in there sealed...
Intercooler
11-25-2005, 11:12 PM
I say plug the ports and throw whatever you want in there sealed...Any idea what volume I have? How does one go about plugging the ports? That is what I would like to do! Just how to do it and it be right?
DSZ71
11-26-2005, 07:45 AM
Any idea what volume I have? How does one go about plugging the ports? That is what I would like to do! Just how to do it and it be right?

That total volume is too much for a pair of 10s. You might be able to modify the mounting holes and toss in some 12s in there. Your volume is just over 2 cubes....it hasnt changed from what I posted above...:pow:
Just divide it by 2 to get your "per side" volume...
Intercooler
11-26-2005, 08:17 AM
That total volume is too much for a pair of 10s. You might be able to modify the mounting holes and toss in some 12s in there. Your volume is just over 2 cubes....it hasnt changed from what I posted above...:pow:
Just divide it by 2 to get your "per side" volume...RE's site says an SE-10 takes .65 sealed and 1.25 ported to 32 Hz and a SE-12 takes 1.0 sealed and 1.8 ported to 32 Hz. Which do you suggest for me?
DSZ71
11-26-2005, 08:24 AM
RE's site says an SE-10 takes .65 sealed and 1.25 ported to 32 Hz and a SE-12 takes 1.0 sealed and 1.8 ported to 32 Hz. Which do you suggest for me?

Hmm....you have about 1.0 per side sealed....that should be easy...:banghead:
Intercooler
11-26-2005, 08:47 AM
Hmm....you have about 1.0 per side sealed....that should be easy...:banghead:Only problem is the box isn't sealed yet with holes for the ports in it. How do I go about fixing that?
DSZ71
11-26-2005, 08:58 AM
Remove the ports. You may want to try and cut out the same diameter from some scrap MDF to plug the holes. I would add a flat piece of MDF behind the holes (from inside the box) as reinforcement. Wood glue should be strong enough to hold it in place. You might need to re-cover your box so you cant see the modification...
Intercooler
11-26-2005, 09:23 AM
Thanks for your help!


It also has those black inserts at each end (like 2" diameter) where you attach the speaker wires. I thought I read they aren't good either and that you are better off just cutting a small hole for the wires to run through and siliconing them in place. If that is the case I need to plug those too.


As to fixing the holes. I see what you mean about say cutting a 4.5" diameter piece of MDF to cover the 3.5" hole on the inside with silicone and screws. Should I also make another 3.5" round piece and put it in the whole with silicone? Or maybe use Plexi?
DSZ71
11-26-2005, 09:49 AM
Okay, so say the diameter of the hole is 3.5. Cut a piece thats 5" diameter for the rear PLUS an additional 3.5" for the hole itself. Dont use Silicone! Use wood glue and clamp it down so its tight. Once the glue has dried, take off the clamp. Wood glue is stronger bonding than silicone...

Dont worry abou the terminal cup, just use them. If you have worries, seal the inside with some silicone
Intercooler
11-26-2005, 10:46 AM
They are at the ends which is kind of ugly having the wires hanging out there. I don't know why the person had it built that way. Running them to the back would make much more sense! Doesn't terminal cups prevent SQ?
DSZ71
11-26-2005, 11:54 AM
If the are installed correctly why should you lose quality? They need to be airtight, since its a sealed box (or will be when you cover the port holes).
cajundragger
11-27-2005, 09:35 AM
you have to go 10's, you cant put a 12 in a box that is 10 inches tall...
DSZ71
11-27-2005, 10:33 AM
you have to go 10's, you cant put a 12 in a box that is 10 inches tall...

Good observation mane, I didnt even notice that...well done:rocking:
cajundragger
11-27-2005, 10:47 AM
Good observation mane, I didnt even notice that...well done:rocking:
thank you thank you, and to revise what I said, you cant even fit a 10 in a box that is 10 inches tall, or I know at least my IDMAX is a 10" sub and you need about 11 3/4 off height to fit it....
DSZ71
11-27-2005, 11:37 AM
Hey intercooler, what was this box built for originally?
Intercooler
11-27-2005, 12:23 PM
you have to go 10's, you cant put a 12 in a box that is 10 inches tall...
Front face is 14" I believe.
Intercooler
11-27-2005, 12:27 PM
Hey intercooler, what was this box built for originally?Two 10's but don't know much more about it. I will pull it out of my truck today and snap a picture. Crazy how it is put together after taking the carpet off. My drawing shows 10" where it curves up in the front but then it goes up more making it close to 14" at the front. You have to see it! That is the reason why I had hopes of putting 2-12's in there. RE has a sale on their stuff Dec. 5th :thumbup:
cajundragger
11-27-2005, 02:07 PM
just because its 14 on the front doesn't mean you have enough space for the magnet of a nice 12. If its built for 10s put some 10's in it.
Intercooler
11-27-2005, 08:57 PM
I just measured it and got 13" on the face. I also measured my 12" SE and it is 12.5" from edge to edge. With an 11.125" mounting hole I may just make it. Could you imagine what two SE-12's would do to my truck :phatyo:
cajundragger
11-27-2005, 09:27 PM
why don't you knock out the divider then and port it and run a single 12 ported....which should be about as loud as two sealed. I think you gain about 3db when you add a speaker and give the the same power you were giving the first one orignally, and you have about a gain of 3 db's on a slope when you port a single one compared to one sealed.