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philv
08-09-2009, 01:43 PM
You can use a 95 harness. The 95 harness is the one that people have made work because it is the only new dash style truck that still has TBI. A couple have used them with success. I have the 95 harness in mine, and it works with no issues other than the wires to my AC compressor were different. Which is fixable.

You would be able to use just the in cab harness from a 95 if you are willing to have two wiring harnesses in your truck. You would have to keep the complete original harness and go through snipping any wires in the cab that you know are not going to affect anything.

Why would you not just use the engine harness from a 95. You will still have to splice some things together such as the headlights and wipers under the hood since they would now be on the 95 harness as well as all the wiring going to the rear brake lights.

Let me ask you this, are you going to get the new column put in there, which requires you to remove the column brace off the donor and weld it into your truck? This step also requires you to get the brake booster off the donor so it will work with the new brake light switch.

from what I have read, my booster will work with the new column. and yes I'm doing everything but the front seat from a donor vehicle. I don't want to replace my old engine harness cause my brother and I spent like 20hrs splicing all new connectors, and re routing wires. why would I need to keep my old harness in the truck???? my computer should plu into the 95 harness right? does anyone know of a company that sells a whole harness for this conversion? if it makes it easier, then I'd pay for one.

cordatta
08-09-2009, 08:27 PM
I'm not trying to be a d*ck but if you are not real wire savvy this is not the mod for you to do. You will need to use your existing truck harness inside the cab b/c the connectors at the firewall are different for the various years.

The column mount from the 95+ you will need to drill out the spot welds and then you can drill new holes to mount it into your truck. Some prefer welding but it is not necessary.

There are no companies that make a conversion harness. If you have a 94 you will be able to use your existing brake booster and brake switch.

philv
08-09-2009, 08:55 PM
I'm not trying to be a d*ck but if you are not real wire savvy this is not the mod for you to do. You will need to use your existing truck harness inside the cab b/c the connectors at the firewall are different for the various years.

The column mount from the 95+ you will need to drill out the spot welds and then you can drill new holes to mount it into your truck. Some prefer welding but it is not necessary.

There are no companies that make a conversion harness. If you have a 94 you will be able to use your existing brake booster and brake switch.

I hear ya bud. I'm very mechanical, hell I rebuilt 3 of my camaros and rebuilt this truck, but I try to stay away from wiring. I could do it I just need to take my time and get another vehicle.lol how much different is the obd2 harness from a 95 harness? alos what connectors do I need from a new harnes for the swap? I live in junk yard heaven, bout 2500 acres of cars.lol takes a week to go through all of them.

I went to a junkyard and found a complete dash, column, door panels, kickers, and pillar covers from a 98 tahoe for 650. is this a good price? its dash minus cluster, radio, and a/c controls. but it does include the harness, a/c duct, heater box. also do I need the harness or just the connectors?

CDenton503
08-19-2009, 03:39 AM
I upgraded cluster and DRAC from 88 to 94 with tach. Tach and all guages along with all dianostics lights work fine, but the speedo jumps around and sometimes pegs then goes back to zero when stopped.I did not have a problem with the old speedo.
the oldometer moves then stops as it seems like it gets lost.
Bought at a salvage yard. Do you think the DRAC is bad?
Thanks!

Jeff6.0
08-19-2009, 04:17 AM
Thanks MStefak! Great post!

bear123
08-24-2009, 01:31 PM
im lost on this dash swap info i have a 91 chevy and im putting a 98 dash in it i see the numbers on the 98 plug forr the wires but how do i match them up with the old one? i dont see any letters

LayDBurban
09-14-2009, 09:36 PM
ok guys soooo


today i change over my driver door, i did the skin swap on the door, so when it came time to do the wire harness, funny thing is that the 3 plugs where it feeds threw the door to the kickpanel, they plugged up to my 93 harness is this weird or am i like mis informed will this work? everyhting just pluged up i didnt cut no wires or re pin anything, i havent powered it up because i have no bettery yet..anyone run across this?? it was a 1998 suburban/to my 1993 suburban

94~GMC
09-14-2009, 10:11 PM
ok guys soooo


today i change over my driver door, i did the skin swap on the door, so when it came time to do the wire harness, funny thing is that the 3 plugs where it feeds threw the door to the kickpanel, they plugged up to my 93 harness is this weird or am i like mis informed will this work? everyhting just pluged up i didnt cut no wires or re pin anything, i havent powered it up because i have no bettery yet..anyone run across this?? it was a 1998 suburban/to my 1993 suburban

That is weird, I would say somebody must have spliced the new plugs onto the trucks harness sometime before you got it maybe :dunno:

I am swapping in the newer panels into my 94 too, but I am still trying to figure out the wiring.
I can't seem to make sense of any of the info about it on here.

LayDBurban
09-16-2009, 07:11 AM
That is weird, I would say somebody must have spliced the new plugs onto the trucks harness sometime before you got it maybe :dunno:

I am swapping in the newer panels into my 94 too, but I am still trying to figure out the wiring.
I can't seem to make sense of any of the info about it on here.


yeah , so i looked further into this...

the donor suburban is a 97 not a 98 as i stated, i read the sticker lol, so i further looked at the pins and numbers.. the 93 harness to the 97 harness from doors all letters match when plugged up.. i also was able to directly plug the two rear doors from the 97 door harness directly to the original 93 harness,those worked! i try them i didn't have to splice anything..but it was preliminary... now the passenger door the 97 harness didn't plug into the 93 harness it's totally different, so i am gonna go to the junkyard and look threw all their different door harness and match mine if possible.. anyone can chime in and let us kno, if this is a good thing lol

mydropped92
10-12-2009, 11:01 AM
Just some FYI for everyone. I learned some info after doing a swap. I own a 1992 chevy silverado ext. cab, with 60/40 bench seats. The driver side seat was 40% and the passenger side was 60%. I pulled seats out of a 1995 chevy 4x4 ext. cab. They are 60/40 also with the exception that the driver side is 60% and passenger side is 40%.
How the F are/why they different?? The driver side was a direct bolt in for the two holes nearest the driver door. I had to drill new holes for the driver seat on the hump, no biggie. BUT the passenger seat is way different. The seat rails are longer, WHY?? So anyway The rear two bolts are direct fit/bolt. The front two bolts I had to drill new holes. and I have to put a 3/4" spacer under the left side front bolt hole so it will sit flush.

So these are not direct fit.

NorCal_z71
10-20-2009, 12:04 AM
Alright so I may have finally found myself a complete donor vehicle that I can snatch parts from for a decent price....in BLUE! It is a 96 Diesel suburban which will be going into my 94 truck.

My question is what should I get/request off this vehicle to make everything as smooth as possible?

So far i know of:
Door panels (have a tan set at home also)
switches
door wiring (have a cut set at home)
inner door skins/lock rods/handles (already have a set at home though also)
dash skin
under-dash wiring
steering column wiring
steering column and 95+ column mount (drill out spot welds)
A/C door motors + wiring

What about the transmission shifter linkage, will I need that? It is obviously a 4l80e being in a diesel 2500 burb, so will the linkage be different and throw me off? Also, will any wiring that pertains to me be different due to the 4l80e? My plan is to map out all the wires that need to splice between my 94 harness and the 96 stuff to drive the gauges, the lights, radio, etc and then make some sort of plug n play conversion harness using similar connectors for a clean, reversible install. For A/C I am going to acquire all the wiring/door motors/etc off the 96, will this plug into the rest of my 94 system and such?

d_johnsen
10-20-2009, 12:26 AM
the easiest way would be to get the entire vehicle harness, as a diesel harness is quite alot different than a gas jobber, not to mention that 4l80E uses 2 speed sensors, one on the input shaft, one on the output, your harness probably doesnt even have the wiring for a transmission since it is a 94 and that was a 700r4 (Throttle valve cable?)

NorCal_z71
10-20-2009, 12:42 AM
the easiest way would be to get the entire vehicle harness, as a diesel harness is quite alot different than a gas jobber, not to mention that 4l80E uses 2 speed sensors, one on the input shaft, one on the output, your harness probably doesnt even have the wiring for a transmission since it is a 94 and that was a 700r4 (Throttle valve cable?)

the 94 is a 4L60e, 700r4 ended like 5 years prior.

What I am wondering is whether the transmission even comes into play with the wiring of driving the gauges and dash functions, seems it would only interact with the computer and then the gear indicator on the dash which is a mechanical linkage.

gr8twhite
10-20-2009, 11:13 AM
Kinda backwards for the thread topic, but here goes:

My truck is an 89 ext cab and rusty. I've found a rust free (but interior stripped) 97 three door cab.

I want to stay with the 89's interior, just my personal preference (yeah I know, most won't understand, I like lego!).


Will my 89's interior bolt into the 97?

Wiring, electronics and HVAC aren't going to be and issue (or maybe they are?) as it's all comming out of the 89 and going into the 97 "unmolested" (no cutting and splicing).

It sounds as if I need to change out hte column mount for the 89's column to work. True or false?

=)

gr8twhite
10-20-2009, 11:29 AM
Anyway a "gotcha" in my case is the steering shaft on the '94 3500HD is different, and I suspect a little bit longer, than a regular truck. Plus, instead of ending in a rag joint, it has a U-joint similar to the Borgeson replacement shafts. I'm betting though that the '96 column upper half will slide right into it. I sure hope I'm right.

Richard

Anything ever come of this?

I wouldn't mind swapping out the rag joint shaft in my 89 for a universal joint shaft and do away with all the "slop" in the stering caused by a wearing rag joint.

Lots of one ton's in the yards here for donor parts too......

someotherguy
10-20-2009, 01:35 PM
Kinda backwards for the thread topic, but here goes:

My truck is an 89 ext cab and rusty. I've found a rust free (but interior stripped) 97 three door cab.

I want to stay with the 89's interior, just my personal preference (yeah I know, most won't understand, I like lego!).


Will my 89's interior bolt into the 97?

Wiring, electronics and HVAC aren't going to be and issue (or maybe they are?) as it's all comming out of the 89 and going into the 97 "unmolested" (no cutting and splicing).

It sounds as if I need to change out hte column mount for the 89's column to work. True or false?

=)

The biggest hurdle here is that none of your passenger side rear pieces will work with that 3 door cab.

Yes, you'll need to swap steering column supports to use the old column in the new cab. Not really a big job, just not fun drilling out the welds underneath with the hot shards landing on you.

As far as my 3500HD conversion the two column styles do slip together but you get hosed because the '95-up column has a joint inside the firewall, where the old style has a joint outside - you end up with two joints in the middle and the shaft just flops. Since I also had a length issue to deal with I cut up a few spare column parts and made my own intermediate shaft.

Richard

d_johnsen
10-20-2009, 03:10 PM
What I am wondering is whether the transmission even comes into play with the wiring of driving the gauges and dash functions, seems it would only interact with the computer and then the gear indicator on the dash which is a mechanical linkage.

there is a black box that is attached to the shift shaft on the side of the transmission, the shift cable also attaches to the shift shaft, the black box im pretty certian is the neutral safety switch/reverse switch/gear indicator sensor

gr8twhite
10-20-2009, 09:07 PM
The biggest hurdle here is that none of your passenger side rear pieces will work with that 3 door cab.

Yes, you'll need to swap steering column supports to use the old column in the new cab. Not really a big job, just not fun drilling out the welds underneath with the hot shards landing on you.

As far as my 3500HD conversion the two column styles do slip together but you get hosed because the '95-up column has a joint inside the firewall, where the old style has a joint outside - you end up with two joints in the middle and the shaft just flops. Since I also had a length issue to deal with I cut up a few spare column parts and made my own intermediate shaft.

Richard

Thanks Richard.

No prob on the interior third door trim. The front of the cab is stripped out, but the rear is still there.

=)

Too bad about the shaft, I may look at it to see if something can be fabricated with a mix and match of parts. I've always despised the feel a rag joint puts in the steering....

slamd92
10-25-2009, 03:58 PM
after about 8 months of driving with the 97 interior, i am finally getting around to doing the column, has anyone ever done a diagram for wire swapping for the newer column, and is there a way to do the original booster with the new column

someotherguy
10-25-2009, 05:02 PM
gr8white - there's a rag joint in all of the OBS shafts at the bottom where it goes to the gearbox. It's covered by that plastic shroud. The 3500HD is the only one I've seen with the U-joint instead.

On the interior trim, if you start trying to mix-and-match portions so that you can keep the 3rd door trim but use your other older trim, you'll start finding all the "gotchas." First one is that the colors are different shades between the old and new interior styles. Second is that a lot of the pieces won't mix, like old A-pillars won't fit the new dash, up to '95 B-pillars just have a single hole instead of a slot for adjustable shoulder belts, stuff like that.

NorCalZ71/djohnsen - the neutral safety switch/range switch is what you're talking about and you'll find that older transmissions don't have the mounts for it, or the correct shift stud length to clear it. :(

Richard

gr8twhite
10-25-2009, 10:35 PM
gr8white - there's a rag joint in all of the OBS shafts at the bottom where it goes to the gearbox. It's covered by that plastic shroud. The 3500HD is the only one I've seen with the U-joint instead.

On the interior trim, if you start trying to mix-and-match portions so that you can keep the 3rd door trim but use your other older trim, you'll start finding all the "gotchas." First one is that the colors are different shades between the old and new interior styles. Second is that a lot of the pieces won't mix, like old A-pillars won't fit the new dash, up to '95 B-pillars just have a single hole instead of a slot for adjustable shoulder belts, stuff like that.


Richard

Thanks again for the heads up Richard.

Colors aren't really important, the interior is all going to be redone.

Items like the dash and a pillar trim aren't going to be a factor as the entire 89 interior will move over except for the third door area plastic.

The seat belt adjustability may be a bit of a problem, I may just use the later model B pillar trims and go with the adjustable belts.

It will be a project that will take some time, parts swapping, fabbing and head scratching that's for sure.

But I'm up for it.

=)

billyrb
10-27-2009, 09:05 PM
I see that most folks are doing this with 88-94 pickups....I have a 1991 GMC Suburban that I'd like to drop in a 1995-1998 dash & door panels into. Has anyone done this, and if so, what are the differences? I know the outside door shells are different, but are there differences on the interior mounting locations?

NorCal_z71
10-27-2009, 09:23 PM
I see that most folks are doing this with 88-94 pickups....I have a 1991 GMC Suburban that I'd like to drop in a 1995-1998 dash & door panels into. Has anyone done this, and if so, what are the differences? I know the outside door shells are different, but are there differences on the interior mounting locations?

unless you are talking about a very very late year model 1991 and it is the 92-1999 body style (like all 88-98 trucks, 92-99 tahoes/yukons, etc) then it is effectively "impossible". is it doable in a classic body (73-91) suburban/truck, yes, but its going to be a ridiculous amount of custom work equal to basically doing a custom dash. the wiring will be the least of your worries. the door panels will be next to impossible if not impossible. there is no "swap" involved, they are 100% completely different vehicles

billyrb
10-27-2009, 09:27 PM
that's kinda what I was thinking, but hadn't seen any confirmation. Might as well start searching for an Excursion to drop my duramax into then ;)

DeanDalton
10-28-2009, 08:28 PM
Has anybody been able to get wiring diagrams from All-Data?

When I did this swap I found books and wiring diagrams relatively easy to find for the pre 1995 trucks, but impossible to find for the 1995 and up trucks. I may have cracked a code on some of the diagrams. You will still need to figure out how to make the two trucks one though. I can't help you there except to say carefully read this forum.

Anyway, just thought I's throw that out there.

Dean

NorCal_z71
11-27-2009, 02:10 PM
so to properly remove everything i would need for this swap from a donor vehicle, how much time am I looking at? I found a 96 suburban being parted out and I think I am going to go and get the stuff I need, remove it myself of course, and need to know how much time I should expected to spend doing it, got a busy next couple of weeks so I need to plan accordingly.

cordatta
11-28-2009, 11:37 AM
I would say if you are familiar with removing the pieces and know how to do it properly (ie where all the little tabs and clips are at, etc) That it shouldn't take longer than 2 hours to have the complete interior out including all the trim pices, door panels and dash with wiring. I think the 95+ dashes are easier to remove than the 88-93 b/c they are more of a complete unit with no hidden bolts.

NorCal_z71
11-28-2009, 11:55 AM
any special tools (or maybe a list of necessary tools) i should bring along? last thing I want to do is damage anything in the removal process

cordatta
11-29-2009, 04:16 PM
There are not special tools but I would take a 9/32, 10, 13, 15 mm, flat and phillips screwdrivers of various sizes, needlenose pliers, side cutters, and various lengths of extensions for rachets for sure. If you have a decent set of tools that are all in one case take those. If you plan on performing the steering column swap i would take a cordless drill with various bits to drill spot welds out and maybe a pry bar or two.

d_johnsen
11-29-2009, 09:29 PM
http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Chevrolet/1997/Pickup%20C1500/SYSTEM%20WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/

here is a link for diagrams for a 1997 C1500, hope someone finds it usefull

someotherguy
11-30-2009, 05:38 PM
Just a bit of random information for the swap thread.

I recall seeing a while back someone say the '95 column was different from '96-up and couldn't be swapped with the newer harness - that they'd actually experienced a fire from this. They weren't specific about what actually burned. After comparing the columns I don't buy it, and think they had a separate wiring problem or a problem with that specific column.

Today I had a guy needed a '95 column; the only '95 I had left was a non-airbag unit from a 3/4 ton so right off the bat that wouldn't work for him, plus as usual the steering wheel was beat and the hazard button was broken off the multifunction switch. I decided to pull it and the non-original column from my '98 crew cab for a comparison. The column in the crew turned out to be a '97 (no way to mistake it - it has the EVO sensor, but does not have the extra connector on the tumbler for the Passlock II that started in '98) and was an airbag column from a lighter truck.

Anyway long story short, the pinouts looked basically the same other than the EVO sensor which has its own disconnect; the intermediate shaft is different but should swap out (the length and the ends are the same, just a different upper joint style; I provided him with the '97 one just in case) and for grins I plugged the '95 column into my '98 truck (which has the Passlock bypassed) and cranked it up. All functions worked, as I expected they would.

Richard

Mantovanelli
12-17-2009, 08:12 PM
So I am going to attempt this. I have the full dash and new cluster. The wiring harness for my 92 is on the firewall correct? Does anyone have a picture?

NorCal_z71
12-20-2009, 08:03 PM
hopefully (fingers crossed) going to pick up parts for the swap on tuesday. i have access to a 96 burb (diesel) for this swap into my 94 (gas) ext cab. I am just looking to get the 95+ dash, door panels, column, steering wheel, gauges, radio, ac, console, etc, and thats it basically. to do it all right, what parts aside from the obvious will I want to grab? Also, will the diesel engine dash harness present 94 TBI wiring issues? I might be able to get a 95 350 dash harness also.

gr8twhite
12-20-2009, 08:27 PM
hopefully (fingers crossed) going to pick up parts for the swap on tuesday. i have access to a 96 burb (diesel) for this swap into my 94 (gas) ext cab. I am just looking to get the 95+ dash, door panels, column, steering wheel, gauges, radio, ac, console, etc, and thats it basically. to do it all right, what parts aside from the obvious will I want to grab? Also, will the diesel engine dash harness present 94 TBI wiring issues? I might be able to get a 95 350 dash harness also.

Hmm, I do know the diesel tach in the cluster won't work with a gasser, not sure on the rest.....

NorCal_z71
12-20-2009, 09:13 PM
hmmm well i figure since I will have to do this swap likely over a few weeks/months cause of school, I will leave the 94 gauge cluster until I can locate a 130mph cluster or possibly swap to a NBS cluster.

who was it that has the excel pinout spreadsheet?

NorCal_z71
12-21-2009, 05:43 PM
after reading through again, someone mentioned the neutral safety switch? Is that going to present an issue swapping 96 stuff into a 94? 96 is a diesel 4l80e, 94 is a gasser 4l60e.

NorCal_z71
12-21-2009, 06:27 PM
also, does anyone recall (or know of an exploded view online showing) how the steering column/steering shaft remove? What holds the shaft to the box? Is removal very difficult? ANy puller-type tools needed or just basic hand tools?

I will probably remove the 95+ column bracket as well....but how complex would an adapter bracket need to be to make the 94 column bracket work? I have access to everything I would need to make the bracket and between myself and my dad, I am sure it would be incredibly easy. just curious whats different between the brackets.

94~GMC
12-21-2009, 11:39 PM
also, does anyone recall (or know of an exploded view online showing) how the steering column/steering shaft remove? What holds the shaft to the box? Is removal very difficult? ANy puller-type tools needed or just basic hand tools?

I will probably remove the 95+ column bracket as well....but how complex would an adapter bracket need to be to make the 94 column bracket work? I have access to everything I would need to make the bracket and between myself and my dad, I am sure it would be incredibly easy. just curious whats different between the brackets.

I just removed the steering column and shaft from my 94 like a week ago, its pretty simple. You don't need any pullers or special tools, just wrenches.

Basically you unplug all the wiring from the column, then under the dash there are 4 bolts that hold a little bracket to the column,
http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww321/94_GMC/C122109_2319_00.jpg
(thats the bracket in my hand^^) (and you can see just above it where it bolts to the column)
and two nuts that hold that bracket to the big column bracket.

and 4 bolts going through the firewall.
http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww321/94_GMC/column.jpg
(You can see where the bolts go in this pic^^)

When you get all that done the column will just pull out, you don't have to disconnect the shaft anywhere, it just slides apart.

And I'm not exactly sure what the differences are between the 94 and 95+ column brackets, so I don't know if it would be possible to make an adapter or not. :dunno:

Edit: you also have to disconnect the shift linkage, its just a nut or bolt IIRC

NorCal_z71
12-22-2009, 12:06 AM
perfect pics, thanks. so will the steering shaft come through the firewall as well? supposedly i will need both the steering column and shaft to swap over to the 95+ column.

94~GMC
12-22-2009, 12:29 AM
perfect pics, thanks. so will the steering shaft come through the firewall as well? supposedly i will need both the steering column and shaft to swap over to the 95+ column.

Not the entire shaft, the part with the plastic cover closest to the steering box stays on and will have to be disconnected after.

This is how much of the shaft comes through the firewall,
http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww321/94_GMC/column2.jpg

The very end piece there^ slides into the lower section of the shaft, which will have to be disconnected from the steering box. I'm not sure how to disconnect it from the steering box, I haven't tried on mine yet, although from a quick glance I think it should just unbolt as well :dunno:

BigBody90
12-23-2009, 08:16 PM
You really do need to get the new column bracket. It holds the column in the right place and it also has different style pedals. The new style has the brake switch attached differently which is just way easier/better to get the new bracket. You could splice wires to get your brake switch to work, but you still would have to rig up a reverse and neutral switch separately. The new style brake switch is mounted where the booster attaches to the pedal so you need the newer brake booster. Some have used the old one and just drilled out the hole bigger at the pedal.

The old column bracket would need a lot of modification to get it to work because there are multiple things that would need to be changed around.

Long story short, just get the new column bracket, the brake booster and brake switch and never have to deal with any issues.

And get the wiring from a 95 so it will have all the TBI hookups, unless you switch over to carb.

NorCal_z71
12-23-2009, 10:06 PM
So removing the dash from the 96 burb proved to be MUCH more difficult that we had expected. I eventually made a judgement call since it was a diesel vehicle and I figure I may need one more harness for splicing anyway and started cutting wires because it was a huge pain to get out. how did you all "unplug" that MASSIVE group of wires going through the firewall down by the e-brake predal? there is a grey box that some things plug into that I straight up ripped off the inner firewall because we could not see where it was attached/how to detach it and it was getting late. Also just cut all the wires on the engine side of that huge firewall through-plug and grabbed the inner wires and pulled and ripped if right off the firewall after removing the top screw (bottom was impossible to get to without removing lots of stuff in the engine bay).

also, I eventually said f-it and cut 2 groups of wires. One was a small strand about 1/3 of the way over from the passenger a-piller at the very top of the dash/firewall that dove behind the AC parts and off to nowhere that I could see. Then there was another slightly larger strand of wires going to the same basic place about a foot to the left of that (towards the driver), cut that too. I also was confused when we got the dash off what parts from the AC were necessary to take as well, so all I got was that coil-resister assembly that attaches to the top of the AC unit in the cab, maybe its all different on a diesel?

All in all it was a pain to get out, i was expecting it to be much easier (and lighter) and there are just wires EVERYWHERE. the only easy part was the door panels and wiring, that took about 10 mins per side to get out and not crack anything.


You really do need to get the new column bracket. It holds the column in the right place and it also has different style pedals. The new style has the brake switch attached differently which is just way easier/better to get the new bracket. You could splice wires to get your brake switch to work, but you still would have to rig up a reverse and neutral switch separately. The new style brake switch is mounted where the booster attaches to the pedal so you need the newer brake booster. Some have used the old one and just drilled out the hole bigger at the pedal.

The old column bracket would need a lot of modification to get it to work because there are multiple things that would need to be changed around.

Long story short, just get the new column bracket, the brake booster and brake switch and never have to deal with any issues.

And get the wiring from a 95 so it will have all the TBI hookups, unless you switch over to carb.

are some 94 models the same brake config as the 95+? i thought this had been gone over earlier in the thread somewhere and some of the newer model 88-94 interiors had the 95+ style setup and did not require a change.

NorCal_z71
12-23-2009, 10:24 PM
ok and so now, some questions:

Anyone have a pictures/diagram of how the 95+ lock rods go back together (there are 3 I believe?). I have them leftover from the last set of 96 doors I butchered for parts but I have no idea what happened to the pictures of how they go together. The rods are all in a box along with the inner panels, just not hooked up. Its probably semi-self explanatory but still a diagram/pic would help.

Are the other 95+ colors off from the 88-94 as much as blue? I'm not sure if its just a matter of fading, but all the blue parts I got from the 96 burb yesterday are a much darker, deeper blue than my 94 interior, almost more the color of the exterior rather than interior. Its ok, only the door panels will really "show", but we'll see how that goes.

when splicing harnesses (not using a complete 95 setup, thats going to take forever to locate and acquire), are you guys actually yanking wires out of the connectors and re-wiring the connectors, or are you cutting both harnesses and using butt connectors and heatshrink on each wire? If possibly I would really like to just get another 94 harness (easy) and rip all the connectors off and put the 95+ style connectors on the dash ends so its all very clean with no splices. If thats not possible its ok. pics would be helpful.

someotherguy
12-24-2009, 02:28 PM
The firewall block is really, really easy to remove. One T-30 torx in the middle of the connector and it comes loose inside the engine bay, then two 7mm screws hold the block from the inside to the firewall, so easy. No need to cut anything.

If you're going to splice the wires, forget butt connectors. Solder and heat shrink.

The 88-94 colors are absolutely different shades than the 96-up.

Richard

NorCal_z71
12-24-2009, 10:31 PM
The firewall block is really, really easy to remove. One T-30 torx in the middle of the connector and it comes loose inside the engine bay, then two 7mm screws hold the block from the inside to the firewall, so easy. No need to cut anything.

If you're going to splice the wires, forget butt connectors. Solder and heat shrink.

The 88-94 colors are absolutely different shades than the 96-up.

Richard

well the firewall block was already, hmm, ripped out, :lol: we did that. getting late, stuff in the engine bay blocking the view etc etc I know I can get another one if need be.


So, new questions:

There seems to be 2 basic harnesses in the front of the cab; one that in attached/integrated into the dash and one that is attached along the upper part of the firewall (inside the cab). I have all the electrical tape/sheathing stripped from the firewall harness, which appears to have the door/window control wires, etc. What else is contained in this harness? There are a few connectors I have not identified yet. (I had a friend helping me remove the dash from the vehicle the other day so I did not get to keep track of every single plug, wire, etc). Also, this all came from a suburban so I am ripping out the wires that appear to go to the 2nd row doors via the passenger and driver door sills.

When splicing/converting the 94 harness and the 96 harness, where exactly am I making the splices? Does any of the 96 "dash" harness need to come apart for splicing somewhere in the middle, or does it all happen down near the firewall block to mate the 94 engine wires to the 96 dash/cab wires? I am trying to do things slightly different than most I think in that I was to separate the different systems (AC, Radio, Door/Window, Gauge Cluster etc) into their own harnesses to clean things up and make tracking things down easier later on when I do the engine swap.

I am told the diesel cluster will not work with a gasser engine, will a gasser 95+ cluster pop right into place with the diesel cluster "plug" though, and have the wires pinned correctly? Or is the wiring different diesel and gas regardless of them being the same year?

more to come as I tear into it, I have the door wires pretty much sorted

BigBody90
12-25-2009, 03:38 PM
I've went dow the road you are on right now.Do not splice. Get the whole harness out of the 95 truck. It takes about 8 hours of work to get it off, but you will have no headaches. The ac controls are tough to get working and the column is so hard I could not do it.

evlblkwpnz
12-25-2009, 04:35 PM
I've went dow the road you are on right now.Do not splice. Get the whole harness out of the 95 truck. It takes about 8 hours of work to get it off, but you will have no headaches. The ac controls are tough to get working and the column is so hard I could not do it.

If I am understanding you correctly, you are saying that if splicing is done, the AC controls are tough to get working and the column is hard to figure out? If the harness is swapped all of it is fairly easy? Correct? I have a 1993 Blazer and I discovered today that the harness has some burnt wires and lots of splicing and jerry-rigging. I have only been driving it a few days and all of the gremlins are showing themselves. I can't decide whether I want to repair the harness that is in it, forget the swap, sell it and buy a 1995 2dr Tahoe (I want TBI as I have had bad luck with the Vortec intake gaskets) -or- scour the planet for a 1995 parts Tahoe 2dr with good gray interior and guage cluster.... for a decent price, lol. I did find a running 1998 4dr Tahoe today for $1250, but the interior is somewhat trashed and the wrong color. Any suggestions?

NorCal_z71
12-25-2009, 05:37 PM
I've went dow the road you are on right now.Do not splice. Get the whole harness out of the 95 truck. It takes about 8 hours of work to get it off, but you will have no headaches. The ac controls are tough to get working and the column is so hard I could not do it.

i get that the 95 harness is easier, and if one comes along for a decent price then I will be all over it. However, I have been searching for parts for this project for 2+ years, finally got a good deal on the stuff and I am not afraid of wiring. Tedious yes, hard, not really. Since I want to change how the wires are run anyway for my own personal reasons, its going to end up being a fairly "custom" harness when all is said an done regardless of how I start.


Found that my truck does not have the power mirror wires already down in the kick panels, so it looks like I will have to use the "firewall" harness from the 96 regardless to get that working. I plan to separate the wires so I have the following, independent harnesses:

Power Mirrors
Power WIndows
Power Locks
AC
Stereo
Cluster
Steering Column
Lighting

Its not going to be quick, but it just takes time, patience, general understanding of wiring, and a lot of diagrams. Hoping to have the door stuff (mirrors, windows, locks) done before winter break is over so I can swap the door panels.

NorCal_z71
12-26-2009, 12:13 AM
so heres a few pictures to explain where i'm starting to get stuck at. I've been working on the "firewall" harness, the one shown with barely any electrical tape covering it, just bare wires. This harness was attached to the firewall along the upper edge, and seems to carry the door functions (windows, locks, mirrors, speakers) as well as 2 plugs I have been unable to identify yet in the middle, and one on the drivers side end.

this is the white plug at the drivers side end, it was buried down in the kick panel with the other plugs IIRC...any idea what its for? As you can see I snipped a few wires that were spliced with it, they were headed down the sill plate to the rear of the suburban...not needed obviously in my 2dr truck.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/Norcalz71/DashWiring004.jpg

these two plugs (small black and blue on the left) dont seem to have a home either (again, a friend and I were removing the stuff together and were more rushed than I had hoped, left the camera at home, mistake but oh well). they come off the firewall harness near the center of the windshield, not seeing anywhere on the dash harness where they plug into.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/Norcalz71/DashWiring006.jpg

this is what I grabbed of what I believe is the AC/HVAC harness. you can see just to the right of the coil/resister assembly that i snipped 2 wires, 1 white 1 brown, they ran back behind the AC box against the firewall and we couldnt see what they led to. What else am I missing from this to make the AC work? Also remember this is a suburban donor, anything going to be weird with the rear control deal?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/Norcalz71/DashWiring007.jpg

this is a large white connector at the drivers side end of the dash harness, near the fuse block...what is its purpose? also the bright yellow connector in the background on the ground?? And the giant black box/connector thing next to it? It seems to have a lot of wires going in but no real connection interface on the other side?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/Norcalz71/DashWiring008.jpg

these guys are in the middle of the dash harness about even with the stereo/ac wires, one big heatsink thing, one sealed type waterproof connector and one big yellow connector:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/Norcalz71/DashWiring009.jpg

these three were tucked just between the cluster and the radio/ac units, behind the 2wd/4wd switches and were not connected to anything at all....thoughts?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/Norcalz71/DashWiring010.jpg

these three white connectors are on the far passenger side end of the dash harness, i believe they may have gone to the ECU at the far passenger side of the dash or perhaps to the other large group of wires which goes below the AC components on the firewall and passes through the firewall to the engine bay
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/Norcalz71/DashWiring011.jpg

there is also a random, 4 wire connector (black) on the firewall harness, probably just behind where the steering column would go, with I believe purple, black or brown, and white wires, not sure where it leads either possibly the temp/compass mirror up the a-pillar?

any thoughts on this stuff would be great. i've been cutting a lot of stuff out that by educated guess and based on where the wires were leading, I will not need (diesel suburban donor, TBI ext cab 94 truck recipient).

BigBody90
12-28-2009, 08:46 PM
Wiring is tough to switch. Here is what I can tell you off the top of my head. The wires with the yellow on them are for airbags. One of those connectors behind the 4x4 switch is for a cargo light.

haiko
12-30-2009, 03:55 AM
Is it good enough to book the best car in terms of cost in advance and paying just half amount while I book it?

Lik3s4pr3zid3nt
12-30-2009, 11:02 PM
Hello, im new to this forum, and any forum for that matter. i've read thru some of this thread, as i am actually in the process of changing my cab over. I have a 96 K1500 ext cab, wrecked and rusty. i am changing over to a 94 cab. i was wondering what problems, if any i will run into. i plan on using all of my original wiring, but i am just double checking. at a glance, the cabs look very similar, but i have noticed some differences. Thank you so much in advance for letting me know of any problems, i appreciate it.

someotherguy
12-31-2009, 07:51 AM
Off the top of my head,

Bring over the steering column support from your '96 cab.

You'll need to make some kind of filler plate to cover the larger steering column hole on the firewall in the '94 cab. Another member here used a portion of the mounting plate from an older steering column.

Make templates from these areas on the '96 cab so that you can transfer them to the '94;

Harness hole on the driver's side of the firewall.

Slots on either side of the dash where the short dash side trim pieces hook in.

Eyeball the hole where the hood release cable passes through.

Slot and hole for the hood release lever.

If automatic, hole in floor for shifter cable (you'll need to eyeball this one too because the floor pan profile is a little different.)

If standard, you have some real pain to enlarge the hole for the clutch master cylinder and then redrill its bolt pattern. Enlarging the hole is very tricky because on the original cab it's 3 layers of steel and a stepped-size hole, which you really can't cut by hand, so you have to keep at it until you can just barely make the thing fit.

Position of passenger A-pillar grab handle bracket, then sawzall the bracket from the old cab, drill the plug welds, and weld onto replacement cab. I cut leaving several inches of the A-pillar so I can grab hold of it while drilling the welds out. Or if you feel like knocking your windshield out, you could drill it off without cutting the pillar out; I just like having it on the drill press.

That's all I can think of right now, that'll be the most of it. I've done practically the same swap - my '94 3500HD has '96-up interior in it (and complete harnesses, engine, etc.)

Richard

Lik3s4pr3zid3nt
12-31-2009, 10:04 AM
thank you, so much. i wasnt sure what i was going to run into, but it seems pretty straightforward. i just wish i would have asked before i started, that way i was 100% sure. lol. the grab handle on my 96 cab unbolted, you said to sawzall it off? and theres just no hole for the hood release cable or is it in a different position? and what do you mean side trim pieces, like the little triangles that cover the mirror bolts and whatnot? and yeah, i noticed the steering column hole, and the harness hole. thats what got me worried and had me post on here. lol thank you again.

someotherguy
12-31-2009, 05:34 PM
The handle just unbolts, I'm talking about the bracket that is welded to the A-pillar that the handle bolts onto. That bracket does not exist on 94-down trucks. A couple of the welds aren't reachable by drill with the windshield in the way. So you're either removing the windshield, or just chopping a section of the pillar out so you can drill the welds on the press instead (better.)

The hood release cable hole is closer to the edge of the firewall because the handle moved position.

The side trim pieces I mean are the about 9~10" long plastic strips on either side of the dash. On a 88-94 they're part of the A-pillar plastics; on 95-up they are not. They have little slots in the cab metal they fit into.

Richard

Mantovanelli
12-31-2009, 05:48 PM
I have a 1992 K5 blazer and everything on the swap went well from the 97 dash. The only thing on the cluster that is not working is the speedo, any input?

Also on the original cluster wiring diagram it has three wires from the 88-94 pin and only mates with two wires to the 95-99 pin, should I just put two of them to one wire and one to the other wire?

Mantovanelli
01-01-2010, 03:38 PM
Anyone with similar problems?

swb lt1
01-01-2010, 05:25 PM
Anyone with similar problems?

look into what is called a "drac" for your speedometer issue. i havent ran into this problem myself but i have read about it. swapping from certain years to certain years causes this problem because some use the drac and some dont.

hope this helps you somewhat.

swb lt1
01-01-2010, 05:31 PM
i just finished my dash swap, wasnt too bad. i figured that the easiest thing for me to do would be to build my own harness because i have an lt1 motor that runs on a stand alone engine harness.making your own harness isnt as bad as everyone on here says it is, if you understand a wiring diagram and how to read them then you shouldnt have too much of a problem.

another thing, when i was working with this cloumn bracket, someone on here a long time ago said that you can separate the bracket in two pieces and keep the upper half of the bracket welded to the firewall up top and then put the 95+ bottom half of the bracket on. i tried it and you can do it, the vent duct that bolts onto the backside of the dash hits the upper half of the column bracket because it is shaped differently than the 95+ bracket. kind of hard to explain but, use the entire column bracket from the 95+ truck and you will have no issues with that.

Mantovanelli
01-01-2010, 07:43 PM
I am an idiot, onto the research I go! Thanks for the tip man.

swb lt1
01-01-2010, 10:21 PM
anytime, let me know what you find out or if you figure it out. i would like to know for the future

Lik3s4pr3zid3nt
01-05-2010, 08:29 PM
Well, my swap is going fairly smooth. the only problems i ran into was the climate control, it broke. but have any of you guys bought from LRS or late model restoration? i bought my rubber flooring from there, and was wondering if it was going to be a quality product or just a chunk of rubber. thanks in advance.

swb lt1
01-05-2010, 09:31 PM
i buy from LMC truck quite often. they seem to be pretty good.

Mantovanelli
01-16-2010, 05:04 PM
LRC is a pretty good retailer from what I hear.

I have a problem I was wiring the the headlight switch, I managed to wire everything up correctly to where it worked but then all of the sudden when I put the dash back together the domelight switch on the dimmer wasnt working. I pulled it off and checked all my connections and it was working. Does anyone know which wire triggers that to try and trouble shoot a short?

Edit: I solved it, it was a small wiring issue, thanks anyway.

kjk1500
02-09-2010, 05:28 PM
I would like to do this to my truck . Do you have any pictures?

swb lt1
02-09-2010, 06:35 PM
I would like to do this to my truck . Do you have any pictures?

pictures of what?
the completed dash?

kjk1500
02-09-2010, 09:00 PM
Yea the dash . and where could I buy the interior like the dash door panels ect..?

swb lt1
02-09-2010, 11:37 PM
Yea the dash . and where could I buy the interior like the dash door panels ect..?

any junk yard that has chevrolets. or craigslist. anywhere else will probably cost you a pretty penny.

check out this thread. http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/interior-tech/418965-dash-swap.html

TwiztedPiff88
02-11-2010, 03:22 PM
hey guys im new here and i been reading this whoel thread and im still friggen confused.. im tryign to relate all of this to my truck personally... and to be honest my head is spining...

1988 Chevy c1500 4x2 4.3l VC engine..

im doing an interior swap VERY shortly including the dash and guages.. so panels and seats and consoles are no issues i beleive all bolt right up... now where do i start with the Cluster.. i already ripped it out and rolled bacj the OD and then realized i can use my buddies style guages he has a 94 and they look much cleaner.. again where do i start... can someone make this easy for me.. im not retarded but this seems complicated... but im sure it wont be.. HELPPPPPP

t-roy
03-02-2010, 06:07 PM
im new to thiis forum and have a question. i have a 94 gmc , can i swap the dash only ( from a 95) or will i have to change door panels to match?

1badgmc
03-02-2010, 06:10 PM
im new to thiis forum and have a question. i have a 94 gmc , can i swap the dash only ( from a 95) or will i have to change door panels to match?

You don't have to do the door panels if you don't want.

t-roy
03-02-2010, 06:14 PM
thanks, is the dash project something that can be finished in a weekend?

t-roy
03-03-2010, 06:39 PM
ive read a lot of post on here and have got a lot of info but i would like to know what is involved in a 94 to 96 dash only conversion. thanks

t-roy
03-14-2010, 05:06 PM
i discovered that you cant just replace the dash, but you also have to replace door panels. the 94 door panels hit the 96 dash extremly hard

dubmission82
03-14-2010, 07:48 PM
i have been thinking about this swap, but i just have a question.. if i found a 95 can i get all the motor harness inside harness along with ducts ac/heat unit to make it more like plug and play?? will that work with my ecu? or should i get the one off of that truck too?? i am just trying to go the easy way lol by the way my truck is a 94 5.7 ext cab 2wd

94~GMC
03-15-2010, 12:41 AM
i have been thinking about this swap, but i just have a question.. if i found a 95 can i get all the motor harness inside harness along with ducts ac/heat unit to make it more like plug and play?? will that work with my ecu? or should i get the one off of that truck too?? i am just trying to go the easy way lol by the way my truck is a 94 5.7 ext cab 2wd

Ya if you get the entire harness and ducts and hvac unit from a 95 then the swap is a lot more plug and play, I would say its easier that way rather than trying to cut and splice IMO.
I'm just in the middle of the swap myself and thats the way I'm doin it.
I bought a complete 95 parts truck to use as a donor, that way I have everything I need.
I'm not sure about the ecu though, I have never checked to see if there is a difference or not.

dubmission82
03-15-2010, 01:24 AM
i am guessing there shouldnt be any difference being the same engine but you never know..

t-roy
03-15-2010, 04:00 AM
are the door panels a direct replacement from a 96 to a 94? both have power, or will the inner skin need to be changed?and how much trouble is that

dubmission82
03-15-2010, 04:45 AM
as far as i know you have to change the inner skin and door panel.. thats the only difference cause of the handles and where you screw the arm rest to..
i believe the hard part would be the window regulator tracks but maybe someone else can explain this better

94~GMC
03-16-2010, 12:07 AM
Ya for the door panels the inner skin has to be changed too. Getting the inner skin back on is a real PITA IMO
I fought with that for like an hour and still couldn't get it back on properly. I could use a good explanation on how to do it too.

dubmission82
03-16-2010, 03:05 AM
the hard part is getting the window on the tracks for the window regulator.. when i got my truck one of the windows was falling down because one of the arms wasnt on that track
the window had been replaced by the old owner...

t-roy
03-16-2010, 05:56 PM
ok, thanks for the info, but i have another ?. can the inner skin from a 96 manual door be used and mount the regulator from the 94 onto it? my regulator and all is good and the salvage yard wants 100.00 for inner skins and regulators. (wont seperate)

Mantovanelli
04-12-2010, 04:23 PM
The headlight switch from the old style to new style, there is only one brown wire coming off the new style and two coming from the truck harness. Any idea, should I fuse them together?

Mantovanelli
04-13-2010, 01:17 PM
Any help?

t-roy
04-13-2010, 06:27 PM
i cant remember if i had a wire left over or not, try one at a time and check the switch. i went by the diagram and it worked out great

Brill
05-08-2010, 09:44 AM
Sweet thread, it has helped a ton.. I'm all finished with my swap except I, too am experiencing the speedo problem.

My truck is a 93 4wd, I have the "Darc" module already in my 93 harness.. I have a dash and cluster from a 95 or 96 3/4 ton, I can't remember the exact year, its one of those two.

Got the headlights swapped, hvac taken care of, cluster wired in using the info in the first post.... EVERYTHING in the cluster works great, except the speedo =/
Do you guys think I might have done something wrong? or would it being a 3/4 ton (gas engine) cluster in a 1/2 ton be an issue? The only thing I used from the other truck was the actual dash panel, the cluster and cluster pigtail.

vicsfbd92
05-24-2010, 05:40 PM
this thread is awesome...but it has way to much info for me to handle.lol.guess my swap is gonna be alot easyier than these are.i have a 97 4x4 burban im gonna use the harness for everything out of it to put into my 92 truck.i was just wondering if the dash and steering column was a direct swap.but this thread im sure will answer that for me.

MAXIMUS2111
05-29-2010, 06:43 PM
ok...

so if i understand this right...

I can pull the whole dash from a 96 and install it in my 94?


awesome post btw

BOTTLEDZ28
06-13-2010, 01:31 PM
I just read through 30 pages of this swap and I can see why so many people feel confused. there is a lot of unneeded post in here. Someone(s) needs to created a new thread with just 100% correct info on this swap. I think there may have nee 12 good post in here that will help others do this swap. I will be swapping out my 94 dash for the newer style as soon as I get all the parts needed and I will post up pics and info on what I did. I know the swap cant be too hard becasue I swapped a dash from a 97 Z28 into a 91z28 and had all the gauges and switches working the way they should. Granted I didnt do a column swap and I may not evenbother on the truck but I will make up my mind after I see what it look slike. I may even modify the newer plastics to make them fit the older column. Stay tuned

spaini21
06-14-2010, 05:33 AM
i need some help with 91 to 94 cluster swap

dutchs894x4
06-15-2010, 05:06 PM
Ok so here is where I am at. i have a 1989 Silverado single cab 4x4. 350 5 spd. my cab was rotten, but my frame was not. Thanks to Cash 4 Clunkers I got a whole new cab (complete) and a stepside bed very very cheap. I have everything in the cab hooked up still, but here is my big question......... The firewall plug is very very different on the front of the cab going into the engine bay, also I swapped my computer from my old cab into my new one. (have an extra harness left...not sure where it goes, but not too worried) i need to know where i can find a pin-out diagram for the firewall forward so that I can tie my new cab with new gauges and all in. Thanks :banghead:

Mantovanelli
08-28-2010, 08:20 PM
The headlight switch from the old style to new style, there is only one brown wire coming off the new style and two coming from the truck harness. Any idea, should I fuse them together?

If anyone can take a picture of their finished light conversion behind the harness it would be much appreciated.

slamd92
08-28-2010, 09:01 PM
been a while since i did mine but i believe i fused both together into the one, never had any issues...
yea this thread was confusing when i did mine, i just compiled all the info and diagrams and looked through all them to see how many were matching and threw the ones out that didnt make sense, then i went into the ms paint and drew up the correct diagram that made more sense to me, after i did it i had the interior panels dyed and wiring done and was driving the truck within a few hours, i have all the info and diagrams i used, if i can find them in storage this weekend i will post up...

ft541
09-01-2010, 01:10 AM
hey will 97 4dr tahoe front n back seats fit in my 95 2dr? i really wanna swap them they leather so its a come up lol but plz let me know im sure fron seats are the same i think but let me know!!!!

ymaha05
09-19-2010, 05:58 PM
ok. I have a question I have been working on this for days now.I have doors off a 99 denali(with 4 window door switch) My truck is a 89 2 door.(with power locks and switches) does anyone know which wires to hook up from my doors to my dash?
Power locks are not to important (but would be nice)

munrom
12-05-2010, 08:34 AM
I have a 92 reg cab, i was looking into get a 96-98 parts truck and swap out the dash as well as a few other parts but i have some questions.
1st, would i be able to use the 96-98 harness in my old truck with out swapping the computer? ( i know this now has obd2 so i was just wondering about that)
2nd, Would it be possible to use the heater/ac controls out of the 96-98 in my old truck or is it easier to just use the old controls?

thanks for any information guys!

dutchs894x4
12-05-2010, 10:40 AM
I have a 92 reg cab, i was looking into get a 96-98 parts truck and swap out the dash as well as a few other parts but i have some questions.
1st, would i be able to use the 96-98 harness in my old truck with out swapping the computer? ( i know this now has obd2 so i was just wondering about that)
2nd, Would it be possible to use the heater/ac controls out of the 96-98 in my old truck or is it easier to just use the old controls?

thanks for any information guys!

Ok so heres what I ran into when I had to go through it all. Make sure you have ALL the wires from both trucks ( a complete harness is recommended ) I had access to Alldata for all my wiring diagrams, it took some time, but this is how I did mine. As I pulled the components apart, i labeled every harness with what it went to, This made it alot easier when having to splice everything in. The diagrams are pretty simple to understand, youjust have to take your time and double check everything before you splice. The heat and ac controls can be done as well, pretty much the same way. Just so that you have a good understanding of whatyour getting yourself into this is a very good project, also remember to get the fuse box from under the hood of the 96+ cause you will need it. any questions or need any daigrams, shoot me a message.

someotherguy
12-05-2010, 11:19 AM
I have the feeling I'm going to be in a world of hurt on my next project, because I intend to use a Vortec 7.4 with all its goodies, in a 94-down cab and all its stock accessories - steering column, cluster, A/C controls... :D

Richard

89z71-92z28
12-13-2010, 05:25 AM
sorry guys i know im new here but i have tried to search the threads for the info i need to do my swap but every time i think i found somthing it ends up off topic i cant seem to find a straight answer.can any one help? i have an 89 1500 stepside z71 i am looking to swap the gauge cluster from a 92 because it has a tach and a cleaner look.i do have all wiring from the 92 if some one could give me a run down on what needs to be done it would be greatly appreiacted this truck is a daily driver so it cant be down for to long

assclown
12-15-2010, 06:36 PM
My odometer doesn't work on my 90 K1500 and I really only want to swap out the cluster, would swapping in a 92 cluster work without having to rewire?

someotherguy
12-16-2010, 06:15 PM
Tech articles section, there is a write-up with pictures on converting your older (88-91) gauges to newer (92-94)

Richard

89z71-92z28
12-20-2010, 06:27 AM
thanx rich i did go and read the info but what i would like to do is use the whole dash from the 92 because my 89 model had the vinal floor mat and ****ty seat so i swapped everything from the 92. it is a different color all this is left is to switch the dash but what i need to know is where the dash harness goes through the firewall if it will match between the 89 and 92 or if i will have to change the engine bay harness as well i do have everything so it wont be a problem (except for the weather here in ny)or does any one know where i can find a schmatic to change the pinouts to make these two harness match up?

stealthcammo1
01-07-2011, 01:38 AM
i just scored a free dash today and plan on doing the swap soon. anyone have any idea what size resistor needs to be installed to get the v6 motor to read on the v8 tach? and any update info on this swap would be greatly appreciated since some of it was very vague.

stealthcammo1
01-12-2011, 03:45 PM
another question, i dont get the whole abcd...... and 1234...... in the beggining about the cluster swap. anyone care to help me out with understanding that

TRSFA
01-20-2011, 05:47 PM
After spending some time going through the thread, I'm still confused as to whether I can install a 94 instrument cluster, radio, and AC/Heater controller into a 1988 without any modifications to the wiring. Any guidance is very appreciated.

someotherguy
01-22-2011, 12:12 PM
After spending some time going through the thread, I'm still confused as to whether I can install a 94 instrument cluster, radio, and AC/Heater controller into a 1988 without any modifications to the wiring. Any guidance is very appreciated.

This thread is actually for changing an 88-94 to 95-up interior so it's not raelly going to help you with your questions, but in short:

94 gauge cluster into 88 without wiring mods - answer is no. The 88-90 clusters swap out directly with each other; 91 into 88-90 requires very slight re-pinning of the harness connector. 92-94 cluster into 88-91 requires a lot more work but is very do-able and many have done it. Here's the link to the write-up in the Tech Articles section: http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/general-discussion/tech-articles/69806-update-94-gauges-w-tach.html

94 AC/heat controller into 88 without wiring mods - sorta. Some early models didn't have the fresh air/recirculate function so there may not be an actuator at the far passenger end of the AC/heat ductwork box. Also may require a tiny bit of re-wiring but to be honest I haven't studied the schematics/diagrams to see what challenges you may have; it may be trivial.

94 radio into 88 without wiring mods - *should* be a direct swap-out as long as you get all the associated parts; don't forget the silver "brain box" unit hiding under the dash as it's different for each model of the factory stereo.

Richard

Scrapper
01-27-2011, 12:17 PM
Is it possible to go backward?? I have a 1998 Z71 ECSB and would like to go to the gray 94 or earlier dash and seats as long as the cluster is the needle cluster with tach...not the moonie. I have auto 4WD...what will be the problems there?? Would I need to just keep the switch and wiring for that to be rewired in a console or something??

Not trying to put something in the wrong place...but see that most of you are trying to put a dash and such 95-98 into the older 88-94 trucks. Well I love the old interior. I also love my vortec!! :) If someone was interested and would help and we knew everything worked before we started I would love to trade out to the old interior. Yeah I guess I'm the weird one. I have all the bells and whistles on mine...power leather seats, mirrors, tach cluster....its an automatic...and 4WD...don't know how much of a problem that would be...its auto 4WD on the dash...I would probably have to keep those switchs and mount them somewhere....Mine is also gray. The seat is a 60/40. Would love to find the 40/60 or straight bench....have no desire for buckets as I have a big family. What I would like to find is a 94 or earlier...that is complete with tach...A/C...graphic equalizer in the dash would be nice...but not a must. Mine is gray...would have to go back with gray. Would trade out seats, dash, cluster whole bit.

Thanks guys!!

someotherguy
01-28-2011, 08:39 AM
The biggest problem with either swap is a lot of the parts aren't compatible between the two generations so you find yourself swapping everything. In your case with the '98 extended cab, you've got the third door, yeah? The pre-third door interior parts won't fit since everything was redesigned around that third door area. So you say OK, I'll leave those original parts in place. Then you notice the color shades don't match. By a lot. OK, no big deal but I know it'd bug the hell out of me. There's also a lot of "if you change this piece you must change that piece" fitment issues, and so far we're just talking about cosmetic trim panels, not electronic stuff like dash cluster, A/C controls, etc.

It's a dilemma I've tried working out in my head because I'd love to have a third door cab but I really can't stand the new style interior.

Richard

Scrapper
01-28-2011, 09:37 AM
I hear that...can't stand the new interior. But about decided just to try to find an older set of seats and stick with that. I do have the third door...and the grays are quite a bit different now that I think about it. I've had 7 trucks in this era and love them. The best by far truck chevy ever built IMHO. The 73-87's were great...but the fit and finish of these were better...last of the true "heavy built" trucks.

claytonhaske
01-30-2011, 01:07 PM
hello everyone, i am new to this site, and dont know if this question belongs in here or not, but, would it be easier to swap the whole cab from a 95-98 to a 88-94? instead of doing a bunch of re-wiring, and swaping? i want to put a 95-98 cab on a 88-94 frame and was wondering what all i had to do? thanks, clayton
please feel free to pm me.

1989K1500
02-02-2011, 04:21 PM
Has anyone actually figured out how to change from the earlier heater controls to the 95+ heater controls? I have seen talk of it in here but never saw anyone say for sure they had pulled it off.

I have a heater box and everything that I could put in. Pretty much gutted a 99 tahoe so I should have everything I need.

Z71Chevy1500
02-16-2011, 06:27 PM
alright, everytime i try to hit form tools to post new thread the dang red bar under neath it is in the way so i'm going to have to post my question here. Ok i have a 98 chevy 1500, i'm trying to take the dash out of the truck so i can repair the cracks and make fix my dash rattling problem but I need to know how to get it out of there. I took everything apart and on the passenger side it is still connected somehow and i can't figure out how to disconect it from that side. Could y'all help me out. it looks like there is little rubber thing that on the inside of the dash have a piece of metal sticking through a bracket. I think that's what is holding it on but i can't figure out how to release them.

454Cowgirl
03-03-2011, 01:29 PM
Has anyone actually figured out how to change from the earlier heater controls to the 95+ heater controls? I have seen talk of it in here but never saw anyone say for sure they had pulled it off.

I have a heater box and everything that I could put in. Pretty much gutted a 99 tahoe so I should have everything I need.

If you gutted a Tahoe, there isn't much to it, use heater/A/c box from the Tahoe and connect it from there. I'd have to dive back into my wiring diagrams. Heck my truck had manual levers and no A/C before (well I don't have the compressor attatched currently). If I remember it was fairly easy.

After I read this thread I thought "was it that tough"? Wow I did it in 2 days, no need to weld the steering column to the old one (or cut in half), it can actually just be taken apart at the joint and it fits. I did a 92 to 98 swap, still need to use the columns brackets as they do talk about, the brake pedal and a little welding for the column through the firewall. But I've got cruise now and never had it before (after a cruise controller addition). Heck the 98 I took mine from was a diesel truck and mine is big block.

someotherguy
03-03-2011, 02:54 PM
There is a definite shape difference between the 88-94 and 95-up steering column support; I've seen people mix/match but figured the best way was to just replace the support. It's not hard work.

http://www.someotherplace.com/bb/projects/35hd_18s.jpg

Richard

454Cowgirl
03-03-2011, 04:28 PM
There is a definite shape difference between the 88-94 and 95-up steering column support; I've seen people mix/match but figured the best way was to just replace the support. It's not hard work.

http://www.someotherplace.com/bb/projects/35hd_18s.jpg

Richard

I know there is a difference in the way the mounting brackets are(I should have said it better in my post). But I seen a lot of stuff said that it was a tuff switch. It wasn't actually that difficult which we both agree on. The wiring gets fun I know I don't regret the two days it took to get it all done.

chevyz71man
03-03-2011, 08:09 PM
Has anyone actually figured out how to change from the earlier heater controls to the 95+ heater controls? I have seen talk of it in here but never saw anyone say for sure they had pulled it off.

I have a heater box and everything that I could put in. Pretty much gutted a 99 tahoe so I should have everything I need.

What I did was go to the junkyard and grab the entire hvac harness and the blend door motors. Put the blend door motors in my truck and the entire harness. This will leave you with 4 wires to connect to your old harness. Big red and black wire, a a/c clutch wire and the illumination wire. Works like a charm. Mine came from a 95, If I did it again Id get one from a 96-98 because the hvac units are easier to find.

someotherguy
03-03-2011, 08:22 PM
I know there is a difference in the way the mounting brackets are(I should have said it better in my post). But I seen a lot of stuff said that it was a tuff switch. It wasn't actually that difficult which we both agree on. The wiring gets fun I know I don't regret the two days it took to get it all done.
I would say the tough part is the wiring, sure, if your'e going to mate the new style wiring with existing TBI wiring. I'd rather get the under hood and under dash harnesses from a '95 and use that to convert a truck, if I were going to keep the TBI engine.

My swap was to a newer interior solely because I was using a newer engine and didn't want the wiring hassle. I brought over a '96 Vortec 7.4, wiring, PCM, dash, everything - to a '94 3500HD. The most PITA part was cutting the firewall hole just right for the new style twist-lock clutch master cylinder, because there are two different sized holes in the layers of sheetmetal. :(

Richard

90chevstepside
03-03-2011, 09:49 PM
i read that a guy asked if you could just swap the cab's from the two trucks, to save all the wiring and modification. is this possible???? please someone answer this for me.. also, in 2006 people were plannin on making easy plug and play connectors... did anyone ever do this??? i would love the swap but im not good with wiring and would have absolutely NO idea where to even begin with the wiring.

1ugly88
03-11-2011, 08:31 PM
ok, read all 31 pages of this and have come up with only one question nobody touched on. what do you do about the neutral safety switch when you're running a 700r4?from what i gathered the new one mounts to the tranny and i doubt that my 700 has the bosses on it to mount it to.


EDIT..... what do you do with the wires for the 4l60e? will not connecting them leave a light on in the cluster? will the tcc still work after too?

454Cowgirl
03-12-2011, 07:51 AM
ok, read all 31 pages of this and have come up with only one question nobody touched on. what do you do about the neutral safety switch when you're running a 700r4?from what i gathered the new one mounts to the tranny and i doubt that my 700 has the bosses on it to mount it to.


EDIT..... what do you do with the wires for the 4l60e? will not connecting them leave a light on in the cluster? will the tcc still work after too?


Well I can't answer on the 4L60E or 700r4, but I didn't even bother with the NSS. And I had already upgraded my trans from a 92 4L80E to a rebuilt 98 4L80E where the NSS was already on it. It makes no difference that I have seen. I swaped out dash,steering column and the such last Oct. Actually put the 98 80e in Aug(made it a temporary linkage shift till I got around to the new dash and the cable shift). Sorry that I can't help with the 4l60 or 700 stuff, I've only had one truck that had a 4l60 and I never did anything to it.

1ugly88
03-12-2011, 10:58 AM
cool, my donor vehicle has a blown trans so i was planning on keeping my 700 which i had rebuilt like 3 years ago. i may just plug it in and just leave it in neutral all the time.

1989K1500
04-01-2011, 07:37 PM
What I did was go to the junkyard and grab the entire hvac harness and the blend door motors. Put the blend door motors in my truck and the entire harness. This will leave you with 4 wires to connect to your old harness. Big red and black wire, a a/c clutch wire and the illumination wire. Works like a charm. Mine came from a 95, If I did it again Id get one from a 96-98 because the hvac units are easier to find.

Oh ok cool. I will be able to handle that then. I have the heater box, blend door motors and all the wiring from the firewall to everything inside the dash.

ar154all
04-04-2011, 03:04 PM
Re: Door panel WIRING!!!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK IM GOING TO TRY AND SIMPLIFY THIS FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE STILL CONFUSED. STARTING WITH THE 88-94 PASSENGER SIDE YOU WILL HAVE 2 CLIP HARNESS CONNECTORS. ONE IS FOR THE DOOR LOCK AND THE OTHER FOR THE POWER WINDOW. FOLLOW THE WIRING DIAGRAM BELOW CUTTING THE WIRES ONE BY ONE AND PUTTING THEM TO THE NUMBERED PIN AS DESCRIBED BELOW. YOU WILL NEED A TOTAL OF 4 95-99 HARNESS CLIPS AS SAID ELSEWHERE IN THIS THREAD. REPIN YOUR CONNECTORS PRIOR TO DOING THIS. MOVING THE PINS AROUND IS VERY ELEMENTARY, SO IF YOU ARE ALREADY HAVING ISSUES STOP WHILE YOU CAN. ON THE PASS SIDE YOU SHOULD HAVE NO WIRES LEFT OVER FROM THE FACTORY WIRING. I CUT MINE OFF ONE BY ONE AT THE 88-94 CLIP. I ALSO PUT THE NEW CLIPS ON AT THE SAME SPOT USING BUTT CONNECTORS TO REJOIN THEM.
PASSENGER DOOR ONLY WIRING.
Pin Color Wire on Truck
A - Black/Red
B - Baby Blue
C - Tan
D - Orange
E - Grey
F - Pink
G - Window Motor on Door panel/solid blue
H - Not Used
J - Blue/White
K - Window Motor On Door panel/dark brown
L - Tan

AS SAID BEFORE THERE ARE 2 TAN WIRES. IF YOU PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH HARNESS CLIP IS LOCK AND UNLOCK YOU WILL NOT GET THESE CONFUSED AT ALL. ATTACHED IS A PIC OF THE CLIPS YOU NEED. THE ONE ON THE LEFT YOU WILL NEED 4 OF. THE ONE ON THE RIGHT IS FOR THE DRIVER DOOR ONLY AND I WILL EXPLAIN THAT IN A MINUTE. WHEN YOU HAVE THESE PINS IN YOUR HAND YOU WILL SEE THEM LABELED A B C D E F G ETC ETC. YOU WILL HAVE TO WIRE THE SMALL 2 OIN CONNECTOR IN ON THE PASS DOOR IF YOU WANT TO RETAIN THE BUTTONS BACK LITE FEATURE WHEN THE HEADLIGHT ARE ON. YOU NEED TO GROUND THE BLACK WIRE AND RUN A WIRE FROM THE OTHER TO THE DIMMER SWITCH OR PARK LIGHT SWITCH WHICH EVER YOU PREFER. IF YOU ARE GOING TO OUT SPEAKERS IN THE DOOR YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO RUN THOSE THRU THE DOOR AS WELL. THE ONLY THING LEFT IS THE WHITE/ORANGE WIRES FROM THE SMALL LIGHT AT THE END OF THE DOOR PANEL. YOU CAN TIE THESE IN JUST INSIDE THE LOWER KICK PANEL TO THE SAME COLORS FOR THE LIGHTHING CIRCUIT. The driver side is very easy to do also. You will not be able to work the pass side or check you work until you finish the Driver side. Below is the diagram for it. Once you hook the blk/red strip wire up ALL the other black wires connect to each other farther up the harness. If the diagram below calls for a black use any of he ones left over. example blk/white stripe blk/yellow stripe. When it calls for pink you only need to use one as they also tie together farther up the harness. You will have a fews wire left over like a pink a black and may a few others. Make sure you cap these off properly to avoid shorts.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Driver Door only!!



GREY CONNECTOR
A - Window Motor on door panel/solid blue going to motor
B - Blue/white
C - Black
D - tan
E - Window Motor on door panel/dark brown going to motor

Black Connector


A - Black
B - Black
C - Black/Red
D - Orange/maybe orange with black stripe
E - Baby Blue
F - Black
J - Green wire on headlight switch/you must run this wire into cab and tie into lighting circuit with pass door
L - Pink



. The orange and white left on both door panels is for the light on the door, just run the orange to the orange wire on the truck and the white to the white wire on the door switches or to the white wire on the headlight switch.

================================================== ================================================== ============
THIS IS NOT WORKING FOR ME.
THIS IS WHAT I GOT:
1994 SUBURBAN W/PWR LOCKS AND WINDOWS. I PUT A 1998 GMC SUBURBAN WIRING HARNESS IN THE DRIVERS DOOR. NONE OF THE COLORS ABOVE JIVE WITH WHAT I AM SEEING. PLEASE CLARIFY WHAT I AM MESSING UP...
WHAT I CAN SEE:
1994 BODY SIDE DRIVERS DOOR: 3 PLUGS:

6 PIN BLACK (THICKER WIRES):
A-OARNGE
B-RED
C-TAN
D-GREY
E-BLUE
F-BLACK

6 PIN GRAY (THINNER WIRES):
A-ORANGE
B-RED/WHITE
C-YELLOW
D-BABY BLUE
E-PURPLE/WHITE
F-BLACK

8 PIN BLACK (THICKER WIRES):
A-PURPLE/WHITE
B-LIME GREEN
C-PURPLE
D-PINK
E-PINK/BLACK
F-BLUE/WHITE
G-TAN
H-DARK GREEN

1998 DOOR HARNESS HAS 4 CONNECTORS

BLUE 8 PIN:
A-ORANGE
B-RED
C-GRAY
D-BLK
F-BROWN
G-OPEN
H-OPEN

8 PIN BLACK (THICKER WIRES):
A-YELLOW
B-BABY BLUE
C-TAN
D-DK GREEN
E-PURPLE
F-LIME GREEN
G-PURPLE
H-BLUE

6 PIN BLACK (THICKER WIRES):
A-ORANGE
B-WHITE
C-TAN
D-GREY
E-LT BLUE
F-BLACK

6 PIN GREY (LIGHTER WIRES):
A-GREY
B-TAN
C-ORANGE
D-WHITE
E-BROWN
F-OPEN


Can someone please tell me 1) What to cut/splice/repin, 2)tell me what each of the connectors do by pin/color and/or their names, or 3) forward me some schematics so I can figure this thing out?

Thanks

scottcleaver
04-05-2011, 08:44 PM
Does anybody actually perform the 1990 crappy cluster to a newer version for a fee? I have very little knowledge of process and even less time to try to figure it out.
Thanks
Scott

DT LEONARD 26
04-05-2011, 11:03 PM
^^^^^ same here

Bustdass95_1500
04-12-2011, 02:22 PM
I just got a 90 ecsb and the dash is out so i was thinking about doing this swap. Ive gone over just about all 32 pages over the past 2 days, and what i have come up with is that just about any dash will work from 95-98, but i either have to repin/splice the cluster and get the a/c harness from a 95 truck & actuators. Or get the whole engine and dash harness and it will be plug-n-play.. but i'm not planning on swapping columns, so should i really get a whole harness? Another thing, the truck is a 90 with a 350, 5 speed, 4wd, with no power in the doors. So if i were to do the whole harness, what kind would i look for?

Wiggins
04-20-2011, 06:35 PM
I am looking into replacing my door panels in my 91 reg cab to a 96 door panel. I was wondering if i needed to buy the metal backing from a 95-98 truck so that they would fit properly. My truck is also power locks and windows.

1badgmc
04-20-2011, 07:19 PM
I am looking into replacing my door panels in my 91 reg cab to a 96 door panel. I was wondering if i needed to buy the metal backing from a 95-98 truck so that they would fit properly. My truck is also power locks and windows.

Yes, you will.

Wiggins
04-20-2011, 07:33 PM
Yes, you will.
ok thanks i thought i read that somewhere but i wasnt sure

ar154all
04-20-2011, 08:09 PM
ok thanks i thought i read that somewhere but i wasnt sure

and get the rods that go from the handle to the door latch...
(ask me how I know...)

9497tahoe
05-01-2011, 07:57 PM
wz up ! seems like ur the guy to talk to about interiors... i just bought a 94 tahoe with a square dash but i have a 97 tahoe with a round dash can i put that dash into my 94 ?

1badgmc
05-02-2011, 04:55 AM
wz up ! seems like ur the guy to talk to about interiors... i just bought a 94 tahoe with a square dash but i have a 97 tahoe with a round dash can i put that dash into my 94 ?

You can. Do a search. It's one of the most common topics on these forums.

nc03gmc
06-02-2011, 02:46 PM
Did anyone ever come up with the Adapters to make the swap Plug n Play?

LowrPlz
06-19-2011, 05:28 PM
so my truck is a 91 and the po swapped dashes but the new dash was in terrible shape so i pulled a dash out of an 88 and the gauges are in great shape so i was wanting to just use them. my question is are there any diagrams or someone who can help me in knowing what to do to make the 88 cluster work in my 91?

89z71-92z28
06-20-2011, 04:59 AM
2

someotherguy
06-20-2011, 05:12 AM
hey anyone want a 92 1500 v8 cluster with tach i listed 1 on ebay so ya know it also includes the 7 wire drac and the pin switch check it out

Your cluster has no lens, it does not fit 1988-1998, and you're spamming an ad in a section that isn't meant for ads and this thread is meant for swap information not people selling stuff, there is a classified ads section here and you need a minimum of 50 posts to use it.

Richard

89z71-92z28
06-20-2011, 05:34 AM
1

89z71-92z28
06-20-2011, 05:51 AM
3

someotherguy
06-20-2011, 02:56 PM
APPARENTLY THIS IS NOT A FRIENDLY FORUM ANYMORE
All I see is a new guy trying to post an ad where it doesn't belong, and getting upset he was called out on it.

Yes I know about the upgrade; it can be retrofitted to an 88-91. It is a direct swap in a 92-94. It does not fit 95-up FYI so there's no reason to claim in your ad it fits 1988-1998 because it's flat out untrue.

Richard

LowrPlz
06-20-2011, 07:40 PM
What do you need to do to an 88 cluster to make it work in a 91???

someotherguy
06-21-2011, 04:59 PM
There are 3 wires you'll need to move around inside the truck's harness connector to make an 88-90 cluster work in a 91, or a 91 cluster work in a 88-90. They're detailed in a tech article somewhere around here; I can never remember it or find it when I need to but a little creative searching should turn it up.

Richard

LowrPlz
06-22-2011, 12:45 AM
thanks, do u know if its actually in the tech articles section or is it in a random place?

hzemall
10-19-2011, 01:56 PM
Does anyone have a link to just the wiring info for doing this swap?

Need the following

Cluster
HVAC
Power Windows
Power Locks

From a 92 to a 97

There is to much irrelevant info here to keep track of it all.

Thanks

Swayzee
10-23-2011, 01:53 PM
This may be a dumb question but any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I have a 1994 GMC C1500 and I'M wanting to take the old door panels out and replace them with the 1995 and up door panels. Can this be done and how? Again any feedback would be helpful.

hawkdriver44
10-25-2011, 09:00 PM
Question. I am installing a powered 60/40 seat from a 99 k1500 to a 97 k1500. the 60/40 has two orange wires and a black one. My old seat was a standard bench. Once i removed the old seat i found some wiring taped off with 2 orange 1 black and one black with white stripe. These were taped up with the airbag wiring. Could these work to run my seats? When I went to install the60/40, the drivers back inner support leg rode too high on the tranny hump. Looks like it will have to be cut and weld. Any ideas?

Totenkampf
10-28-2011, 11:45 AM
This may be a dumb question but any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I have a 1994 GMC C1500 and I'M wanting to take the old door panels out and replace them with the 1995 and up door panels. Can this be done and how? Again any feedback would be helpful.

I looked into this a bit and determined that was a real PITA to swap door panels and controls between the two interior types. I ended up finding a pair of 97 power doors and so i will pick up some OEM hinge pins and drop those in. Well I will right after I completely diagram or find a diagram on the door wiring. This may be the easiest part of the swap so if I cant pull this off then I may as well stick with the Lego dash. There are some good people here tho so I am hopeful

someotherguy
10-29-2011, 11:12 AM
Question. I am installing a powered 60/40 seat from a 99 k1500 to a 97 k1500. the 60/40 has two orange wires and a black one. My old seat was a standard bench. Once i removed the old seat i found some wiring taped off with 2 orange 1 black and one black with white stripe. These were taped up with the airbag wiring. Could these work to run my seats? When I went to install the60/40, the drivers back inner support leg rode too high on the tranny hump. Looks like it will have to be cut and weld. Any ideas?
The power seat wiring is dead simple. Blacks are grounds, oranges are 12V. Typically they're wired into the convenience center under the dash to 12V always hot connection, so you can follow those taped-up wires back to under your dash and see; most likely they are power seat wires but you'll want to be sure.

The seat is riding too high on the middle bracket because you're putting an extended cab seat in a regular cab truck, right? Center bracket will have to be cut down in the back and the tab for the bolt welded back on; problem is the power version has very little room for you to get away with cutting it down. Manual seat is no big deal. My suggestion, which will sound horrible until you actually look at it/do it, is to leave the bracket alone - instead carefully mark where your hole needs to be for the bracket's bolt to the floor, then pound a large dent in the floor with a sledgehammer. Test-fit the seat to see if it sits flat and keep pounding until it does. The dent will be covered by the carpet and seat so you'll never see it, and the seat will fit correctly without hacking the bracket and potentially weakening it. I've done this exact job more than once, trust me; it works.

Richard

Nick_R_23
12-13-2011, 03:16 PM
I just spent the last day reading through this thread, and still don't know what I need to know. I have a 1988 Extended Cab and a 1995 Extended cab that I would like to rob the dash from. The 88 truck is going to have a Cummins/5speed swap, so I don't need all the TBI wires/computer. I would like to retain the stock rear ABS and maybe cruise control. Are these controlled by the computer, or can I leave it out of the wiring? I just need the gauges, power windows, and heater to work in the interior. Also, the truck just has a regular heater box (no A/C), can I pull a regular heater box out of a 95+ truck to match up with the controls? My original one is broken and it would be a perfect time to fix it along with upgrading the rest of the interior.

bayko
01-03-2012, 06:32 AM
What about swapping just the steering column? Been done?

rebelboy08
01-19-2012, 06:21 PM
so it is possible to swap a 96 dash into a 94 truck?

bayko
01-19-2012, 09:55 PM
so it is possible to swap a 96 dash into a 94 truck?
Anything is possible.

duaner27
01-28-2012, 11:40 PM
Column question. I have a 90 z71 single cab and just picked up all wiring for a 95 interior and under hood from what I gather after reading for hrs here that's the cleanest swap. I got the dash and AC/heater box also. So that end doesn't seem to be an issue. Problem is I have a 700r4 with mechanical linkage where the 95 has a cable for I'm guessing the 4l60e. Has anyone made this work? Should I just wait and put a 4l80e in and the column at the same time I do my LS1 swap or is there a way to make the cable work the 700r4 so I don't have to pull the dash again down the road? Please help I'm at the column part of this swap and at a cross roads.

cordatta
01-31-2012, 06:35 AM
You can remove the mechanical linkage and put the cable end on the shaft. The only drawback is that you won't have a prndl display bc in 95+ the park neutral safety switch mounts at the transmission.

duaner27
01-31-2012, 08:32 AM
Hmmm I was thinking the prnd display came from the mechonism on the column?

duaner27
01-31-2012, 09:18 AM
I guess I could live without the prnd display, wonder if I could get the indicator off one off the trannys and figure a way to adapt it? If nothing else when I go with the 4l80e it can be hooked up. I was just thinking if I built the 700r id stick with it.

cordatta
01-31-2012, 12:51 PM
now the prdnl indicator led gets its signal from the safety switch. I think it only has like four or five wires going to it grey, black, yellow, maybe a purple. Either way if you stick with the 700r4 trans the easiest thing to do would be to go the junkyard and get the shift shaft from a 4l60e trans out of a 95+ truck. The shaft should fit without problems in your 700r4 since your trans is basically a non-computer controlled unit.

Once the shaft is installed you will have room for both the column cable and the saftey switch to be installed. The only kicker then is that you will have to fab up a mount for the safety switch. When i did my swap a few years ago, i installed the shaft and everything works fine. I have tested the operation of the prndl indicator and it works but I have yet to hook it up.

duaner27
01-31-2012, 07:39 PM
Wow thanks didn't even think of them being so similar and all. Some times things are to simple. That will make for a clean set up. Thanks a bunch man.

vr6wannabe
02-03-2012, 10:23 AM
awesome thread! good information!

mikes06cbr
02-12-2012, 07:01 PM
88-94to95-98.txt‎(1.2 KB, 1605 views)

i cant get this to open... can anyone help???

88Silverado25
02-13-2012, 07:41 PM
When i did mine I swapped the shift shaft from a 4l60e and the gear select switch from the transmission onto my 700r4. Here is the diagram for what i did I hope that it helps some one. I have a ton of other diagrams so if you need something ask and I will post here.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/PatienceGuild/2500/PRNDL-1.jpg

The wires on the larger plug are not important for getting the PRNDL to work if i remember correctly.

gunbladexiii
02-21-2012, 01:47 PM
ok guys. ive got a 94 z71 with the nv4500. i snagged a dash, steering column and all the harness ends from a local yard for $120. ive already swapped the door panels successfully, im working on repining the connector for the new cluster with the wires from my old cluster. ive read the 1st post and cant make heads or tails. im missing a few and ive got a few extra wires in here. any help is greatly appreciated.

gunbladexiii
02-22-2012, 03:39 PM
this is what Ive compiled for the clusters through this thread and a lil help from a friend at the dealer. hope it can help
88-94 //Function// 95-98

// SIR Light // 1-brn
// Wait Light // 2-dk blu
L-lt blu // Left Turn // 3-lt blu
G,N,Q // Ground // 4,31,34-blk
M-lt grn// High Beam // 5-lt grn
T -wht// Tach // 6-wht
F,O,U // Fuse // 7,22-pnk
// Led Dim Sig // 8-ppl/wht

R-drk grn // Water Temp // 13-dk grn
S-lt blu/blk // Speed // 14-dk grn
P -tan // Oil // 15-tan
W-ppl // Gas // 16-ppl
H-lt grn/blk // DRL Relay // 17-lt grn/blk
// Water in fuel// 18-yel/blk
A-brn // Alternater // 19-brn
K-tan/blk // upshift indicator lamp// 20-tan/blk
// Fore // 21-wht/blk
C-brn/wht // Check Engine // 23-brn/wht
J // Low Coolant // 25-gry
B-wht // Anti Lock // 27-lt grn
E-tan/wht // Park Brake // 28-tan/wht
V-gry // Illumination // 29-gry
X-yel // Seat belt // 30-yel
Z-dk blu // Right Turn // 32 -dk blu

gunbladexiii
02-27-2012, 06:43 PM
ok gauges are fully functioning minus speedo but it didnt work anyways.. found out that the numbers from the 95-up and the letters from my 94 are on the back of the connector. scanned over the thread and didnt see that. i thought it was only on the cluster ive still got the ac switch over to do and the steering column.. still a long way but im workin on it.. ill post pics once im done, and get enough posts to do so..

zbeast
03-15-2012, 10:59 PM
Got my interior out of a 98 and my column now to do the swap, I'm curious if anyone has tried to use the steering column out of a 2000 n up Tahoe ( the ones with radio control function) I know Id have to wire the speaker wires in n all but will the fit like the 98s? Also has anyone tried it with a 99 to 2002 dash?


Shard

crator1322
06-10-2012, 11:35 AM
Can anyone send me this exel spread sheet by chance?

BigBody, No you can't keep the old brake pedal the new one has an exaggerated curve in it to compensate for the column mounting point.

Here is a conversation that I had with DeanDalton. I provided him with an excel sheet that I created that had pin outs for the ignition, cruise, wiper, etc. If I could post attachments I would do so here, if someone can post attachments I will email it to them. However, use at your own risk I will not be responsible if anything happens to your ride. I created this sheet as a guide for my swap into my 93 and everything but the hazard lights worked.

Heres the conversation about the plugs:

Dean I have provided my comments below for you in bold, I hope it shows up on your screen like that though. I can tell you that for me swapping the fuse box was not that big of a deal. I had to add one circuit off the ignition (pnk wire) in the fuse box b/c my 93 model had like 4 things hot with the key on whereas the new one only had like 3. Not a big deal if you go to the junkyard and look at a 95+ fuse box. There is a single white wire that is probably 8-10 guage next to a single orange 12-14 gauge wire. Pull the blue clip out of the fuse box and take a very small flat blade screwdrive to the black tab in the fuse box and the wires will pull right out. Simple mod to do and you can just add it into the RR A/C or other black spot in your fuse box. Then just solder the heavy gauge pink wire (ign feed) to your white wire and viola new circuit in the fuse panel. Let me see if I can sort this out for you.

Directly on top of my column was a White Connector. This plugged into Two Connectors; one Black and one Blue.
Blue connector had; Pink, Purple, Red and Brown. These all
seem to confirm with your information.

The pink is ign feed, purple is the starter, RED is battery feed, Brown is Accessory feed.

Black connector had: Orange and Red. These confirm with you
but I had and extra Green wire.

Orange is hot all the time, RED is the same battery feed found on the blue connector. The green wire is the temp sensor, the 96 column does not have this. I did not hook mine up and it still works just fine.

On the left side of my column I had one Black Connector with three tabs.
Yellow, Brown and two Greens going into one tab. Could this be "Beam Selector"?

Yes this is the beam selector switch. Solder the two green wires to the one green coming off the column. You will find a purple DRL wire from the new column that needs to be soldered to the brown wire. The yellow wire goes directly to the headlight switch.

Flopping around loose on my column was a White Connector. This plugged into a Black Connector, marked Pack-Con 1 PED. Grey/E, White/D and Purple/C. I believe this is the "Wiper System"?

Yes this is the wiper. You will not use the White wire as long as you use the new style fuse box. The purple and gray wires go to the HI/LO wiper wires which I believe are also the same colors.

On the right side of my column was a long thin White Connector. This plugged into a Black Connector marked Pack-Con 39 PED. Light Brown/E, Light Green/F, Black/G, 2 Light Blues/H, Dark Blue/J, Brown/K, Purple/L, Yellow/M, Green/N, White/P. No I or O were marked on the connector!

You will find that GM doesn't use I or O on their connectors. This connector will feed your tail lights, turn signals, horn, door switch buzzer, etc. In the excel sheet that I gave you that had pin outs for the 93 this works just fine. The only wire that I haven't hooked up yet is the white wire which comes from my 93 brake switch. I haven't figured out that yet but have some ideas which I will explain in a bit.

There was single heavy Black Wire on my column. This plugged into a Black Connector with FOUR?WIRES? Blue, Green, Gray and Pink with a thin Blue Stripe.

I believe this will be for your cruise system. On my 93 it had a single terminal from the column that plugged into this connector. I have yet to mess with the cruise but it should be fairly simple if you have access to diagrams for your year models.

At the end of my column was a large white connector which I believe detected gear selection. It had Two Black Connectors. Green and Blue.
Orange and Black with a thin White Stripe.

My 93 only had the Blue and green wires. This is the park or neutral safety switch. Green feeds the backup light circuit and blue feeds to the Turn B/U fuse which is tied to the flasher relay at the firewall convience center. The 95+ use a trans mounted park/ss so as of now my truck does not have Backup lights. That is another issue I plan to address but haven't put alot of time into it. I have been told that you can swap the gear selector shaft in the transmission from a 95+ 4l60e but have not looked in that.

Attached to the Brake Pedal was a Black Connector. This plugged into Two Connectors, both marked PED 2. Brown/A and Gray/B.

Brown/A, Purple/B, Orange/C and White/D.

Does this match your column?

Brown and Gray connector feeds to the cruise system.

The other connector on mine was pink, 2 purple/blk wires, orange and white. Not sure of the order as I am at work right now. But this is the brake switch that I still need to figure out.

As for the brake switch issue. Here are my thoughts I just haven't tried to see how it is going to work but will towards the end of this week. You will find out in the junkyard that 94 models use the 95+ brake switch and booster. The Brake switch on the 94+ models use a brake booster rod that is just a tad bigger than the shaft on the brake pedal. When you press the brake this "gap" triggers the brake switch activating the circuit. (The 93 model uses a pedal mounted switch that is activated based on the arc that pedal makes when depressed.) When I was in the yard I found a brake switch from a 94 that has pink, purple, orange and white wires on it just like my 93. It is however missing what I believe to be the brown and gray wires feeding the cruise system. I think that if I were to wire the switch color for color to the 93 that I would have brake lights.

Now to the issue of getting them to activate when the pedal is pressed. Looking at the switch and my existing 93 brake booster the rod fits the 95+ brake pedal tight (ie no movement to activate the switch). What I plan on doing is grinding down some of the face of the brake pedal shaft, not much but like 1/8" where the rod fits on the shaft. This will all the rod to slide into the shaft and should allow enough movement to activate the switch.

Not sure if this makes sense but if you have the 95+ brake pedal and switch put it on the shaft and pull or push it on the pedal and you will see what I am talking about.

Hope this helps you out man and best of luck with your swap. I knew that it was going to be alot of work and it is. Whoever said they did this in 30 minutes or a few hours is either full of **** or the underside of their dash looks like a Griswald set of Christmas lights. I am a stickler for electrical wires and how they look so I have been taking my time and trying to get it nice and tidy up under my dash. And believe me I still have alot of work to do.

creper
07-01-2012, 02:57 AM
Is it just me or is the attachment file from the first post not working? All I get is a clear .gif image lol

1chevy209
07-16-2012, 12:46 AM
the link is not working for me either. :(

Okcmatt
08-01-2012, 02:19 AM
Im sorry to ask this but what all is needed to do this I would like to know what I'm getting myself into any info will be greatly appreciated

VenomousGT
08-05-2012, 10:32 AM
I'm dead in the middle of this swap myself and I'm not having the best luck so far.. I've done all the physical changes over so far, I've done the inner and outer door panels, the compass mirror, and the full physical dash swap.. As for the electrical I'm not having the best luck. I've wired the light switch and the mirror but my door wiring just isn't matching up. For the ones that have done this swap where did you grab your door wiring? Did you grab it at the harness in the door boot or at the switches themselves? I'm afraid to even start the gauges until I can get these doors working properly.

Thanks guys


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

VenomousGT
08-05-2012, 07:09 PM
ok gurus, i HAVE a BIG issue.. im 99% done with my gauge wiring, pretty sure everthing is working as expected, however I have no idea what the speed sensor wwire is in my truck.. I have a 91 which ironically has now wire letters to designate wires.. also my colors have been just a tad weird... on my speed wire its supposed to be a blue/blk, and i have no idea what pin it would be because mine is wrong from the factory, but I do not have a blue/blk wire.. does anyone know how i can test my remaining 5-6 wires that were unused in the wiring to test for a speed signal? or does anyone had an alternate color?

droptail
08-05-2012, 07:21 PM
can someone please direct me to info on what type of pins to buy for the '90 to '91 I/P swap? I have to add a tach wire into the connector.
Also, how to access the back of the connector while you're being so helpful.

Thanks

VenomousGT
08-06-2012, 04:13 PM
can someone please direct me to info on what type of pins to buy for the '90 to '91 I/P swap? I have to add a tach wire into the connector.
Also, how to access the back of the connector while you're being so helpful.

Thanks

the gray cover has an open side and a closed side, the open side has 2 clips that fold over the internal plug. If you pull those plugs apart it will slide off the internal black plug. There are 2 white things that slide in a lock the pins into place they just lift out easily. then you can reinsert your new pin.

as for the actual pin type, i cant help there... sorry

droptail
08-06-2012, 10:02 PM
Thanks for that info, but what I am asking is how to release the connector from its secured position on the dash backing, to pull it out a little so I can work on the wiring?

Thanks

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/garage.php?do=user_garage_view&id=5907

VenomousGT
08-09-2012, 08:47 AM
Thanks for that info, but what I am asking is how to release the connector from its secured position on the dash backing, to pull it out a little so I can work on the wiring?

Thanks

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/garage.php?do=user_garage_view&id=5907

If i remember correctly, it slides to the left and unlocks... I wish I hadn't tossed my 91 dash I'd walk out and check.. I'm pretty sure once you slide it over to the left it'll unlock so you can pop it through


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

droptail
08-15-2012, 01:01 AM
ok gurus, i HAVE a BIG issue.. im 99% done with my gauge wiring, pretty sure everthing is working as expected, however I have no idea what the speed sensor wwire is in my truck.. I have a 91 which ironically has now wire letters to designate wires.. also my colors have been just a tad weird... on my speed wire its supposed to be a blue/blk, and i have no idea what pin it would be because mine is wrong from the factory, but I do not have a blue/blk wire.. does anyone know how i can test my remaining 5-6 wires that were unused in the wiring to test for a speed signal? or does anyone had an alternate color?
The vss or speed signal is most convenient at the large black ALDL diagnostic connector located at the lower edge of the dash just above your left knee (need to get under dash to see it on lower edge). My '90 is pin #H, White with Black stripe. A DMM will show a frequency only when vehicle is moving, and increasing with speed.

WadeH
08-15-2012, 10:41 PM
I have a 94 ext cab 2wd swapped in a 96 vortec and 4l60e. Dash has been converted and everything works. Last piece to figure out is the hvac side for the actuators and blower motor. Once I get that the entire drive train and dash is going into a 79 shortbed. I wish I would have found this site earlier. Is there a diagram on here for the heater controls. Thanks

droptopgokart
08-19-2012, 11:07 AM
when swapping out the door panels do you have to swap out the metal door plates behind the panels too?

droptopgokart
09-02-2012, 06:46 AM
....hellllooo? I needzzzz some infoz please -_-

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

daddyhatt08
09-03-2012, 08:56 PM
when swapping out the door panels do you have to swap out the metal door plates behind the panels too?

yes you have to swap the backing plates as well and also dont forget to swap the lock and hand rods too because they are longer

daddyhatt08
09-03-2012, 09:04 PM
I just got done swaping the complete interior out of a 95 into my 94 and looks like a diffrent truck i kep the origanal heater/ac controls and intergraded them into the dash whers other ones were so i didnt have to worry about the wiring. all i have left is to do the steering columb but i am trying to find out if i have to disconnnect the shaft at the steering box to swap it.

JurgenS
09-05-2012, 03:53 AM
I have an 89 and just bought a 96 interior, dash, panels, heater/ac, mirrors, power windows and all the wiring. Can I just plug the main wire in where everything goes through the firewall?

if not, what would be the best way to proceed?

jason94gm
09-05-2012, 08:21 PM
good info, thanks

Blackgmc99
09-13-2012, 11:37 AM
Looking for a bit of info not sure where to get it at. I have a 97 gmc sle I am looking to add exterior lighting down under cab so when the door is open the light come on and when the door is closed they come off. I would like to run them off the wiring (door plungers) that are already inplace. I am a bit confused. I have tried multiple options but nothing seem to make them work. Does anybody have any ideas what wire or where I could plug into a power source to make this work? Thank you.

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 07:30 PM
I'm new to this blog but i have started the 1993-1995 swap and have some photos. If someone please gives me a heads up I'll list the photos

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 07:55 PM
I kind of went a different route I change over the hole wiring. I was really not liking spicing wires. maybe for a radio but a truck i drive and need to depend on every day. A swap was a better way in my opinion it's taking a lot longer but much better. i used two different wiring one for the engine and one for the interior. only because I have a 1993 2 door Chevy Tahoe 4x4 and wanted the rear defrost and the wipers and the engine because I couldn't find one with the O2 sensor on the drivers side. all in all everything is still tugging along the trucks running with 4x4 all lights and everything works. trying to up load Pic now. O and i replaced the hole heater/AC box over so all the wires plugged in just find

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 07:56 PM
I have pic

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 07:57 PM
three more to go

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 07:57 PM
two more to go

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 07:57 PM
last one

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 07:57 PM
<div style="width:480px;text-align:right;"><embed width="480" height="360" src="http://pic2.pbsrc.com/flash/rss_slideshow.swf" flashvars="rssFeed=http%3A%2F%2Ffeed1077.photobucket.com%2Fal bums%2Fw461%2FCchris4220%2Ffeed.rss" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" /><a href="javascript:void(0);" target="_blank"><img src="http://pic.photobucket.com/share/icons/embed/btn_geturs.gif" style="border:none;" /></a><a href="http://s1077.beta.photobucket.com/user/Cchris4220/library/" target="_blank"><img src="http://pic.photobucket.com/share/icons/embed/btn_viewall.gif" style="border:none;" alt="Cchris4220's album on Photobucket" /></a></div>

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 07:58 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1171_zps558e3088.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 07:59 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1174_zpsf5905558.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:00 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1176_zpsfc2d3309.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:00 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1177_zpsb060da29.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:01 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1178_zps174ae59a.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:01 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1179_zps4ae91a1c.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:02 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1181_zps9db1588b.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:02 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1184_zpsbcde01d3.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:03 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1195_zps2cafbe12.jpg

I clean it up

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:04 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1200_zps8149d4ae.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:05 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1203_zps46140b7a.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:05 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1204_zps774df6a4.jpg

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:07 PM
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w461/Cchris4220/IMG_1205_zps0b5ac14f.jpg

I'll have more pic's of the engine tomorrow my Phone died

Cchris4220
09-19-2012, 08:09 PM
if you have any question please ask away. I have about 85 dollars in this for the junk yard and about 15 hours Five a day I'll have it done in the next two to three days

JurgenS
09-19-2012, 11:13 PM
:5stars:

I'm going for the same approach with replacing all the wires in my 88 truck. Just sourcing the engine bay wiring loom but it's hard to find here.

Cchris4220
09-20-2012, 07:57 AM
If your is non 4x4 computer controlled (which it is) I have a extra one. I pulled from a 95 non 4x4 with the computer it's got the power wiper wires cut other then that i pulled everything clean (the wiper wires where all ready cut) you can have it (for a price of chorus) but ill go easy on you. I really take my time when i pull them so if you want you can email me and we can talk numbers. Cchris420@gmail.com

JurgenS
09-24-2012, 05:26 AM
Cchris4220 thanks a lot for the offer but I think it would be better to find one here, also I don't need it now, in a few months is soon enough so I still have time enough. It might take a little longer but if you have to ship it, it would probably cost more than a new one.

By the way, would the wiring from a diesel be the same as for a petrol engine?

11sectreefitty
10-08-2012, 12:32 AM
The link in the original post doesnt work, any suggestions?

Mustang351cca
11-03-2012, 02:44 PM
So, I think I read somewhere that I can't use the gauge cluster from a diesel truck... Is there any particular reason why we can't??
The reason I'm asking this is that I'm doing a motor swap for a friend as he blew the motor in his Tow Truck, so I now have access to a complete 98 K3500 crew cab long box 4x4 to swap into my 91 K2500 ECLB... I'm really stoked to do this so any info would help greatly..

red4dooronair
11-12-2012, 09:02 PM
Sorry to bring an old thread back to life but i currently have a 95 single cab with new motor n trans and a 93 x cab i jus picked up for 500. I want to run the motor n trans out of the 95 in the 93. Due to 95 being the odd ball year on the transmissions i plan swapping interior too just to do the update. Biggest obsicle right now is adapting the harness. If anyone has any suggestions or input please dont hold back.

WadeH
12-17-2012, 07:21 PM
just did my heater conversion this weekend. disconnected the 94 wiring harness where it enters firewall and plugged in the 96 harness , blower resistor, and relay. total cost from our local pick apart. 24.00 including three new actuators. I couldn't believe how easy it was. I searched and read this thread for a long time looking for info this part.

rx7 fc guy
01-10-2013, 09:41 PM
I am currently in the process of converting my dash and most of the rest of my interior on my 88 Silverado standard cab long bed. My interior looked tired, boxy, and red. I probably wouldn't have minded it so much if it wasn't red.
Last month I took in a 98 Tahoe on a trade for some old RX7 parts, It had a nice interior but it could not be registered. So about a week ago I did the door panels, inner door frame and seats. I transferred everything over including the wiring. It was really easy honestly. I took the center harness out of the Tahoe and wired it to the convenience block of the Silverado. It only needed a constant 12v, a switched 12v and a ground. and everything worked like it was original to my Silverado.

rx7 fc guy
01-10-2013, 10:07 PM
I also transferred the hvac control wiring. The main thing was to trace all the wires and figure out what they were, then transfer the wires and transfer the two door motors. I did not want to cut the loom but I had too, in order to separate the hvac wiring from the main harness. The main wires to worry about were the brown 12v switched, and the grey and black ground wire. There was a 12v constant that needed to be added to my Silverado for the main motor itself to make it all work.

rx7 fc guy
01-10-2013, 10:13 PM
I found this so much easier to do than trying to rewire the windows, door locks and hvac the way most other on here were doing it.

slev
01-13-2013, 04:37 AM
Nice work on this list, thanks :)

Mustang351cca
01-14-2013, 12:33 PM
just did my heater conversion this weekend. disconnected the 94 wiring harness where it enters firewall and plugged in the 96 harness , blower resistor, and relay. total cost from our local pick apart. 24.00 including three new actuators. I couldn't believe how easy it was. I searched and read this thread for a long time looking for info this part.

Well, I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think that it'll be as easy as plug N play for me going from 91 harness to a 97 harness... lol
I hope so though...

masterhacker
01-18-2013, 02:26 AM
This thread isnt really much help in the conversion proscess, its just a bunch of random info on a couple different ways of doing the swap not a step by step, or guide... After I find a decent dash ill do a proper write up on this, with dash removal, then going into splicing in new dash (I aint installing no new damn fuse box/harness), swapping door skins over, making power windows work (thats easy since I already made my own harness/relay setup, F*** the factory wiring)

rx7 fc guy
01-19-2013, 03:43 AM
I plan to do a full write up of how to connect everything up, with no splicing of wires. Well doing everything but the gauges. I altered my 88 gauges to fit the new dash. I am still putting photos and diagrams I have drawn up together. I will start to have them posted soon.

rx7 fc guy
01-20-2013, 06:42 PM
Here is a diagram for making a harness to adapt from 88-94 headlight switch plug to 95-98 headlight switch plug. I did this in mine so I would not have not alter any wiring and it makes everything plug n play.
I did not use the grey or white wires.

Black to black
red to red
orange to orange
yellow to yellow
green to green
purple-ish grey to purple-ish grey
purple-ish grey to purple-ish grey

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll206/rx7guy_2008/chevy1500%20retrofit/headlightharness_zps78fcbc39.jpg

rx7 fc guy
01-20-2013, 11:25 PM
Almost forgot to post the pictures of my conversion. I wish I could have transferred over the carpet to but it was just waisted.
My next attempt will be to transfer over the steering column.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll206/rx7guy_2008/0116131516a_zps3abedb7b.jpg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll206/rx7guy_2008/chevy1500%20retrofit/0110131959_zps89268458.jpg

94chevysil
01-27-2013, 01:17 PM
does anybody know/have the column wiring diagram to adapt a 95 column to 94 wiring?

rx7 fc guy
01-30-2013, 11:56 PM
Im going to do the column switch on mine in a few weeks. I can post something about it then. I think its going to be harder to switch the column mount over. Its going to be pretty easy to wire up. Most of it is the same. Just grab a good multimeter and start chasing down wires.

jfelz3
02-02-2013, 11:03 AM
excellent post thanks

sunsetprez
02-11-2013, 03:12 PM
Whats happening everyone. I have a 92 ecsb stock floor body dropped on 22s. I went to the cop auction on thursday and picked up a fully loaded 98 ex cab for 200 bucks but some idiot took the valve covers and the top of the intake off. Im going to swap the complete interior and doors into my 92 including the 3rd door. I just have some small concerns.

Passlock, is this going to be an issue? I have the key.
The engine, since mine is tbi should I just splice the engine harness?

94chevysil
02-18-2013, 07:56 PM
got the whole swap done, only thing i cant figure out is the hvac, anybody have it?

sunsetprez
02-26-2013, 11:12 PM
I have the diagram for the 92 and 98. Pulling the dash from the 98 is the hardest dash I have ever pulled. I think mostly because I have been getting off work after dark and about 2 million black widows call the truck home.

Joey82
03-06-2013, 08:57 PM
How u get the speedo to work

Joey82
03-06-2013, 08:58 PM
I got everthing but the speedo working, how you get it to work

Joey82
03-06-2013, 09:00 PM
Any help

sunsetprez
03-07-2013, 09:33 PM
Lol I will be able to help when I actually start mine. I stripped the 98 but thats it so far.

Joey82
03-07-2013, 10:10 PM
I need help wireing in the drac on what wire is what and where it go's

ominus
04-02-2013, 07:33 PM
Iam with you joey...same problem

SoSikCustomZ
04-27-2013, 08:04 AM
Hey guys I'm stuck....I have a 94 2 door ykgt..I'm doin a door skin swap..94>99-00(4door)I have everything mounted just need the wiring.all these treads are confusing...non of the colors or pins coincide...Can anyone supply a diagram or step by step color coded way to help with this...

usmc13
05-01-2013, 06:29 PM
when i did my swap i noticed my colors were different from what others had..

SoSikCustomZ
05-02-2013, 06:55 AM
I figured it out finally and everything works now just had to switch around the wires on the drivers door window switch control for the passenger side cause the switch worked in reverse...

Joey82
05-15-2013, 09:48 PM
Can you post pics of passenger door wiring

Cableman
06-25-2013, 03:25 PM
Soon I will be offering ' Quick Wiring Harness Adapters '.

What this will be are two pigtails one 88-94 and one 95-98 with 3-4 inches of wire inbetween. The harness will have the appropriate wires going to the appropriate pigtail number/letter. They will be available for Door panel swaps WITH power , Cluster swaps, and A/C heater controls which will include proper relays in place.

This will allow for a quick safe way to adapt one style to the other!

Hey Mstefak are you offering harness adapters yet?

93 burb
06-26-2013, 04:33 AM
Very useful thread :)

94Z71er
07-07-2013, 11:58 AM
I need a new dash but the junkyard only has 95 and newer. And mine is a 94 EXT Cab Z71. Would all the screws and holes match for a direct replacement or do i need to do some modification?

slice73
07-08-2013, 08:12 AM
I need the wiring diagram of the 1988 Chevy cluster connector. From what I read, none of the colors match in 1988. My plug starts with A1 goes to A17 and then B1 through B17. I need the wiring diagram that shows the function of every one of those. I see messages where people say they will email etc. I don't understand why it isn't posted. Anyway, please email me either here or at slice73 at gmail.com

thanks
Paul

slice73
07-08-2013, 12:23 PM
I need the wiring diagram of the 1988 Chevy cluster connector. From what I read, none of the colors match in 1988. My plug starts with A1 goes to A17 and then B1 through B17. I need the wiring diagram that shows the function of every one of those. I see messages where people say they will email etc. I don't understand why it isn't posted. Anyway, please email me either here or at slice73 at gmail.com

thanks
Paul

I got the pinouts from another thread. What I am wondering is how do you reconcile the turn signal wiring from a 1988 to a 1995.

Right turn is off 32 and left turn is off 3 on the 1995 connector.

1988 shows one wire (A11 Light Blue) for directional (both left and right)

I got everything else to work on the gauge cluster, I just wondering if I need this last part.

Thanks

Paul

SoCal13
09-19-2013, 10:28 AM
I kept the 94 steering column and with the 97 dash it left a space around the column I do not like much. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/20/ygyza3e3.jpg
Kept 94 a/c aswell and found a perfect spot for it. Just need to instal the radio and fill that middle pocket with something.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/20/guduty9e.jpg

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

NateT1986
09-22-2013, 09:37 AM
Have you made any of these quick harnesses yet?

da88
10-25-2013, 06:55 PM
i did a full dash swap on my 88 to the 95 dash, but have no clue how to post pics on here i cant post a link to photo bucket either

jpia
10-30-2013, 05:43 PM
I am in the process of swapping the body off of a 90 short bed single cab with a 98 body the interior is all from 98 the engine is from a 94 5.7 so the firewall plug is different what is the easiest way to deal with this? I have considered mounting both plugs under the dash and using jumpers from the 98 to the 94 is this an option?

jpia
11-02-2013, 07:19 PM
easiest way I can explain door lock and power window switches to make the reverse polarity switch make sense, this shows how the polarity is reversed , when you press up or unlock 1-2 and 3-4 close down or lock 2-3 and 4-5 close
1. constant hot
2. to door lock or window motor .4 to door lock or window motor
3. negative .5 constant hot

1+
2 . 4
3- 5+

beltran24
12-06-2013, 11:29 AM
Anybody know the wiring to swap the a/c heater contols

Blue 04 Z71
03-13-2014, 08:19 PM
How hard is it to get the speedo to work on an 89 to 96 dash swap? I have a full spare interior in a donor tahoe I can pull from.

bigink00
03-23-2014, 07:40 PM
check your power and ground going to the drac, i had the same problems and found the voltage was much lower than source, i just ran new power and ground wires directly to the drac and works perfectly now.

Hemesath89
04-24-2014, 07:08 PM
Sorry im sure this post is somewhere deep in this 38 page post. But ive got a Moonie gauge setup and got needled (have pin/plug from new gauge, and DRAC) now how do you hook up the drac and is there a simple wiring diagram for the gauge cluster swap? Thanks