View Full Version : 95 Chevy, need more torque for towing
mdy69
06-14-2006, 01:03 PM
Hi, I have a bone stock 95 chevy 4 wheel drive that I use for towing a car trailer. this thing is a slug when towing, actually it is a slug in general. It is a 350 engine with auto trans. What simple things can I check, and add ons for more towing torque.
thank you.
mike
SolMan98
06-14-2006, 01:05 PM
Any idea what gears you have? That would probably help the greatest in towing (stepping up to lower gears that is).
nhill2090
06-14-2006, 03:07 PM
upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust
DirtyGmc
06-14-2006, 03:51 PM
Id start with intake and exhaust since theyre easy installs and help out pretty well.
Then I'd regear to a lower ratio.
Could also look into a new camshaft. I know Crane has out a line for offroading with more low end power. They only cost like $160+install.
Whifflebat
06-14-2006, 03:59 PM
Is it running correctly? When I had an exhaust leak mine ran like poo, couldn't go up any kind of hill without dropping out of OD...fixed it and now it runs like a champ. I'd make sure its running right before going for mods.
As for mods, my first would be long tube headers.
Diamond Jim
06-14-2006, 04:24 PM
Get some stock vortec heads, about $400.00 instant 40hp gain. You will have to get a vortec compatable intake manifold for $200.00 (maybe less), match the intake runners to the head for a few more garanteed hp. Add a adjustable fuel pump regulator (less than $100.00) adjusted for an honest 12-13 pounds pressure, and a decent set of headers for less than $200.00. ov
After gaskets, etc. you have spent under $1000, and you are gaining 75-80 real horsepower, in the mid range where you need it for towing, maybe a little more. After these mods the horsepower you can get per dollar spent will go up. Later on you can add a cam, get a custom tuneed chip etc.
You might want to consider a transmission cooler with its own electric fan, and a shift kit or at least a corvett servo.
airdeano
06-14-2006, 09:40 PM
What simple things can I check, and add ons for more towing torque.
mike,
welcome to the forum.
a couple of things to check are:
ignition (plugs, cap, coil, wires) condition and wear
fuel system (pressure, delivery, and pattern)
general (compression, exhaust, induction)
this wont break the bank, but can give you a better baseline
on what you have.
common upgrades are:
throttle body mods
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212064&highlight=toolbox
air intake, simple exhaust, throttle body spacer, performance
chip.
airdeano
mdy69
06-15-2006, 04:31 AM
Wow, thanks for the great advise, lots of good reading. I just rescently purchased the truck and have not touched anything yet, will tune it up first, and I know there is a light exhaust leak. Will do all this first before any mods.
mike
jeep45238
06-15-2006, 05:18 AM
Do a standard tune up, replace all filters, throw on the biggest auxillary transcooler you can fit (I've got 2, stock radiator, to a 8x15x.75 behind the radiator, to a 8x10 behind the grill through an additional trans filter back to the trans), make sure there's no leaks at the doughnuts or manifolds, and then worry about mods.
I put in a K&N drop in filter, took that muffler thing at the fender and took out the inner tube, took out the pre-heater vavle, and welded the hole in the intake shut where the velve was, and put in an adjustable timing chain kit and camshaft. I'm slowly finishing all the small **** on the turck to get it running since I tore it apart last friday (not my primary vehicle, just spend a bit here and there).
mdy69
06-15-2006, 12:46 PM
Isnt a gear swap more difficult in these years becuase there is no rear in the front. Ive swapped gears on older models with 2 rears, dont know much about these.
mike
airdeano
06-15-2006, 01:20 PM
gear swap is pretty straight-forward like all ring and
pinion vehicles. the rear being a corporate GM 8.5" and
front (i dunna know).
airdeano
diadora516
06-15-2006, 05:00 PM
Get some stock vortec heads, about $400.00 instant 40hp gain. You will have to get a vortec compatable intake manifold for $200.00 (maybe less), match the intake runners to the head for a few more garanteed hp. Add a adjustable fuel pump regulator (less than $100.00) adjusted for an honest 12-13 pounds pressure, and a decent set of headers for less than $200.00. ov
After gaskets, etc. you have spent under $1000, and you are gaining 75-80 real horsepower, in the mid range where you need it for towing, maybe a little more. After these mods the horsepower you can get per dollar spent will go up. Later on you can add a cam, get a custom tuneed chip etc.
You might want to consider a transmission cooler with its own electric fan, and a shift kit or at least a corvett servo.
that intake manifold is more like $300+. you will have to ditch the EGR or get it plumbed into the exhaust. i doubt he would see 75 horsepower with all of that especially if he uses the stock cam/exhaust. the vortec motors were rated at 255 horsepower and thats with the vortec heads, better cam/exhaust,fuel injection.
Diamond Jim
06-15-2006, 06:11 PM
that intake manifold is more like $300+. you will have to ditch the EGR or get it plumbed into the exhaust. i doubt he would see 75 horsepower with all of that especially if he uses the stock cam/exhaust. the vortec motors were rated at 255 horsepower and thats with the vortec heads, better cam/exhaust,fuel injection.
I am glad you know so much more than everybody else. You need to check e-bay and some of the on-line catalogs and find out what the prices really are. E-bay "Buy-it-now" prices start at about $110 and go up to $221 (including shipping) for a new Edelbrock Air Gap Vortec Intake Manifold. Vortec 5.7 engines have one of the wimpest low lift cams GM ever put in a engine that size, and the vortec heads don't even have large valves either, its because the flow so well that they produce an instant 40 additional hp. As for as the fuel injection, that is the weak point on these engines. The 19 pound injectors are what stops these engines from making any real power.
charsweb33
06-15-2006, 08:53 PM
The above replies are mostly good, but I had an experience with my old 1971 350 that might be pertinent to your 350, Mine ran like a champ with plenty of power until It blew an upper radiator hose an got the engine very hot. Afterwards, the 350 was a real dog on power and gradually got worse with age. I finally put a new crate engine in it. In the interim, I did most of the things suggested with no luck. Although the cam made a big improvement for a while. Afterwards, I should have just put in a new short block and kept my old heads.
diadora516
06-17-2006, 01:59 PM
I am glad you know so much more than everybody else. You need to check e-bay and some of the on-line catalogs and find out what the prices really are. E-bay "Buy-it-now" prices start at about $110 and go up to $221 (including shipping) for a new Edelbrock Air Gap Vortec Intake Manifold. Vortec 5.7 engines have one of the wimpest low lift cams GM ever put in a engine that size, and the vortec heads don't even have large valves either, its because the flow so well that they produce an instant 40 additional hp. As for as the fuel injection, that is the weak point on these engines. The 19 pound injectors are what stops these engines from making any real power.
im not saying the vortec cam is awesome, just better than the one in the tbi motors. the L31 engine is better than the L05. you can't put some vortec heads on and expect to make MORE power than the vortec motor. and will those intake manifolds work with TBI?
Fast305
06-18-2006, 12:42 AM
I also have to agree, you will not see 75 FWHP from that. 25 MAYBE! The TBI cam doesn't take advantage of the TBI heads flow, much less Vortec head flow.
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