81 Chevy LWB drop

[imsmith2k4]

Ok, heres the deal. I have an 81 Chevy LWB and I really want to drop it. If anyone knows the most inexpensive way to do this, lets hear it. ColCrank says to pull rivets from front hanger and raise them but to be honest, I have no clue as to what that means. If anyone can clearify that, I would be greatful. Thanks.

[84chevyboy]

lets see some pics

[imsmith2k4]

I posted some pics in the member gallery under Imsmith2k4 if you want to check out the truck that I want dropped. The pics do no justice to the power the truck actually has..lol.

[lay low 87]

it depends how much drop you want.

[NovaMan]

Nice truck. You want it lower than it already is?




Here's another dumb question: what does LWB mean, or where would I find a glossary of acronyms and abbreviations common to FSC?

[imsmith2k4]

Hey laylow, I like the way yours is sitting. What did you use to drop it?

[lay low 87]

what does LWB mean
long wheel base AKA long bed. SWB or SB=short bed. RC=regular cab. ET=extended cab. those are the most common ones.



Hey laylow, I like the way yours is sitting. What did you use to drop it?

DJM 3/5- spindles and flip kit. although to be accurate my bigger rear tires brought the back up about 1/2"

[imsmith2k4]

Well I am really just trying not to spend too much on the drop right now. Its either spend a bunch and do it right, or just not do it at all. I am trying to find that happy medium and it is not working. You know back when these trucks came out, guys just went into the shop, made a few minor tweeks and came out with a bad ass lowering job. These days we either dont have the know-how or we just simply dont recommend it. I personally, dont recommend the old ways compared to the products they have out now, but to save a few hundred bucks, it sure is tempting. If anyone has any ideas that support this theory please drop a line or two here. Thanks laylow, your all over these threads and that is really cool of you.

[lay low 87]

no prob. thats what its about. with shipping my kit was $350 from Stylin Concepts. i know just what you mean with doing it right on the cheap or not at all. im the same way. i didnt want to go with 3" springs and sacrifice ride plus HAVE to buy new shocks. so i spent another 140, kept ride and alignment and didnt have to buy new shocks because geometry wasnt changed.

now..you COULD do it yourself at no cost, just a lot of labor. for the beginner, i dont recommend this due to the integrity of what youre modifying. cutting springs, sectioning front crossmember, relocating hangers etc.

[imsmith2k4]

I want to keep this thread going so I will post a reply to myself.