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05BlackCrew
01-08-2008, 05:33 PM
Just thought I would list s few details in my 383 build. Maybe it will help some of you with your build. I began with a stock l31 from a 2dr 2wd yukon. My plan was to buid a streetable daily driver. I feel I was successful.

I will begin with my parts list:

- k08-502-8 cam kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DK08%2D502%2D8&autoview=sku

- 2462 hkr headers
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK%2D2462HKR&N=700+115&autoview=sku

- b13005l eagle rotating assembly
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=8074&CtgID=

- rhs12410k1 RHS Pro Torker heads
http://www.competitionproducts.com/products.asp?dept=693

- mel 10555 melling hv oil pump
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MEL%2D10555&N=700+400166+4294908216+4294840140+115&autoview=sku

- gasket kit

- single roller timing chain set

- timing chain cover

- Tuned by Trifecta Performance
https://www.trifectaperformance.com/



I took the block to a local machine shop for decking, boring, cam bearings and a good cleaning. Once I had the block home we cleaned the block once more and began the assembly. The rotating assembly included rod bearings, they were wide and rubbed the crank journals and did not match the bevel on the the rods. So, I purchased a set of the clevite 77 "h" series bearings which had the bevel. We had to clearance the block in several places where the rod bolts came very close to the block. The windage tray also needs to be clearanced or removed/not installed. The assembly went well until it came time to install the double roller timing chain and gear set that came with the cam kit. A double roller will not fit on the vortec motors with a reluctor ring. I purchased and installed a single. The next problem I ran into was the hooker headers for the tbi trucks without egr. My 97 has egr, so I had the egr tuned out and I cut the egr tube and rolled-hammered flat.

The truck runs fine and has good power. I average between 14-16 mpg.

Here's some of the threads that helped me in my build and should answer almost any question you may have.

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/performance/287641-need-help-performance-parts-my-99-tahoe.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/performance/286937-eagle-383-kit.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/performance/288226-cloyes-street-roller-timing-chain-l31-doesnt-work.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/performance/290742-cam-valvetrain-selection-98-383-build.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/technical/299453-block-egr-what-size-plug.html

http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6525

http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6490

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/performance/266597-383-owners-roll-call.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/performance/273094-beast-awakes-its-alive.html

This might not be the Ultimate 383 build thread but it should give you good start.

Wes

oldred95
01-08-2008, 06:11 PM
Its not ultimate until there are some numbers to go along with it. I'm curious how you made a 2 piece rear main seal crank work in a 1 piece rear main block? Wrong link I suppose. Sounds nice and I'm sure it is but it doesn't sound ultimate to me.

sortasuave
01-08-2008, 06:55 PM
Oldred95, Don't your think your being a bit rough on the guy? He didn't have to share any information with anyone. Truth be told, I found the information very helpful as this is something I've been looking at doing. He's done a lot of the leg work for me by providing links to threads he found useful while researching his project out. No where does he say that everything he read in the links applied to his build.

05BlackCrew, Are you concerned in any way with getting the engine past smogging? If memory serves me right, Midland folks do have to pass a smog test and that's been one of my bigger concerns in doing a project like this.

Thanks for sharing!

05BlackCrew
01-08-2008, 08:24 PM
Its not ultimate until there are some numbers to go along with it. I'm curious how you made a 2 piece rear main seal crank work in a 1 piece rear main block? Wrong link I suppose. Sounds nice and I'm sure it is but it doesn't sound ultimate to me.

I'm a bad ass! With a big enough hammer you to can achieve great things! j/k I corrected it. I know its not ultimate but if everyone chims in, it could be.



05BlackCrew, Are you concerned in any way with getting the engine past smogging? If memory serves me right, Midland folks do have to pass a smog test and that's been one of my bigger concerns in doing a project like this.

Thanks for sharing!

No smog test in Midland, the yukon past inspection 2 days ago. Thanks for the positive comments!

bored&stroked
01-08-2008, 08:44 PM
I wouldn't be worried about emissions- at least here in AZ OBD2 vehicles only get a computer check- no tailpipe readings.

Glad you enjoy your new combo :)

oldred95
01-08-2008, 08:56 PM
I'm a bad ass! With a big enough hammer you to can achieve great things! j/k I corrected it. I know its not ultimate but if everyone chims in, it could be.



No smog test in Midland, the yukon past inspection 2 days ago. Thanks for the positive comments!
My post probably read a bit harsh but I was just trying to understand that its not the wildest but its not the mildest either right?

05BlackCrew
01-08-2008, 09:16 PM
My post probably read a bit harsh but I was just trying to understand that its not the wildest but its not the mildest either right?

Correct. I understand.:mushy:

Sin City Hoe
01-09-2008, 08:28 PM
Thanks for all the links. Saved me a bunch of time.!!!

axisT6
01-10-2008, 10:27 AM
Moroso makes a kit to adapt 2 pc rear main cranks to 1 piece blocks. FYI.

Justin_Inc
01-10-2008, 12:19 PM
Moroso makes a kit to adapt 2 pc rear main cranks to 1 piece blocks. FYI.

whats the point when you can just buy the correct crank in the first place?

oldred95
01-10-2008, 12:26 PM
whats the point when you can just buy the correct crank in the first place?
Thats my thought as well.

Joe87monteSS
01-10-2008, 03:05 PM
Is this a factory hydraulic roller block?

05BlackCrew
01-11-2008, 09:25 AM
yup!

1TORUN
01-11-2008, 03:24 PM
What machine shop did you use in Midland? Also curious as to what the build cost you at the end of it all?

05BlackCrew
01-11-2008, 06:12 PM
I actually used a machine shop in Big Spring. Everyone in Midland was back up for months. Total build maybe $4k.

Wes

04SilveradoMykk
01-11-2008, 08:12 PM
Cool, I've been reasearching and considering building a 383 L31. I've sold myself on the aluminum Edelbrock Etec vortec heads with 200cc runners, 2.02" intake valves & 1.6" exhaust, 64cc chambers. $579.50 per head/ assembled

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D60989&N=700+304096+4294840140+4294867028+115&autoview=sku

I haven't chose a cam yet

I've been looking at this stroker kit, but the +12cc dome on the piston has me weary. I'd build mine for a DD

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2DB13404L03053&autoview=sku

NICKOFTIME
01-22-2008, 11:24 AM
Just Wondering If Anyone Has Tried The New Gm Performance Ht383e Smog Legal Drop In Replacement Motor ? Pn:17800393 For Complete Engine With Dist, Pump , And Tin. Also Pn:12499106 Partial Shortblock With Cam. Im Thinking Of Retiring My 350 And Building A Stroker With Their Shortblock.

19doug90
01-22-2008, 08:01 PM
i definitly wouldnt call it an ultimate 383, just a solid DD

that cam puts power exactly where an lt4 cam would in a 350. You just get a little bit more torque from the extra cubes.

the heads 04 silverado pointed out would make crazy power on a 383, and i know comp cams has some xfi cams that make tons of lift at low duration, thatd be a sweet engine.

EDIT: i dont know if this specifically would work but this is insane. 383 would bring that operating rang down by about 200-300 rpm. If you ran a 200-210cc head that flowed really well at high lift, a 383 would down right snap your neck with a cam like that.
i've never built anything even close to that, but in theory seems like itd be a solid combo to me. Think drivetrain failures would be your biggest issue

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D08%2D465%2D8&autoview=sku

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 210
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 210 int./218 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270
Advertised Duration: 260 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with 1.6 Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.560 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with 1.6 Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.550 in.

hud697
01-22-2008, 08:09 PM
I've been thinking about those e-tec's for my 383 build, is anyone on here running them?

And no i didn't do a search, just seen this thread and was curious

19doug90
01-22-2008, 08:14 PM
I've been thinking about those e-tec's for my 383 build, is anyone on here running them?

And no i didn't do a search, just seen this thread and was curious
every gm related message board should have this link stickied http://racingfeed.com/downloads/chevy_flow_data.pdf

has flow numbers for every gen 1 sbc head basically

the e-tec 200 cc heads flow 259/204 compared to stock 350 vortec heads flow 222/152. Combine that with the velocity of the vortec style head design, and those 200's shouldnt have any problem breathing enough for a solid 383

hell the afr 195's flow 262/194 and those are pretty much the best heads you can get for a mild (not crazy top rpm motor) 383

hud697
01-22-2008, 08:25 PM
I'm going to retire the truck as a DD,I have a marine intake and the 411pcm(not installed though)I'm gonna shoot for around 400-425rwhp.Just looking at the options

05BlackCrew
01-22-2008, 08:48 PM
i definitly wouldnt call it an ultimate 383, just a solid DD

that cam puts power exactly where an lt4 cam would in a 350. You just get a little bit more torque from the extra cubes.




I was not trying to imply that my build was the Ultimate 383 build. I was going for this thread to be a good place for building a 383. Thats why I put links to all threads that I read while I was researching my build.

19doug90
01-22-2008, 08:51 PM
I was not trying to imply that my build was the Ultimate 383 build. I was going for this thread to be a good place for building a 383. Thats why I put links to all threads that I read while I was researching my build.

lol i get the title now

regardless that is the perfect setup for a very mild 383 that would have little problem making a solid extra 100 ft lbs over stock if not more.

19doug90
01-22-2008, 08:54 PM
I'm going to retire the truck as a DD,I have a marine intake and the 411pcm(not installed though)I'm gonna shoot for around 400-425rwhp.Just looking at the options

id like some comments on the cam i posted. those 200cc e-tec heads flow till near .60 for sure. I would think that fast a ramp rate of lift, that much lift, and that kind of flow. With super low duration and 113 lsa for relatively easy tuning i with very limited experience think that would make for an insane low end torque motor

mykeybear
10-22-2010, 11:04 AM
Im not sure if everyone already knows about this link but its good info and has some prett legit looking ideas. the techs at carcraft.com decided to try and build a 383 stroker and they have a couple of variations too.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0808_383_stroker_small_block_chevy/index.html

does any one know of a 383 stroker combo that will pass smog in the o so strict state of california.

speedjunkie
10-22-2010, 04:52 PM
There is a good write up at chevy high performace. and the E techs didn't due to well.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0507_street_style_vortec_head_test/index.html
Lot of good info. The best heads that I found would be the AFR vortecs and they are 190cc I think

Justin_Inc
10-22-2010, 09:21 PM
have fun with the edelbrock heads. they're ****ing garbage. if you guys like to bash chinese **** i've seen better quality and more accurate stuff come from overseas than from edelbock heads.