header?'s for christmas

[black5.3]

For christmas this year I am getting enough money to put a decent exhaust on my 2001 Chevy silverado 1500 Z71. My to choices i've narrow it down to are the pace setter LT's, and the Edelbrock shortys; both are ceramic coated,I would also be buying two Magnaflo cats(2.5" in/out). My only concerns are I am looking for a bolt-on header(because i'll be putting them on myself) where there is no welding or fabrication needed to get them on and running. This is a problem with the pace setters from what i've read, so reviews have said they have had to cut and weld some of the stock exhaust just to get them to bolt up and then they were hard to line -up and bolt down.Although i know they will give more power than the shorty's I am wanting them to just bolt in so I can go. But my next question is will the shortys give me any performance gain at all? I would rather sacrifice alittle power than to have to pay the muffler shop another couple $hundred$ to get them to fit right. So that is my question will the shortys be alittle improvement over stock and will i be able to tell a difference? BTW, the truck only has a AEM Brute Force CAI, and will soon have a Nelsons perfromance 93 tune on it.But any tips or hints will be appreciated and if there are some other headers that will be easy to install and offer more power than the Edelbrocks please let me know!! Thanks

BTW-first post!!(lengthy too!!)

[SuperStepside]

Well longtubes will require exhaust modification. Shorties are bolt on and go. If you just have to have headers and dont want to modify the exhaust then get the shorties. They're a tad better than stock manifolds but longtubes will net you the biggest gain.

[black5.3]

Yeah i realise the shortys won't be as powerful by no means but i'm hoping i'll tell an overall difference since i've already got the intake and then the tune will be later. I'm not lookinfor anything huge just an improvement and also so the power will be there when i need it. If anything I want a better boost in the bottom end and mid-range.Won't the shortys be more of a mid-top-end increase?

Thanks

[Pewter-Q]

Definitely go with the Pacesetter's. IMO, shorty's aren't really worth it since they're not going to effect your torque under the curve and only increase your mid to higher rpm hp. The 5.3 can use as much bottom end torque as you can get.

Also, you can get a side exit catback for about $500 and install it yourself without welding anything. I'd go with the LT's, either a cat back or a mild custom system, and the high flow cats.

You're going to feel quite a lot of difference with those mods coupled with your tune. I'm doing the same set up on mine right now, except I'm doing my exhaust myself. Believe me, almost everyone I've ever talked to or read about that has bought shorty's has ended up switching to LT's.

[black5.3]

I know the long tubes would be so nice power wise but really i don't think i can drop the cash to have them professionally installed. After i buy the headers $400-$550 i wont be able to afford the cats or to have them installed. Thats the problem i have. Has anybody ever installed pace setter LT's on our model chevy and know exactly know what kind of mods you have to do to get them to bolt in with the stock exhaust?

Thanks guys!!!

[Underpowered]

the pacesetter are a bolt on and go setup with the ORY pipe they sell as well. the issue that arises and makes them not 100% bolt on is the fact they do not have cats. teh ORY is jsut straight pipe and has not provisions to instal a cat. to run a cat, you have to cut and them in. if you are deleting your cats, the pacesetter LT's are simple bolt on, no mods to your current system at all. however, with the tune you will have to have the rear O2 sensors turned off, or else you will get a Check engine light and run the risk of running rich

[black5.3]

Honestly guys I think i'm just gonna go with the shortys although i'm not getting the best performing package i guess they'll still be worth it in the long run and also i won't have to worry about emissions at all whenever I bolt up the shortys.One more question though,I really want to run true duals on my truck because i want the nice tone with some pop but i dont want the pipe to big because it will just contribute to my loss in low-end. So for my 5.3L would 2.5" pipe be good or would 2.25" or 2" be better for a good tone and saving my low-end?

Thanks guys

[Pewter-Q]

Honestly guys I think i'm just gonna go with the shortys although i'm not getting the best performing package i guess they'll still be worth it in the long run and also i won't have to worry about emissions at all whenever I bolt up the shortys.One more question though,I really want to run true duals on my truck because i want the nice tone with some pop but i dont want the pipe to big because it will just contribute to my loss in low-end. So for my 5.3L would 2.5" pipe be good or would 2.25" or 2" be better for a good tone and saving my low-end?

Thanks guys


If you want duals, go 2.5" with some good high flow mufflers.




Speed Engineering is having a sell on Pacesetter LT's, $375 for the coated one's and $259 for the non-coated. Plus $129 for the Y-pipe and then ~$60 for a high flow cat. You're looking at all of your components for $450 to $585. Plus ~$350 for a single or ~$450 for duals for a shop to run it. Then throw in a tune, which you should get anyways, and you have a low end total of $1000. That's the way to go IMO...


Sure, you might end up saving $200-$300 doing it with the shorties, but you'd regret it IMO...

[black5.3]

Nice, $375 for the long tubes and then another $130 for the ORY. That might have just changed my mind I'll look into it and let you know!!

[black5.3]

Yep!!! its a done deal after seeing those deals i cant turn them down. the Pace setter LTs will only be roughly $50 more than the shortys and with the y-pipe will put me at exactly $504 w/o shipping and if i can work it out i will see if i can install the headers and y-pipe without the cats and then after they are installed i will try to get my stock cats welded in to tide me over till i can afford to have my true duals ran with my new high flows. But i'm gonna try and get my cats back in the same day my headers are installed so i dont throw a code. Thanks guys for the info and keep the ideas comin!!! now i just have to figure out to install my stock cats into the y-pipe and get my o2 sensors right so i don't throw a code!!!

[5.7L JWL]

I'm not too familiar with the NBS exhaust set up, but I think the system you have finalized will be nice. One thing I will suggest to you. I know that you are building this thing on a budget, but invest in some Locking header bolts. "Stage 8" or "Percey's" ( Summit sells both) are the only two I am familiar with. I have the Stage 8's and they have worked very well. We have them on 2 other vehicles and the Drag Truck. I have not touched them since the install 2 yrs ago. If I were to do it again, I would use the Percey's. I like that design better and the bolts are Stainless. The Stage 8 bolts are chrome and they rusted on me. The Stage 8's are the cheaper (money wise) of the 2 and if you decide on them get the longer size bolt. The new header flange will be thicker and with new gaskets the shorter bolt doesn't have as many threads going into the head as the longer ones will.

[Pewter-Q]

Yep!!! its a done deal after seeing those deals i cant turn them down. the Pace setter LTs will only be roughly $50 more than the shortys and with the y-pipe will put me at exactly $504 w/o shipping and if i can work it out i will see if i can install the headers and y-pipe without the cats and then after they are installed i will try to get my stock cats welded in to tide me over till i can afford to have my true duals ran with my new high flows. But i'm gonna try and get my cats back in the same day my headers are installed so i dont throw a code. Thanks guys for the info and keep the ideas comin!!! now i just have to figure out to install my stock cats into the y-pipe and get my o2 sensors right so i don't throw a code!!!


Glad I could be of help!

Shipping for mine was $48 but still not too bad. Considering you're getting like 12lbs of metal sent to your house. :aniteef:

Since the new headers come with O2 bungs welded in, you could just get the shop to weld up you stock cat after the y-pipe. If you can afford it though, get a custom tune done and you won't ever have to worry about cats again. Of course if you live in a County that does emissions testing, then you'll need to weld at least one of them in. Either way, when you can afford it, definitely get a custom tune, it'll really help your mods work and it'll free up a lot of horsepower and torque. You'll also get an mpg or two if you can keep your foot out of it!


Glad to see a younger guy on here not being a know it all and actually asking some good questions. Good luck with your truck, it'll definitely be completely different with the LT's and the duals.

[timber74wolf]

I am looking at the Pacesetter long tube headers and the matching y-pipe also. I understand that the headers have only 1 O2 sensor holes and that the Y-pipe matches directly to the headers. So my 1st question is would you run a single cat leading to a catback system or forget the Y-pipe and just run 2 cats with a true dual exhaust. Does anyone know if there are extenders for the 2nd set of O2 sensors to mount them after the cats? Also does anyone know of a set of Pacesetter headers with out the EGR tube coming off the side of the headers? It is such an eye sore. Also where would you recommend mounting the cats? And will it set a code even if you install the O2 sensors after the cats?

[Pewter-Q]

I'm not too familiar with the NBS exhaust set up, but I think the system you have finalized will be nice. One thing I will suggest to you. I know that you are building this thing on a budget, but invest in some Locking header bolts. "Stage 8" or "Percey's" ( Summit sells both) are the only two I am familiar with. I have the Stage 8's and they have worked very well. We have them on 2 other vehicles and the Drag Truck. I have not touched them since the install 2 yrs ago. If I were to do it again, I would use the Percey's. I like that design better and the bolts are Stainless. The Stage 8 bolts are chrome and they rusted on me. The Stage 8's are the cheaper (money wise) of the 2 and if you decide on them get the longer size bolt. The new header flange will be thicker and with new gaskets the shorter bolt doesn't have as many threads going into the head as the longer ones will.




You just reminded me what I forgot to buy on my last summit order!

:lol:


The locking fasteners are definitely a very good idea, headers are notorious for springing leaks after some time. Also, make sure to get some quality copper collector gaskets, or if not, double up some aluminum ones. Collectors also leak fairly often if not set up properly.

[5.7L JWL]

You just reminded me what I forgot to buy on my last summit order!


Glad I could be of some service to you:rocking:

Are you getting the Percey's or the 8's, or something else?

[black5.3]

I've already got plans lined up to have it all installed by a local mechanic and me and him are gonna work on it together. But for my next questions.
The headers have the bungs installed but thats only for the first 2, What do i do with the last four. I have to reinstall them so it runs good and dosen't throw a code.
Where can I install the 2 stock cats at so all the o2 sensors can go in the correct place? Can i just hack up the ORY-pipe and weld the stock cats there so it will be close to the stock position?
If i'm right the stock exhaust on my truck from the manifold back is 2.5",so if the header collecters and ORY-pipe is 3" then that means if i weld the cats in then i'm gonna have to use 2 reducers(3"in/2.5"out) per cat and then another one where the ORY-pipe will meet the stock exhaust. Will this work or do i need to find another way?

Suggestions please!!!Thanks

[Pewter-Q]

I've already got plans lined up to have it all installed by a local mechanic and me and him are gonna work on it together. But for my next questions.
The headers have the bungs installed but thats only for the first 2, What do i do with the last four. I have to reinstall them so it runs good and dosen't throw a code.
Where can I install the 2 stock cats at so all the o2 sensors can go in the correct place? Can i just hack up the ORY-pipe and weld the stock cats there so it will be close to the stock position?
If i'm right the stock exhaust on my truck from the manifold back is 2.5",so if the header collecters and ORY-pipe is 3" then that means if i weld the cats in then i'm gonna have to use 2 reducers(3"in/2.5"out) per cat and then another one where the ORY-pipe will meet the stock exhaust. Will this work or do i need to find another way?

Suggestions please!!!Thanks


Do this, use the money you will save on the labor not putting your stock cats back in and get a tune from Justin at Blackbear Performance. It'll cost you $200 and he can delete your other O2 sensors. All the while getting rid of your torque management and firming up your shifts.


But, if you do keep the stock cats, you'd have to return the y-pipe and just run the cats with a reducer on the end of each header. Then you could just run your true duals then. It'll cost more and you won't be able to use your y-pipe due to it being pushed too far back with the cats there.



Oh and 5.7L JWL, I'm getting the Percey's in stainless. Should look good with my coated Pacesetter's. I'm also pickin' up a few band clamps and maybe a V-band or two. I'm hopin' my exhaust and my truck in general will be done before the year ends.

[black5.3]

Oh, are you sayin I can skip buying the ORY-pipe and just use a reducer on each collecter(3"in/2.5"out) then run my cats off the stock y-pipe after we get it all bolted up and measured up to fit?What size is the stock exhaust at the cats?

[Pewter-Q]

Oh, are you sayin I can skip buying the ORY-pipe and just use a reducer on each collecter(3"in/2.5"out) then run my cats off the stock y-pipe after we get it all bolted up and measured up to fit?What size is the stock exhaust at the cats?


I think, if you mean just using your stock cats, one on the end of each muffler, then yes. You could then just run the 2.5" duals you want to do and save up for some high flow cats later on. That way you wouldn't have any funky reduced then enlarged joints, just a smooth 2.5" all the way out. If you must have the cats for now, then that would be the most cost effective way of doing it, IMO.

I don't know 100%, but IIRC, mine is 2.5" at the cats and 2.75" after the y-pipe.

[black5.3]

I got to thinking and what i'm gonna do is run the headers with the ORY-pipe kit and what i'm gonna try and do is fabricate the ORY alittle to see if I can get my cats in the stock position(just on the ORY-pipe) cause I was looking on JEGS.com and I can buy o2 senser extensions and if the Cats throw the whole system back further than expected I can just buy the o2 sensor extensions and plug it all up right.

So what i'm looking at having to buy is the Headers, ORY-pipe kit,4 or 5 reducers, collecter gasket kit(don't need it but want to put quality gaskets in with the kit),and possibly a new set of header gaskets(just to make sure i'm puttin on quality gaskets). Not unless the header gaskets that come with the headers are good enough.

If i can do this any better way please let me know, becuase so far this is the easiest way I know to do it. But keep the info comin guys!!

Thanks, Jonathon

[Pewter-Q]

Does your state or county require that you run cats?


If they do, then that would be your best bet. But you'll have a hard time fitting everything in. From what I've measured on my truck, it should fit. The stock y-pipe already houses the cats anyways. My truck only has the front two sensors on my manifolds though. Either my truck came with no rear sensor or the previous owner deleted them when he put the crap dual set up that was on there when I got it.


If you want to see what your headers are going to look like, look in the projects thread later on...

[black5.3]

yeah N.C. does emissions testing for the cats and if you don't have them its a HUGE fine, so I need them.But does my previous method of installing the cats sound good? I mean it's alot of extra reducers and what-not but it sounds alittle easier to me.I may have been mixed up on the o2 sensors I thought there were 3 on each side but I actually believe its 2 on each side, sence you mentioned it, I'll check. Thanks

[Pewter-Q]

Sounds like it'll work to me. But just run your front sensors and get the rears deleted via a custom tune. Seriously, you'll need one to really get the full benefit of your headers. And it's very much worth it.

[black5.3]

Gotcha, well I checked my truck and it only has 2 o2 sensors on each side of the exhuast so the headers already come with with o2 sensor extensions for the bungs on the header but I can also buy another pair of o2 sensor extensions that are 24" long for the next 2 o2 sensors so all that stuff should still hook-up when my headers are installed.So i guess i'm set to order my stuff and keep plannin' the install.

Thanks

[Radguy]

I just put on the edelbrock ceramic coated shorties a month ago. The biggest reason I bought them was because they were a direct replacement for my cracked stock manifolds, and I got them for 250 shipped to my door:cool:

As far as performance, didn't notice anything, but I'm sure that's because the rest of my exhuast is stock.....for now:cool:

[5.7L JWL]

Oh and 5.7L JWL, I'm getting the Percey's in stainless. Should look good with my coated Pacesetter's. I'm also pickin' up a few band clamps and maybe a V-band or two. I'm hopin' my exhaust and my truck in general will be done before the year ends.

Percey's :rocking:


I was under the impression ( from how it's described in the summit catalog) That the v-bands were a type of "system". You need to have a female v (groove) in the pipe for the clamp to work:dunno:. Did I just read that completely wrong?


I wouldn't rush the set-up. It would be nice to have it done but I say "patience makes perfect"

[5.7L JWL]

.But does my previous method of installing the cats sound good? I mean it's alot of extra reducers and what-not but it sounds alittle easier to me.

You could always get the shop (price it first) to weld up a flange on the pipe where you "want the stock cats", then when you get new ones, remove some bolts at the new flanges and install the new cats when you get them. You may still have to do some fabbing after buying the new cats but if you do your homework now (decide on the high flow cats you WIIL BUY, that way you know how long they are. You could then have the section of pipe between the two flanges (2 for each side) and the old cats made to the length of the new cats you will be getting).

Did I just completely confuse you? If so I will try to make it clearer, just let me know.:eek:

[Pewter-Q]

Percey's :rocking:


I was under the impression ( from how it's described in the summit catalog) That the v-bands were a type of "system". You need to have a female v (groove) in the pipe for the clamp to work:dunno:. Did I just read that completely wrong?


I wouldn't rush the set-up. It would be nice to have it done but I say "patience makes perfect"

Hmm, I think what they mean is that each respective end of pipe that are getting connected have a flange welded on the end of it and the band holds them together. I didn't order them anyways, I figure my collectors won't leak for a while, and when and if they do I'll fix them. I ended up getting two butt joint clamps and one lap joint.


I think your idea about the exhaust would be the best thing. Just have the stock cats welded inside of the two flanges which would be on the y-pipe. Then make sure the space between the flanges is enough for your new cats. That way, you can just bolt it all together when you get everything together. JWL is right, planning ahead is the most important thing in an exhaust setup. Just make sure you don't get ahead of yourself and you'll be good...

[5.7L JWL]

Hmm, I think what they mean is that each respective end of pipe that are getting connected have a flange welded on the end of it and the band holds them together. I didn't order them anyways,

Now that you put it that way, it sounds like that IS what they mean.

[black5.3]

Um, you confused me alittle,I get the basic idea of what your saying but its not 100% clear.I'm gonna see if I can talk to the mechanic again soon and see if we can get my truck on the lift and go ahead and get some ideas on where all this stuff is gonna go and if we can figure out something better than what i've been thinking about doing. Also if I end up putting the cats in where i want to would it be safe to clamp them in real tight or do I need to weld them in, I mean there not gonna stay their for ever just maybe 1 year at the most.Thanks again and if you could clear the whole flange thing up alittle that would be great!!

[Pewter-Q]

Also if I end up putting the cats in where i want to would it be safe to clamp them in real tight or do I need to weld them in, I mean there not gonna stay their for ever just maybe 1 year at the most.


If you use some good, quality clamps, you shouldn't have to worry about welding. But, if you do flange the cats in, you'd need four clamps and you'd have at least two flanges for the cats. It would be a lot easier and cheaper if you could weld them.

[black5.3]

well i'll weld them then to insure their sealed up good and don't leak. As for the ORY-pipe does that clamp to the headers or are they suppose to be welded to? Can you even weld on the ceramic coating or does it have to be stripped off to weld it right?

[black5.3]

Alright i got the word from my parents and we're ordering all my stuff monday evening(12-8-08) so maybe if all the shipping is right I'll get it maybe a week before Christmas. So with everything thats been said I believe I've got some good ideas on how to rig my exhuast up. But before i order if you have any more suggestions on what I need or any more ideas on how to hook-up my exhaust that would help out alot guys!!

Thanks

[Pewter-Q]

I think what you have planned will work well. But the only way to know for sure it to wait for it all to come in and have it on hand so that you'll be able to better see how it's all going to work together.

[5.7L JWL]

As for the ORY-pipe does that clamp to the headers or are they suppose to be welded to? Can you even weld on the ceramic coating or does it have to be stripped off to weld it right?


The ORY SHOULD have a flange that bolts to the headers. If you weld on ceramic or grind the coating off, you have defeated the purpose of the coating.

[timber74wolf]

Does anyone have any pictures of the work on the true duals they have on their trucks? Do the duals run side by side down the passenger side of the truck to the rear?

[Underpowered]

The ORY SHOULD have a flange that bolts to the headers. If you weld on ceramic or grind the coating off, you have defeated the purpose of the coating.


pacesetters do not have the flanges however, they are a slip fit, that may have to be welded, but i know for sure they do not have flanges on them


as for runnign true duals, every setup i have seen on NBS truck have both pipes running down the pass side of the truck.

[black5.3]

pacesetters do not have the flanges however, they are a slip fit, that may have to be welded, but i know for sure they do not have flanges on them


as for runnign true duals, every setup i have seen on NBS truck have both pipes running down the pass side of the truck.


See I thought the pacesetters didn't have a flange either, they are slip fit. So do you just clamp that or weld.I don't want to have to strip any of the coating off but in order to weld it properly dosen't it have to be stripped to the bare metal.

[5.7L JWL]

pacesetters do not have the flanges however, they are a slip fit,

I did not know that. I've never looked into that brand. Good to know. Thanks.

[5.7L JWL]

in order to weld it properly dosen't it have to be stripped to the bare metal.

Key word is PROPERLY. Yes, to do it properly you would, but they can be welded without stripping it off. The heat however will cook the coating off close to the weld anyway. If it were me, I would try it with a clamp first. My Cat-Back I have is clamped, and there are no signs of leakage at all. I double-nutted everything (on the cat back) and haven't touched it since.

[black5.3]

yeah i figured for it to be a "proper" weld it has to be clean with no contaminents in the metal. Depending on how the ORY slips into the headers or vise-versa i'll try the clamp method but if it's a tad loose i'll try and weld it so the pipe won't bend in with the clamp or crimp. Keep the ideas commin' guys!!

[5.7L JWL]

Depending on how the ORY slips into the headers or vise-versa i'll try the clamp method but if it's a tad loose i'll try and weld it so the pipe won't bend in with the clamp or crimp. Keep the ideas commin' guys!!

Since they will both be from the same manufacturer, I would think they would slip together well. There are butt clamps and lap-joint clamps available. you would just need the Dia. of the pipe.

[black5.3]

Well I ordered everything today; so i hope I got everything.I'll keep in touch with how everything is.

thanks guys!!

[Pewter-Q]

No problem man, that's what we are here for.


I just test fitted my ORY to my headers, you'll need to invest in some quality SS lap joint clamps. :aniteef: It's a little loose for sure, but not horrible. Instead of welding on the coating and destroying it, I'd go with the clamp method.

[black5.3]

Alrighty, Clamps come with the ORY kit but probly not enough. So I'll probly end up running to the parts store and picking up extra clamps, and mayby some butt-joints or lap-joints.

Thanks

[Pewter-Q]

Alrighty, Clamps come with the ORY kit but probly not enough. So I'll probly end up running to the parts store and picking up extra clamps, and mayby some butt-joints or lap-joints.

Thanks


The kit just comes U-bolt clamps, the kind that crush the joint and make an obstruction of flow. I would definitely use some lap joint clamps, you'll need three just to bolt the ORY together and then to the headers.

[black5.3]

So when i go to the parts store I want to check out lap-joint clamps and lap-joints. I'll need 4-5 of each correct?

[Pewter-Q]

So when i go to the parts store I want to check out lap-joint clamps and lap-joints. I'll need 4-5 of each correct?


Well, I'm using two for my headers to connect to the ORY and one for the ORY itself. Also, I'm using two on my muffler, just in case it's too loud or I want to change it in the future. The rest I'll most likely weld. So yeah, 4 or 5 should be enough.

[BigRed05]

Quentin empty your inbox.

[Pewter-Q]

Quentin empty your inbox.


Got it coach! I was wondering why I wasn't hearing back from ya. :lol:

[1bad2k]

If you aou are going to put on headers def go with the pacesetters. Shorties give very little gains if any at all. Also do go with something ceramic coated to keep underhood ambient temps down.

[black5.3]

I just ordered all my stuff monday at about 5-5:30pm and my reducers and o2 sensor extensions from JEGS just came today so maybe headers and ORY will be here by the end of this week!! But I went to my local AutoZone and was looking for the Lap-joint clamps and all they had was the usuall u-bolt clamps so I bought 3-3" clamps and 2-2 1/2" clamps. So i'll check it all out and let you guys know!

Thanks

[black5.3]

Wow, the closer it gets for me to put my headers on the more problems I run into!! while just checking out my manifolds really good I noticed A black haze around the rear(closest to the cab of the truck)of both manifolds.After looking more closely I noticed that both of the manifolds last bolt as broke off at the flange level with the head of the bolt:bawl: . Its the bolt that is the hardest to get to because of the fire-wall and it has just snapped off over time i guess. The end of it is real rusty just like the others so it must have happened a long time ago.So i give the mechanic a call that i'm gonna help put the exhaust on and I tell him whats going on and he said we can just remove everything around the two broke bolts and after spraying them with PB Blaster and letting them soak we can try and remove them by tapping with a hammer or pputting pliers o them and trying to unscrew them. I know it will be hard to get them out no matter which way we try and take them out but I wanted to run it by yall and see what yall thought about it or could give any ideas on how to get them out easier.

Thanks

[Pewter-Q]

Wow, the closer it gets for me to put my headers on the more problems I run into!! while just checking out my manifolds really good I noticed A black haze around the rear(closest to the cab of the truck)of both manifolds.After looking more closely I noticed that both of the manifolds last bolt as broke off at the flange level with the head of the bolt:bawl: . Its the bolt that is the hardest to get to because of the fire-wall and it has just snapped off over time i guess. The end of it is real rusty just like the others so it must have happened a long time ago.So i give the mechanic a call that i'm gonna help put the exhaust on and I tell him whats going on and he said we can just remove everything around the two broke bolts and after spraying them with PB Blaster and letting them soak we can try and remove them by tapping with a hammer or pputting pliers o them and trying to unscrew them. I know it will be hard to get them out no matter which way we try and take them out but I wanted to run it by yall and see what yall thought about it or could give any ideas on how to get them out easier.

Thanks




Wow man, that really sucks. But a pick or some pliers maaayyyyy get it out. If not, if you can get it back there, an EZ-out might work. But I wouldn't let it worry you too much man. That's the way it usually goes with workin' on your vehicle, it's never easy and it's usually an extremely difficult and painful process. But that's why we love it so much! :lol:

[tex2500]

Wow, the closer it gets for me to put my headers on the more problems I run into!! while just checking out my manifolds really good I noticed A black haze around the rear(closest to the cab of the truck)of both manifolds.After looking more closely I noticed that both of the manifolds last bolt as broke off at the flange level with the head of the bolt:bawl: . Its the bolt that is the hardest to get to because of the fire-wall and it has just snapped off over time i guess. The end of it is real rusty just like the others so it must have happened a long time ago.So i give the mechanic a call that i'm gonna help put the exhaust on and I tell him whats going on and he said we can just remove everything around the two broke bolts and after spraying them with PB Blaster and letting them soak we can try and remove them by tapping with a hammer or pputting pliers o them and trying to unscrew them. I know it will be hard to get them out no matter which way we try and take them out but I wanted to run it by yall and see what yall thought about it or could give any ideas on how to get them out easier.

Thanks
Not to be a downer, but unless you can grab hold of the broken stub of the bolt with vice grips, you're gonna have to pull the heads, the engine is too far back into the firewall on the NBS trucks to center punch the bolt or even get a drill in there,and its not worth the risk to try, you could punch into a water jacket if the drill goes in crooked, or if the hole isnt straight you could snap the easy out and then you would need a new cyl head. I just got done with this royal headache, honestly take it to the dealership on this one unless your really trust your mechanic to do this right, mine hasnt been the same since I took it to a shop and had this exact procedure done.

[Pewter-Q]

Yeah, I guess I was giving the optimistic view on this one. The engines are far too back for my liking, but getting some of that weight farther back over the front axle center line surely helps weight distribution and handling. I'd definitely get someone with experience doing this specific thing to be safe. A new set of head gaskets and the labor to put them in is going to be a lot cheaper than replacing your head or entire block.

[black5.3]

Well after we remove the manifold, the flange is thick enough to leave enough of the bolt sticking out to put some pliers on it. I have already called him about the issue and he has dealt with them before and what he said is it will make the project alittle harder but mainly just time consuming. But he said if we give them enough PB Blaster at the treads and tap the bolt hard enough with a hammer it should break loose enough to thread it out with pliers. And also when you get the flange out of the way there will be a good recess in the head where the header bolt threads into the Cyl. head, he said this will also help the PB Blaster get deeper into the threads. So yeah it sucks pretty bad but now I know where the Exhaust leak noise is coming from when it's first cranked up in the morning, so now the leak will be fixed and the power gain from the headers will be great!!.

Thanks for the help guys!!

[tex2500]

^^get some vice grips if the pliers dont work, you can get a lot more clamping force. PB blaster will be your best friend too, that stuff works miracles
you got really lucky, on my truck 3 out of the 5 broken bolts on the makifolds had snapped off flush with the cylinder head only two could be pulled with pliers, and both heads had to come off because the ones by the firewall were broken off in the head. Sounds like you got this under control

[black5.3]

^^^^^Thats good to know; I guess i'll only know when i can get in there and start working on it. But hopefully they come out and I can get everything taken care of with no major problems. Headers never came today (12-11-08) so maybe they'll come tomorrow and I can check everything out.

[black5.3]

Hey guys just wanted to let yall know the ORY-pipe kit come in today and it looks like a nice piece of work!! I'm pumped up now to get this thing done and running!! Now just waiting on the headers and I'll have everything. It's gonna be sweet!!!

[5.7L JWL]

Post some pics of the before and after engine compartment. I wish I had done this before all my mods.

[Pewter-Q]

Awesome man! If you're anything like me, you'll be itching to get 'em on. I second the picture notion. I'm in the process of doing mine now and I'm taking quite a few pictures along the way.

[black5.3]

Awesome man! If you're anything like me, you'll be itching to get 'em on. I second the picture notion. I'm in the process of doing mine now and I'm taking quite a few pictures along the way.



Yeah i'm deff itching to get them on its gonna be a nice modification over stock!! But for the pics your gonna have to have Lionel handle those, I have no Digital camera or all the special equipment to put the pics on the computer. Notice how i have no pics or anything in my sig. But Lionel I don't know if you said you bought the ORY-pipe or not but the thing is beast compared to the stock Y-pipe and looks like it is made of quality.Where I see my problems happening is the two broken bolts on the manifolds and putting my cats somewhere in the y-pipe. I can't do the o2 sensor delete or any of that stuff so I've got to have both cats somewhere in there. I thought about just putting one of the cats in the system but then i got to thinking and i'm not sure if just one cat could flow for all 8-cylinders when it supposed to be for only 4-cylinders.But so far my plan is to put a cat in the ORY-pipe, (on the left side of the y-pipe where it pulls a 90degree curve towards the right side of the vehicle, theres about maybe 2' of straight pipe and if I get all my measurements right I could squeeze a cat in there ). But where can I put the other one so it flows just for the other 4-cylinders, do you think i could put one right after the right side header or should i leave space for the exhaust to exit the header before it goes into the cat(i'm not gonna put the cat directly to the header but it will be very close to the header, maybe 2"-4"). Sorry so many questions but I'm hyped about the whole thing and I might be planning this whole thing to much, I know plans will change whenever I get under the truck but I'm just wanting some ideas so when plans do go wrong i'll have some backups waiting.

Thanks guys!!!

[tex2500]

I thought about just putting one of the cats in the system but then i got to thinking and i'm not sure if just one cat could flow for all 8-cylinders when it supposed to be for only 4-cylinders.
If your truck has to pass a visual inspection of the emissions system it will fail with only one cat, its illegal to modilfy the number of cats for less than stock. If it came from the factory with two the tech will be looking for two. Also cats are sized by engine displacement so if it requires two cats for the size of the engine then it would probably have too high NOX and HC readings if you have to pass the TSI/ASM emissions test. If you are looking for all the fab parts you need, (O2 sensor bungs etc), go to http://www.coneeng.com/ they have everything you would need to splice in two aftermarket cats. All you would need is a drill, a sawzall, and a welder.

[black5.3]

Well i'm using all the stock o2 sensors and bungs so i'll just cut those off and re-weld them to the ORY-pipe.The headers already have the bungs for the first set of o2 sensors;so i'll just reweld the last two bungs somewhere after the cats. But yes the emissions testing in N.C. is not real strict but you've pretty much got to have everything stock to pass. But i'll still pass as long as i have both cats.

Thanks guys