adambodkins
07-11-2009, 09:14 PM
Hey everyone. I just got my second Chevy truck today. I drive a mustang for d/d but I wanted a truck and couldn't pass up the deal I got on this one. It is a 92 chevy 1500 4wd 4.3l with a 5 speed. The bad. My clutch is out. That is why I got this truck for 400.00 That and the guy that sold it to me I work with and he is in a financial bind. I am mechanically inclined. But I don't know too much on chevy trucks. And that much about clutches. However I have a full working garage and probably all the tools necessary. But I figured someone could point me in the right direction or maybe a how to on replacing the clutch. He told me he had already replaced the master cylinder and that is verified by the new part under the hood. So this is where I am at. BTW I am from Jackson TN if anyone is local and wants to help.
http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq170/adambodkins/001.jpg
http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq170/adambodkins/003-1.jpg
CustomChevyGuy
07-11-2009, 11:46 PM
welcome to :fsc:
sounds like you're prepaired to get the job done with the setup, but TN is a bit of a drive for me :read:
FordeatinZ71
07-12-2009, 12:57 AM
well, what is it doing? i mean, does it just have no clutch pedal feel or does it slip? or does it just not disengage (can't get it in gear because it feels like the clutch isn't working at all)?
if it has no clutch pedal feel, then you probably need a slave cylinder (there's a master and a slave cylinder for the clutch. the slave should be down on the bellhousing of the transmission...
if it has slippage, you need to replace the clutch. a clutch kit is around $150 i think...and will have a new pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing, pilot bushing and an alignment tool. important to remember, when you replace the clutch...you will need to inspect the flywheel and possibly have it turned. i have them turned every time i do a clutch if possible. it just gives the new clutch a good surface to break in on.
if the clutch isn't "disengaging", it could be a few things...either a hydraulic problem (yes, he put a master cylinder in it...but did he bleed the system properly? if not, the new parts aren't doing anything but looking pretty) or the clutch release bearing broke through the pressure plate...which, again, would mean replacing the clutch.
to replace it is really straightforward. you pull the front and rear d-shafts...pull the shifter out from inside the truck...disconnect the few connectors on it and the t-case...disconnect the linkage from the t-case...remove bolts from bellhousing...remove starter (AFTER DISCONNECTING BATTERY)...remove clutch hydraulics/linkage connecting clutch pedal shaft to release fork...remove bolts from crossmember (HAVE JACK FIRMLY SUPPORTING TRANSMISSION/T-CASE ASSEMBLY BEFORE YOU DO THIS!) and slide back the transmission/t-case assembly.
once it's out of the way (leave it under truck, you'll be re-installing it soon), remove the bolts holding the clutch onto the flywheel. be ready when you get them all out...she ain't that light. inspect flywheel, use your best judgement here...but if it has ANY grooving or heat markings...i'd have it turned. if you are having it turned, remove the bolts that hold it to the crankshaft and take it to a machine shop to have it turned and have them install your pilot bushing. when re-installing it, make SURE the dowel pin is in the right hole. while it's out, i'd replace the rear main seal. it almost always leaks and it's too easy/cheap to not replace at this point.
once all that is done, re-install the clutch disc/pressure plate assembly. put all the bolts in with lock-tite on them...DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM YET. gently snug them...then, using your alignment tool, make sure it goes ALL the way into the splines/flywheel. leave it in place and torque the clutch pressure plate to spec. make sure it will easily slide in and out...if it won't...put it back in place and loosen the bolts...wiggle it around some, then retorque them...should be fine after that.
after that's done, put a little grease on your transmission input shaft...and slide it back into position. once it's in place, make sure your release fork lined up right and the transmission bellhousing is on it's dowel pin right...then start putting bolts back in...reinstall starter (reconnect battery), re-install and lubricate driveshafts...reconnect all linkages and connectors. this is good time to make sure your transmission/t-case has plenty of fluid...
read the clutch instructions for "break-in" period...and you should be good to go!
welcome aboard!
Macedawg
07-12-2009, 02:06 AM
welcome to :fsc: i'm from Knoxville,Tn..i'd lend a hand but i'm on the opposite side of the state :lol:
uncchevy
07-12-2009, 10:43 AM
Welcome, to :fsc: from knoxville.