removing rear speakers in a 93 K1500

[remist17]

Looking to replace the rear speakers in a 93 reg cab. Do I need to tear off all the molding aroung the door and rear window to remove the speaker?

I would assume that the rear molding needs to come off.

[cancritter]

yup but they are a pain and break easly so be cautious

[remist17]

the speakers or the trim?

Whats everyons opinion on Sony speakers. I found some at walmart that were 4x6 with a independant tweeter, for about 30 dollars.

[mchammer9111]

I would just get a 6 1/2's and have them mounted into the doors. You will get better sound from them and you wont risk breaking the plastic stuff in the back plus I know that getting that stuff back in can cause squeaks etc so it becomes a pain. I think the place in town quoted me 100 bucks to put speakers in the door and the speaker price depends on you!!

[xxEMOxx]

Get door speakers, once you crack or break that rear molding you will be pissed trust, i broke 2 on my old 94' before i said eff it and just cut the wire to the rears all together and went with a nice set of comp 6.5's up front.

You will be much happier and in a truck you really dont need rear fill anyway.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PRECISION-POWER-PPI-356CS-6-5-CAR-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS_W0QQitemZ300351806940QQcmdZViewItemQQptZC ar_Speakers?hash=item45ee5cdddc&_trksid=p4999.c0.m14 These speakers are $135 shipped and are amazing, they will blow apline, or any of those other store bought speakers out of the water. They are actually A/D/S speakers rebranded..... They are up there with old german mbquart, Boston's and Diamond Audios.... the top of line big boys at am amazing price.... getting those with an amp will make you much happier then some $30 walmart speakrs, plus wont have to wrry about breaking the trim panel.... which BTW you will break 1 or 2 before you get it right.

[Exalted512]

If you take that back apart, you are going to break tabs. Its basically a fact of life...lol.

-Cody

[Redneckmuddking]

I think the sony speakers are alright. ive had them in my last two trucks and have been pleased with them especally for their price.

[justind]

I too have the walmart sony's in my truck. They are fine for the price, but you can't expect much from 4x6's.

[remist17]

I put the speakers in the fronts I was really happy with them. Still debaiting on the rears. If I leave them in I am affraid they will start to crack. I really dont want to cut up the door panels. So Im kinda limited on what I put in. Why is removing trim so hard? I would think if any typw of body work is required the trim would need to be removed. IE floor pans, cab corners, rockers. Is there something I need to look for like hidden screws or issues you all have had?

[1badgmc]

I put the speakers in the fronts I was really happy with them. Still debaiting on the rears. If I leave them in I am affraid they will start to crack. I really dont want to cut up the door panels. So Im kinda limited on what I put in. Why is removing trim so hard? I would think if any typw of body work is required the trim would need to be removed. IE floor pans, cab corners, rockers. Is there something I need to look for like hidden screws or issues you all have had?

It's not really hard to remove the trim, it's just that there's a lot of it and you need to be patient and very careful with it so you don't break any of the tabs. There are no hidden screws besides the coat hooks and seatbelts. It's all held on with clips and tabs. Your truck is 16 years old and plastic can get brittle. Just be careful with it if you do it.

[TIGERZ]

save up and get a pair of components and mount them to the door. You'll be happy you did. I almost replaced my crappy 4*6s then found a pair of components on sale for $100 and used a $60 amp off ebay i had lying around and they are soooo much nicer. I can crank them up pretty high and they have a good amount of bass to them without static. I also have a 93 reg cab.

4x6s are junk.

Save up for the 6 1/2s and just disconnect all the factory 4x6s. Trust me on this

[xxEMOxx]

It's not really hard to remove the trim, it's just that there's a lot of it and you need to be patient and very careful with it so you don't break any of the tabs. There are no hidden screws besides the coat hooks and seatbelts. It's all held on with clips and tabs. Your truck is 16 years old and plastic can get brittle. Just be careful with it if you do it.

I totally second this, I have had issues just doing the head unit on my 95' I broke half the clips off, and not intentionally I knew full well what I was getting into and they just where old and brittle.

On the back of my 94' I removed the trim, it all comes out in 1 whole piece, literally the clips can sometimes be tight and like Cody said you will break them period. Like I said with my dash I broke them and I took my time and babied it totally still broke them.

Also like Tigerz said and I will second along with alot more on the forum 6.5's and an amp will do you 100x better then an 4x6 you can get. Even if you get Walmart 6.5's and a cheapy E-bay amp or etc. You will be much more happy then if you go to replace the 4x6's.

[FastBlak]

Just invest the money in a good pair of components for the fronts and fade all the way to the front and forget about those rear speakers. If you try to take it apart things will break.

[BOTMAN]

Just invest the money in a good pair of components for the fronts and fade all the way to the front and forget about those rear speakers. If you try to take it apart things will break.

I would disagree on fading all the way to the front. It would be better just to disconnet the speakers at the headunit.

Taking apart the back isn't bad, but the first time you need to be really careful on where you pull on the plastic because pieces will break if you go he man on it.

[Semper]

ya i was plannin on doing the same thing on my 97k1500 but ive decided to leave the rears alone and just replace the 6.5s up front and get a new head unit and call it a day.

[remist17]

I really do not want to start hacking up my doors to put non Stock speakers in. I am hoping that I can get the trim off. If not I am out what ever it costs to repalce the trim. Its to bad no one makes a good pair of 4x6 speakers. I am not looking to put a killer system in, just a functional stereo. I already cant hear.

[TIGERZ]

i wouldn't call it "hacking"

trust me the first cut was the hardest because i knew i couldn't go back once i started.

i'm very happy with mine

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b142/Screamn4444/doorpanel.jpg

[justind]

That looks good, did you have to cut the door frame behind the door card? Or is there already a hole?

[dsponder]

you have to cut the door to.

[justind]

you have to cut the door to.

Thanks man, I just might have to throw some in my truck.

[dsponder]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t157/dsponder/DSC01449.jpg

[TIGERZ]

Yeah a pair of tin snips and a steel file and ur good to go.

[justind]

I figured I'd need to use an air grinder... Even better if I do not.

[dsponder]

if you have a cut off wheel that will make it a breeze

[TIGERZ]

Make sure to take good measurements. You need to make sure you have enough room between the speaker and when the window rolls down.

I got mine at best buy and they work great, i forget the specs. Just make sure to measure everything thoroughly. You can always cut bigger never smaller.

[justind]

I have alpine 6.5's in my vette that I really like... Just don't think I want to spend near 200 bucks for truck speakers.

[wickedss]

did you guys have to put anything between the door panel and door for the speakers to mount correctly?

[justind]

I would guess that to do this correctly and get the best sound possible, a thin mdf ring would have to be made to get the speaker mounted rigid to the door.

[remist17]

thanks for the photos I have some ideas now.

[xxEMOxx]

I would guess that to do this correctly and get the best sound possible, a thin mdf ring would have to be made to get the speaker mounted rigid to the door.

A thin MDF baffle about 1/2 thick is a good idea, it provided need stability/rigidity that the door panel alone cannot provide.

[TIGERZ]

i mounted mine right to the panel itself

i've had them that way for over a year with no problems.

I do plan on upgrading some time in the near future with some alpine type Rs and a better amp, which then ill do it correctly.

[xxEMOxx]

Tigerz, if you are in the market for some new components there are some other really great ones out there in the price range of the Alpine type R's.

I have heard the Type R's and they are nice, but for the $$$$ there are some that are pretty damn good.

[aheinzler93]

just wondering what anyone thought about putting 6x9's in the place of the rear 4x6's ? or bad ?

[BOTMAN]

Bad, waste of money. You don't need rear speakers at all. Would be better off spending that money on front speakers, amp, and deadening.

[supjim12]

I figure I would throw this in this thread as opposed to starting a new one. How do I get the rear speakers out of an extended cab?

[BOTMAN]

carefully remove all the interior pieces, starting with your back seat, your seat belts, the bottom panels, then the top ones. The bottom panels are the only ones that have screws holding them in. There are two at the bottom and two under the arm rest IIRC. The rest are held on with clips that like to break.

[sholmblad]

i mounted mine right to the panel itself

i've had them that way for over a year with no problems.

I do plan on upgrading some time in the near future with some alpine type Rs and a better amp, which then ill do it correctly.

Read everything this guy said, hands down the best advice. put in door speakers pretty much the same way. A good set of door sepakers even a good coax will be far better than going through the hassle some 4X6 replacements.

And yes, doesn't matter how careful you are there you'll break some of that trim (get the hot glue ready if you attempt it)! LOL

[chevyman98]

yea i was gonna replace the back speakers in my 98 ext cab but after my friend and i attempted on his 97 ext cab i dont want to break my pannels. just gonna replace the 6 1/2's in the doors with infinitys

[remist17]

I am not sure of my skills of cutting into the door panel and door. Worse case for me is I need to crazy glue the tabs on I guess if I try and do the backs.

[TIGERZ]

I am not sure of my skills of cutting into the door panel and door. Worse case for me is I need to crazy glue the tabs on I guess if I try and do the backs.


I was a total newb as well. I was REALLY scared i was gonna mess it up and i was gonna trash my beautiful door panels. Just take your time, go slow, and you'll do fine.



Here are the ones that i used
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012K005C

They have a mounting depth of 2.5" and i have zero problems with clearance. So you can shop around for speakers with a similar mounting depth. They sound great for the price. I read reviews that compare these to $200-$300 ones. They originally went for about $150 at best buy, then best buy clearanced them out for $100. Now you can get them for $90 with shipping from amazon. I'm running a crappy $60 Dual amp from best buy and these things still sound great.




Theres actually a serrated ring that you can cut out from the box that you can use for your measurements. I popped the ring off then used a highlighter marker (washable) to trace the ring onto the door panel, then used tin snips to cut the panel.

Once you have the hole cut to the correct size, double check it with the speaker, then mount the panel to the door. From there you can use a screwdriver or marker of some kind to trace the hole from the panel onto the sheet metal.

Take the door panel off and use a cutting wheel or tin snips to trim the sheet metal. If you have power locks and windows be careful not to cut the wiring harness. I had to cut some of the zip ties for the harness to get in out of the way of my speaker.

Repeat same step for tweeters if applicable.

If you're not using an mdf baffle ring to mount the speakers to, i STRONGLY advise making a quick trip to Ace and picking up some nuts, bolts, and washers. When i originally installed the speakers, i just used the screws that came with them and screwed them into the material on the panel and it worked ok. I recently replaced them with screws and a nut and washer, and it was a night and day difference. I got a much better seal and a lot more bass.


Run your wiring through the existing harness in the door for a nice clean look, then wire it up to your amplifier.

Thats it.

[remist17]

I was a total newb as well. I was REALLY scared i was gonna mess it up and i was gonna trash my beautiful door panels. Just take your time, go slow, and you'll do fine.



Here are the ones that i used
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012K005C

They have a mounting depth of 2.5" and i have zero problems with clearance. So you can shop around for speakers with a similar mounting depth. They sound great for the price. I read reviews that compare these to $200-$300 ones. They originally went for about $150 at best buy, then best buy clearanced them out for $100. Now you can get them for $90 with shipping from amazon. I'm running a crappy $60 Dual amp from best buy and these things still sound great.




Theres actually a serrated ring that you can cut out from the box that you can use for your measurements. I popped the ring off then used a highlighter marker (washable) to trace the ring onto the door panel, then used tin snips to cut the panel.

Once you have the hole cut to the correct size, double check it with the speaker, then mount the panel to the door. From there you can use a screwdriver or marker of some kind to trace the hole from the panel onto the sheet metal.

Take the door panel off and use a cutting wheel or tin snips to trim the sheet metal. If you have power locks and windows be careful not to cut the wiring harness. I had to cut some of the zip ties for the harness to get in out of the way of my speaker.

Repeat same step for tweeters if applicable.

If you're not using an mdf baffle ring to mount the speakers to, i STRONGLY advise making a quick trip to Ace and picking up some nuts, bolts, and washers. When i originally installed the speakers, i just used the screws that came with them and screwed them into the material on the panel and it worked ok. I recently replaced them with screws and a nut and washer, and it was a night and day difference. I got a much better seal and a lot more bass.


Run your wiring through the existing harness in the door for a nice clean look, then wire it up to your amplifier.

Thats it.

thanks for the explanation