Setting a goal...

[NotTyler]

I have a 2000 rcsb silverado w/ a 5.3 and no performance mods....yet. It is lowered 2/4 and has 20's. My goal is to run a 12.99 on the 1/4th mile. My question is what would be the least expensive way to go. I can install everything myself, but im starting from scratch. I would like to avoid a turbo or s/c, but will consider nitrous. If you would like to flame me be my guest. If not, any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Tyler

http://i45.tinypic.com/ayltua.jpg

[zraffz]

Cheapest way is two stages, 100 first stage and 150 second stage. It will ultimately be the most expensive in the long run though lol.

I'd go with the heads and cam out of a LS7? (One of the newer LS motors is interchangeable with the 5.3 and 6.0) That wouldn't be enough but it will get you a hell of a lot closer. Then you need new injectors and throttle body?

[JoshTheCanadian]

8.1

[StreetFreak]

4.10 Gears, Drag radials/slicks, 3600rpm stall, big cam, and spray the hell outta it.

[NotTyler]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is a conservative setup when it comes to nitrous. I'd hate to blow it up, considering it is my dd. Also i forgot to mention that it is straight piped from the cats back.

[StreetFreak]

I think with a fairly healthy cam and a 100hp wet kit will get the job done. Poke around on performancetrucks.net and you will get a better idea of what you will need.

[custm2500]

I think with a fairly healthy cam and a 100hp wet kit will get the job done. Poke around on performancetrucks.net and you will get a better idea of what you will need.

This will not get you close.

To give you an idea I have a 6.0, 2800 stall, 100 shot of juice, and run 13.4. Your truck is maybe a bit lighter but not much. There are plenty of ways to go about it. I would say a fairly simple way would be.
3000 is stall
150 shot of nitrous
and that might get you close.
I would say you will need some help to get the 12.99 but you do that set up and you will see how much further you have to go.

On a stock V-8 you can spray 150 with almost no concern. You can push the limit and run 200 and that is what it would probably take to get that thing into he 12s. Again other ways but this is the easiest. If you cam, full exhaust, and CAI you should be able to do it with the 150 shot.

[Justin_Inc]

its not too hard of a feat, but will take some work to get to. first off, lose the 20's.


- 4.10 or 4.30 gears with a detroit true track out in the rear
- A good set of slicks (keeping them around 28" tall)
- A set of Cal-Traks, and setting up the driveline angles is a must.
- A TR230/236 camshaft, hardened pushrods is a must. as with appropriate valve springs.
- Fully ported/polished heads with a good 3angle valve job
- Long tube headers and good dual 3" exhaust system (no flowmaster mufflers here)
- 3600-3800RPM Torque converter minimum
- Fast 90MM intake and a FAST 90MM throttle body
- a GOOD tune, not some mail order thing but a tune by someone that knows these engines/trucks inside and out.
- Of course some transmission work, a 4l60e will need at a minimum, billet servos and a Transgo HD-2 kit to live.

That'll get you there with no nitrous, you'll be shifting it around 7000rpm.

add a 150 shot and you'll be running high 11's all day

[proskreet]

its not too hard of a feat, but will take some work to get to. first off, lose the 20's.


- 4.10 or 4.30 gears with a detroit true track out in the rear
- A good set of slicks (keeping them around 28" tall)
- A set of Cal-Traks, and setting up the driveline angles is a must.
- A TR230/236 camshaft, hardened pushrods is a must.
- Fully ported/polished heads with a good 3angle valve job
- Long tube headers and good dual 3" exhaust system (no flowmaster mufflers here)
- 3600-3800RPM Torque converter minimum
- Fast 90MM intake and a FAST 90MM throttle body
- a GOOD tune, not some mail order thing but a tune by someone that knows these engines/trucks inside and out.
- Of course some transmission work, a 4l60e will need at a minimum, billet servos and a Transgo HD-2 kit to live.

That'll get you there with no nitrous, you'll be shifting it around 7000rpm.

add a 150 shot and you'll be touching high 11's all day


x's 2

[custm2500]

This plan will work but you better have some cash to drop!Looking at over 5 grand for all of that. And that is if you install it all yourself..
Quick run down in case someone wants to dispute.
gears and locker $400-$600
Slicks used will cost $250 and $400 if new
Cal tracks are a couple hundred
head work will be $300-$400 or better
headers and custom exhaust will be $500 ore more. Ebay headers might save you some but not much
converter will be $1000-$1500 being that high of stall. since he want to DD he will go with a lower converter
90/90 will be $1200 or more
Custom in person tune will be $250-$300
And if he redoes the trans you can have $2500 or more in that alone.

Again this is a nice plan and should net you 12s with out a doubt but VERY costly!!!!

[Justin_Inc]

This plan will work but you better have some cash to drop!Looking at over 5 grand for all of that. And that is if you install it all yourself..
Quick run down in case someone wants to dispute.
gears and locker $400-$600
Slicks used will cost $250 and $400 if new
Cal tracks are a couple hundred
head work will be $300-$400 or better
headers and custom exhaust will be $500 ore more. Ebay headers might save you some but not much
converter will be $1000-$1500 being that high of stall. since he want to DD he will go with a lower converter
90/90 will be $1200 or more
Custom in person tune will be $250-$300
And if he redoes the trans you can have $2500 or more in that alone.

Again this is a nice plan and should net you 12s with out a doubt but VERY costly!!!!

costly, but a bullet proof setup, add up what it costs in the nitrous system + all of the accessories + all of the small odds and ends, then the bottle refills over a year and tell me its a great investment, not to mention, one failed part, one mistake on your behalf and the risk of the big kaboom, which one is honestly more worth it?

I've played in all rolls before, nitrous, forced indution and N/A. trust me, each of them are costly, and each of them have they're drawbacks.

a 36-3800rpm converter is not all that bad to drive daily, you are not going to tow with it, but it'll last just fine, make sure you have a good trans cooler, and use a high quality transmission fluid (in applications like this i usually use Case IH Hy-tran for transmission fluid, cooler temps, better shifts, longer clutch/band life).

[whitelightnin92]

throw the 20s in the garbage to start.

[oneloudz71]

Question for you...seeing as how this is your DD and you don't want to blow it up, why would you consider nitrous but not forced induction? If it was my DD I would be wanting to build something that would stay together, not blow up.

[custm2500]

costly, but a bullet proof setup, add up what it costs in the nitrous system + all of the accessories + all of the small odds and ends, then the bottle refills over a year and tell me its a great investment, not to mention, one failed part, one mistake on your behalf and the risk of the big kaboom, which one is honestly more worth it?


Nitrous system with window switch. Under $500
Converter in th 3000 range $1000
$30-$45 a bottle x 10 for a year
less than $2000

If the simple goal is quick 1/4 times then nitrous is the way to go. If you want the power all the time then the for mentioned plan is far superior.

I am not against the full bolt on plan at all but make it clear they aren't cheep at all. There are tons of advantages mainly being having power all the time and not just when you turn it on. Disadvantage is you will probably kill fuel mileage with such a radical set up you will want to stomp the skinny pedal all the time.

Just helping you look at both sides.

A meet in the middle would be some of the bolt ons and then add 100 shot on top of that. Gets you a good deal of N/A power and gives you a good chance of hitting you goal at the track.

[NotTyler]

throw the 20s in the garbage to start.

This is happening now, but what wheel/tire combo would you recommend. For tires I read that a Nitto 555r or something like that is a good street/strip tire.

[NotTyler]

Question for you...seeing as how this is your DD and you don't want to blow it up, why would you consider nitrous but not forced induction? If it was my DD I would be wanting to build something that would stay together, not blow up.

To be honest, I just can't afford FI. I'd love to do it, don't get me wrong. But i have heard a 100 wet shot is pretty safe on these engines? Am i wrong?


Nitrous system with window switch. Under $500
Converter in th 3000 range $1000
$30-$45 a bottle x 10 for a year
less than $2000

If the simple goal is quick 1/4 times then nitrous is the way to go. If you want the power all the time then the for mentioned plan is far superior.

I am not against the full bolt on plan at all but make it clear they aren't cheep at all. There are tons of advantages mainly being having power all the time and not just when you turn it on. Disadvantage is you will probably kill fuel mileage with such a radical set up you will want to stomp the skinny pedal all the time.

Just helping you look at both sides.

A meet in the middle would be some of the bolt ons and then add 100 shot on top of that. Gets you a good deal of N/A power and gives you a good chance of hitting you goal at the track.

I was thinking to start off with new wheels and tires, a nice cam, exhaust, 100 shot, and tune from blackbearperformance.

[osolow]

its not too hard of a feat, but will take some work to get to. first off, lose the 20's.


- 4.10 or 4.30 gears with a detroit true track out in the rear
- A good set of slicks (keeping them around 28" tall)
- A set of Cal-Traks, and setting up the driveline angles is a must.
- A TR230/236 camshaft, hardened pushrods is a must. as with appropriate valve springs.
- Fully ported/polished heads with a good 3angle valve job
- Long tube headers and good dual 3" exhaust system (no flowmaster mufflers here)
- 3600-3800RPM Torque converter minimum
- Fast 90MM intake and a FAST 90MM throttle body
- a GOOD tune, not some mail order thing but a tune by someone that knows these engines/trucks inside and out.
- Of course some transmission work, a 4l60e will need at a minimum, billet servos and a Transgo HD-2 kit to live.

That'll get you there with no nitrous, you'll be shifting it around 7000rpm.

add a 150 shot and you'll be running high 11's all day

this would do it.

[StreetFreak]

I'm going to go against a 150 shot, I've seen a few lsx motors grenade on a 150 shot. A 100hp wet kit will be plenty enough power. The right combo instead of just buying a ton of parts will get you into the 12s easily without spending a ton of cash.

[rebelbowtie]

its not too hard of a feat, but will take some work to get to. first off, lose the 20's.


- 4.10 or 4.30 gears with a detroit true track out in the rear
- A good set of slicks (keeping them around 28" tall)
- A set of Cal-Traks, and setting up the driveline angles is a must.
- A TR230/236 camshaft, hardened pushrods is a must. as with appropriate valve springs.
- Fully ported/polished heads with a good 3angle valve job
- Long tube headers and good dual 3" exhaust system (no flowmaster mufflers here)
- 3600-3800RPM Torque converter minimum
- Fast 90MM intake and a FAST 90MM throttle body
- a GOOD tune, not some mail order thing but a tune by someone that knows these engines/trucks inside and out.
- Of course some transmission work, a 4l60e will need at a minimum, billet servos and a Transgo HD-2 kit to live.

That'll get you there with no nitrous, you'll be shifting it around 7000rpm.

add a 150 shot and you'll be running high 11's all day

this :read:


except a cable tune will be better for street ability. Dyno tunes unless its a load bearing dyno will only help tune WOT and thats no good unless youre only making 1/4 mile runs.

[StreetFreak]

Heres my list of what you will need. We run a similar setup in my buddies truck and it hauls ass. The only thing I do not know is the cam specs but it is a pretty healthy cam.

3600 converter
4.10 gears w/ minispool
28x10.5 slicks
100 wet shot
long tube headers w/ cutout
dyno tune
home made traction bars
open throttle body and maf

[jkalwei]

I have a 5.3 swapped 94 rcsb, I have the cheapest route because i have done it and to top it off i did it on 22s lol. It consist of 100 shot,headers and y pipe tb stall,stock ls1 cam,3.73 gears,air intake made by me,ported tb by me, and tuned by me. It went 12.98 at 109. Now i have a 224,230 581,592 cam, 3800 stall,mt drag radials on 15s,and a 150 shot dont be affraid i have sprayed probly 15 bottles through it at the 150 shot. lol i am hopping break in to the 11s on the 100 and maybe 11.6 on the 150. Any questions let me know. Justin

[Zero260]

Question for you...seeing as how this is your DD and you don't want to blow it up, why would you consider nitrous but not forced induction? If it was my DD I would be wanting to build something that would stay together, not blow up.

X's 2. I wouldn't sweat 1/4 mi times. I'd look for a rwhp goal. Big cams and stalls don't usually have good street manners. Some people drive them daily and like it, most people don't. Nitrous isn't constant power. On top of that, the 60e is not going to hold up to dead hooks off the line. That said, you'll probably want to look into a 4l80e swap. A 60e can be built pretty stout, but they usually don't hold up in trucks, like they do in fbodies.

Nothing wrong with 20s. Id run them. I wouldn't go with 4.10s either. I'm keeping my 3.42s in my '03 rcsb, and plan on running 20s. Hooking up in a pickup is hard enough.

Look into an s/c. Plenty of options, new and used. Run the 60e til it blows, swap in an 80e.

[NotTyler]

Thanks for the advice guys, but I have now decided to do a 6.0 swap.