View Full Version : top for a work bench?
Sleeper_6
12-22-2010, 04:10 PM
Hey guys, quick question for ya....
I am going to build a nice "sturdy" work bench. I have it all planned out except for the top. My question is, the top dimensions of the table are going to be 3ft x 6ft I plan on a support running the length of the bench and then half-lapping supports every 18in for the width. so can I get away with a single sheet of 3/4in of plywood or should I use 1in or maybe even 3/4in with a 1/2in glued and screwed together?
is this over-kill? suggestions wanted.
Caseys71
12-23-2010, 05:25 PM
3/4" Plywood should be plenty thick, but if you plan on doing a lot of heavy projects on top of it then laminating a 3/4" sheet and 1/2" sheet would give you some added assurance, that or you could close in the spacing on the supports and it would be just as strong and probably cheaper than buying two sheets of plywood.
Sleeper_6
12-23-2010, 07:25 PM
I figure half-lapping one 2by the length of it then a 2by every 12in on center over the width of it. the 3/4ply will work just fine.
It prolly wont see anything Heavier then me and a buddy standing on it as an improvised scaffold.
Thanks for the reply
fon1961
12-26-2010, 11:47 AM
I used 3, 2 x 10's side by side for my top that went the full length of the bench (and 1 for a "back splash"). Legs are 4 x 4's. Lap jointed a 2 x 4 frame around the top and middle of the legs. Scabbed in 2 x 4 cross supports where it made sense. Used some scrap plywood to make a middle shelf. The bench is very sturdy. Think I'll put a sheet of 1/2" plywood on half for jobs that warrant a gap free, smooth, replaceable surface.
addiction2bass
12-26-2010, 12:27 PM
also depends if your gonna be hammering anything on the tables top. if your gonna be beating on stuff ontop of the table then go for overkill and brace the center of the table from the top to the bottom floor as well so it cannt flex or sag at all in the center when your beating on the table.
Sleeper_6
12-26-2010, 02:52 PM
I will post pics of the build, I think it will be very similar to yours Fon1961.
Addiction, I had planned for something like that, I am actually now going to add a provision for my mitre saw. there will be supports in the center because of that. I think it will turn out to be pretty damn sweet.
fon1961
12-26-2010, 05:17 PM
sounds good, if you lap joint those 4 x 4's top & middle and put the cross pieces (dividing the overall bench length in qtrs) I don't believe that it will sag. particularly with 2 x 10's making up the top. i think that my work bench is approximately 7 ft long. i would've preferred 8 ft but was utilizing reclaimed 7 ft 2 x 10's. there are 4 x 4 legs at each corner as well as two in the middle front and back. look fwd to seeing the pic's when you're through.
Sleeper_6
12-26-2010, 10:40 PM
I wont have a 2by top, just the plywood.
thanks for the advice ya'll
Exalted512
01-03-2011, 12:44 PM
The top of mine is MDF, with 1/8" hardboard on top. I just used some heavy duty double stick tape to 'glue' it on. Plenty sturdy, and cheap to replace if the top (masonite) gets messed up.
-Cody
jmack91z28
01-10-2011, 12:14 PM
I just used two sheets of OSB screwed together, plenty strong and I won't be worried if it gets beat up or oil gets on it. $6 for a sheet, ripped it in half and stacked them for a 2' x 8' work bench top.
The shelf underneath is just one sheet of OSB and i've got 4 cylinder heads and a few intakes laying on it no problem at all.
I was gonna recommend MDF like cody said, cheap, strong, good laminate cover on it too... just depends on the budget and how picky you are on looks.
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