follow me through my 700r4 build. this time building it myself!

[whitelightnin92]

today i went to my parents and picked up my old 700r4, brought it home and pulled the servo assembly out pulled the pan off and took the wiring out of it and pulled the tv cable off. gotta pick up some rags and brake clean. im going to need you guys to help me identify some of these parts because this trans was previously built by someone else. i will have pics tomorrow. going to pull the valve body and front pump off tomorrow

[NEUMANNZZ]

sounds like fun, cant wait for pics.

[helo]

Well, you have an active audience. I just bought a spare/working 700r4 ($125) to rebuild and eventually swap with mine.

I swapped valve bodies today (last thing to try besides dropping tranny to fix my TCC lockup). I also did transgo Jr.

[hammer137]

I built my 700R4 myself as well, tedious but well worth the experience. Let me know if you need any part recommendations, will be following :P

[transbuilderguy]

gotcha covered

[whitelightnin92]

thanks for the support guys!

[whitelightnin92]

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0383.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0387.jpg
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http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0400.jpg

[whitelightnin92]

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0401.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0402.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0403.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0404.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0405.jpg
marked yellow where all the checkballs go

[whitelightnin92]

trying to get the pump off now

[transbuilderguy]

you can pry the pump up with a larg screwdriver inbetween the reverse drum and the pump body.

[whitelightnin92]

yep got the pump. i had to grab the top of it with vice grips and yank one good time. came right off. found the problem. uploading pics now

[whitelightnin92]

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0406.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0408.jpg
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[whitelightnin92]

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0418.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0419.jpg
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http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0426.jpg

[whitelightnin92]

carnage found here
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0430.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0431.jpg
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http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0440.jpg

[whitelightnin92]

planetaries appear to be in good shape, but i cannot figure out how the heck they come out

[transbuilderguy]

yep cracked pistons will do it everytime.....I suggest getting the steel molded pistons from a late model 4l60e I you will also need to get the return spring cages also for the 3-4 return and the forward as it is different for the steel pistons.

[whitelightnin92]

is there a snap ring under the sun gear?

[whitelightnin92]

i have a performabuilt 60E trans that im going to take all that out of i think.

[transbuilderguy]

yes there is it holds the output shaft in

[whitelightnin92]

does it take a special tool. it looks wierd

[Fast305]

does it take a special tool. it looks wierd

No special tools other than a pair of snap ring pliers....Just some cussing, patience, and finess to get it. Oh and usually a few skinned knuckles the first time you do it in a while.:naughty: Output shaft snap ring is a pain in the @$$. The case snap ring and spring also suck.

[whitelightnin92]

awesome maybe i will get some snap ring pliers from my dad tomorrow. i took this whole thing apart with a screwdriver vice grips one open end wrench and a ratchet. lol

ok should i get a yank2600 or a patc 2600. the yank will cost me $180 more. is it really worth it? i find it hard to spend 475 on a converter

[hammer137]

I'm probably going to get some arguments here but I'm using an AllStar Performance 24-2800 stall part # ALL26912. These converters are lock-up converters and seem to be very good quality for the price. I've sold many and had nothing but good luck with them. I'm using one in my C10 and with 430ft lbs of torque it actually stalls around 3200rpm. I can't complain for a $280 lock-up converter.

[whitelightnin92]

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0442.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0444.jpg
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http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0456.jpg

[whitelightnin92]

any need for further dissasembly?

[transbuilderguy]

yes ther are three seals under the low reverse piston however it requires a special compressor for the return spring. however from the look of the clutches it appears to be applying good. if you dont have the tool or wanna buy it I say let it fly. the tool is only around 40 bucks though.

[whitelightnin92]

so theres no other way to remove it?

[transbuilderguy]

yeah you can remove it have fun getting it back in lol...

[transbuilderguy]

http://atec-trans-tool.com/t-0151-gm-rearclutchspringcompressor.aspx
here is the tool you need it looks similar to the one for the input drum but its a bit bigger

[whitelightnin92]

ok thanks for the link. i may just take the case with me to college in the AM and use their compressor tool.

looks like i could make that tool at work possibly

[whitelightnin92]

hey if you think it looks good then i wont remove it. i dont need to create any extra work for myself.

[whitelightnin92]

last night i ordered

high pressure tv spring, regulator spring
larger low/reverse boost valve and .500 main boost valve
brown 1-2 accumulator spring
vette governor
patc Alto red eagle master rebuild kit
carbon composite wide band (im using the drum from my other trans with a wide band
transgo separator plate

[whitelightnin92]

i still have more parts to order yet. so if anyone suggests what else to order im open to suggestions.

im installing the vette servo and sonnax dual piston 4th servo from my other trans plus the beast sunshell and forward piston off of it

[transbuilderguy]

if the wide band is burnt on the outer edges get a new drum and band.

[whitelightnin92]

if the wide band is burnt on the outer edges get a new drum and band.

will do. question, do i need to rebuild the front pump or can i skip that? i was just going to put the high pressure spring in and leave it be. but if ineed to rebuild it i will

[transbuilderguy]

iwould take it apart and inspect it at minimum you nver know.

[whitelightnin92]

yeah i will do that. hopefully all is good. if not i have the pump from my 4l60E. will they interchange?

[transbuilderguy]

no the pumps are different

[whitelightnin92]

ahhwell we will see how it goes

[transbuilderguy]

when you get to that point i will PM you some specs and stuff like that on setup to make it last and shift right, not gonnna put my lifes work in public but I will help you out.

[PBA]

When you get ready to install the TransGo Junior I can give you the specs to change it to a Heavy Duty setup, very easy. This kit will give you smooth part throttle shifts and quick WOT shifts. DO NOT use the Alto Red or Commercial clutch pack here in the 3-4 clutch setup. The factory Hi-Energy clutches are the best, you just need more of them. If one of reverse/input drums is in good shape, in other words where the band rides it is flat, then install a Borg Warner Hi-Energy band. You do not need the wide band here, that way you will save quite a bit of money. The Hi-E will give you the best quality shifts when compared to other band materials. They will hold over 700 horsepower, so you will be fine with this. Having torn down many hundreds of the 700R4's, this is the first that I have seen break the forward aluminum piston. In the 4L60E's I have seen this quite a few times, but that is because of line pressure "spiking", which does not happen in the 700R4's. Adding the Corvette governor will change the 1-2 WOT shift the most, the 2-3 shift less, and the 3-4 even less yet. The stock V8 governor that you have will give you apx. 5,000 rpm +/- 200 rpm WOT shifts. What rpm are you wanting it to shift at on its own at WOT? One last (very important) thing is to install the Viton input to output seal in the input drum, not the Pink or White plastic seal that comes in all the paper and rubber kits for the 700R4. They are in all 4L60E's paper and rubber kits, but they can be bought separately. If you cannot locate one let me know, as I carry these. Dana

[whitelightnin92]

when you get to that point i will PM you some specs and stuff like that on setup to make it last and shift right, not gonnna put my lifes work in public but I will help you out.

thanks i really appreciate the help

[whitelightnin92]

5600 in 1-2 and 2-3 seems to be the perfect rpm for my shifts. when i had the trans in it before it shifted at like 4800

[whitelightnin92]

i broke the piston when i was trying to powerbrake my truck and forgot it was in 4wd. didnt work out too well.. drove it like six months like that too

[whitelightnin92]

pulling the 4l60E out this weekend. woohoo!

[whitelightnin92]

well i pulled the 4l60E out of the truck and i wasnt happy with what i found. i think my trans failures were directly related to the builder. i found clutch steels that were resurfaced with some sort of grinder instead of using new ones. they were warped to hell. i found a stock sunshell(it supposed to have the beast). the trans appeared to be a stock unit other than having a wide band and vette servo. i havnt looked into it very deep but im not happy about the steels . oh and the separator plate was ground on aswell. a new ones like 20 bucks wtf

[transbuilderguy]

as far as sanding steels some builders do that not really to clean them up as beeing used lol but for friction and to hold a little oil in the steels......now they should have been new steels. the sep plate well yeah thats kinda on the cheap side.

[transbuilderguy]

btw the pic you sent me was a superior super servo not a vette servo.

[whitelightnin92]

btw the pic you sent me was a superior super servo not a vette servo.

oh ok. so why do i have so much problem with it holding it 3-4th? i take it the super servo is a step above the vette servo?

and the trans was supposed to have a vette servo and 4th sonnax dual piston servo

[whitelightnin92]

and why a stock sunshell?

[whitelightnin92]

sorry i cleared my inbox

[whitelightnin92]

im wondering about what mods i need to do to the VB and why. i havnt bought the transgo kit yet because i wasnt shure i really needed it. my reasoning is i know it has some sort of shift kit already because the last guy that built it put one in it and said "you wont burn up 3-4 this time" and it shifted super firm in 2-3 3-4. but kinda mushy in second. it didnt burn up 3-4 either the clutches looked decent. i have bought larger boost valves for the pump. and heavier PR spring. so that will help alot. and i have the servos from my 60E to take care of my 1-2 shift. also a stronger 1-2 acc spring. now.... do i really need the transgo shift kit and why?

[transbuilderguy]

looked at the pics and you do have the sonnax 4th servo...as far as shell I didnt see a pic of that I dont think. but if it was supposed to have it which all my units get it then that was ****ty......on your 700r4 as far as burning 3-4 I would look at the #7 checkball and capsule leaking also the check valve in the back of the drum I wouls also make sure that the TV system is working right.....if second was mushy you may have had a servo leak which the servo also acts as the accumualtor for third if you had a leak in the servo it could cause low line to the 3-4...I would check those things.

[whitelightnin92]

looked at the pics and you do have the sonnax 4th servo...as far as shell I didnt see a pic of that I dont think. but if it was supposed to have it which all my units get it then that was ****ty......on your 700r4 as far as burning 3-4 I would look at the #7 checkball and capsule leaking also the check valve in the back of the drum I wouls also make sure that the TV system is working right.....if second was mushy you may have had a servo leak which the servo also acts as the accumualtor for third if you had a leak in the servo it could cause low line to the 3-4...I would check those things.

never had a problem with 3-4 on the 700 after rebuild just second. but i had major 3-4 problems with the 4l60E.

[transbuilderguy]

ok lol I am getting confused between the 2 units lol. Yes iam kinda dissapointed in the other unit knowing the shop that did the work. I have said this many times trans work is the shadiest business out there there are very few in this business who are honest.

[whitelightnin92]

ok lol I am getting confused between the 2 units lol. Yes iam kinda dissapointed in the other unit knowing the shop that did the work. I have said this many times trans work is the shadiest business out there there are very few in this business who are honest.

yeah i keep forgetting you know him. live and learn i guess. i cant get that money back. i just find it hard to understand why he didnt build it right the second,third,4th,or 5th time after he figured out it wouldnt hold up that way. it was costing both of us money. why not do it right and be done.

[RednckChevy]

unfortunatley shops are shaddy and dishonest that way..My last car which was a 2k Neon with the 3 speed auto went out at 140,00,took it to what i was told the best shop in the entire region where i lived at the time. Had it rebuilt and they figured since the car was lowered with z rated tires,spoiler and mild mods to the engine that i raced and installed a high performance shift kit,didnt mind cause i liked the way it shifted..Well 14,000 miles later it went out again,would not shift out of 1st. Because of there assumption of me racing they would not warranty it so another 1700 bucks gone. 1 year later at 20,000 miles same thing happened..i had just moved up to Washington from cali. Took it to a highly recomended builder and was told that 90% of the parts in the trans were still the original and only cleaned(steels,bands,some clutches). the guy cut me a deal and only paid 800 and also helped me file a suit against the other shop where we found many many people had the same issues with that shop. needless to say i was refunded all my money and the shop was closed by the state for unfair business practices..i was told many shops do that cause 99% of customers will never open the trans and usually the car is sold later down the road..Side note I put well over 200,000 miles on the last trans before i sold it for my truck last year

[transbuilderguy]

yeah i keep forgetting you know him. live and learn i guess. i cant get that money back. i just find it hard to understand why he didnt build it right the second,third,4th,or 5th time after he figured out it wouldnt hold up that way. it was costing both of us money. why not do it right and be done.
I dont actually know the builders I know Frank who does the sales and tech support we are personal freinds Iam going to speak to him tonight about this and show him the pics of what I seen. Frank actually lives here in fl in Miami he does this remotley so he doesnt see what goes on in the shop. I dont know that I can do anything for you in particular but I would have to say this isnt right if it was supposed to have said parts in it but didnt.

[whitelightnin92]

I dont actually know the builders I know Frank who does the sales and tech support we are personal freinds Iam going to speak to him tonight about this and show him the pics of what I seen. Frank actually lives here in fl in Miami he does this remotley so he doesnt see what goes on in the shop. I dont know that I can do anything for you in particular but I would have to say this isnt right if it was supposed to have said parts in it but didnt.

thanks, i appreciate it

[transbuilderguy]

PM me a transaction number and what the build was supposed to be as well as customer number anything like that and I will talk to him about it also send me a pic of what shell was in it. and the washer thats under it that sits on the low roller inner race. for the time being dont do anything with the parts

[NEUMANNZZ]

And the plot thickens.

[whitelightnin92]

sorry i was looking at the wrong shell. i got them mixed up when i was separating all the parts. it did have the beast shell. still, this unit wasnt very beastly lol

[whitelightnin92]

your not a half bad guy transbuilderguy lol.

[transbuilderguy]

And the plot thickens.
lol

[transbuilderguy]

And the plot thickens.
lol i believe right is right and wrong is wrong freinds or not

[transbuilderguy]

well lets stop dwelling on the bad and lets try to get your trans working right you seem like you have the basic knowledge to do this so I am sure we can get you fixed up and on the road.

[whitelightnin92]

lets do it lol

[whitelightnin92]

ok, i havnt gotten an answer on the transgo shift kit yet. do i need the kit and if so wich kit do i need the jr kit or the 2-3 kit. i mean i had no complaints with the way it shifted in 3-4, i just wanted a little better 1-2 shift. and with the wide band and servos i think we can take care of that.

second thing, how long do i need to soak the clutches in ATF before install.

third thing is with my transgo clutch spring kit. im not shure what springs to install and how many. i take it heavier springs and more of them is better because it keeps the clutches from applying when theyre not supposed to? or do i have this all wrong? lol and whats with that orifice that came with the kit. what exactly does that little puppy do. lotsa good questions here.

[transbuilderguy]

as far as springs you really dont need those unlesss you are constantly seeing 6500rpms all the time. they are to prevent centrifugal apply of the clutches. soak the clutches for about 20 mins is enough. I will let PBA talk about th shift kit as he is probably more expereinced than I on that kit I dont use it I use the superior kits in the 700s. the transgo kit gives me a headache.

[whitelightnin92]

superior is fine with me. im just wondering why i need the kit. what exactly is its purpose

[whitelightnin92]

installed the output shaft/ clutches and rear planetaries before work today. i had a problem getting the retaining ring in for the clutches and found that squash plate has to be in there just right. hopefully can finish this thing tomorrow. atleast the internals anyway

[transbuilderguy]

Did you out the anticlunck spring inbetween the case and the low support. MAKE SURE TO AIRTEST IT ONCE YOU GET THE SNAP RING IN THE PORT IS RIGHT BY THE PORT WITH THE CHECKBALL IN THE CASE AT THE BOTTOM.

[whitelightnin92]

Did you out the anticlunck spring inbetween the case and the low support. MAKE SURE TO AIRTEST IT ONCE YOU GET THE SNAP RING IN THE PORT IS RIGHT BY THE PORT WITH THE CHECKBALL IN THE CASE AT THE BOTTOM.

i used the metal retainer from the 4l60E. and what exactly do i airtest?

[whitelightnin92]

custom spring compressor
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0485.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0486.jpg
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http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/700r4%20rebuild/SANY0508.jpg

[whitelightnin92]

as you can see i had to machine down the lower apply plate to get all the clutches to fit. i ended up taking it down from .223 to .193. this geve me a clearance of .042

in my book it says .060 to .090 and alto says .020 to .045 . so i say im close. is this an ok way to do it? i couldnt find any other combo to work out.

[whitelightnin92]

found the trans already had a .500 boost valve but not the low/reverse valve.
why is the notches in the old boost valve off center?

[transbuilderguy]

your 3-4 needs to be tighter. it needs to be around .020 they will feel tight and kinda scary but they will be ok you will lose .010 on break in .042 is too much clearnce for longevity tighten it up.

[whitelightnin92]

ok will do. is there anyway of figuring out about how much line pressure im going to be putting out. i got a high pressure spring for it as you can see in the pic. but i hear people saying they raised line pressure to whatever psi. how are they doing this and are they using a guage? just want to set the pump up right

also will any of these mods benefit me
http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p4.html

[whitelightnin92]

found this on thirdgen site.

many rebuilders have found, including myself, that increasing the size of the 3/4 release hole to .078" (I got this trick from a shift kit, so I must admit that shiftkits can be a "good thing" if the correct things are altered, for the right reasons), which tends to help the 3/4 clutches release during a 3rd to 2nd downshift, eliminating "bind up" in this condition, as well as replacing the servo accumulator check ball capsule (the capsule wears severely, and can be the CAUSE of 3/4 clutch failure, in many cases, and drilling the 3rd clutch apply hole to around .090", can all help make the 3/4 clutch failure a "thing of the past", in most cases.

[whitelightnin92]

no comments??

also i got clearance about .032-.033 i may try to tighten a little more. finding it hard to get the right combo of spacers

[whitelightnin92]

got clearance to .020 for the 3-4 clutch. taking the pump to scool today and using their alignment band

[whitelightnin92]

wow not much action in here this week. got the pump aligned.

[transbuilderguy]

you can use the case as an alignment tool turn the pump upside down without the pump seal have the bolts finger tight install the pump upside down and then tighten bolts to 18ft lbs. .020 is perfect clearnce

[whitelightnin92]

you can use the case as an alignment tool turn the pump upside down without the pump seal have the bolts finger tight install the pump upside down and then tighten bolts to 18ft lbs. .020 is perfect clearnce

i wouldve but it was just as easy to take it with me today and align it there. just gotta do the servos an button up the valve body. im trying to decide to shift kit or not and wich one.

[whitelightnin92]

i dont think im going to install a shift kit. i think im just going to drill 2nd and 3rd feed holes. can anyone show me where they are?

[transbuilderguy]

if your drilling the holes you are going to need to add a higher pressure pump spring

[whitelightnin92]

i installed one from patc. the elevated pressure spring

[whitelightnin92]

.

[whitelightnin92]

just had a long talk with dana at pba. he said with my combo i will probably get a bind up running the 3-4 clutches at .020 with a 700r4. he said you need to do it with the 4l60E because they have circuitry issues but you cant do that in the 700r4. i reccomend anyone to call this guy for advice. he knows ALOT about these things. he gave me a few separator plate tricks

[transbuilderguy]

yes he is right lol for some reason I keep ghetting confused on which unit your building lol.....on the 700 i usually run about .030

[whitelightnin92]

damn. so do i take this thing all apart again. its set at .020 he recommended a minimum of .035

[transbuilderguy]

IMO .020 is going to break into .030 ill bet the pack is already looser than .020 anyway. hit the clutch with about 150 psi one to 2 times and then remeasure. during break in you are easily going to loose .010 of clutch material while the clutches are seating in. the 20 wil be ok

[transbuilderguy]

the problem with this thread is 2 different builders are involved Dana is a great builder and he has his way of doing things as I have my way we both get the job done but duifferent ways however our different ways are getting you confused so I am going to step out of the thread because in your situation you only need to be listening to one person.

[whitelightnin92]

no need to step out. i like to hear all opinions(educated ones) and i will choose what i think is best. i dont doubt your or danas abilitys. now.. for the 3-4 pack. because i have the big servo and have increased the apply feeds in the seperator plate greatly i loosened up the 3-4 slightly just to be on the safe side. i dont want this thing to self destruct on the first drive. if i dont like 3-4 i will pull the trans again and tighten it up. now that ive done it, it wont take more than a weekend to pull it and tighten the pack.

[whitelightnin92]

just notice the 2nd accumulator was blocked in the 4l60e... thats why it always shifted hard into 2nd............hmm they could block second but didnt bother to block 4th? if anything they shouldve blocked 4th and left second alone.

[transbuilderguy]

I dont believe in blocking accumualtors on the 4l60e myself except for the 4th.

[whitelightnin92]

yeah thats stupid. one more strike against them..

[whitelightnin92]

got the trans all done. just saving up for a converter, prolly order it next week. gotta rewire the truck too. ive been worried the shift points will still be too low with the vette governor so before i installed it i drilled a couple little tiny holes in the weights. didnt take off much material but it should be a good starting point.

[whitelightnin92]

welps, got my converter (12" PATC 2600) and a temp guage the other day. just gotta finish putting the wiring harness in the truck and put the trans in. i hope i can get it done this weekend. mabe show a vid of the test drive.............. if it moves :lol:

[PBA]

For seating in the transmission, make sure the fluid level is correct then see if it will move in the OD shifter position, if it does then when you go for your drive manually upshift it through the gears at no more than 1/3 throttle. DO NOT down shift it, wait till you came to a complete halt, then start all over again till you have ten miles on it and be back at the garage by then and top off the fluid level again as it will use fluid getting the air out of everything. Check for any leaks, and address them if necessary. Now for the next ten miles drive it in the OD shifter position and no more than 1/2 throttle. Again check the fluid level at the 20 mile mark. If everything feels fine then the next ten miles drive it at 2/3 - 3/4 throttle occasionally, and if all feels good here, then after the thirty mile mark go make pass in it.

[whitelightnin92]

thanks. been busy so it isnt done yet but close. just gotta button it up. been going crazy with the wiring

[whitelightnin92]

help!! trans shifts and holds good in Reverse, 1st and 3rd but it shifts real soft into second and theres no overdrive. it doesnt even make an attempt to shift to OD. im going to guess and say i have the servo set wrong. i hope its simple i dont want to have to pull this thing back out.

[NEUMANNZZ]

something to do with the 2-4 band. check servo first.

[transbuilderguy]

check your servo seals and the position of the 4th servo piston the shallow side of the piston should go towards the trans. also what was the band clearnce.

[whitelightnin92]

i wasnt 100% shure how to set the band clearance so i just set it so it felt about the same as the old trans. didnt actually check it but i would say theres mabe .060 movement in the servo. im going to pull it back out and check. im thinking now i may have put that washer in the wrong spot.

YEP! i just found a diagram on the superior servo and washer goes on the opposite side of the retaining clip that i put it on. im 99% shure its on the other side.

[whitelightnin92]

ok one problem fixed, new problems now. i did find the servo was installed wrong so i pulled it out and moved the washers to the correct spot. took the truck down the road and shifted great but, still no 4th gear. i ran the truck up to about 85-90mph and whacked the throttle a few times and shifted to 4th manually and it went right in. i thought ok its fixed now, mustve had some trash in the valve body. drove it about 20 miles and decided to goahead and run it WOT. made a run and after i came to a stop i went to take off and noticed it was staying in 1st gear. so i went alittle faster and it shifted to second at like 30 mph and really hard and did the same thing going into 3rd really hard. and guess what. no overdrive again. it sounds like a TV issue or what?

[whitelightnin92]

has to be a stuck tv right? it shifted beautifull before. shifts were really fast and firm with no slipping or slamming BS.

[whitelightnin92]

i fixed the problem by pulling the tv cable really hard a few times. now i need some help with the governor. ive been removing weight from the inner weights and it doesnt seem to be affecting the 1-2 shift. 1-2 @4500 2-3@5000. both shifts need to go up but the 1-2 need to go up more than the 2-3. anyone know what part of the governor affects 1-2 the most?

[whitelightnin92]

i want to thank transbuilderguy and PBA for helping me out with this build. im glad i was successful in building this thing. i couldnt be happier with it. shifts beautifull. ive just gotta get the governor right

[NEUMANNZZ]

some good governor info:
http://www.dragracingonline.com/technical/vi_9-bm-1.html

[whitelightnin92]

thanks!

[PBA]

If you want the 1-2, 2-3 & 3-4 shifts to be apx. 5,500rpm you will need the 1-2, 2-3 & 3-4 shift valve, bushing and springs and governor from a Z-28 valve body. The aluminum bushings have a code on the end of them and you can see this code from the front of the valve body. If you have access to valve bodies, look for these letter codes on them. The one toward the outside of the valve body is the 1-2, and the next one the 2-3, and the one near the middle is the 3-4 shift valve bushing. If you can locate an "N" (1-2), 17, (2-3), 0 (3-4) in a valve body, then this will be a Z-28. There are other Z-28 types. "M" (1-2), 16, (2-3), 5 (3-4) in a valve body, or "N" (1-2), 17, (2-3), 5 (3-4) in a valve body. Find these valves, or valve body and the governor is easy to get, if you do not find one. I am sure there is more but these are the three that I did all of the measurements on. The Corvette has its own numbers and governor too.

[whitelightnin92]

thanks, im going to play with the governor a bit and if i can get it satisfactory i will leave it. if not i will try to find a valvebody. my biggest thing is i want part throttle shifts early and WOT around 5500. right now with my shifts at 4600 and 5000 my part throttle shifts are really high

[whitelightnin92]

Well, sprag has been starting to let go(sometimes no movement
t in OD position. Then grenaded the front planets. Ugh. Guess ill get five pinions and new sprag