ran my 06 today.... what a suprise

[whitelightnin92]

well went to the track with a buddy of mine. i had just tuned his tbi camaro and i decided to run my 06 just to see what it would do. ECSB 4x4 5.3

i was expecting a low 16. ran a 15.6@87 something first pass shifting on its own
second pass i shifted it manually and got a 15.5@89.9 but i shifted too early on 1-2 and hurt my 1/8 mile

now this truck is bone stock. do they normally run that fast stock? ive never really messed with these as im a TBI guy lol.

[whitelightnin92]

i will post slips in a bit

[Outlawz2004]

Seems to be running what a stock 2wd normally would. Quick for a 4x4.

[custm2500]

Generaly letting the truck do it's own shifting is much better then shifting it your self.

I wouldn't say amazingly fast for what it is but on the faster side especialy being 4x4.

[whitelightnin92]

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/SANY0510.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/whitelightnin92pics/SANY0509.jpg

as you can see the faster run acually had a slower 1/8 mile due to my shifting. but made up for it on the big end by holding 2nd . hit the rev limit right at the traps

[LOBO2]

That's a good time! How were you leaving the line?

[whitelightnin92]

That's a good time! How were you leaving the line?

slow lol. i stalled it up and launched. well stalled it best i could. 1600 i think is what it left at. i really wanna tune it and run again. too many projects tho and this truck needs to be reliable

[LOBO2]

Did you leave the line in 4wd?

[RichLockyer]

Did you leave the line in 4wd?
Hopefully not without sleeving the tie rods.

[whitelightnin92]

Did you leave the line in 4wd?

no, it doesnt have that much ass. but i have had it wheelhopping on the road in 4wd pulling a heavy trailer trying to make it thru a light. didnt tear anything up. road was wet tho

[whitelightnin92]

if it had more stall i should easily get a 2.0 60ft

[LOBO2]

So what is the consenus on racing/leaving the line in 4wd Hi or in auto? I've read where some say that's an excellant way for a solid launch & wouldn't do it any other way, others say it will damage the parts & they wouldn't dream of leaving the line this way. My truck is mild by anyones standards, but even my truck spins when leaving the line, and I have experienced wheel hop only once so far. Anyone have first hand experience?

[RichLockyer]

4wd launch is a much harder launch... less wheelspin, quicker times.

4wd launch is much harder on parts. I've seen front tires end up looking like this \____/ from a 4wd launch. The tie rods in the IFS are a weak point. Sleeve them before attempting a 4wd launch.

Even with the rods sleeved... if it starts to hop, let off the throttle and give up on the run.

[LOBO2]

4wd launch is a much harder launch... less wheelspin, quicker times.

4wd launch is much harder on parts. I've seen front tires end up looking like this \____/ from a 4wd launch. The tie rods in the IFS are a weak point. Sleeve them before attempting a 4wd launch.

Even with the rods sleeved... if it starts to hop, let off the throttle and give up on the run.

Thanks for the explanations & information! I have to show my ignorance, and ask what is sleeving the tie rods?

[whitelightnin92]

never launch in auto. either 2hi or 4hi. you launch in auto and when the back tires spin it slams the transfercase in 4wd. very hard on parts. sleeving the tie rods. basically just that. you will install a tube or "sleeve" over the existing tie rod to keep it from bending. not needed unless you have enough power to break all four loose

[kemble]

I would think that's a good time. I ran 15.21 with the truck in the sig.

[RichLockyer]

not needed unless you have enough power to break all four loose
I've seen them taco from the front tire hitting a 6" rock at the "wrong" angle at slower than walking speed.

[whitelightnin92]

never seen that

[LOBO2]

never launch in auto. either 2hi or 4hi. you launch in auto and when the back tires spin it slams the transfercase in 4wd. very hard on parts. sleeving the tie rods. basically just that. you will install a tube or "sleeve" over the existing tie rod to keep it from bending. not needed unless you have enough power to break all four loose

So if you launch in 4 hi do you leave it engaged for the duration of the 1/4 mile pass?

[whitelightnin92]

nah, no need to it will just slow you down.

[LOBO2]

nah, no need to it will just slow you down.

Thanks for your help!

[whitelightnin92]

yessir!

[rebelbowtie]

never launch in auto. either 2hi or 4hi. you launch in auto and when the back tires spin it slams the transfercase in 4wd. very hard on parts. sleeving the tie rods. basically just that. you will install a tube or "sleeve" over the existing tie rod to keep it from bending. not needed unless you have enough power to break all four loose

not exactly how that works, the transfer case is always in 4wd but there are viscous clutches that transfer power to the front end automatically and gradually and its not bad for it, its designed to work this way. also sleeving tie rods are necessary if you do anything other than driving over curbs in the walmart parking lot.

how auto 4x4 works.

http://z71.net/nvg246a.GIF

In the 4HI mode, the power flow to the rear propshaft (10) is the same as it is in the 2HI mode. To deliver power flow to the front propshaft (13) during the 4HI position, the transfer control module commands the encoder motor (15) to apply the clutch to a calibrated torque. The encoder motor (15) turns the control actuator lever shaft (14). A brake in the encoder motor (15) holds the control actuator lever shaft (14) in the full clutch position. The control actuator lever shaft (14) is cam designed and the cam action moves the clutch lever (4). The clutch lever (4) pivots on the clutch lever pivot studs and moves toward the clutch apply plate, to engage the clutch. As more pressure is applied to the clutch apply plate, the clutch discs are compressed. Using inner clutch discs, which are engaged with the clutch hub (5), and the outer clutch discs, which are engaged with the clutch housing (6), the power flow is delivered to the clutch housing (6). The clutch hub (5) is splined to the rear output shaft (9), and the clutch housing (6) rotates on a needle bearing on the rear output shaft (9). The chain drive sprocket (7) is splined to the clutch housing (6). The power flows from the drive sprocket (7), through the chain (11), to the chain driven sprocket. The driven sprocket is splined to the front output shaft (12). The power flow is delivered to the front propshaft (13) through the front output shaft (12).

During the Auto 4WD mode, the power flow is the same as it is in the 4HI mode. Except, during the Auto 4WD mode, the encoder motor (15) rotates the control actuator shaft lever (14) to the correct torque level positions. Rotating the control actuator (14) to the various positions changes the clutch torque level. When a difference of front propshaft (13) to rear propshaft (10) speed is recognized, the transfer case control modules command for more, or less clutch torque.


I've seen them taco from the front tire hitting a 6" rock at the "wrong" angle at slower than walking speed.


never seen that

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/fullcircle87/85c60b3c.jpg?t=1302993186

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/fullcircle87/IMG_0468.jpg?t=1301277840

stock 6.0 4wd launch in dirt and it still snapped. i have broke 4 sets of tie rods now.

[whitelightnin92]

if you didnt have the front end cranked so high they probably wouldnt have broken. ive launched my truck in 4lo just screwing around and never broken anything. never seen anyone else break them. IDK mabe im completely wrong here. as for the transfer case, yes you are correct. i wasnt trying to explain exactly how it worked i was just stating that it really slams when it engages in Auto. i dont like it and yes anything that slams like that IS bad for parts and was never intended for 4wd launches, i dont care who or how it was designed to work. Auto 4wd was intended for grandma leaving an icy intersection on her way home

[rebelbowtie]

funny you feel the same way about auto4x4 as i feel about GM tie rods :lol:

regardless your truck is slightly faster than average, could be air temp that day or elevation. we dont have a 1/4 mile here in Mobile but your 1/8 looks about same as my 2500HD and most 5.3 1500's i have seen here.

actually seen some "stock" 4x4 1500s get into the 9 second 1/8 mile times with a good custom tune. i dont remember the guys time but i raced my 3.5L rental charger against him and nearly lost. charger ran a 9.5 second 1/8


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chE_dN_my6M

thats the tuned truck in question racing a civic.

[Quyonmob]

Good time. being an 06 ECSB 4x4, it's an L33 right?

I think I'll actually put mine on the track once I get a tune done.

[whitelightnin92]

funny you feel the same way about auto4x4 as i feel about GM tie rods :lol:

regardless your truck is slightly faster than average, could be air temp that day or elevation. we dont have a 1/4 mile here in Mobile but your 1/8 looks about same as my 2500HD and most 5.3 1500's i have seen here.

actually seen some "stock" 4x4 1500s get into the 9 second 1/8 mile times with a good custom tune. i dont remember the guys time but i raced my 3.5L rental charger against him and nearly lost. charger ran a 9.5 second 1/8


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chE_dN_my6M

thats the tuned truck in question racing a civic.

yea im not shur why but my mph way way high compared to my buddies 03 that day. he has LTs, CAI, Custom tune, and 4.10s. other than that same setup. he ran a 15.3@87.-- and i ran a 15.5- @ 89.9 so i had 2-3 mph on him. he got me in the 60ft.. but i was suprised at the mph due to mine being stock. i thought he would wax me

[whitelightnin92]

Good time. being an 06 ECSB 4x4, it's an L33 right?

I think I'll actually put mine on the track once I get a tune done.

yea its an L33. HP tuners is on my list of things to get

[whitelightnin92]

i think ii could easily break 9s if it wasnt for the electronic throttle. my 60s should be in the 2.0 range. which would put me at say a 9.6-9.7 1/8 mile. basically, i should be able to get a 15.00 1/4 if i could get my 60 ft down to a 2.0 . but realistically i will probably never run it again. POSSIBLY after i tune it one time just for testing purposes lol

[kemble]

Heres the slip from my 04 in sig for comparison sake.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/briankemble/026.jpg

[Fast305]

i think ii could easily break 9s if it wasnt for the electronic throttle. my 60s should be in the 2.0 range. which would put me at say a 9.6-9.7 1/8 mile. basically, i should be able to get a 15.00 1/4 if i could get my 60 ft down to a 2.0 . but realistically i will probably never run it again. POSSIBLY after i tune it one time just for testing purposes lol

You won't get your 60 down into the 2.0s range without gears, alot more converter, and lots of practice.

I am cutting mid 1.90s in the Ram, but have 28" tall drag radials, 4.56 gears, and the power to push 5,200 lbs in the mid 8s.

[rebelbowtie]

You won't get your 60 down into the 2.0s range without gears, alot more converter, and lots of practice.

I am cutting mid 1.90s in the Ram, but have 28" tall drag radials, 4.56 gears, and the power to push 5,200 lbs in the mid 8s.

but you lie about everything.

[speedracer326]

What crap. Mine would probably crack off a mid 16 at sea level. Think I'll go shoot myself now.

Edit: no it wouldn't, those fvcking 285's are killing me.

[whitelightnin92]

i have 275/55R20s

[speedracer326]

Are those heavier with the 20" rims? OD is about the same as a 265/75-16, but I suspect your tread makes for less rolling resistance than mine. I've got Duratracs. I cracked off a 17.62 last year with a DA between 5000-7000 but I was on 265's at the time. 60' was a 2.4, the truck just had no balls. Every time I got back to sea level I'm amazed at what I'm missing. They say the altitude here adds a full second, but not 2 which is what amazes me about your truck. I drove an '07 Avalanche and while I realize they're heavier than yours, my truck would have absolutely crushed this thing. This is obviously not the case with your truck.

[Outlawz2004]

but you lie about everything.
Yes he does, but in this case he is right.

You won't get your 60 down into the 2.0s range without gears, alot more converter, and lots of practice.

I will have to agree with you on this one.

[The Fiddle]

i think ii could easily break 9s if it wasnt for the electronic throttle. my 60s should be in the 2.0 range. which would put me at say a 9.6-9.7 1/8 mile. basically, i should be able to get a 15.00 1/4 if i could get my 60 ft down to a 2.0 . but realistically i will probably never run it again. POSSIBLY after i tune it one time just for testing purposes lol

It isn't so much the electronic throttle as it is TM and Abuse Mode holding it back at the line.

What gears does your L33 have?

[speedracer326]

It isn't so much the electronic throttle as it is TM and Abuse Mode holding it back at the line.

What gears does your L33 have?

Guess what the ETC trucks use for TM? In addition to pulling timing, they limit throttle opening. That 07 Avalanche I drove never went above 85% throttle opening, I was datalogging with my laptop.

[whitelightnin92]

3.73 gears. the stall and the tune are the biggest issue. it only flashes to about 1700. makes for a bit of a dog till about 15mph

[whitelightnin92]

Guess what the ETC trucks use for TM? In addition to pulling timing, they limit throttle opening. That 07 Avalanche I drove never went above 85% throttle opening, I was datalogging with my laptop.

yea i can tell by the tone of it that its not going to full throttle. and after 3500 you can hear it open the throttle more. its just stupid. gotta wait till 3500 before it decides to go.

[rebelbowtie]

i kinda wish i went with a higher stall, i did a 2300rpm converter rebuilt stock body from rev converters on ebay about a year ago. it still feels stock, i wanted to do a 2800rpm one but was afraid it'd cook the fluid if i hooked up to a heavy trailer since at the time i was still towing horse trailers and stuff.

[whitelightnin92]

i was pulling 2.0s with my 92 with the same height tires same gears and a 2500 stall

[The Fiddle]

Guess what the ETC trucks use for TM? In addition to pulling timing, they limit throttle opening. That 07 Avalanche I drove never went above 85% throttle opening, I was datalogging with my laptop.


Well fack....

[whitelightnin92]

i kinda wish i went with a higher stall, i did a 2300rpm converter rebuilt stock body from rev converters on ebay about a year ago. it still feels stock, i wanted to do a 2800rpm one but was afraid it'd cook the fluid if i hooked up to a heavy trailer since at the time i was still towing horse trailers and stuff.

did this too many times and im now scared of stalls in trucks. i did a 2500 stall this last time in my 92 and it seems to be doing ok pulling(before i blew the motor up). thats about the limit for me tho.

[whitelightnin92]

Well fack....

yessir. i had a 99 RCSB 4X4 with a 4.8 rape me off the line and i had to reel him in. finally caught him at like 40 mph and it was over after that. he has the cable throttle

[speedracer326]

Not too shabby when you probably have 800# on him.

[whitelightnin92]

wow that much? ouch

[Quyonmob]

wow that much? ouch

The GMT800 ECSB's aren't light. Forgot what I tared at at the scrap yard last time, but I was damn surprised compared to my GMT400 RCLB.

[whitelightnin92]

yea i knew it was heavier but didnt know it was that much. i may be getting efi live. i have a few people bugging me about tuning their stuff, so if i can get some money together i will be getting it.

[speedracer326]

I think it's the EC part that adds so much weight. My '88 C1500 RCLB was 4150# and my '98 K1500 ECSB was 5120# (was becuase I've since made it heavier). I don't think I'm too far off to guess 200# for 4WD leaving 800# for the diff. Plus his was RCSB, so the difference might have been more.

[whitelightnin92]

800 lbs is close to a second in the quarter. so... wow i could be running mid 14s right now if mine was 4200 lbs

[speedracer326]

LS motor'd bastard. Why do they feel so gutless and yet apparently run so fast?

[whitelightnin92]

LS motor'd bastard. Why do they feel so gutless and yet apparently run so fast?

ETC and the cylinder head design promotes high rpm. it pisses me off too dont worry. i have an old truck i dumped a pile of money into and its no faster than my stock L33

[speedracer326]

That's why I wanted in the worst way to tune that 07 Avalanche I keep yapping about, but my EFILive was giving me some weird message when I tried to use my license to unlock it. A week later I tuned my dad's Blazer no problem, go figure. I was real curious what a stock 5.3 was supposed to feel like. Ya know those 5.3 cams aren't much bigger than an L31 cam, it truly is all in the heads and intake which makes me wonder why they'd still lack for low end torque. . . or do they?

[whitelightnin92]

they do lack lowend IMO. the L33 cam is a bit bigger than the rest btw

[speedracer326]

Oh rearry? Wasn't that like a 1 year thing, aluminum block and all? Musta been the LM7 cam I'm thinking of, IIRC that one's like 19X/19X and .46X/.46X on a wide LSA.

[LOBO2]

This is the info on stock cams that I have,

Trucks and SUV with Vortec engine
LR4 and LM7

1999 12560966 191/190 .457/.466 115.5
00-04 12560967 191/190 .457/.466 114

The 2003 - 2004 LM7 used the 12560967 camshaft

[The Fiddle]

they do lack lowend IMO. the L33 cam is a bit bigger than the rest btw

My 4.10's make up for it though. Yet it just doesn't have the same "ass" behind it as my 383 does.


And I must have the heaviest ECSB GMT400 in the world. It constantly weighs 5600-5900 lbs each time I weigh it.

[whitelightnin92]

as far as i know the all aluminum block L33 has its own cam specs from the rest and also has higher compression pistons and different heads. i had an article on it but i dont know where i found it. i dont think 4.10s would be enough for me. 4.56s would be good. and a few hundred rpm more stall. my 1-2 is like 45 mph. i believe at the track i was taking 1st up to 50 mph just before the 6k rev limit and it doesnt come to life till about 25 mph. on occasions it will start laying rubber when it reaches 25 ish till about 40 on a crappy road. i dont like how the power is kind of peaky. i would rather sacrifice a couple hp for a broader TQ range

[whitelightnin92]

i remember now, the l33 uses LS6 heads.

LM7 295hp ? ft/lbs
L33 330hp 325 ft/lbs

LM7 Left - L33 Right
Both are 2005

Compression Ratio
9.49:1 9.9:1

Camshaft Lobe Lift - Exhaust
6.96 mm 7.2 mm
0.274 in 0.283 in

Camshaft Lobe Lift - Intake
6.82 mm 7.2 mm
0.268 in 0.283 in

Valves - Valve Lift - Intake Valves
11.58 mm 12.24 mm
0.456 in 0.482 in

Valves - Valve Lift - Exhaust Valves
11.82 mm 12.24 mm
0.465 in 0.482 in

cant find duration specs.

IMO its underrated because they are dynoing 280-290ish to the wheels stock. thats like 350-360 hp.... before tuning :)

[speedracer326]

Yep, Rudy package. So they made both the LM7 and L33 in the same year, huh? Short of opening the glovebox, how do you know which has an L33?

[rebelbowtie]

Yep, Rudy package. So they made both the LM7 and L33 in the same year, huh? Short of opening the glovebox, how do you know which has an L33?

of course they did, the L33 was only available in texas edition trucks and ecsb 4x4 "vortec H.O" trucks.

[speedracer326]

It appears the only way is to know is to A: put a magnet on the block or B: look in the glovebox for RPO L33. Is this correct? I need to do more reading, I had no idea there were bone stock trucks floating around with LS6 heads, dayum. White I'm pretty sure you'd be less disappointed in your old truck if you'd gotten the LM7.

[whitelightnin92]

It appears the only way is to know is to A: put a magnet on the block or B: look in the glovebox for RPO L33. Is this correct? I need to do more reading, I had no idea there were bone stock trucks floating around with LS6 heads, dayum. White I'm pretty sure you'd be less disappointed in your old truck if you'd gotten the LM7.


i think so too. at the same time, im happy i got the truck. at the time i didnt know it was an L33. i ran the VIN one day and it came up L33 (5.3 HO) and i was happier than a dog with two peckers

[whitelightnin92]

so, who has an L33 that burns oil? mine has 66k miles and is burning like 3 qts in 5k miles. :wtf:
i have an L31 that burns a half a quart in 5 k miles. ive heard from several people the new all aluminum motors burn oil.... why? i though it was just the ones that cut down to 4 cylinders

[whitelightnin92]

ok, so i spent awhile looking for a solution to this and find that my truck is "in spec" according to GM. 1 quart in 2k miles is acceptable... thats BS. i also found that they consume oil due to the type of piston rings that were used

[rebelbowtie]

ok, so i spent awhile looking for a solution to this and find that my truck is "in spec" according to GM. 1 quart in 2k miles is acceptable... thats BS. i also found that they consume oil due to the type of piston rings that were used

yep i was just about to say that. the 6.0 and 8.1 do the same thing. but my 6.0 isnt too bad, i havent noticed any real oil consumption.

[whitelightnin92]

way to go GM :)

[Quyonmob]

It appears the only way is to know is to A: put a magnet on the block or B: look in the glovebox for RPO L33. Is this correct? I need to do more reading, I had no idea there were bone stock trucks floating around with LS6 heads, dayum. White I'm pretty sure you'd be less disappointed in your old truck if you'd gotten the LM7.

L33 was 2005-2007classic ECSB's 4x4 only.

8th digit of VIN
B = L33
T = LM7

[Quyonmob]

so, who has an L33 that burns oil? mine has 66k miles and is burning like 3 qts in 5k miles. :wtf:
i have an L31 that burns a half a quart in 5 k miles. ive heard from several people the new all aluminum motors burn oil.... why? i though it was just the ones that cut down to 4 cylinders

Mine was a dud valve cover at the fixed orifice PCV valve.

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/general-discussion/technical-maintenance/448242-2007-sierra-classic-5-3l-l33-blue-smoke-start-up.html

Burns less than 1/2qt in 5000mi now, which is above normal for anything.

[Fast305]

Burns less than 1/2qt in 5000mi now, which is above normal for anything.

I disagree, depending on the driving situations and conditions, it can be normal to burn 1 qt in 1,000 miles, especially if the engine is driven even semi aggressively. Ring technology these days is great, but oil still has to get into places that it won't come back from to lubricate things like the valve guides and upper rings.

[Quyonmob]

I disagree, depending on the driving situations and conditions, it can be normal to burn 1 qt in 1,000 miles, especially if the engine is driven even semi aggressively. Ring technology these days is great, but oil still has to get into places that it won't come back from to lubricate things like the valve guides and upper rings.

Sorry, I meant, better than normal, rather than more excessive than normal. So I definitely agree with what you are saying.

1/2qt in 5000mi is excellent.

[The Fiddle]

IMO its underrated because they are dynoing 280-290ish to the wheels stock. thats like 350-360 hp.... before tuning :)

I don't know how much power it really puts out but it is punchy. I'll put a hurtin' on stock Mustang GT's until they really start rowing gears in them.

[Pauly]

yea i can tell by the tone of it that its not going to full throttle. and after 3500 you can hear it open the throttle more. its just stupid. gotta wait till 3500 before it decides to go.
Thats not ETC, that GEN 3 engines in general. The experience would be "similar" with a cable throttle. Throw in a 3600 stall, PCM tune and hold on. LAunch that engine in the emat of its torque and lookout.

I am very impressed with your stock 89mph trap speed. Good stuff. The slightly higher cam lift of the L33 vs. the LM7 help on the L33's "almost 100% LS6'like" cylinder head assembly.

I bet grabbing a WOT 2-1 downshift in your truck while travelling about 30mph must feel reall nice.

peace
Hog

[Pauly]

of course they did, the L33 was only available in texas edition trucks and ecsb 4x4 "vortec H.O" trucks.
The 2004 Texas truck was a 2wd ecab 10 bolt rear LQ9 345/380 lb/ft truck, it has specific 20" wheels different than teh SS Silvy. These truck were identified by RPO B4V. The were called Texas truck because you could only get them in and near Texas. There were less than 1000 B4V VHO trucks built in 2004. The VHO decals that were found on the front/side of teh trucks were dealer installed, so check the RPO code list for 100% status.
These were the 1st 2wd 1/2 ton trucks that got LQ9 6.0. These 2wd trucks had the front torsion bar suspension. IIRC traction control was a mandatory option.
B4V= Performance Package
2005 VHO/B4V still 2wd and pretty much the same except GM used the 14 bolt 9.5" SF rear end. You could get these trucks across North America now.

You couldnt get a 2004 Texas truck with L33. L33 is an aluminum block 5.3 liter engine with a cam with lsightly more lift, exact same duration, LS6'like head assembly which causes the 9.9:1 compression vs. 9.4 for the LM7. 310 hp and the same for LM7 335 lb/ft torque @4000rpm were the result. These trucks were test beds for future GEN 4 4.8 and 5.3 engines that use the higher flowing LS6'like head assemblies.(799 head casting IIRC-no sodium fulled valves like LS6)

All Vortec HO trucks were 6.0 liters of LQ9 345hp@5200rpm and 380 lb/ft torque@4000rpm fury.

peace
Pauly

[The Fiddle]

Thats not ETC, that GEN 3 engines in general. The experience would be "similar" with a cable throttle. Throw in a 3600 stall, PCM tune and hold on. LAunch that engine in the emat of its torque and lookout.

I am very impressed with your stock 89mph trap speed. Good stuff. The slightly higher cam lift of the L33 vs. the LM7 help on the L33's "almost 100% LS6'like" cylinder head assembly.

I bet grabbing a WOT 2-1 downshift in your truck while travelling about 30mph must feel reall nice.

peace
Hog

I can definitely tell the powerband difference between my L33 and my 383. Both are exciting on a 2-1 WOT downshift though. :burn:

[whitelightnin92]

I bet grabbing a WOT 2-1 downshift in your truck while travelling about 30mph must feel reall nice.

peace
Hog

its actually a bit over agressive lol. can you say 10ft + of rubber at 25-30 mph

[speedracer326]

its actually a bit over agressive lol. can you say 10ft + of rubber at 25-30 mph

Get a tune and you'll be like 1:40.

http://youtu.be/riBA-FsJJmY

Can someone please teach me how to embed?

[Fast305]

its actually a bit over agressive lol. can you say 10ft + of rubber at 25-30 mph

Sounds like a good time to me, just let me know when the same downshift throws the truck around sideways and you have to put both hands on the wheel and steer out of it. Modern Hemi + Long Tubes + 212/212 @ .050 torque cam + 4.56s = spinning 305/50/R20s at will through first gear and a 3-2 downshift at 60 mph that also breaks tires loose on certain roads.

[Outlawz2004]

Sounds like a good time to me, just let me know when the same downshift throws the truck around sideways and you have to put both hands on the wheel and steer out of it. Modern Hemi + Long Tubes + 212/212 @ .050 torque cam + 4.56s = spinning 305/50/R20s at will through first gear and a 3-2 downshift at 60 mph that also breaks tires loose on certain roads.
again with the dang dodge. All we used to hear about was that van, now all we hear about is your dodge. Get over yourself, you have done everything and have everything better than everyone here, at least in your mind that is.

[whitelightnin92]

yea i think i could do that with those mods too. mines stock. not knocking your dodge but i am not impressed with them at all and i also start to get irritated when people call them hemi's because they are really not a true hemi. they have a pent-roof combustion chamber, in my book its a wanna be hemi. hell, damn near all manufacturers use that chamber design on newer engines. a true hemi chamber has poor lowend output and poor emissions due to low swirl at low rpm and thats why it isnt used. so i guess what im trying to say is dodge puts that hemi emblem on there for marketing purposes and the public is stupid enough to buy it.

[whitelightnin92]

ive gotten two tickets in the truck for spinning tires and both times were from like a 30 mph roll to pass traffic. i really need to get stickier tires. been looking at khumo ventures. they look like a real nice tire and are rated at 149 mph. anyone have any experience with them?

[Outlawz2004]

ive gotten two tickets in the truck for spinning tires and both times were from like a 30 mph roll to pass traffic. i really need to get stickier tires. been looking at khumo ventures. they look like a real nice tire and are rated at 149 mph. anyone have any experience with them?
which ones, the road ventures? If so, they are a smooth long lasting tire, but they are light and you will smoke them easy. My wifes 4 banger suv was spinning them. The kumho stx on the other hand grip pretty good.

[Diesel Dan LB7]

nah, no need to it will just slow you down.

there isn't a way to take it out of 4wd during a 1/4mi

[Diesel Dan LB7]

stock 6.0 4wd launch in dirt and it still snapped. i have broke 4 sets of tie rods now.

get aftermarket rods :whatever:

[speedracer326]

ive gotten two tickets in the truck for spinning tires and both times were from like a 30 mph roll to pass traffic. i really need to get stickier tires. been looking at khumo ventures. they look like a real nice tire and are rated at 149 mph. anyone have any experience with them?

I assume you're after an all season tire? I think a sticky all season is a tall order, unless you've got dryrotted shjt bricks on there right now.

[whitelightnin92]

yea i was looking at the stx tire

[Outlawz2004]

yea i was looking at the stx tire
the stx is a good tire, they handled great and lasted a long time, but they are a little on the heavy side.

[whitelightnin92]

there isn't a way to take it out of 4wd during a 1/4mi

mine will shift out of 4wd whenever i want

[whitelightnin92]

i will most likely get the stx tires. they look like a well built tire.

[Diesel Dan LB7]

mine will shift out of 4wd whenever i want

not at WOT

[whitelightnin92]

ok...

[Quyonmob]

The t-case really shouldn't be able to shift at WOT, as the torque load is tremendous, even to disengage the front output. Generally the encoder motor waits for relaxed throttle or coasting to shift, regardless of what the blinking lights are showing.

[kemble]

I ran mine in 4HI once and it stayed locked in until I had made the turn on the access road after the run. I pushed the 2 wheel drive button after the shift to second.

[whitelightnin92]

i dont need 4wd anyway at this point lol

[Diesel Dan LB7]

The t-case really shouldn't be able to shift at WOT, as the torque load is tremendous, even to disengage the front output. Generally the encoder motor waits for relaxed throttle or coasting to shift, regardless of what the blinking lights are showing.

this^

[speedracer326]

That sounds pretty logical, but there's a guy at my local track that launches his s/c Avalanche in 4WD and shifts into 2WD when he hits 2nd gear.

[RichLockyer]

That sounds pretty logical, but there's a guy at my local track that launches his s/c Avalanche in 4WD and shifts into 2WD when he hits 2nd gear.
He might press the button, but the transfer case and diff won't unlock until torque backs off.
It won't disengage with pressure on the gears.

[speedracer326]

On what year? Mine did. It would spin one run, then hook the next. At this altitude, there was no power for me to make, so no clunk or anything

[Pauly]

There are guys that have launched in 4wd, then shifted from 4HI to 2HI too early(b4 1-2 WOT upshift) and ended up spinning the rear tires, all this WITHOUT lifting the throttle. Obviously not all trucks need teh throttle lift to go from 4hi to 2 hi.

peace
PAUly

[whitelightnin92]

thank you. i decided i wasnt even going to argue with them. im thinking a small turbo down the road. keep it pretty much stock. i do want 4.30 gears tho. i think that combined with a turbo will really make it come alive. i wouldnt run much boost. mabe 6 lbs

[The Fiddle]

i do want 4.30 gears tho.

http://chzbronies.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/my-little-pony-friendship-is-magic-brony-im-ok-with-this.jpg

[speedracer326]

i wouldnt run much boost. mabe 6 lbs

I call bullshjt. If 6 is good, 10 is better and it's only a wastegate spring away. You can't hold out forever.

[RichLockyer]

I call bullshjt. If 6 is good, 10 is better and it's only a wastegate spring away. You can't hold out forever.
Juicegrips<tm>

Check out user "Juicegrips" on Dieselplace.
His original username was "Juice".

It was change to "Juicegrips" after he performed a non-factory authorized modification to his wastegate on his Duramax LB7 using a common hand tool.
He then proceeded to grenade the turbo :D

[speedracer326]

I'm pretty sure those Dmaxxes pump out a hair over 10psi.

[RichLockyer]

I'm pretty sure those Dmaxxes pump out a hair over 10psi.
Ya... I think he was around 35 when he let off the throttle and the turbo bark grenaded it.

[whitelightnin92]

yea thats a bit more than stock psi lol

[RichLockyer]

Ya, but how high would your system go if you "replaced" the wastegate spring with a pair of Juice(Vise)Grips on the wastegate control hose?

[The Fiddle]

I call bullshjt. If 6 is good, 10 is better and it's only a wastegate spring away. You can't hold out forever.

While this holds true, you have to remember the L33 is already running basically 10:1 compression.

[whitelightnin92]

lol this has nothing to do with me boosting my truck. never said anything about using a diesel turbo or modifying a waste gate. and no i wouldnt go over 6 psi simply because the truck gets driven daily and i dont need it blowing apart. now..... someone explain what the hell gm did designing the EVAP system for this truck. i got a simple code for an evap leak and put a gas cap on because there was no pressure in the tank. still no pressure. i decide to look for a broken EVAP line and what do you know there arent any. there is some sort of controll box by the tank and what looks to be a vent with a soleniod on it. what kind of crap is that

[whitelightnin92]

Ya, but how high would your system go if you "replaced" the wastegate spring with a pair of Juice(Vise)Grips on the wastegate control hose?

as high as the turbo would push

[speedracer326]

Ya, but how high would your system go if you "replaced" the wastegate spring with a pair of Juice(Vise)Grips on the wastegate control hose?

I'd say he got what he deserved.

[whitelightnin92]

so i havnt bought the software to tune my truck yet but my buddy let me put his edge programmer on it and i must say traction is definately an issue. the throttle now goes to 99% when you get on it and it stays there between shifts. very nice. that was worth a good .5 second i would say. it shifts at 6000 but its still pulling HARD. where you guys shifting. seems like it could use another 200rpm

[The Fiddle]

so i havnt bought the software to tune my truck yet but my buddy let me put his edge programmer on it and i must say traction is definately an issue. the throttle now goes to 99% when you get on it and it stays there between shifts. very nice. that was worth a good .5 second i would say. it shifts at 6000 but its still pulling HARD. where you guys shifting. seems like it could use another 200rpm

When I have Justin set me up a tune I'm having it set for 6000 rpm 1-2, 5800 2-3 in regular mode. Tow/Haul 6300 rpm 1-2, 6000 2-3. And some different TM settings between them if at all possible.

[whitelightnin92]

yea i think 6200 1-2 would be perfect. i like keeping the truck locked in 2nd through the traps it was like 6000 through the traps. if it would have shifted at the end of the track i would have run slower.

[The Fiddle]

Yeah I'd deffly be shifting into third before the traps with the 4.10's.

[LOBO2]

Have you been back to the track since the Edge programmer tune?

[whitelightnin92]

nope. wish it was still open. closed till spring. should definately be a high 14 sec run no problem

[whitelightnin92]

i picked up 5 mph on my 1/4 mile "test area"

[whitelightnin92]

i know it isnt accurate at all but a 95 mph trap speed in the calculator comes up to a 14.4 quarter mile. if i was to guess tho its closer to 14.8-14.9 mostly due to the pathetic 60 ft times.

another thing is im only running 26 deg of timing at wot. unfortunately i cant raise it. but theres a good bit left on the table there.

[LOBO2]

Man that truck is a beast! What gears does it have?

[whitelightnin92]

3.73s turning 275/55/20s

[fuel583]

Did you figure out the EVAP issue? i just fixed the same problem on my truck. It's the EVAP solenoid.

[whitelightnin92]

yea i took it off cleaned it and put it back on. codes went out for 2 days and came back. got a new valve and its the wrong one so i said screw it. i will fix it eventually. original part is 33 bucks but napa doesnt want to tell you it fits the truck, they want you to spend five times that on the upgraded part

[Diesel Dan LB7]

I'm pretty sure those Dmaxxes pump out a hair over 10psi.

Around 20 for an LB7

[The Fiddle]

i know it isnt accurate at all but a 95 mph trap speed in the calculator comes up to a 14.4 quarter mile. if i was to guess tho its closer to 14.8-14.9 mostly due to the pathetic 60 ft times.

another thing is im only running 26 deg of timing at wot. unfortunately i cant raise it. but theres a good bit left on the table there.

What octane are you using?

A nice 93 octane tune from any of the reputable tuners would easily push these trucks into the mid-high 14's.

[whitelightnin92]

87 octane

[whitelightnin92]

i havnt seen one run in the 14s stock (tuned)

[Fast305]

What octane are you using?

A nice 93 octane tune from any of the reputable tuners would easily push these trucks into the mid-high 14's.

Keep dreaming on that one, maybe a RCSB 5.3 with gears and a converter with a tune could get there.

[Fast305]

i know it isnt accurate at all but a 95 mph trap speed in the calculator comes up to a 14.4 quarter mile. if i was to guess tho its closer to 14.8-14.9 mostly due to the pathetic 60 ft times.

another thing is im only running 26 deg of timing at wot. unfortunately i cant raise it. but theres a good bit left on the table there.

95 mph on street tires gets me into the low 14s. On sticky, lighter, shorter tires it gets me into the upper 13s.

You would think the truck needs more than 26* of timing, but you might be able to run 29-30* on 93 octane, 26* is about perfect for 87 octane.

[whitelightnin92]

i should easily get in the 14s somewhere. only thing holding it back is the converter

[Outlawz2004]

Keep dreaming on that one, maybe a RCSB 5.3 with gears and a converter with a tune could get there.
wrong, you know my ext cab 4.8 with just a tune, K&N, and exhaust runs mid 14s,on street tires and stock trans.

[whitelightnin92]

yea i know for a fact mine will run 14s on a tune just by looking at the mph

[The Fiddle]

Keep dreaming on that one, maybe a RCSB 5.3 with gears and a converter with a tune could get there.

Why?


wrong, you know my ext cab 4.8 with just a tune, K&N, and exhaust runs mid 14s,on street tires and stock trans.

^


yea i know for a fact mine will run 14s on a tune just by looking at the mph

It may be a tad bit of a stretch with the 20's on it, but it might do it. Get tuned and out to a track on a cool night when the DA is sea level or below to run it. It is the only way we'll find out...

[Quyonmob]

wrong, you know my ext cab 4.8 with just a tune, K&N, and exhaust runs mid 14s,on street tires and stock trans.

Damn that's a fast 4.8.

[whitelightnin92]

the 20s are lighter than you think.

[whitelightnin92]

i will run it in the spring. track is closed up

[The Fiddle]

the 20s are lighter than you think.

True, but 16's will be lighter.

[Quyonmob]

True, but 16's will be lighter.

Sure will be, but the smallest an 05+ will fit is a 17.

[The Fiddle]

Sure will be, but the smallest an 05+ will fit is a 17.

Forgot about that.



:fail:

[Quyonmob]

Forgot about that.



:fail:

Meh, pull the front calipers off and run 15's.

[The Fiddle]

Silverado SUPERLEGGERA!

[1989K1500]

15.5 is good for a bone stock truck on 20s.


While this holds true, you have to remember the L33 is already running basically 10:1 compression.
With a good tune he could easily run 10psi on pump gas.

SilveradoLQ9 daily drove his L33 truck on ~13psi on pump gas and 19 on race gas.

[whitelightnin92]

yea i would be happy with 6 psi 8 max.

[speedracer326]

Around 20 for an LB7

Man boost FTW.


Get tuned and out to a track on a cool night when the DA is sea level or below to run it.

I wonder what that must be like. . .

[The Fiddle]

I wonder what that must be like. . .

Every time I go back to Arkansas to visit family I'm amazed at the power difference in my family's vehicles. Sometimes it feels like a 30-40 horse gain down there.

[whitelightnin92]

got new tires last weekend. ended up getting falkens. that is some soft rubber! they really bite well. very happy with them. 2-1 downshift is less horrifying for the passengers now lol. i still lay a couple feet of rubber on the 2-1 tho

[speedracer326]

Screw the passengers, they chose to ride with you, it's not like you stuck a gun to their head.

[LOBO2]

screw the passengers, they chose to ride with you, it's not like you stuck a gun to their head.

+1, lmao!

[whitelightnin92]

lol

[speedracer326]

Which Falken did you get? Never considered them for truck tires before.

[Outlawz2004]

Which Falken did you get? Never considered them for truck tires before.
I have ran several sets both street and all terrains. I found they are a great looking, great riding tire. The allterrains are awesome everywhere. The street versions I could break loose pretty easy.

[whitelightnin92]

they are ZIEX ST/Z 's . they are one of the better street tires ive had on anything

[The Fiddle]

Yeah I'm running the Falken Wildpeak AT's now. Pretty nice so far.