Brake controller stoplight switch?

[Kurto_15]

I am trying to hook up a brake controller to my 1995 chevy 1500 and am having trouble hooking the wire up to the stop light switch because its so far up under the dash. Is there an easier way to do this or a different spot i can hook it up to?

[buffy]

Someone reply to this. I'm curious too. There has to be a line somewhere under the dash that's more accessible than the brake switch attached to the brake rod.

[dave89iroc]

95 should have a plug in the convenience center for a brake controller

[buffy]

95 should have a plug in the convenience center for a brake controller

Sorry dude. I don't think its there.

[dave89iroc]

Sorry dude. I don't think its there.

well, ok

brake light wire goes to the turn signal switch, it is white

[buffy]

I've been studying this for a bit now. Based on my Haynes Repair Manual, observation, and the input on this board, it looks like the Center High Mounted Stop Light (CHMSL) is getting directly powered through the TCC / Stop Lamp Switch. In the 7-Pin Prewire, it looks like the white CHMSL lead is sent all the way back to the rear along the frame with the Blue (Brake) and Orange (Auxiliary) leads. I don't see why I couldn't just pull this extra White (CHMSL) line back through the firewall to input the brake controller. This way, no cut lines.

[buffy]

Well, I used my four year old to apply the brake pedal while I measured with the ole Multimeter. I've confirmed 11 volts and 23.6 ohms at the White (CHMSL) lead when the brake is applied. Seems like that's a no brainer for us fellas never planning to install a secondary CHMSL. I'll follow the line back to the engine compartment later.

[buffy]

I wanted to add a reply to confirm that my theory proved successful. To review, you can use the Auxiliary CHMSL (White) line running the length of the frame wrapped with the Auxiliary power (Orange) and Brake (Blue) to input your brake controller. I just snipped the line at the frame near the driver's door and pulled it from the loom up into the engine compartment. Right about where it gets into the engine compartment the whole group of lines gets wrapped in tape. Instead of jacking with that mess, I just pulled it to there and sent the loose line to the firewall. I already had a hole punched through the firewall for other auxiliary lines, so I just threaded the Auxiliary CHMSL (White) line through that hole. I also loosened up the Blue and Orange lines that terminate under the vacuum booster and sent the Blue line through the firewall. The Orange line already has a connector to hook up to the auxiliary connections at the fuse block. It's actually straightforward if you have a little info. If you have a '95 - '98 Fullsize PU or SUV, this should do the trick. This will only be a problem if you need that Auxiliary CHMSL (White) for a PU camper or cover with a CHMSL on top.