GEN 1 or roller block?

[Coburn]

Hey guys, I'm gunna be building me an engine here for my truck, a 350, NOT 383 cuz they supposedly don't last as long, but that's an opinion.

Anyhow, I have a 96 block that needs line bored, bored, and then the cam bearings re done. It's a roller block! But someone spun 6 bearings in it. 2 bolt mains. 1 piece rear main.

I also have a 1977 350 engine with 4 bolt mains! the rotating assembly seems pretty tight actually. Yet to plastiguage it. Also is a 2 piece rear main.

With me building up an engine, also on a very tight budget, should I use the older block with a good rotating assembly or spring for the better cast, newer block that needs machined? I have both, both being longblocks, but the newer one needs more work to get it going. Is it worth it?

[GreaseDog]

if you're going to "build" and engine, it needs to be fully machined, and i would start with a roller block. if you're looking to repair an engine, go with the one that's going to be cheaper to complete.

[04SilveradoMykk]

Depends on what your goals are.

The 2 piece rear main stroker kits are cheaper than the one piece rear main kits. The life expectancy comes down to what kit you use and how meticulously it's assembled. With an emphasis on the latter.

However, roller valve train is key for building big power. Roller hydraulic cams have better characteristics than flat tappet, and the cost to retrofit a non-roller block is expensive.

I'm using an 86-95 roller cam, four bolt main 350 block now. And I have in my shop a bare 96-02 vortec 350 block I intend to make a 390ci 500hp stroker motor.

Greasedog is right, every rebuild needs machining. Especially since it sounds like longevity is your goal.

[Coburn]

So your saying that since it should be machined no matter what, the roller block is the way to go?