03 RCSB Audio Setup: I NEED Audio Gu-ru HELP!

[CustomChevyGuy]

Calling all Audio Gu-ru's ( I thought I posted something along this line before, but I didnt seem to find it)
I am getting ready to put some bass in my 03 RCSB Silverado

Here is a quick list of my system components:
Alpine head unit CDE-9843

Door Speakers: Pioneer TSA1782R 4-Way 280-Watt Speakers

Rear pillar speakers: Pioneer TSA4672R 150-Watt Speakers

Kicker 10C104 10" Comp Series

SPECIFICATIONS:
Speaker/Subwoofer Size : 10"
Power Handling (RMS) : 150 Watts
Power Handling (MAX) : 300 Watts
Impedance : 4-Ohms

I want to amp the door speakers, and thinking about bridging (if needed) two channels for the sub. (I'm not sure I want to amp the rear pillars at all). I am going for clarity and punch over loudness and humming (maybe that effects the decision on which amp to get)

I want to know what size of amp I should be looking for?

I was thinking that 1200w amp (roughly 300 x 4) and that would be roughly what the door speakers are able to handle, and also what the sub is about to max at.
http://millionbuy.com/pakstax12004.html
OR
http://millionbuy.com/pakovn4-1200.html

However I've been told that its better to have too much power for speakers rather then starving them. Does this mean I should spend the extra $ for the 1600W amp (roughly 400 x 4)?
http://millionbuy.com/pakstax16004.html
OR
http://millionbuy.com/pakovn4-1600.html

Thanks in advance!

[CustomChevyGuy]

bump!

[CustomChevyGuy]

so I realized that I posted this at like 1 am, maybe I should have just waited till more people were on the forum..

still looking for help.

[kemble]

I've got a kicker 550.3 amp powering my front door speakers, and a 10" subwoofer. Imo you should ditch the rear speakers. The amp I run is a hybrid, meaning it has a class a/b and D all in the same amp.

[CustomChevyGuy]

I've got a kicker 550.3 amp powering my front door speakers, and a 10" subwoofer. Imo you should ditch the rear speakers. The amp I run is a hybrid, meaning it has a class a/b and D all in the same amp.

i like the pillar speakers because they help create a nice sound stage in the cab..i dont want to amp them because its a pain to get to them.

what are the specs of the 10" sub you are running? is it getting enough power from the 550 amp??

[kemble]

Inside the truck there was a big difference In the cab not in volume, but sound quality when turning on and off the rear speakers.

At 2 ohm my amp is rated for around 400 watts on the sub channel. Sub is an old kicker comp 10.

[BOTMAN]

No need for rear fill it will muddy up the sound stage.

I don't recommend any of those amps personally...

For a mainstream brand option I suggest Kicker ZX300.1 and ZX200.2.... or rockford fosgate P200-2 and P300-1

[ragmc]

I wouldnt to the rear speakers either

[mineralgrey01gt]

Just one 10 is all your doing? If so id do a ported box behind the seat. Here is one i built for a L7 10 for a single cab chevy 99-06:

obviously it doesnt have the top on it but it shows the inner port work and such. This thing would slam for one 10. Tuned to 33hz, cant remember the exact ft of the box

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv91/lilzilla2008/photo36.jpg

[CustomChevyGuy]

Inside the truck there was a big difference In the cab not in volume, but sound quality when turning on and off the rear speakers.

At 2 ohm my amp is rated for around 400 watts on the sub channel. Sub is an old kicker comp 10.

maybe I'll play around with it then ? Does your sub have the comp "c" logo on it https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTMlv4Iay1FAaoSPSdr-e_bvDd3iINot1bPpw5w3ahW4srmKZj5gw

or the kicker logo on it?
http://www.audiovideo4me.com/v/vspfiles/photos/10C104-2T.jpg



No need for rear fill it will muddy up the sound stage.

I don't recommend any of those amps personally...

For a mainstream brand option I suggest Kicker ZX300.1 and ZX200.2.... or rockford fosgate P200-2 and P300-1

The brand of amp isn't too important to me, I need more direction i the size.
I have a couple of friends that use the Power Acoustics brand amp, and they seem to be solid, especially for the price range they have.


Just one 10 is all your doing? If so id do a ported box behind the seat. Here is one i built for a L7 10 for a single cab chevy 99-06:

obviously it doesnt have the top on it but it shows the inner port work and such. This thing would slam for one 10. Tuned to 33hz, cant remember the exact ft of the box

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv91/lilzilla2008/photo36.jpg

Yeah, I'm going with the single 10". Another friend has a Memphis 10" sub bridged on a 800w amp and that thing sounds insane for being such a simple setup.

I went to the local Best Buy (they were the only ones open this evening when I was out and about) to price a box for a single 10, and the only one they had was a "set" it was a kicker lo pro box with the same 10 I have. They were asking $150 for it - which seems way high! More then likely I will be checking out the local audio shops this weekend to see what boxes they offer.

[Dylan-0308]

none of those amps you posted will make the power you need, either look into a 5 channel amp ( bridge the front and rears for the front speakers and then use the sub for your sub ) or a 3 channel like posted above.


and i dont get how that box works, theres an open area that just adds air space, i doubt that box will work properly as air will get trapped in there and it will start to choke out the woofer.

[kemble]

I think it might say comp on the cone. I've had so many different subs in the truck its hard to remember them all.

[mineralgrey01gt]

none of those amps you posted will make the power you need, either look into a 5 channel amp ( bridge the front and rears for the front speakers and then use the sub for your sub ) or a 3 channel like posted above.


and i dont get how that box works, theres an open area that just adds air space, i doubt that box will work properly as air will get trapped in there and it will start to choke out the woofer.

You talking about the box i posted up? if so it worked extremely well and has been in the truck for over a year now and still has the same woofer, still pounding as hard as it did when I put it in there.

[CustomChevyGuy]

so I ended up picking up a shallow mount truck box for a single 10" from the local audio shop last Thursday and did the install on Friday. The box was $25 and the owner of the shop was really helpful with a few other ideas and questions I had. I ended up wiring the 200w 2ch amp and connecting up the sub bridged. It sounds pretty good for a simple setup. Its loud enough to be heard, but not enough to cause premature hearing loss. To top it off, everything fits behind the full length center console I have in the truck!

[Dyabolical]

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv91/lilzilla2008/photo36.jpg

Holy unloading batman. You do realize that a good quarter of that box is wasted space? Because the driver sits at the mouth of the port, the sub will unload into the port before the chamber volume has any chance of effecting the suspension. That box should definitely use some aeroports.

[mineralgrey01gt]

Its not the most ideal box thats for sure but it honestly did sound good. Aero ports would have been ideal but I did what the guy wanted. I mentioned aero ports (even though I have no clue how to fool with aero ports which I need to learn) but he wanted no part of it. I told him its probably not ideal but oh well. it did shock me as to how good it did sound.

[Dyabolical]

Its not the most ideal box thats for sure but it honestly did sound good. Aero ports would have been ideal but I did what the guy wanted. I mentioned aero ports (even though I have no clue how to fool with aero ports which I need to learn) but he wanted no part of it. I told him its probably not ideal but oh well. it did shock me as to how good it did sound.

It probably sounded good because it acted like a condensed t-line. Nothing necessarily wrong with it, but not an efficient design. A+ on the craftmanship however.

[mineralgrey01gt]

Thanks. I do understand where the wasted space would come into play though. I just started learning aero's and think I have a good grasp on them so im going to try some set ups in my bagged 84 for 2 8's and see what i can do with that

[Dylan-0308]

i was just about to say thats probably acting as more of a T-line rather then a ported box with the length of the port and how its set up.. why not make the port a bit wider so it dident need to be so long?

[mineralgrey01gt]

i was just about to say thats probably acting as more of a T-line rather then a ported box with the length of the port and how its set up.. why not make the port a bit wider so it dident need to be so long?

It was made completely to kicker spec. It was my first box like that so I wasnt sure how to make it. All my other boxes are built as mentioned in this thread as to where the sub doesnt unload into the port. The only reason that one is like that is becuse the sub couldnt have went anywhere's else in the box because of mounting depth.

[Dylan-0308]

im aware it was built to spec, but the way it is set up is that the sub is pretty well in the port, so the rest of the open space next to it, is acting like dead space. that box would have been much, MUCH more effiecient using round ports. but it was your first box, we all **** up then lol.

[mineralgrey01gt]

Most definitely that was not my first box. It was my first one that was slot ported that was for a single cab behind the seat. I mentioned I tried to get him to do aero ports but he wasnt having it. I built what the customer wanted.