clear coat turns grey?

[TSAEB]

i wanted to make a set of lt1 valve covers(exact same as tbi covers) look better. i sanded them down to metal, wash them with soap air and blown dry, then wiped with mineral spirits and then finally use a few coats of primer no sanding and then a ford blue color (dupli-color engine enamel) looks great when dried.....so then i get a clear coat(dupli-color engine enameL) and spray a few coats.

well not all the times but now my valve covers after the clear coat seem to look "dried out" or greyish. I know its the clear but why? to much clear? i shook the heck of the can and still does the same thing. like i said its not all the time but once in a while i keep making them looke "dried out" finally let it dry try it again and finally nice and shiny. but why would the clear coat do this?

[Tweaks]

I know exactly what you are talking about and it's actually the opposite of being "dried out." It's moisture being trapped in the clear coat when you are applying it. It usually is a sign that the coats are going on too thick. Spraying in high humidity tends to compound the problem. Sometimes, the moisture will escape as the paint cures, but when this happens on my projects, I tend to just wait for the paint to cure and then I wet sand the clear coat off and respray with thinner coats.

Lastly, I have found that spraying too much clear too soon after the last coat of color causes a reaction with the color that can make the paint look grey. I have grown to get more patient with letting the last color coat flash over and then putting a very light coat of clear on. Every coat of clear then after goes on progressively thicker.

[TSAEB]

Awesome . I had no clue why it was happening. And bummed me out Cus the valve covers where looking very nice. I'll wesand it a little and redo what u said.

[Tweaks]

I would wet sand with 600 grit simply to smooth over and scuff the surface in preparation for more of the color coat. Put on as many coats of color to get the valve covers looking nice and uniform again and then come back with the clear coat, starting with a very light first coat after the final color coat is flashed over. This will keep you from having to sand a bunch to remove the clear coat that is on there now, which isn't necessary to remove. You just want to get back to that stage where you can lay on more color and then cover the color with some clear.

[JohnMatt]

A lesson I learned as well with a rattle can. Patience and a warm dry environment is key. Be sure to post pics when you get it done

[Tweaks]

A lesson I learned as well with a rattle can. Patience and a warm dry environment is key. Be sure to post pics when you get it done

Yes!!! Very true and great advice. I opt to rattle can paint in the basement for now on because it tends to be a much better controlled climate thanks to the dehumidifier:cool:

[TSAEB]

Post pic? Idk my best work is still pretty crappy compared what i see guys post here. Lol But re did the coat looks good now. But I did notice I didn't sand the primer prep right. So goin to redo it.

I did do this right correct? I don't want my covers to crack . I sanded to medal, washed, dried, and then wiped with With mineral to be even cleaner, then dried, and used a few coats of duplicator enamel primer(looks red) then the ford blue enamel, let dry and finally dupli color clear coat.

Just slacked on the wet sanding so up close doesn't look so good.

[Tweaks]

I did do this right correct? I don't want my covers to crack . I sanded to medal, washed, dried, and then wiped with With mineral to be even cleaner, then dried, and used a few coats of duplicator enamel primer(looks red) then the ford blue enamel, let dry and finally dupli color clear coat.

Just slacked on the wet sanding so up close doesn't look so good.

Sounds exactly how I would have gone about doing it.

[elwaupo]

Years ago as a young apprentice painter (early 70s), I witnessed the same problem and yes, it is caused by moisture being trapped in the drying process. I think this only happened with the old synthetic enamals, meaning paint that you just thinned out and sprayed like the old acrylic laquers. We used to add a shot of "retarder" the chase the moisture out. 2 part paints didn't seem to have that problem as they cure much faster then a non 2 part paint. "Cure Time" means simply comepletly dried, at least that's the way I see it.

Dupli Color makes a great product and it's designed for anyone to paint many different parts but I don't think they are used much in body shops. I would try wet sanding your valve covers with at least 600-800 grit sandpaper and have them clear coated with a good 2 part automotive clear coat. Remember automotive clear coats are designed to take extreme heat on a daily basis for years. 2 coats should do it.

[elwaupo]

You mentioned that you washed them with mineral spirits, what exactly was your prep process? Did you sand them to bare metal, wash with mineral sprits and clear coat them?