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View Full Version : 98 5.7 vortec help -searching has my head spinning



gojo83
12-27-2011, 05:14 AM
This is the first SBC I have messed with but from what i can see is that so far I have a good start.

so far I have
LT headers
built proof trans
new converter
true dual headers back exhaust
egr delete
reworked intake tubing with left over tubing from another project
vortec box delete
HPTuners so I can tune it

this is what I am fuzzy on

stamped 1.6 roller tip rockers vs full rollers( I have full rollers on the other cars of mine)
would l76 aka G8 gt valve springs work to replace the worn stockers since they are all but the same as ls6 beehives just cheaper
what advantages would the lower intake getting ported but leaving the heads stock do for me
would the 411 pcm swap be beneficial for a K1500 with only rockers intake and exhaust
where would I be able to get taller valve covers to clear full rollers
would putting dynamat on the knock sensors help reduce the timing being pulled for the noisy full rollers
what kind of #s would this setup really produce.
is the trottle body from a 4.3 be the same as a 5.7 I got given a TB spacer for nothing so is it worth tossing on for kicks and giggles
is the TB blade reducer worth removing and does this effect the idle at all or the base VE in the tune.

I have HPtuners to adjust the needed tables but wanna know if the rockers is worth the time and energy with what I have. This truck will be used as a winter truck and a basic tow rig... not looking for huge #s just a reliable dependable driver. if I could hit 300whp with out a cam swap that would be great but I am not going to be torn up if I dont get there either

96ImpSS
12-31-2011, 04:32 PM
Unless you have the heads off the engine so you can enlarge the pushrod clearance holes, you'll probably find you can't install 1.6 rockers without pushrod/head interference. At least on mine they interfered.
I'm not familiar with those valve springs. I believe they need to be ~1.25" diameter at the base for the Vortec heads.
Search username VortecStroker for porting the intake. I have no experience there.
411 PCM would be a waste of money and time if you're sticking with the stock intake manifold. Even with the ZZ4 cam in mine, it doesn't make power much past 5200 rpm.
No, dynamat won't influence the knock sensors. They pick up their signal from the metallic connection to the block.
Mine produced 254 rwhp on a dyno tune with the stock cam, rockers, and springs, with LT headers and single 3" exhaust.
The TB spacer will do nothing on the L31 engine.
I removed the throttle blade lip and filled the holes on mine, but can't honestly tell you it made any difference at all.
Until you have reason to pull the heads, I wouldn't do the rocker swap. Even at 150k miles at the dyno tune, my stock springs appeared to be good; the power curve was nice and smooth past 5000 rpm.
You won't get 300 whp without a cam swap, but the truck will be quick with a good TC.

Maestro
01-03-2012, 11:44 AM
I mainly agree with 96ImpSS.

I disagree that the 0411 would be a waste. It just plain runs better, even if you're not trying to get big horsepower. It's not difficult or expensive to do and the results are great. Lextech can hook you up with everything you need.

I've done 1.6 rockers on three trucks: 2 needed the pushrod hole clearances increased, 1 did not.

I don't think there's much in porting the intake (though I smoothed mine out anyway while it was apart). If you're keeping the stock intake the best you can do is a vmax-style spacer and grind the runner edges on the intake base to match the spacer.

With ported heads and other work I would think you could get fairly close to 300WHP, but you'd pretty much have to address every single upgrade you could do aside from the cam swap. If you decide to aim for those type of numbers, just do a cam swap.

I don't think the throttle blade modding will gain you much of anything until you're making a lot more power and flowing a lot more air. It probably WILL hurt your gas mileage by effectively increasing your throttle openings.

Full rollers properly installed should not be pulling your timing. I would not mess with the knock sensor; if there's any sensor that might potentially save your engine from catastrophe, it's that one.