New Stereo Install Issues

[sellout]

I recently installed a new Alpine CD player in my 2011 Silverado W/T (non Bose) . Here's the deal... I hooked the accessory/switched power wire from the radio to the factory yellow wire which is supposed to be the dimmer. The radio works great, as long as the lights are switched on. The only other wire in the factory harness is a dark green wire, which is supposed to be the switched power wire, but when I used the dark green wire, I got nothing. And if the factory yellow and green wire are touching, I get an airbag service warning and the truck won't even turn over. So where do I get my accessory/switched power from? I tried running a wire directly to the fuse block and each one gave me constant power. Keep in mind, my truck has no power options. One other side effect from this install is that the turn signals stopped making that annoying sound and the low fuel warning doesn't make any sound. Not sure why this was tied into the radio wiring harness? Thanks.

[southcarolina12]

ive hooked up a few radios for my friends but ive never heard of a aftermarket radio getting rid of the blinker "click" and the low fuel sound. sounds kinda weird. hope someone can help you out though.

[sellout]

I have installed my fair share of radios in a wide variety of vehicles and have never had anything like this happen. Like I said, it works great if the lights are switched on, I just have to remember to turn my lights off; dohhhh!

[southcarolina12]

does it work at night when the lights cut on automatically or just when you cut the switch on?

[sellout]

Once it starts to get dark, everything is great, no need to switch on the power.

[mineralgrey01gt]

ive hooked up a few radios for my friends but ive never heard of a aftermarket radio getting rid of the blinker "click" and the low fuel sound. sounds kinda weird. hope someone can help you out though.

Mine does the same thing. Its a problem when your sounds like that come through your radio. Every 03+ chevrolet/gmc truck I know of does that unless you buy the chime module. Did you get the appropriate PAC box for the truck? Sounds like your trying to run it without that which could very well be your problem

[sellout]

What is a PAC box?

[mineralgrey01gt]

Its a certain type of box you need for installing this correctly. This might be the one you need but do not hold me to it. You most definitely do need this box:

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=166&CategoryID=26

[scotts95sierra]

Like 01gt said need that box. I have it without it I hate the chimes in the newer gms so I don't use them. That's just on my stuff. I just tap into a key hot under the dash. I know your not suppose to do that but I do not one problem if you use a fuse like I do. I fuse everything after my car burned to the ground when a shop didn't fuse a wire

[James76]

If this is a NNBS 2007 +, the only switch power source you can safely use inside the cab is at the drivers kick panel area distribution block. Sitting in the drivers seat, it is above and in front of your left foot. It has a picture of a fuse or a battery on the front cover. Remove that cover, and towards the bottom I think either the 2nd from the bottom left open connector area, the very top left pin in that connector tests as Ignition. Use that with a 15a max fuse. If more accessories are needed, run a relay off of that wire and draw power from the many plentiful 12v power wires anywhere in the cab.

Another source lists that same pin as a yellow wire coming out of the back of the distribution block there. As always test test test!

By the way, there is no 12v switched wire at the radio harness. It uses an extremely low current signal commonly referred to as a data signal from the BCM. Hooking anything to this wire can damage the BCM. Be careful! :chair: