View Full Version : Clear coat peeling just on doors below window, how do I fix it?
01-20-2012, 08:38 PM
Without having to paint the doors? Can a shop remove just the clearcoat and reclear it? I buffed the oxidized bare paint (black) and it blends with the rest of the door, but still doesnt look too bueno.
01-24-2012, 05:36 PM
got some pics?
01-24-2012, 08:39 PM
01-24-2012, 08:42 PM
I can't get the pic to zoom in, but the top red line is where the clear has peeled away and I've buffed the paint shiney, looks as good as clear. The bottom line is the clear that is starting to oxidize. I can buff it with cutting compound and it looks like new clear. The line at which the clear is actually peeled is between the two red lines. Sorry, it would make more sense if the pic was blown up.
01-24-2012, 08:43 PM
It's just these two spots, one on each door, about where you would put your elbow if the window was down. Only spots on the truck the clear is peeling. Just bought it a couple weeks ago so don't know the history on it. Sweaty drivers and passengers?
01-24-2012, 08:51 PM
Sounds like a bad repaint job. I had a Toyota truck that did the same thing and it was a bad paint job. Dont know about getting it fixed though.
01-24-2012, 08:54 PM
bunch of things could've caused that but since in the same on both sides it's something the previous owner did.....if you wanna go the "cheap but better than it is" route you can go to napa and get a nice can of clear.....hopefully the single-digit-iq guy behind the counter will be able to help you (i dont really rattle can things so idk where to point you to) and grab some 1000 grit wet-sandpaper and scuff down about 4" around the problem area......clean constantly.....then mask off the truck except for whats scuffed and spray the clear......unmask.....wet-sand with 1500 working your way from before the problem area - thru it - and just past it (basically your final wet-sand will be about the same area as the initial scuff)......wet-sand till it smooths out with the rest of the panel......then clean it and buff it
if you wanna do it right then take it to a shop.....but if you take your time and do what i said it'll come out decent and will protect the paint from needing a door re-sprayed
EDIT: always wet-sand....never dry
01-24-2012, 09:03 PM
hopefully this is easier to understand
1.wet sand flat
3.wet sand flat (no hard lines(paint ridges))
4.buff and dont burn thru
EDIT: SAND THE LEAST AMOUNT OF PAINT AS POSSIBLE!!! totally forgot to mention this.....you're wanting to re-clear, not re-color......factory paint is usually less than 5mm thick......work mainly around the edges to smooth it out.....you do NOT want sanding scratches in your paint
01-25-2012, 06:19 AM
Thanks guys. Yeah it sucks that it's just these small areas and I can't justify getting just the doors sprayed, then they'd look better than the rest of the truck! I'll try the went sanding sometime down the road.
wetsand with 2000 followed by 2500 and 3000. buff and polish. problem solved.
Now, if your clearcoat is peeling there is no saving it. There is no "removing just the clear coat and reclearing. paint does not work that way. The bad clear will be sanded away, the repair area primed, paint blended and panel recleared as a whole.
01-27-2012, 02:22 PM
for the most part this is true if you're going more towards the right way of doing it.....but for a quick fix to prevent it from peeling at a rapid rate, this will be fine....also there's nothing gained by wetsanding with 2000, 2500, then 3000.....after a buff even 1500 scratches disappear.....it really depends on how much clear gets sprayed on.....we've had cars at work that guys want to be "show cars" and we put 8 coats of clear on and start blocking it down with 400 and work our way up to 4000.....but for a regular paint job simply wet sanding the final clear coat with 2000 is perfectly fine and we've had 1 comeback in the last 5yrs (and that was cuz the kid in the wash stall put a small scratch in a rear bumper cover and didnt say anything beore it left)
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