Stall converter

[SS_355_Stripes]

Okay my truck is stock and is my daily driver, so im looking in the range of 2200-2600. Would that be too high, and also is the cooler not in the rad, and if it is what could I do for a cooler?

[SUBURBIAN]

You must be talking about a torque converter (http://www.apsprecision.com/images/How%20Torque%20Converters%20Work.pdf).

It would be a good idea for you to actually go look at your truck and see if there is an external transmission fluid cooler setup on it, instead of asking the internet what your truck (that is probably less than 500' from you right now) has.

[custm2500]

What truck do are you considering. The 89 you will want a very mild stall, the 2001 You would be best in the 3000 range.

[SS_355_Stripes]

I'm talking about my 01, and I'm not near it right now so I thought I'd ask. No need for the tone

[custm2500]

I would put a large cooler on it and 3000 stall. It will make a massive differance in performance.

[SS_355_Stripes]

Would that hurt the drivability cause this truck is my DD, and gas isn't getting any cheaper

[custm2500]

Your millage should stay about the same if you drive like you did. A 3000 stall will feel like stock under most all normal drivin conditions. When you drop the hammer it will be like an entierly differant truck. Traction will quickly become an issue but we have solutions for that problem too.

[SS_355_Stripes]

I don't think the ol 10 bolt would like it too much though lol

[96ImpSS]

Don't worry about that 10-bolt. Those things are tough. The only weak point in some of them is the junk Gov-Lok posi; even then, if you're not doing burnouts, especially with slicks at the track, they can hold up just fine. I abused my stock Gov-Lok for 300,000 miles, including at the track, before swapping it out for an Eaton.
And on driveability with high stall TC's ..... My daily driver is my 98 pickup with a Yank 3600 converter and I'd never go back to stock. 18 mpg winter, 19-20 summer.

[SS_355_Stripes]

I think your the first person ive ever heard to say 10 bolts are strong lol. I'm on my 2nd gov bomb, and with 35s I don't think axles would last to long. I think I'm gonna go with a 2600-2800 should be good for my application.

[96ImpSS]

I think your the first person ive ever heard to say 10 bolts are strong lol. I'm on my 2nd gov bomb, and with 35s I don't think axles would last to long. I think I'm gonna go with a 2600-2800 should be good for my application.Maybe I wasn't clear. The 10 bolt ring & pinion, housing, bearings, etc. are tough enough to deal with any power/gearing/TC 99% of us are ever going to put in these 1/2 ton trucks. The GovLok diffential they put in the truck 10-bolts is JUNK! I made it to 300k in SPITE of it, NOT because of it. Why in the world did you ever put another one in yours???
With a decent posi like the Eaton in it, The 8.5" ring gear 10-bolt will last practically forever. There's very little difference between it and the famed GM 12-bolt (8-7/8" ring gear).
Note: Don't confuse this 10-bolt with the wimpy little 7-5/8" ring gear 10-bolt they put in the small cars.

The Gov-Lok shock loads the rear when it engages, and yes that can break axles. It's just like engaging a locker with one wheel spinning at 30 mph.
There's a 4500 lb 1200 hp ImpalaSS running low 9's with the factory 10-bolt (exact same rear as our 1/2 ton trucks except for the posi) for about 12 years, and he's never broken an axle. If you had gone with a decent posi, you'd never have to worry about yours either.

[custm2500]

The 10 bolt is proving it's self much stronger then many used to beleive it is. Guys are putting 700-1000 hp through them and not braking them. A stall isn't going to effect the longevity of your rear end.

[40oz to Freedom]

My first question would be why do you want a stall converter on a stock truck?

If your after performance you should start somewhere else... Air Cleaner/Cold Air, intake, cam, exhaust, chip.

[96ImpSS]

My first question would be why do you want a stall converter on a stock truck?

If your after performance you should start somewhere else... Air Cleaner/Cold Air, intake, cam, exhaust, chip.
Wow, you have a lot to learn. You've already struck out on 3 of those recommendations :)
Hang out here and read a while ;)

[40oz to Freedom]

Wow, you have a lot to learn. You've already struck out on 3 of those recommendations :)
Hang out here and read a while ;)

lol...

Okay, where does he start? I have to see this!

[96ImpSS]

lol...

Okay, where does he start? I have to see this!
What are you laughing about? At least your response makes more sense since you edited it from your orginal reply:
"whatever... I guess you just magically make power now!"

Anyway, since you asked, He starts with a PCM tune (these trucks haven't used chips since 1995), a TC, exhaust/headers, then cam. Don't have to do them in that order, but bang for the buck will be in that order.
Your recommendations of "Air Cleaner/Cold Air, intake" and "chip" has no place on an '01.

[40oz to Freedom]

Dude... get another hobby!

I thought he was talking about the 89' in his sig... SORRY, I some how missed he had an 01'. Also, my list was in no way meant to be in order.

[custm2500]

A stall is a great first mod for a NBS truck. If I was looking to spend the least money, and biggest bang and had around $1000 or less then a converter and tune would be the ticket. The two should easily drop almost a full second off your 1/4 mile time and increase your daily driving fun by around 1000%. Also both of them are extreamly easy do.

[SS_355_Stripes]

The reason I got another g80 was because it was under warranty when it blew. The second one lasted about 180k's which I thought was good. But I'm going with a 2600 stall

[GREENSIERRA]

I think you would be happier with a 3000. you could easilly DD with it, just get a nice cooler.
I agree with the 10 bolts, I ran 40"s with my 10 bolt and it held up fine. Just swap out the G80. I ran a Tru Trac with 5.13s

[GreenVortec]

Circle D makes a 278mm (stock size converter) that behaves very similar to a stock converter.. it flashes to 3200 rpm..

I will say this though, after you get your stall put in.. MATCH your aftermarket camshaft to the torque converter.

I see people where i live use big 226 duration cams with 2800 converters or "Trailblazer converters" and run dissapointing times at the track. You hit a dead spot in your powerband, making it useless until you climb enough RPM to where your cam makes power.

also, i wanna add that there's little selection of cams that would help with your stall.. most are made more towards 3000+ Converters in mind. LS engines love to Rev, so let the engine do what it does best!:cool: