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View Full Version : A/C - TXV options? (thermostatic expansion valve)



helo
06-22-2012, 01:40 PM
Going to be redoing my '89 burb a/c.
Anybody convert to a TXV system? What valve are you using? I'm totally in the dark on my options so far... An adjustable valve would be ideal. Price is a minimal concern, quality is more important here.

I'm not sure if burb rear TXV is suitable for use in the front; I'm aware of the '72 nova TXV, but I haven't found specs on either. The newer ford cars are using a TXV system and they can get stupid cold. Most/(all?) dodges use a TXV, as well, but I'd rather not constrain myself to r134 by using the later OE valves.


Vortec w/ HT6 compressor. r290 blend (non-smoker, don't rant on flamability/safety/legality). Will be running new lines throughout with stainless and/or Kunifer tube (JIC flares & seals). May upgrade condenser capacity at the same time (current system is recently new transplant from an s10)

My A/C works, but high side port failed and it's capped with a quick connect coupler right now. I will be rebuilding my rear a/c, as well (been on the bench for a while now).

winfred
07-15-2012, 09:22 PM
with a good compressor (not a blasted reman but new) the system will work fine even on r134, till my crap four seasons r4 started dieing my 91 burb would freeze you, a harrison style accumulator system works well as it has a nice big evap and usually a good sized condenser, they make a expansion orifice tube that is good for a couple few degrees cooler then the stock tube, at oreilly they are about $43 instead of $3. the only problem i have with propane in the system is you run such a low volume of liquid the oil doesn't get moved around like it should and can get trapped in useless places, its not really a flammable issue as to even burn it needs to be nearly perfect in its dispersion with air and then it gone, a random fuel leak under the hood is more dangerous as far as i am concerned. add a electric fan to the condenser and if the system is not getting in the 50s (40s on a run) something is defective somewhere. another tip, PAG oil is not good in anything that ever had r12 in it, it turns into sludge in the presence of chlorine, i use ester as it works with everything