MrSpiffy
08-11-2003, 03:30 PM
Please Note: This thread is meant to provide helpful hints, tips, and instructions for detailing your ride. If you have any questions, please post them here. This article is one of my references that I use to spark conversations and discussions. Enjoy!!:cool:
Part 1:
The Ultimate Guide to Show Prep and Detailing
What sets apart a mediocre show presence from a jaw-dropping display which wows all who see it? Lighting? Trophies? What makes a car really “pop”? It is true that it is all items working together, but the quality of the detailing is imperative. Having an impeccable car is a mod in and of itself. Prepare to embark on a journey which, upon completion, will leave you exhausted yet strangely content. Your car will beam in all aspects and heads will turn in marvel as you drive down the street. Welcome to the world of detailing.
**This altogether will take quite a long time, so be sure to set apart 1 ½- 2 days for the whole job**
Exterior:
Products:
Zaino Z1(or ZFX)
Zaino Z2/Z3
Zaino Z5
Zaino Z6
Meguiars #2 Fine-cut Cleaner
Meguiars #1 Medium-cut Cleaner
Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars Show Car Wax (liquid)
Meguiars Quick Detailer
Meguiars SoftBuff Pads (cutting, polishing, and finishing)
Claybar kit (Mothers, Meguiars,or Zaino)
Dawn Dishwashing Liquid [edit] Please see threads #1 and #2 to learn more about Dawn before proceeding. [edit]
California Water Blade
The Absorber
Porter Cable 7424 buffer
Step 1:
It is important to begin with a clean slate when beginning a major paint overhaul. Begin by washing the car with Dawn dishwashing soap. I know this sounds like a detailing sin, but Dawn is perfect for stripping old buildup and leaving the paint clean and ready for the rest of the process. DO NOT make a habit of washing the car with Dawn, however. After washing the car, dry thoroughly with the California Water Blade and Absorber. Be careful to keep the blade clean as any particles can scratch the paint.
Step 2:
Now that the surface is fairly clean, it is time to further remove shine-blocking surface contaminants. A claybar is the best way to further remove harmful particles that inhibit shine and damage paint. It isn’t necessary or advised that you use one every time you clean your car, however I recommend use every 3-4 months depending on your location and the environments car is usually in. However, for show prep. purposes, a claybar is an excellent way to acquire an extra-deep shine. Set aside approximately 1 ½ hours for this step. It is a good idea to wear a pair of surgical gloves while using the claybar. They are helpful in keeping a good grip on it and blocking oils and other impurities from your hands. Fingerprints add oils to the clay and any small particles from dirty hands may cause scratches to the paint. Claybar kits usually come with a bottle of Quick Detailer, or a generic version of it, to use as lube. You can also use a mixture of car wash concentrate (Meguiars Gold Class or Zaino Z7) and water. Be sure to keep the surface wet with this while using the claybar. Spray a small area ( 1-2 sq. ft) and rub clay over paint until it feels smoother and there is less friction. You will be able to tell by touch. When the bottom of the clay begins to turn black, knead it into a ball and re-flatten. Continue like this with the rest of the car.
Step 3:
It is now time to re-wash the car. This time you will use a car wash concentrate. Re-washing will yet further remove contaminants loosened by the claybar and give a final squeaky-clean surface on which you will begin to repair the paint.
Step 4:
It’s time to begin buffing. First off is buffer choice. There are many options out there, from cheap Waxmaster units available at Wal Mart to professional rotary buffers. Unless you are a professional, DO NOT buy a rotary buffer. Instead, use a random orbital unit, or a “civilian” buffer. I do not advise buying a cheap unit, they will not last and do not provide the same results. They are also more likely to CAUSE additional damage. Instead, it is better to invest in a quality unit. The best I have found is the Porter Cable 7424. Doubling as a grinder/sander, this buffer is virtually “idiot-proof” and will give results unattainable by hand. It also has variable speeds, a useful feature in a buffer. With this unit, I recommend Meguiars Soft-Buff foam pads. The designated pad will be mentioned for each step.
When removing scratches, you will always start with the lowest intensity products first and work your way up. In this case, you are going to begin with Meguiars #2 Fine-cut Cleaner (first with a normal polishing pad, then with a foam cutting pad) and, only if needed, #1 Medium-cut Cleaner (polishing pad, then foam cutting pad). Your buffer will also be set to 5000-5200 rpm during this step. Before you begin, take a look at the paint in direct sunlight. Sunlight is the best way to evaluate the extent of your paint damage. Just by knowing what you are dealing with may allow you to predetermine your pad choice. As a rule of thumb, sunlight shows big swirls and scratches, and fluorescent light shows smaller ones. Thus, it is a good idea to back the car in and out of the garage periodically to check your progress. To begin, you are going to spatter a SMALL amount of the cleaner onto a reasonable fraction of the car (i.e. the hood, then door panels, then rear section, etc.). You will continue to work it into the paint until you can no longer see it. To achieve optimum results, work from front to back on flat surfaces, and vertically on side panels. This will enhance the optical quality of your paint and make all angles more vibrant when you are finished. Continue like this until you have covered the whole car. Then mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer. This will remove any dust that has collected and help enhance the shine. I recommend that you use quality, 100% cotton diaper rags to wipe the car. This step may require anywhere from one to four applications fo remove all the scratches.
Step 4:
Zaino vs. Meguiars
From here you can take one of two different paths, Zaino or Meguiars. Both are excellent products and will yield amazing results, but I have found that Zaino polishes are optically superior to Meguiars. The major difference is longevity. The Zaino finish lasts longer than Meguiars, is easier to maintain, and isn’t greasy. The benefit of Meguiars, though, is price. Zaino polishes cost $12.99-$16.99 per 8oz. bottle while Meguiars #7 polish is $8.99 per 16oz. bottle. So you can obviously see the added expense. But, if you are after optimum results and price isn’t as much of an object, Zaino is the way to go. I will still, however, include Meguiars application instructions immediately under the Zaino instructions.
Zaino:
Zaino products work and are applied differently than Meguiars. The main difference is the longer curing time. Each coat of Zaino must cure for 12-24 hours. Thankfully, the makers of Zaino have developed a compound which drastically decreases curing time. ZFX, the compound in question, is mixed with either Z2, Z3, or Z5 and allows multiple coats to be applied in a day. Please note that use of ZFX compound takes away the need for Z1 Polish Lok.
You will begin by applying Z5, a scratch-masking polish. If you plan on using a ZFX enhanced version of this polish, you will add 4-5 drops of ZFX to an ounce of polish. Apply this by hand with a Zaino polish applicator once again following the front to back and vertical technique mentioned earlier. Let this dry for 30 minutes. During this time you can work on detailing another aspect of the car. After Z5 has dried, you will remove it with a large, white, 100% cotton towel. Be sure not to skip little noticed, but still necessary areas such as door sills, trunk and hood lines, and the fuel door. After all, this is detailing. Don’t skip details! After completely removing the polish, mist and wipe the car with Z6 Gloss Enhancer. Although seemingly unnecessary, it really does help to deepen the overall shine. Depending on how many small scratches are left, you may want to repeat this process a few more times. With each application you will notice the scratches and swirls beginning to lessen, however there shouldn’t be many left after use of the paint cleaner.
Now that your paint is close to perfect it is time to develop the shine. At this time your paint is looking pretty good and you may be tempted to stop, however your shine has only begun to show itself. It is time to begin with Z2 or Z3. If your paint is clear coated, you will continue with Z2, if not you will use Z3. Once again, if you are using ZFX enhanced versions of these products you will add 4-5 drops per ounce of polish. This polish will be applied exactly like Z5, following the front to back and vertical pattern. Let this too dry for 30 minutes before removing. Remove this too with a large, soft, 100% cotton towel. Also mist and wipe the car with Z6 Gloss Enhancer between coats. With each additional coat you will notice the shine becoming deeper and clearer. If you have a rich, darker color (like black or red) this step is a must and you may want to apply as many as four coats. Lighter colors (like white or silver) can usually get away with one to two coats. Z2 has a high quality sealer and needs not be topped with anything else.
**Note: You can switch off between coats of Z2/Z3 and Z5, however you should always have Z2/Z3 as a final quote as they have higher optical quality.**
Meguiars:
If you decide to go the Meguiars route you will continue now with Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze. This product isn’t actually a glaze, but rather a pure polish. Polishes have been known to be the real “character-builders” in the paint preparation process. Polishes bring out the deep, clear shine in your paint by feeding it with the oils it so desperately needs. Please note that you CAN use pure polish on new paint. It is non-abrasive and 100% safe. When using #7, take care not to apply too much at a time. When it comes to polish, less is always more. It is far better to apply several thin coats than gobbing on one thick coat. If you notice little specks starting to develop, don’t worry. You need only to keep working them out with your buffer. To begin application, you will spatter a few small dots of polish onto a fraction of the car as you did with the paint cleaner. With your buffer set to 5000-5200 rpm and using a polishing pad, work the polish into the paint until you can no longer see it. Then wipe down the excess with a clean, 100% cotton diaper rag. You will then mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer. You will continue in this manner for a total of 2-3 coats. You will notice the shine becoming deeper and clearer with each application.
**Note: Due to the greasy nature of the Meguiars products, you may wish to let the polish cure for an hour or more before continuing. If you are short on time, it is okay to continue immediately**
Now that your paint is blemish-free (or pretty close), it is time to seal in all the oils you have just fed your paint. Wax is the sealer. Although there are many supporters of carnuba waxes, I prefer Meguiars Gold Class liquid wax. It is easier to apply and is more reflective. This is applied in the same manner as the paint cleaner and polish were, following the front to back and vertical pattern. With your buffer set to 5000-5200 rpm, you will use a polishing pad for this step. As before, work wax into paint until almost unnoticeable. Then, remove with a clean, 100% cotton diaper rag. Be sure to mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer in between coats. I do not condone multiple coats of wax in rapid succession. This will actually KILL a little of your difficultly-earned shine. Instead, allow each coat of wax to cure for a few hours before apply additional coats.
You will now go over the car with the finishing pad. This pad is good for removing any remaining wax residue and developing that little extra shine. Simply work your way around the car quickly with your buffer set to around 5800rpm.
Congratulations! You have now finished bringing your paint up to “Spiffy” specifications. But don’t start resting yet. There is still the interior and other detailing necessities left to be done.
Part 1:
The Ultimate Guide to Show Prep and Detailing
What sets apart a mediocre show presence from a jaw-dropping display which wows all who see it? Lighting? Trophies? What makes a car really “pop”? It is true that it is all items working together, but the quality of the detailing is imperative. Having an impeccable car is a mod in and of itself. Prepare to embark on a journey which, upon completion, will leave you exhausted yet strangely content. Your car will beam in all aspects and heads will turn in marvel as you drive down the street. Welcome to the world of detailing.
**This altogether will take quite a long time, so be sure to set apart 1 ½- 2 days for the whole job**
Exterior:
Products:
Zaino Z1(or ZFX)
Zaino Z2/Z3
Zaino Z5
Zaino Z6
Meguiars #2 Fine-cut Cleaner
Meguiars #1 Medium-cut Cleaner
Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars Show Car Wax (liquid)
Meguiars Quick Detailer
Meguiars SoftBuff Pads (cutting, polishing, and finishing)
Claybar kit (Mothers, Meguiars,or Zaino)
Dawn Dishwashing Liquid [edit] Please see threads #1 and #2 to learn more about Dawn before proceeding. [edit]
California Water Blade
The Absorber
Porter Cable 7424 buffer
Step 1:
It is important to begin with a clean slate when beginning a major paint overhaul. Begin by washing the car with Dawn dishwashing soap. I know this sounds like a detailing sin, but Dawn is perfect for stripping old buildup and leaving the paint clean and ready for the rest of the process. DO NOT make a habit of washing the car with Dawn, however. After washing the car, dry thoroughly with the California Water Blade and Absorber. Be careful to keep the blade clean as any particles can scratch the paint.
Step 2:
Now that the surface is fairly clean, it is time to further remove shine-blocking surface contaminants. A claybar is the best way to further remove harmful particles that inhibit shine and damage paint. It isn’t necessary or advised that you use one every time you clean your car, however I recommend use every 3-4 months depending on your location and the environments car is usually in. However, for show prep. purposes, a claybar is an excellent way to acquire an extra-deep shine. Set aside approximately 1 ½ hours for this step. It is a good idea to wear a pair of surgical gloves while using the claybar. They are helpful in keeping a good grip on it and blocking oils and other impurities from your hands. Fingerprints add oils to the clay and any small particles from dirty hands may cause scratches to the paint. Claybar kits usually come with a bottle of Quick Detailer, or a generic version of it, to use as lube. You can also use a mixture of car wash concentrate (Meguiars Gold Class or Zaino Z7) and water. Be sure to keep the surface wet with this while using the claybar. Spray a small area ( 1-2 sq. ft) and rub clay over paint until it feels smoother and there is less friction. You will be able to tell by touch. When the bottom of the clay begins to turn black, knead it into a ball and re-flatten. Continue like this with the rest of the car.
Step 3:
It is now time to re-wash the car. This time you will use a car wash concentrate. Re-washing will yet further remove contaminants loosened by the claybar and give a final squeaky-clean surface on which you will begin to repair the paint.
Step 4:
It’s time to begin buffing. First off is buffer choice. There are many options out there, from cheap Waxmaster units available at Wal Mart to professional rotary buffers. Unless you are a professional, DO NOT buy a rotary buffer. Instead, use a random orbital unit, or a “civilian” buffer. I do not advise buying a cheap unit, they will not last and do not provide the same results. They are also more likely to CAUSE additional damage. Instead, it is better to invest in a quality unit. The best I have found is the Porter Cable 7424. Doubling as a grinder/sander, this buffer is virtually “idiot-proof” and will give results unattainable by hand. It also has variable speeds, a useful feature in a buffer. With this unit, I recommend Meguiars Soft-Buff foam pads. The designated pad will be mentioned for each step.
When removing scratches, you will always start with the lowest intensity products first and work your way up. In this case, you are going to begin with Meguiars #2 Fine-cut Cleaner (first with a normal polishing pad, then with a foam cutting pad) and, only if needed, #1 Medium-cut Cleaner (polishing pad, then foam cutting pad). Your buffer will also be set to 5000-5200 rpm during this step. Before you begin, take a look at the paint in direct sunlight. Sunlight is the best way to evaluate the extent of your paint damage. Just by knowing what you are dealing with may allow you to predetermine your pad choice. As a rule of thumb, sunlight shows big swirls and scratches, and fluorescent light shows smaller ones. Thus, it is a good idea to back the car in and out of the garage periodically to check your progress. To begin, you are going to spatter a SMALL amount of the cleaner onto a reasonable fraction of the car (i.e. the hood, then door panels, then rear section, etc.). You will continue to work it into the paint until you can no longer see it. To achieve optimum results, work from front to back on flat surfaces, and vertically on side panels. This will enhance the optical quality of your paint and make all angles more vibrant when you are finished. Continue like this until you have covered the whole car. Then mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer. This will remove any dust that has collected and help enhance the shine. I recommend that you use quality, 100% cotton diaper rags to wipe the car. This step may require anywhere from one to four applications fo remove all the scratches.
Step 4:
Zaino vs. Meguiars
From here you can take one of two different paths, Zaino or Meguiars. Both are excellent products and will yield amazing results, but I have found that Zaino polishes are optically superior to Meguiars. The major difference is longevity. The Zaino finish lasts longer than Meguiars, is easier to maintain, and isn’t greasy. The benefit of Meguiars, though, is price. Zaino polishes cost $12.99-$16.99 per 8oz. bottle while Meguiars #7 polish is $8.99 per 16oz. bottle. So you can obviously see the added expense. But, if you are after optimum results and price isn’t as much of an object, Zaino is the way to go. I will still, however, include Meguiars application instructions immediately under the Zaino instructions.
Zaino:
Zaino products work and are applied differently than Meguiars. The main difference is the longer curing time. Each coat of Zaino must cure for 12-24 hours. Thankfully, the makers of Zaino have developed a compound which drastically decreases curing time. ZFX, the compound in question, is mixed with either Z2, Z3, or Z5 and allows multiple coats to be applied in a day. Please note that use of ZFX compound takes away the need for Z1 Polish Lok.
You will begin by applying Z5, a scratch-masking polish. If you plan on using a ZFX enhanced version of this polish, you will add 4-5 drops of ZFX to an ounce of polish. Apply this by hand with a Zaino polish applicator once again following the front to back and vertical technique mentioned earlier. Let this dry for 30 minutes. During this time you can work on detailing another aspect of the car. After Z5 has dried, you will remove it with a large, white, 100% cotton towel. Be sure not to skip little noticed, but still necessary areas such as door sills, trunk and hood lines, and the fuel door. After all, this is detailing. Don’t skip details! After completely removing the polish, mist and wipe the car with Z6 Gloss Enhancer. Although seemingly unnecessary, it really does help to deepen the overall shine. Depending on how many small scratches are left, you may want to repeat this process a few more times. With each application you will notice the scratches and swirls beginning to lessen, however there shouldn’t be many left after use of the paint cleaner.
Now that your paint is close to perfect it is time to develop the shine. At this time your paint is looking pretty good and you may be tempted to stop, however your shine has only begun to show itself. It is time to begin with Z2 or Z3. If your paint is clear coated, you will continue with Z2, if not you will use Z3. Once again, if you are using ZFX enhanced versions of these products you will add 4-5 drops per ounce of polish. This polish will be applied exactly like Z5, following the front to back and vertical pattern. Let this too dry for 30 minutes before removing. Remove this too with a large, soft, 100% cotton towel. Also mist and wipe the car with Z6 Gloss Enhancer between coats. With each additional coat you will notice the shine becoming deeper and clearer. If you have a rich, darker color (like black or red) this step is a must and you may want to apply as many as four coats. Lighter colors (like white or silver) can usually get away with one to two coats. Z2 has a high quality sealer and needs not be topped with anything else.
**Note: You can switch off between coats of Z2/Z3 and Z5, however you should always have Z2/Z3 as a final quote as they have higher optical quality.**
Meguiars:
If you decide to go the Meguiars route you will continue now with Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze. This product isn’t actually a glaze, but rather a pure polish. Polishes have been known to be the real “character-builders” in the paint preparation process. Polishes bring out the deep, clear shine in your paint by feeding it with the oils it so desperately needs. Please note that you CAN use pure polish on new paint. It is non-abrasive and 100% safe. When using #7, take care not to apply too much at a time. When it comes to polish, less is always more. It is far better to apply several thin coats than gobbing on one thick coat. If you notice little specks starting to develop, don’t worry. You need only to keep working them out with your buffer. To begin application, you will spatter a few small dots of polish onto a fraction of the car as you did with the paint cleaner. With your buffer set to 5000-5200 rpm and using a polishing pad, work the polish into the paint until you can no longer see it. Then wipe down the excess with a clean, 100% cotton diaper rag. You will then mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer. You will continue in this manner for a total of 2-3 coats. You will notice the shine becoming deeper and clearer with each application.
**Note: Due to the greasy nature of the Meguiars products, you may wish to let the polish cure for an hour or more before continuing. If you are short on time, it is okay to continue immediately**
Now that your paint is blemish-free (or pretty close), it is time to seal in all the oils you have just fed your paint. Wax is the sealer. Although there are many supporters of carnuba waxes, I prefer Meguiars Gold Class liquid wax. It is easier to apply and is more reflective. This is applied in the same manner as the paint cleaner and polish were, following the front to back and vertical pattern. With your buffer set to 5000-5200 rpm, you will use a polishing pad for this step. As before, work wax into paint until almost unnoticeable. Then, remove with a clean, 100% cotton diaper rag. Be sure to mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer in between coats. I do not condone multiple coats of wax in rapid succession. This will actually KILL a little of your difficultly-earned shine. Instead, allow each coat of wax to cure for a few hours before apply additional coats.
You will now go over the car with the finishing pad. This pad is good for removing any remaining wax residue and developing that little extra shine. Simply work your way around the car quickly with your buffer set to around 5800rpm.
Congratulations! You have now finished bringing your paint up to “Spiffy” specifications. But don’t start resting yet. There is still the interior and other detailing necessities left to be done.