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  • Door Adjustment

    I own a 1997 Yukon 2dr. When I bought the truck the drivers door seemed to be sagging so I replaced the hinge bushings. Unfortunately, this didn't help. Upon further inspection of the door it does seem to be repainted so it is possible that it's been replaced. I don't see any damage in the cowl area so I figure it was probably a minor repair.

    The problem I find is that I see no way to adjust the hinge??? Is that possible? It appears that the hinge is welded to the cowl and the door.....that just seems crazy.

    So the question is: Before I start taking the kick panel off and apart to see if the adjustments can be made from the inside....are the hinges welded? And if the are welded, how do I remove the hinge from the cowl? Is it stitch welded around the edge or spot welded? There is a sealer around both top and bottom hinges so before I start digging at it I'd like to know what I'm looking at here.

    Thanks for any help,
    Steve

  • #2
    Re: Door Adjustment

    Hello, yes they are welded on, once you have have gotten the pins and bushings back in good shape, which its sounds like you have, if you still have sagging, you need a tool that is used to adjust these types of welded on door hinges. The tool fits between the latch and the striker and allows you to move the whole door including the hinges up or down as needed to correct the misalignment. I know that eastwood sells the tool, I am sure other places do to. Take it easy and good luck.

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    • #3
      Re: Door Adjustment

      I was just about to ask the same question. I changed my pass side pins and bushings and the body line is still about 1/8" off from the body line on the rear door. The body line from the rear door to the quarter panel is perfect. So I guess I will be buying the tool from Eastwood before I start doing my body work. Thanks.

      Here is a link http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
      2001 Mustang BULLITT - DHG #01737 www.imboc.com
      2004 Yukon XL - My Daily - 06 Silvy FR clip - Tahoe 20s - 2/3 drop
      2007 Tahoe LT - Wife's Daily - Silverado VHO 20s
      1993 Integra - Solo2 - www.delta-scca.org

      My wife says I am too old to still be playing with cars and trucks.

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      • #4
        Re: Door Adjustment

        How difficult was it to replace the hinge pins?
        1995 Chevy 1500 Regular Cab, 5.7L 350, Auto trans

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        • #5
          Re: Door Adjustment

          Thanks guys,

          I appreciate the help. Still can't believe that GM would weld both sides????

          Replacing the bushings is real easy....Pull the hinge pin, pop out the old and tap in the new.

          Steve

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          • #6
            Re: Door Adjustment

            I also have to replace my hinges on the driver side, might just do the passenger also. One of the pins is broken and cannot be removed unless you replace the whole hinge.
            http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cd/full.asp?page=14
            1990 Chevrolet RCSB powered * 2002 LS1/4L60E
            Originally posted by JWolfe75
            There is a retard in every bunch......if you look around and can't see one........guess what? :lol:

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            • #7
              Re: Door Adjustment

              Is this the only place to buy the door hinges? Probably just me being cheap but they seem kinda high, but LMC always seems kinda high to me.

              L

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              • #8
                Re: Door Adjustment

                The whole hinge rarely needs to be replaced. But yes, the new replacement hinges ARE expensive no matter where you get them.

                The most common problem is the top hole in the door portion of the hinge gets egged-out from the pin beating on it while the door sags. Since there's no bushing there, it's not easily fixable. Your choice is to either replace the hinge, or weld-hack the one you have. Considering the expense and hassle of replacing it, I don't mind suggesting the hack.

                Support the door from the rear whether you use a floor jack and block of wood, or pick it up by the window frame with a hoist (wrap the frame with a towel so you don't damage it.) That way you're taking the slack and moving it forward, the door is higher in the rear than it would normally be at proper resting position.

                If your upper pin has the retainer in place, remove it. Grind a small area around the hole, then grind a clean spot on the same portion of the hinge for the ground clamp. Weld the smallest amount possible to bridge the gap, capturing the pin with it. You want to do enough to be sure it penetrates so it's strong, but don't weld TOO much because if you ever need to remove the door later you don't have much room in there to grind your weld out.

                Richard

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                • #9
                  Re: Door Adjustment

                  yeah, my driver's door shuts hard, and I know the pins and bushings are brand new. hopefully a visit to the frame shop fixes it

                  Dmax

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                  • #10
                    Re: Door Adjustment

                    By the way, I'm not a fan of that tool for adjusting the hinges. It puts the entire load on the striker bolt, which is on thin enough sheetmetal. It's a little awkward but I prefer to use a jack and a 4x4 block of wood under the rear corner of the door, against the flat part - don't put it under the door edge or you'll ruin the door skin.

                    This is the damage that comes from extremely bad hinge bushings letting the latch beat the crap out of the striker, but it shows you the sheetmetal that supports it is not very strong; I wouldn't want to adjust my door hinges using the striker bolt:



                    Richard

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                    • #11
                      Re: Door Adjustment

                      Another thing to check for misaligned door s is sagging cab mounts. If the front left of right mount has deteriorated (they live right in the road spray of the front wheels) the body twists slightly and comes out of alignment, which usually shows up as a sagging door. I will give you all the symptoms of bad door bushings (IE: misalignment, hard closing, fender gap smaller at top than bottom, etc)

                      If you live in rust country, the frame cab brackets often rust through which allows the rubber mount to push down through the mount hole or punch right through if it's bad enough.

                      If you want to check, take a floor jack and slightly jack up on the front cab mount bolt. You're not trying to jack the vehicle off the ground, but simply see if the cab moves up. If the door comes into alignment as the jack takes up some weight (it doesn't take much), suspect your cab mounts or the frame bracket....

                      Do not jack on the floor pan!

                      It's not always the problem, but that's what was wrong with mine. The 2" cab mount bracket hole had opened up enough from rust that the rubber mount had pushed though and twisted the cab. I simply cut a patch plate with a 2" hole, fitted it into the rusted bracket and welded 'er up.

                      Problem solved.
                      Last edited by gr8twhite; 12-30-2009, 04:19 PM.
                      Detroit 6.5L Turbo Diesel
                      400,000 kms and still rattling.....

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                      • #12
                        Re: Door Adjustment

                        I think I am going to try the weld trick. If that doesnt work Ill replace the hinge. Think just replacing the top hinge would do the trick or would I need upper and lower? The price isnt that bad if you are just buying one hinge, I was looking at buying all four which would get it up there pretty high. I know leaving the door like it is too long will destroy the sheet metal around the striker and that is the main reason I want to fix this.

                        L

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                        • #13
                          Re: Door Adjustment

                          supported the door and welded infront of the pin. Thought it was fixed but when we let it back down the door itself flexed where it meets the hinge and let it sag down too far. Now im thinking I might need a new door. I am going to try jacking it up to ajust it tomorrow but I dont think its going to work. At this point what can it really hurt, though. Thanks guys.

                          L

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                          • #14
                            Re: Door Adjustment

                            Sounds like your door sheetmetal itself may be cracked where the hinge welds to it. I've seen one like this so far. Get a bright light in there and have someone move the door up and down while you watch.

                            Richard

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                            • #15
                              Re: Door Adjustment

                              I did what you suggested Richard and didnt see a crack. Jacking the door up also didnt do jack. As soon as i let the pressure off the jack and let the door back down it just sags back down to where it was before. I have only made things worse because now the door doesnt want to open without hanging up on the striker.

                              L

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