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  • 383 Stroker/ good motor

    I have a 1994 Chevy Z71 1500 4x4 and am getting ready to make it my project rig this spring! I have a question on the (Chevy 383 Stroker), im looking into having a crazy tow rig out of my truck. My question is whats needed to build a 383 stroker out of my 5.7 350??! My plan is already to go from T.E.S Flowmaster headers to 3" pipes to for each header skip the cat, so (T.E.S Headers, 3" pipes, flowmaster super 44s out in front of each rear tire. so my main questions is the motor here??! Price range for motor is around $1800.00

  • #2
    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    hey & welcome, you may get some good advice on this forum, but i will do my best b4 you get misguided.

    you need to have a machine shop bore you 350 .030 over. then you need to purchase a 383 crankshaft which is really a 400 stroke = 3.75 but it has the 350 journals. (it will bolt right up) get a 400 balancer for the front, and use a 350 flexplate in the rear. as the crankshaft should also be a 1pc rear main seal.

    that and a cam a little bigger than what you got or better suited for your needs, you want a small duration since you want bottom end and tq. PM if you have more questions. but i got a nasty 383 stroker and its no 350 by all means.

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    • #3
      Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

      Originally posted by 2012
      hey & welcome, you may get some good advice on this forum, but i will do my best b4 you get misguided.
      pot, meet kettle


      He is correct, but with this added displacement, you know the engine will need to be pulled, rotating assembly, cam FOR the added displacement, then heads if you really want to take advantage of such displacment. Just forwarning you, other than making the motor bigger, you need the rest of the combo, to support it.

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      • #4
        Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

        Originally posted by 2012
        383 crankshaft which is really a 400 stroke = 3.75 but it has the 350 journals. (it will bolt right up) get a 400 balancer for the front, and use a 350 flexplate in the rear. as the crankshaft should also be a 1pc rear main seal.
        There will be some grinding to allow some additional clearance for the crank throws (they will contact the block in some places). Also you need new pistons with higher pin locations. Check out this kit from Eagle:

        http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku

        I would recommend having a machine shop assemble it all just to make sure it all fits and not do any boring until you have all your parts.
        Last edited by bwood; 01-15-2009, 05:10 PM.
        1998 GMC Sierra SLE 1/2 ton 2WD 305 Vortec
        -Gibson Stainless Cat Back Swept Side
        -255/70 BFG Radial T/A on SS 15's


        :nutkick:

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

          Originally posted by bwood
          I would recommend having a machine shop assemble it all just to make sure it all fits and not do any boring until you have all your parts.
          much agreed, but I'd have the machine shop bore first, before ordering rotating assembly, just to make sure it can be .030, not .040, or .060, then have the wrong pistons and rings.

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          • #6
            Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

            i Always purchase the rotating assembly or pistons before having the block bored! That way i know the piston to bore clearance is going to be dead on, depending on what type of piston i use!
            Last edited by papa_smurf49319; 01-15-2009, 06:16 PM.
            1990 k1500 Silverado Z71, Built TH 350, 3" Body Lift, 33x12.50x15, 383 Stroker, 6" Rods, KB Pistons, MSD, Holley 750 Carb,Vic Jr Intake 2800 Stall Torque Converter,NOS Cheater System, 20 Gal Fuel Cell, Voodoo Cam

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

              I would definitely purchase the rotating assembly before you have the machine shop bore the block. That way everything fits perfectly. And also if you get an internally balanced crank you dont have to use the 400 balancer. Either way doesn't make much difference. When I built my 383 I used the Eagle rotating assembly, everything worked great. Good luck with the build... keep us posted.

              1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 8" Lift, 35 x 10.50 x 15 Boggers, 350, 4-Speed, Dual Flowmaster

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

                hope you all never have an engine that has to go .040, because .030 wasn't enough...you'll have some swapping to do

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

                  Any competent machinist can look at the block and let you know if .030 will clean it up. Bore gauges are made for that reason. Once you know what will clean up the bores get the pistons and then have the block bored. The clearance required for the pistons depends on the material and type; forged or cast.

                  I built my first 383 back in 1983. I started with a 400 crank and ground it to have the 350 mains and made it a small journal crank to get rod 2 cam clearance. Roller cams were way expensive back then.

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                  • #10
                    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

                    eh, to each their own I guess. When I had my virgin block 509 casting 400, they wanted to bore it first to make sure it'd make the cut to .030.
                    I guess it depends on the age, look of the block, and bore at the time.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

                      I stand by my 'competent' statement. In the hundreds of blocks I've run a boring bar through I've never had one not make what I said it would.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

                        might as well swap to roller cam while you're at it. Comp Xtreme 4x4 cams are pretty good. A 08-411-8 might be a good one to look at. If memory serves me right, I think that and a vortec headed 383 will push 480 ft/lbs at 2000 rpm. That's where you need it for towing
                        Last edited by 93ChevyTBI; 01-16-2009, 10:20 AM.
                        1993 Chevy 5.7 tbi Z71, vortec heads, GMPP tbi vortec intake, 2" TBI and bored intake, TBI spacer, Comp Cams 08-409-8 XTREME 4x4 roller cam conversion, Hedman full length headers, 3" body lift, 33" tires, Paxton Performance tune (aka 94Blazer383), 4.10's, Hypertech powercharger, built 4l60e.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

                          Originally posted by Polecat
                          hope you all never have an engine that has to go .040, because .030 wasn't enough...you'll have some swapping to do
                          In that case you should be able to tell by looking at it!, and maybe a couple of measurments
                          Last edited by papa_smurf49319; 01-16-2009, 10:44 AM.
                          1990 k1500 Silverado Z71, Built TH 350, 3" Body Lift, 33x12.50x15, 383 Stroker, 6" Rods, KB Pistons, MSD, Holley 750 Carb,Vic Jr Intake 2800 Stall Torque Converter,NOS Cheater System, 20 Gal Fuel Cell, Voodoo Cam

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

                            Originally posted by IBOHUNT
                            I stand by my 'competent' statement. In the hundreds of blocks I've run a boring bar through I've never had one not make what I said it would.
                            good for you then...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

                              I know you listed a budget of around $1800, but check the GM Performance HT383

                              http://www.sdparts.com/product/12499...P435ftlbs.aspx

                              More:

                              http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/En...9101&engCat=sb

                              This is a new block, Vortec head, roller cam 383 from GM. It uses the standard 4.00" 350 bore but jump to a 3.8" stroke crank. Something to remember if you do go with Vortec heads and want to reuse your TBI, you will need a different intake to mate the two:

                              http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
                              1998 GMC Sierra SLE 1/2 ton 2WD 305 Vortec
                              -Gibson Stainless Cat Back Swept Side
                              -255/70 BFG Radial T/A on SS 15's


                              :nutkick:

                              Comment

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