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  • Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

    1996 Chevy Tahoe. 5.7 L with oil cooler in the radiator.

    I have a leak around the oil filter housing (pretty common I guess).

    The reseal kit is pretty cheap (~$4.00 for Dorman part #82560).

    2 Questions:

    1. Do I have to remove the oil cooler lines to replace the seals?

    2. If I have to remove the old cooler lines is there a trick to it? The fitting that screws into the oil filter adapter has a round nylon ring just to the front of it. Any special tools or technique to removing these lines?


    Thanks!!!

  • #2
    Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

    unless the lines are siezed tight(won't spin), then there is no need to remove them


    if you want to remove them, you pop the plastic ring off the fitting(slide it down the line), then you remove the wire clip with a pick tool
    ASE Master Certified Technician

    2000 Silverado 6.0 4L80E 2wd
    *RIP*1994 Z71 SCLB 355, Dart Heads, 10.5:1 CR, PM rods, CC XR270HR

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    • #3
      Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

      If you do deceied to remove the oil cooler lines, go to the dealer and pick up a few new plastic retainer clips before you start your project. The clips seem to break upon removal and they cost about 5.00 each.

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      • #4
        Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

        Originally posted by s2a0d0i5e
        If you do deceied to remove the oil cooler lines, go to the dealer and pick up a few new plastic retainer clips before you start your project. The clips seem to break upon removal and they cost about 5.00 each.
        Are these plastic clips a dealer only item?

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        • #5
          Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

          You can leave the lines attached to the adaptor, it wont hurt anything. I bought a felpro gasket set at Advance for about $8.00. It came with a few gaskets that I didnt need.

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          • #6
            Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

            Originally posted by 900driver
            You can leave the lines attached to the adaptor, it wont hurt anything. I bought a felpro gasket set at Advance for about $8.00. It came with a few gaskets that I didnt need.
            same here. paper gasket and an O-ring. each oil cooler line has an O-ring as well. pretty easy to replace
            1997 Sierra Z71 4x4 5.7L Vortec
            1994 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.7L TBI

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            • #7
              Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

              Resealed the Oil Filter Adapter in my Suburban today during an oil change (still need to do the same on my Tahoe). Here are my notes:

              1996 GMC Suburban. 5.7L Automatic. 127,000 Miles.

              I used "Help" kit 82560 (manufactured by Dorman Products):



              Here is a link to the kit: https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...gory_list=:0:0

              Cost: $3.99

              -I used the round o-ring in the upper right and the flat gasket in the lower right as shown in the above photo. The rest of the seals are for "other" applications.

              -Didn't need to remove or loosen the oil cooler lines but I did need to remove the "bracing rod" that is there so I could push the adapter forward far enough where I see the entire cavity and could scrape the old gasket out.

              -The old flat paper gasket was a pain to scrape out. It was hardened and stuck to the block with age and basically came out in small tiny pieces as I scraped it with a razor blade. The new flat gasket in the kit is steel sandwiched between 2 paper gaskets; I'm sure this will seal much better than the old one. I used some Vaseline to hold it in place while I fit the adapter back to the block.

              -The round o-ring fit well but make sure it is seated in the groove before you mate the adapter back to the block.

              Start to finish was around ~1 hour.

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              • #8
                Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

                Nice info. Maybe now I'll stop putting this off, and get it fixed.

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                • #9
                  Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

                  I need to replace mine in my 97 Silverado started leaking really bad last week. $10 for Felpro kit at NAPA. So thanks for the info. Makes it way easier that i got a lift to put it on.
                  Last edited by budlight_87; 11-27-2012, 01:50 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

                    anybody know the gm part # for the adapter? I have replaced the gaskets and it still leaks only when the engine is not running.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

                      You don't need replace the oil cooler adaptor. When you install new gasket (rubber O-ring), coat it with some RTV, the leak should be stopped. See the 4th pix in the link:

                      http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...ler-lines.html

                      The orange color rubber O-ring is old one, when new one is installed. coat it both side with RTV sealant.


                      Originally posted by 09vector View Post
                      anybody know the gm part # for the adapter? I have replaced the gaskets and it still leaks only when the engine is not running.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

                        Do the two bolts need to be tourqued? and if so Do you new the pounds??

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                        • #13
                          Re: Question about re-sealing the oil filter adapter housing

                          I replaced The seals and lines at the same time as the lines are another engineering feat of leaky failure. As for torque I go with the old German specs of gudintite. The old inner paper gasket is a pain it the butt to get off as its sealed to the block really well. The thing still leaks a little but I'm not feeling ambitious enough nor is it leaking bad enough to pull down and hit with rtv. Besides. I have power steerin lines to replace. Again. Time to go braided steel I think.

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