is there any reason you didnt want to go through the firewall?
This is a discussion on How to run Power wire! within the Audio/Video Electronics forums, part of the General Discussion category; I Figured since I see people asking how to run Power with out going thru the firewall I though I ...
I Figured since I see people asking how to run Power with out going thru the firewall I though I would document how I did mine W/ pleanty of pics..
First off you have to have some idea on how you want to run the wire. In my case I knew I wanted to run it under the truck. I knew exacty where it was going to plug into too.
I used a drill bit that was a little bigger than the wire. You don't want too tight of a fit.Always make sure to run a groumet when going in and out of metal! (which I havent installed yet!)
Now that you have a starting point, Look for ways to route your wires away from moving objects and Extream Heat. To secure it to the underside of the cab I used 1/2" cable clamps. Make sure you know what your drilling into, see whats behind it if you can, you don't want to put a hole into something that should'nt have a hole in it!
at First I wanted to run it along the Passenger side frame, but found I didnt want to drill into the frame.. So I ran it along the drivers side frame utilizing the existing cables and fuel lines to tie wrap too..
Next I went over the top of the tranny crossmember..
is there any reason you didnt want to go through the firewall?
next i had to run it up into the engine compartment.. Here is a criticle part. Make sure you do not tie wrap to the steering coloum or you will find it hard to steer. I went up along some wires (I'm not a mechanic) Making sure to keep away from moving parts and heat..
now thats it is in the engine compartment we have to get it to the battery or fuse. I found it easy to route it along the firewall..
Then I decided I would go through the Junction box (I think that's what it is called) you do not have to do this step but it was in and out using less wire instead of going around it or under it..
next I ran it under the intake then to the fuse holder..
and this is what it looks like when opening the hood...
why I had the chance I also ran a ground from the Bat. to the frame..
I tesed the wire inside the cab with a multi meter and its holding 14 1/2 volts..
I next drove around the block to see if anyting would come loose and test my connections and everyhting is good..
One step I havent done yet is make sure to wrap the wire in a protecter to keep it from the elements..
This is just one way of running it with out going thru the firewall..
I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS WAY!
Granted its a car but do you really want to show your PWR wire off?
probably because he is running 1/0 and didn't want to have to snake it through the interior. I am running my 4Ga under the body so that in the future, when and if I upgrade to 1/0, I won't have to modify too much of the install.Originally Posted by jaredcc86
Also, it's tough to hide 1/0 under anything in the cab. Its a pretty hefty wire, I think it's 1/3" internal diameter, so what, 2/3 to 1" external diameter. That's hard to hide.
03 Silverado ECSB (4.8L)
Kenwood x979 (w/ Sirius, Aux iPod) - Memphis MCA3004 - Crystal SSCS6 - Memphis 1000D - SI BM 12 (2.25 ft^3@32)
Why not just through the firewall, under the carpet? The edge of the trans hump can pretty well hide anything. Thats how I have always run mine...I'm not a huge fan of wires under my truck.
Last edited by Quyonmob; 12-03-2006 at 01:26 PM.
Originally Posted by Quyonmob
this was exactly my thought. I would rather not drill into the underside of my cab either.
I mean, the work he did looks good and i wouldnt be worried about much. But to have high end equipment powered by a wire thats running all over underneath your vehicle doenst seem like the best way.
i got 2/0 running in my truck through the fire wall and under the carpet cant even tell it was there
WOW seems like alot of people have a problem with hideing the wire under the truck.. Through the firewall under the carpet is not they way I wanted to go. Now it's totaly hidden and right where I wanted it to be! I'm allready running two sets of rca's, two sets of cables for the comps, remote wire I did not need a 1/0 cable running through there also.
Why did u choose to skip using a grommet?Originally Posted by btnhtillidie
Last edited by Quyonmob; 12-03-2006 at 06:21 PM.
Better hope you never go down gravel roads. That wire would be beat to sh!t in no time.
1991 C1500 Ext. Scrapped. I still have the engine, tranny and Detroit tru-trac.
2005 GTO LS2 with full Pedders track II suspension. StreetsweeperHT cam with Kooks exhaust. Tuned.
I wouldn't do it like that..........( . )( . )............
he will have no problems running it under the truck. he ran it right alone the frame - high from the ground, especially with some wire loom around it.
- 99 Silverado - retired to spare vehicle
Black headlights/turnsignals/taillights- 6K HID Low beams, back on stock rims. current project/DD 99 jeep TJ
I don't really know much, but the least amount of wire = more power to the system...example........20 feet of cables boosting a truck = crap ...less is better! ..........( . )( . ).......also the clamps that hold it to the truck should have rubber on themOriginally Posted by 99silveradoguy
That needs loom on the underside otherwise you should expect problems. Just so you know NBS trucks have a nifty little hole pre-drilled by GM and a groove in the rubber footboard to run the 1/0. This with carpet is 100% completely unnoticeable.
No promises on everyone else looking like this, but my 2002 does and took me just a couple of minutes to run. I ran it over the deadening and the ensolite in case I ever want to alter it. GM was nice enough to just use that black tar stuff to seal the hole which I reused to hold the grommet in place and seal everything up. The door grooves are sweet for the speaker wire as well.
1991 BMW M5 -- Eclipse 8454, Eclipse PA5532, Seas W18E IB, Alpine-Scan D2904/6000, SoundSplinter Rli8 .65 tuned to 30hz
2002 Chevy Silverado -- 880prs, Seas CA18RNX, LPG 25nfa, Mach 5 IXL-12, JL 1000/1 & 450/4
Any reason you couldn't have run it down the passenger side? That way you wouldn't have the cable runnin across the engine compartment. Just a suggestion...
I ran the wire under my truck but thats a waste of wire imo and looks a little wierd in the engine compartment. But I haven't seen any problem running it under the truck.
What I did was run it on the passenger side and ran it in the channel on the cab. there is about a foot of exposed wire for the entire run. If you look at the bottom of the cab, you'll see rubbber "grommets" that go into the channel of the cab. I'll try to get pics up.
The more wiring that is exposed to the elements the more chance of problems. I don't care how carefully you arte about routing it away from heat and tying it to the frame, there is an enormous amount of radiant heat under the body and the elements will attack the wire covering. Running wire that pulls that kind amperage outside is asking for long term problems.
By the way, I use welding cable and still route it inside. That pretty stereo power wire is not designed for outside use. The covering is not rated for extended exposure.
Removing road reflectors in a neighborhood near you- Dennis