They usually say 1 farad per 1000W. If i remember correctly.
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This is a discussion on what size capacitor should i get within the Audio/Video Electronics forums, part of the General Discussion category; i just bought a new system for my truck and i think the cap that came with it is junk ...
i just bought a new system for my truck and i think the cap that came with it is junk or it is to small. im not real sure. anyways i have 2 alpine type x's and a jl 1000.1 amp. what size cap should i get for this amp?
91 1/2ton silverado - my dd but may still do a straight axle conversion
82 chevy - 4in lift, 35's, 4.10's new muddin toy
They usually say 1 farad per 1000W. If i remember correctly.
wtf?? Who is they, the tard squad that is the dumbest thing I have read on here lately.Originally Posted by ikon
You really don't need a cap, it is a bandaid at best. Upgrade your big three and you won't have any troubles.
1991 BMW M5 -- Eclipse 8454, Eclipse PA5532, Seas W18E IB, Alpine-Scan D2904/6000, SoundSplinter Rli8 .65 tuned to 30hz
2002 Chevy Silverado -- 880prs, Seas CA18RNX, LPG 25nfa, Mach 5 IXL-12, JL 1000/1 & 450/4
heh. read it off some website. lmao
Originally Posted by ///M5
actually that cap did make a difference in my truck. the voltage gauge never moved when i put this system in my truck and not to long after we put everything in the digital read out on the cap started flickering and wasnt reading that well. now it doesnt read at all but was still working fine. well not something must have happened to it cuz now my voltage gauges moves alot. real close to hitting the read.
i just talked to afew people i know and they were telling me to go with a 1-2 farad cap. now my question is is there a certain brand capacitor that is better then another?
91 1/2ton silverado - my dd but may still do a straight axle conversion
82 chevy - 4in lift, 35's, 4.10's new muddin toy
Some people tend to think caps dont work and some tend to think they do.
Well i agree that caps arent worth the time and money.. you need to get a good high amp altenator.. an optima yellow top... and good wiring kit... running 8 guage to an 1000w amp isnt gonna feed it... thats like giving a grown man a happy meal.... its still starving... caps are used for burping a system... like in a competition... its made for a short loud burst of music... hence the word burp.... it holds a charge for a few seconds thats it.... anyhow goodluck... ant
2007 Sierra Classic Crew Cab
Airaid CAI, Magnaflow Magnapack on order
G80 w/ 3:73
Caddy handles w/ painted buckets
Street Scene Chrome Speed Grill *thanks baby*
TYC Clear Corners and Cleared Headlights
22" BOSS 313, Toyo Proxes
I wouldn't waste my money on a cap. The only thing a cap is doing is temporarily hiding the problem. Start off by making sure you are getting everything you can out of your charging system. As mentioned above, do the big 3 first. It's cheap and easy to do, and it may solve your problem or at least improve the situation. Also make sure you are running the proper size wire for your amp and that all your connections and grounds are good. If that doesn't help, then your alternator isn't big enough to handle the load you are putting on it. Put in a bigger alt, and also upgrade your battery at the same time if you haven't already. I know it's more expensive than installing a cap, but it'll actually fix the problem at the source. A cap doesn't really fix anything. I'd only put one in if it's a show vehicle and you need a bunch of bling to show off.
well im runnin a 4ga wire to the amp. and i never had a problem with that volt gauge dropping at all until tonite. im just curious what people thing a good brand cap is to go with becuase i think it does help me. i know some of you say it doesnt but ive had the system in there for a little while now and never had a problem with it until tonite
91 1/2ton silverado - my dd but may still do a straight axle conversion
82 chevy - 4in lift, 35's, 4.10's new muddin toy
I need one and sense my subs and amp are power acoustik im going with the power acustik 1.5 Farad.
i duno im gunna get my 2.5 farad cap back from my buddy and put that back in the truck cuz i guess he isnt going ot use it anymore.
also how much bigger of an alt can i go with without spending a few hundred dollars? the one in my truck now like a 100 or 105 amp. oh and its a 91 silverado if it makes a difference
91 1/2ton silverado - my dd but may still do a straight axle conversion
82 chevy - 4in lift, 35's, 4.10's new muddin toy
Don't waste your money. I have a 1000/1 and a 450/4 and have also had a PG zx475ti running all at the same time in my truck with absolutely NO dimming. All I did was the big three. The cap may have helped your lights, but it isn't helping your stereo at all and thus is a bandaid that is just hiding your problem. If you want to be dumb and waste your money go ahead and buy a cap, but otherwise wake up and upgrade your wiring.
1991 BMW M5 -- Eclipse 8454, Eclipse PA5532, Seas W18E IB, Alpine-Scan D2904/6000, SoundSplinter Rli8 .65 tuned to 30hz
2002 Chevy Silverado -- 880prs, Seas CA18RNX, LPG 25nfa, Mach 5 IXL-12, JL 1000/1 & 450/4
i checked that "big 3" post out and im a little confused as to what i need to do. my truck isnt a newer one like the one u have or the one in that post mine is a 91.
oh and im not buyin a cap anymore im just getting my old 2.5 farad cap back that i sold with my last system
Last edited by chevystudz7105; 02-24-2007 at 04:01 AM.
91 1/2ton silverado - my dd but may still do a straight axle conversion
82 chevy - 4in lift, 35's, 4.10's new muddin toy
It won't do anything. I dare you to do a search on the web and prove me wrong, you won't be able. The cap is a waste of space for the purpose you have for it. Sell the 2.5 when you get it and pocket enough money to to the big 3.
Basically for your truck you need to run a 0/1 gauge wire from the 1) alt+ to the battery+, 2) the engine block to the frame/chassis (this would be a ground), 3) battery - to the frame/chassis
You will need ring terminals to do this of course and the wire. If you measure first, you can go to a welding supply store and even have them put the ends on for you. For measuring, I'd recommend running a piece of string and cutting it to length as then you can screw up.
1991 BMW M5 -- Eclipse 8454, Eclipse PA5532, Seas W18E IB, Alpine-Scan D2904/6000, SoundSplinter Rli8 .65 tuned to 30hz
2002 Chevy Silverado -- 880prs, Seas CA18RNX, LPG 25nfa, Mach 5 IXL-12, JL 1000/1 & 450/4
The big 3 is very easy. As an electrical person, I would be the first to tell you the best way to increase the power to your amps is to allow them more room to breathe. The big 3 is like adding bigger pipe or larger cylinders on an engine. Giving more room for power transfer and not starving your amp of power. A cap is just gonna temporarily cover up the problem but it really just asking for a fire or other problem to occur in the future. I would also recommend upgrading your wiring from battery to amp to 2 AWG or 1/0. That way you can get plenty of power. Also, don't trust your guages to tell you voltage. Put a voltmeter inline and read the RMS readings. This is 100% better than the stock instruments. Just some information, and I may sound like a broken record, but if you ask for advice and 99% of people tell you to not use the cap but you use it anyways, don't say we didn't warn you.
03 Silverado ECSB (4.8L)
Kenwood x979 (w/ Sirius, Aux iPod) - Memphis MCA3004 - Crystal SSCS6 - Memphis 1000D - SI BM 12 (2.25 ft^3@32)
Originally Posted by TheOtherSide
ive also heard plenty of horror stories with caps catching the interior of a car on fire.
1999 Chevy Silverado z71, 6inch Fabtech, 35" Claws,westin one peice brush gaurd, straight pipes, 5% tint, Pioneer H/U, 2 L7 12's, PA2400DB, 1/0 everywhere.
im not sayin any of you are wrong about anything. i appreciate everyones help. and as for the wire to do the big 3 upgrade that isnt a problem my brother in law has a 100 foot roll of welding wire. not sure the size but that should work fine shouldnt it? when it gets a little warmer out i will prolly get around to doin that. working outside on a truck in the winter sucks.
91 1/2ton silverado - my dd but may still do a straight axle conversion
82 chevy - 4in lift, 35's, 4.10's new muddin toy
Welding wire comes in all sizes. IMO you should be running 0/1 for your big 3 and all the way to your amplifier. The 1000/1 won't need quite all of that, but it will allow you to add a front stage amp and experience no dimming.
1991 BMW M5 -- Eclipse 8454, Eclipse PA5532, Seas W18E IB, Alpine-Scan D2904/6000, SoundSplinter Rli8 .65 tuned to 30hz
2002 Chevy Silverado -- 880prs, Seas CA18RNX, LPG 25nfa, Mach 5 IXL-12, JL 1000/1 & 450/4
i have a scoche 1000 microfarad cap in my truck, my system hits much harder now
-Cody
04 GMC
system in the works:
Pioneer DEH-940MP, RF T8002 on Peerless XLS 8" midbasses, RF T8004 on DLS Iridium 3" midrange and tweeter, RF T40001 on 2 Adire Brahma 12s, RF 360.2º processor
1000 microfarad
do they teach the metric system at scoshe?
ThankYou
Soldiers
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