yup but they are a pain and break easly so be cautious
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This is a discussion on removing rear speakers in a 93 K1500 within the Audio/Video Electronics forums, part of the General Discussion category; Looking to replace the rear speakers in a 93 reg cab. Do I need to tear off all the molding ...
Looking to replace the rear speakers in a 93 reg cab. Do I need to tear off all the molding aroung the door and rear window to remove the speaker?
I would assume that the rear molding needs to come off.
2005 Chevy Tahoe, All Wheel Drive, 4.10, 5.3L
1993 Chevy K1500 4x4, 175000 miles, 350
yup but they are a pain and break easly so be cautious
[Stole/FOUND 13/03/08 :O)
91GM 4x4 excb 5.7 @ 40 over, Westers,Eld 3704.Lunati Trickflow 195 @1.6 RR,Walpro 190/overbuilt 700r4 /TCS TC,4.10/tru trac,14 blt,Hooker LT,areofilter,Extreme TBI.MSD.AGR still adding
97/rclb/5.7/westers tune/stock..sold :O(
07/ 6.7 Cummins..truck included
70 fury
the speakers or the trim?
Whats everyons opinion on Sony speakers. I found some at walmart that were 4x6 with a independant tweeter, for about 30 dollars.
2005 Chevy Tahoe, All Wheel Drive, 4.10, 5.3L
1993 Chevy K1500 4x4, 175000 miles, 350
I would just get a 6 1/2's and have them mounted into the doors. You will get better sound from them and you wont risk breaking the plastic stuff in the back plus I know that getting that stuff back in can cause squeaks etc so it becomes a pain. I think the place in town quoted me 100 bucks to put speakers in the door and the speaker price depends on you!!
Get door speakers, once you crack or break that rear molding you will be pissed trust, i broke 2 on my old 94' before i said eff it and just cut the wire to the rears all together and went with a nice set of comp 6.5's up front.
You will be much happier and in a truck you really dont need rear fill anyway.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PRECISION-POWER-...d=p4999.c0.m14 These speakers are $135 shipped and are amazing, they will blow apline, or any of those other store bought speakers out of the water. They are actually A/D/S speakers rebranded..... They are up there with old german mbquart, Boston's and Diamond Audios.... the top of line big boys at am amazing price.... getting those with an amp will make you much happier then some $30 walmart speakrs, plus wont have to wrry about breaking the trim panel.... which BTW you will break 1 or 2 before you get it right.
1995 Silverado Ext. Cab O.B.S. Black, currently under destruction, I mean construction. PArts waiting for install, 88-93 Caddy Tails, sir micheals relocator kit, tons of billet.
R.I.P. 1994 Silverado Ext. Cab, caddy tails, shaved tail gate, 3/5 drop on 20 in. Boyd Smoothie 2's, WRECKED!!!
If you take that back apart, you are going to break tabs. Its basically a fact of life...lol.
-Cody
04 GMC
system in the works:
Pioneer DEH-940MP, RF T8002 on Peerless XLS 8" midbasses, RF T8004 on DLS Iridium 3" midrange and tweeter, RF T40001 on 2 Adire Brahma 12s, RF 360.2º processor
I think the sony speakers are alright. ive had them in my last two trucks and have been pleased with them especally for their price.
1996 Chevy K2500 6.5L Turbo Diesel
Homemade front redneck bumper
33x11x16 all terains
Lots of extra odds and ends
Freedom isnt free but its worth fighting for
All gave some some gave all
I too have the walmart sony's in my truck. They are fine for the price, but you can't expect much from 4x6's.
93 k1500
Short box reg cab, NV3500, 14 Bolt 3.73 G80.
Vortec 350, TBI Chips Tune, Shorties & 3" exhaust
4" suspension lift, 33x12.5x15 Duratracs
I put the speakers in the fronts I was really happy with them. Still debaiting on the rears. If I leave them in I am affraid they will start to crack. I really dont want to cut up the door panels. So Im kinda limited on what I put in. Why is removing trim so hard? I would think if any typw of body work is required the trim would need to be removed. IE floor pans, cab corners, rockers. Is there something I need to look for like hidden screws or issues you all have had?
2005 Chevy Tahoe, All Wheel Drive, 4.10, 5.3L
1993 Chevy K1500 4x4, 175000 miles, 350
It's not really hard to remove the trim, it's just that there's a lot of it and you need to be patient and very careful with it so you don't break any of the tabs. There are no hidden screws besides the coat hooks and seatbelts. It's all held on with clips and tabs. Your truck is 16 years old and plastic can get brittle. Just be careful with it if you do it.
save up and get a pair of components and mount them to the door. You'll be happy you did. I almost replaced my crappy 4*6s then found a pair of components on sale for $100 and used a $60 amp off ebay i had lying around and they are soooo much nicer. I can crank them up pretty high and they have a good amount of bass to them without static. I also have a 93 reg cab.
4x6s are junk.
Save up for the 6 1/2s and just disconnect all the factory 4x6s. Trust me on this
Last edited by TIGERZ; 10-05-2009 at 02:04 PM.
FOR SALE
1993 K1500 4x4 350 K&N, MSD, Super44, 6" RC Lift, 17" Motometal 957 on 33*12.5 Mickey T Baja Claws
I totally second this, I have had issues just doing the head unit on my 95' I broke half the clips off, and not intentionally I knew full well what I was getting into and they just where old and brittle.
On the back of my 94' I removed the trim, it all comes out in 1 whole piece, literally the clips can sometimes be tight and like Cody said you will break them period. Like I said with my dash I broke them and I took my time and babied it totally still broke them.
Also like Tigerz said and I will second along with alot more on the forum 6.5's and an amp will do you 100x better then an 4x6 you can get. Even if you get Walmart 6.5's and a cheapy E-bay amp or etc. You will be much more happy then if you go to replace the 4x6's.
1995 Silverado Ext. Cab O.B.S. Black, currently under destruction, I mean construction. PArts waiting for install, 88-93 Caddy Tails, sir micheals relocator kit, tons of billet.
R.I.P. 1994 Silverado Ext. Cab, caddy tails, shaved tail gate, 3/5 drop on 20 in. Boyd Smoothie 2's, WRECKED!!!
Just invest the money in a good pair of components for the fronts and fade all the way to the front and forget about those rear speakers. If you try to take it apart things will break.
I would disagree on fading all the way to the front. It would be better just to disconnet the speakers at the headunit.
Taking apart the back isn't bad, but the first time you need to be really careful on where you pull on the plastic because pieces will break if you go he man on it.
ya i was plannin on doing the same thing on my 97k1500 but ive decided to leave the rears alone and just replace the 6.5s up front and get a new head unit and call it a day.
Thanks Mike_2500 for the sig!
I really do not want to start hacking up my doors to put non Stock speakers in. I am hoping that I can get the trim off. If not I am out what ever it costs to repalce the trim. Its to bad no one makes a good pair of 4x6 speakers. I am not looking to put a killer system in, just a functional stereo. I already cant hear.
2005 Chevy Tahoe, All Wheel Drive, 4.10, 5.3L
1993 Chevy K1500 4x4, 175000 miles, 350
i wouldn't call it "hacking"
trust me the first cut was the hardest because i knew i couldn't go back once i started.
i'm very happy with mine
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FOR SALE
1993 K1500 4x4 350 K&N, MSD, Super44, 6" RC Lift, 17" Motometal 957 on 33*12.5 Mickey T Baja Claws
That looks good, did you have to cut the door frame behind the door card? Or is there already a hole?
93 k1500
Short box reg cab, NV3500, 14 Bolt 3.73 G80.
Vortec 350, TBI Chips Tune, Shorties & 3" exhaust
4" suspension lift, 33x12.5x15 Duratracs
you have to cut the door to.
1994 ECSB K1500 F44 Z71, 295/75/16 tires.
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