I would have been pissed.
This is a discussion on I knew there was a reason I do all my own work.. within the Audio/Video Electronics forums, part of the General Discussion category; So a few factors, primarily lack of time, led me to do something I've never done before... let someone else ...
So a few factors, primarily lack of time, led me to do something I've never done before... let someone else install equipment on my truck.
I figured.. what's the worst that could happen. $150, and they'll install 2 amps, my wiring kit, component speakers and 2 10" cheap (boss) subs in a box under the rear seat.
Fast forward 4 hours, I go to pick it up..
Looks decent enough inside but... they stuck screws through the back of my cab! What the.. They're just poking out between the cab and the truck box.. 8 of them. Looks stupid.
I ask the guy about water leaking.. "It shouldn't leak, but after some rust forms it will make a seal anyway." What the heck.. what kind of answer is that?
Anyway.. is this the 'norm' for installing amps in the cab of a truck? I'd cut the ends off to make them flush but you can't get anything between the cab and the bed of the truck. If this is 'normal' I guess I'll just deal with it.. despite it looking stupid.. but I'd like to know what others have done.
This is on a 1996 chevy c1500 extended cab.
Last edited by yoster; 04-07-2012 at 03:52 PM.
I would have been pissed.
I'd be pissed off man, thats a great spot for rust to form and eat through the cab over the years.
Well what should I do?? Taking it back isn't an option - I don't trust them to fix it, so I'll take it from here, just need some recommendations.
I think at the very least I should get some shorter (so they don't stick out 1/2") stainless screws, put some silicon on the threads and get them in there.
Ultimately I'd like to get nuts or something - I know people mount amps to the back of the cab all the time - what's the 'proper' way?
Only dumba$$ people do that. Here is what you do, pull those amps down, put some primer/touch up paint on those holes and then seal them with some silicone. Then cut out a board to mount the amps on out of mdf, plywood, etc. Either leave it natural or cover it with vinyl or whatever. You can use a few dabs of construction adhesive, usaully on one on each corner, and glue the board to the back wall and then mount the amps to that. If you dont want to use construction adhesive, you could use a strong two sided tape.
Ya I'd some good ol PL premium would have held just fine
I have a feeling he's going to find other issues when he digs into it. Good luck man.
Wheres the "hack" smiley when you need it?
06-2wd-4.8-5speed-LR4-Z85-40series-Baja 8s-TrueTrac-4.30gears-J&S Performance Tune
Please, please take it back and demand some sort of compensation. That is AWFUL. Rust will form, and will eat through after time. Also, that whole "rust will form and make a seal" is f***ing retarded. Yeah, sure, for a while. What about when it eats through the metal?
This sounds like a big box store install. Most individual, quality shops would do this better from my experience. Also, for mounting, I wouldn't use PL. Nothing wrong with it, I just wouldn't wanna chip paint or anything should you ever pry it off. Personal preference. Look for some 3M brand mounting tape. Their trim tape would work great. Mount board with that, mount amps to board with more tape/short screws/etc.
Good luck, man. I hate hack stereo installs hahahaha.
The shop was in a shady area of town, but it was clean enough. Was thinking I was getting a good deal.. until I saw that..
I've been thinking about it though and don't think it will be too bad now. The holes are small. I can back the screws out, fill them in with silicon or something (as recommended) and put the carpet back. At that point, it shouldn't be noticeable from the outside unless you're looking for it. Not ideal, not at all, but if I address it soon there honestly shouldn't be any long term damage or anything to worry about.
Just for the heck of it, I might take it to another shop to see what they think. There's one in town that's pretty expensive, but they get stellar reviews from everyone and has a waiting list. Perhaps they offer some service that could address the problem.
Man that sucks. I had a shop install an amp under my back seat in a Tahoe and they drilled thru the floor into my gas tank. They figured it best not to tell me and threw some silicone on top, which promptly fell off in the southtexas heat. They did pay for a new gas tank and installation.
Do as above with the board and mount amps to it. If you really wanted to you could take the bed off and cut or fill those holes/screws
Okay guys this might be a really stupid question so bare (bear?) with me...
Could he grind off the screws where they stick through and then bondo over it? Or can rust still form that way?
97 C1500 4.3l with Gibson headers and exhaust, Airaid intake, Belltech 3/4 drop, crappy paint and dings all over.
If you going to do that crap, you may as well do it right and weld up the holes, sand, primer, paint. I wouldnt do that, just prevent the rust by touch up primer/paint(the small brush on type will be fine) the holes and filling them with silicone will be the most cost effective and quickest way of solving this problem.
Last edited by Outlawz2004; 04-09-2012 at 02:06 PM.
Wow, that stinks. I've found that assuming anyone knows how to do ANYTHING is a mistake these days. Of course they can "do" it, but it may suck...big time in this case.
1993 K-Blazer Sport - Got it back!! Nice!
2005 Tahoe Z71 - For Sale
I would just get some bolts and bolt it through the cab using the existing holes. They are already there, and sealing them up with silicone will look like crap. Just get some stainless bolts, drill some holes, and use silicon to seal the bolts through the cab. I have done the board glued to the back wall before, but it makes it pretty easy for someone to steal your amps.
To mod, or not to mod, there really is no question!
I just had a car in an install shop for the same reason, to busy to do it myself. When I picked up the car there were massive GOUGES in the paint over both fenders and both quarter panels, and the power wire was run into the wheel well, right behind the tire, the tire actually rubbed the wire when turning! and the wire was just zip tied to the underside about every few feet and was hanging down, you could see the wire standing 20 or so feet from the car. I dont recall ever being that pissed before.
There are few and far between shops that I would trust to do an oil change on my truck, let alone allow them to install custom equipment. Sadly these days the correct way to do things is not time efficient and lack of "professionalism" and pride in workmanship has long gone to the wayside these days.
Even if you signed a waiver that dosen't neccessarily get them off the hook. I worked for Circuit City before their demise, and there was many times that the Roadshop had to replace very expensive car parts of very expensive cars... One that comes to mind was a brand new Audi having to get repainted due to nicks and scratches all over the car... and the owner was fanatical that just patching and buffing it out was not going to cut it... and he signed a waiver...
Another time was a shop I worked at that had a customer hand deleiver his Mercedes Wheels wanting new tires on them and there was small scuffs on the wheels from the balancer... one nick and he got 4 wheels and tires for free ($3000 later) just becuase he was persistant...
What if they was putting in a DVD roof unit in? WOrkmanship like that there would be screws out the top...
Threaten to take pictures of the install and post on the net with a pic of their shop.... then post it all over the web.... and hit up a local TV station or 3, they will be all over that if they have a consumer watch for the news.... and have them pay to have it fixed properly by someone other than them (like an mid to high end body shop... rust loves to eat older trucks, best to fight and have it done right.
And most of all report them to the BBB