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Reply With QuoteNo ground.
The ground for the fuel guage circuit is on the back of the engine block. Oh yeah, do the rest of your guages work?
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This is a discussion on fuel gauge pegged within the Classics forums, part of the General Discussion category; ok its late its driving me crazy and im tired of trying to figure out what it is...well i was ...
ok its late its driving me crazy and im tired of trying to figure out what it is...well i was swapping in my new cam tonight and went to fire the truck up and the fuel gauge pegged way past the full mark what causes this?
85 k10 single tank
No ground.
The ground for the fuel guage circuit is on the back of the engine block. Oh yeah, do the rest of your guages work?
Sig pic done by 454ss
99 GMC Yukon 350 4L60E NP 241 4x4 3.73 gears, Police Interceptor wheels on 265/70-17 Toyo a/t's
yea everyone of them. where about on the engine block?Originally Posted by noJeepshere
Which truck is it? It seems they are on different spots in every truck. On my 81 K5, the ground is on the passenger head at the back of the engine. On my 99 Yukon, it's near the same spot, but on the block.
Sig pic done by 454ss
99 GMC Yukon 350 4L60E NP 241 4x4 3.73 gears, Police Interceptor wheels on 265/70-17 Toyo a/t's
I had that happen on my 86 K10 Aux tank...it worked great after I swapped the new tank in, then all of a sudden about 200 miles later, I started it up and the aux tank gauge pegged, but when I click the toggle for the primary tank it works great....Im guessing it is just one of the wires coming from the sending unit that came unhooked.
on my 85 k10. i guess ill start looking for the engine ground
i've found quite a few at the frame rail right by the tank.
77 Chevy K20 - 80 GMC K2500 (in pieces)
90 Chevy K3500 - 93 Chevy C2500 (in pieces) - 94 Chevy K1500
yep. about 8 inches long from sending unit to where it attaches to the frame.
yea, i found the problem on mine, the wire from the frame to the sending unit came apart. I had spliced it with a connector, and I guess it bounced off. I haven't gotten a chance to fix it yet, but I touched the ends together it worked good. this time I am going to splice, then put one of those heat-shrink thingys on it.
That's about the best way to do it.
Pete
1987 V20 Silverado RCLB: 350/SM465/NP208/10-bolt/14-bolt SF
I know enough to know that I don't know enough.
also on the ends, use one of the washers that bite into the metal as they make for a better ground.
that wont help you if the metal is not free of rust and crud... it will just promote heat on each of the little tips that makes itermitant contact with the chassis ground. either way, prep the area well and you will be just fine.
clint
1987 5.3 4l60e Silverado - daily driver with A/C,P/W,P/L,TILT, HID projectors & C-5 Corvette Rear Disc Brakes w/parking Brake- also for sale @ $9,500
A poor man buy's it twice
it wasnt the connection at the frame. its the connection from the sender tot he wire that goes ti the frame it broke off. so looks like ill have to shell out some money for a new pickup/sender
couldn't you just solder it back?
try that, but you might need to go to like a harbortool or northern tool and pick up a 10 dollar butane pencil like torch. the solder will do the trick, but the tip (i'd imagine) wouldnt heat up the metal on the sender enough for it to bond. thus having the torch, that will heat the metal up just fine and then add some solder and wire and you should be golden! try that before shelling out 100 bucks...
clint
1987 5.3 4l60e Silverado - daily driver with A/C,P/W,P/L,TILT, HID projectors & C-5 Corvette Rear Disc Brakes w/parking Brake- also for sale @ $9,500
A poor man buy's it twice
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