The Ultimate Guide to Show Prep and Detailing!!

[MrSpiffy]

Please Note: This thread is meant to provide helpful hints, tips, and instructions for detailing your ride. If you have any questions, please post them here. This article is one of my references that I use to spark conversations and discussions. Enjoy!!



Part 1:

The Ultimate Guide to Show Prep and Detailing



What sets apart a mediocre show presence from a jaw-dropping display which wows all who see it? Lighting? Trophies? What makes a car really “pop”? It is true that it is all items working together, but the quality of the detailing is imperative. Having an impeccable car is a mod in and of itself. Prepare to embark on a journey which, upon completion, will leave you exhausted yet strangely content. Your car will beam in all aspects and heads will turn in marvel as you drive down the street. Welcome to the world of detailing.

**This altogether will take quite a long time, so be sure to set apart 1 ½- 2 days for the whole job**

Exterior:

Products:
Zaino Z1(or ZFX)
Zaino Z2/Z3
Zaino Z5
Zaino Z6
Meguiars #2 Fine-cut Cleaner
Meguiars #1 Medium-cut Cleaner
Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars Show Car Wax (liquid)
Meguiars Quick Detailer
Meguiars SoftBuff Pads (cutting, polishing, and finishing)
Claybar kit (Mothers, Meguiars,or Zaino)
Dawn Dishwashing Liquid [edit] Please see threads #1 and #2 to learn more about Dawn before proceeding. [edit]
California Water Blade
The Absorber
Porter Cable 7424 buffer

Step 1:

It is important to begin with a clean slate when beginning a major paint overhaul. Begin by washing the car with Dawn dishwashing soap. I know this sounds like a detailing sin, but Dawn is perfect for stripping old buildup and leaving the paint clean and ready for the rest of the process. DO NOT make a habit of washing the car with Dawn, however. After washing the car, dry thoroughly with the California Water Blade and Absorber. Be careful to keep the blade clean as any particles can scratch the paint.


Step 2:

Now that the surface is fairly clean, it is time to further remove shine-blocking surface contaminants. A claybar is the best way to further remove harmful particles that inhibit shine and damage paint. It isn’t necessary or advised that you use one every time you clean your car, however I recommend use every 3-4 months depending on your location and the environments car is usually in. However, for show prep. purposes, a claybar is an excellent way to acquire an extra-deep shine. Set aside approximately 1 ½ hours for this step. It is a good idea to wear a pair of surgical gloves while using the claybar. They are helpful in keeping a good grip on it and blocking oils and other impurities from your hands. Fingerprints add oils to the clay and any small particles from dirty hands may cause scratches to the paint. Claybar kits usually come with a bottle of Quick Detailer, or a generic version of it, to use as lube. You can also use a mixture of car wash concentrate (Meguiars Gold Class or Zaino Z7) and water. Be sure to keep the surface wet with this while using the claybar. Spray a small area ( 1-2 sq. ft) and rub clay over paint until it feels smoother and there is less friction. You will be able to tell by touch. When the bottom of the clay begins to turn black, knead it into a ball and re-flatten. Continue like this with the rest of the car.

Step 3:

It is now time to re-wash the car. This time you will use a car wash concentrate. Re-washing will yet further remove contaminants loosened by the claybar and give a final squeaky-clean surface on which you will begin to repair the paint.

Step 4:

It’s time to begin buffing. First off is buffer choice. There are many options out there, from cheap Waxmaster units available at Wal Mart to professional rotary buffers. Unless you are a professional, DO NOT buy a rotary buffer. Instead, use a random orbital unit, or a “civilian” buffer. I do not advise buying a cheap unit, they will not last and do not provide the same results. They are also more likely to CAUSE additional damage. Instead, it is better to invest in a quality unit. The best I have found is the Porter Cable 7424. Doubling as a grinder/sander, this buffer is virtually “idiot-proof” and will give results unattainable by hand. It also has variable speeds, a useful feature in a buffer. With this unit, I recommend Meguiars Soft-Buff foam pads. The designated pad will be mentioned for each step.

When removing scratches, you will always start with the lowest intensity products first and work your way up. In this case, you are going to begin with Meguiars #2 Fine-cut Cleaner (first with a normal polishing pad, then with a foam cutting pad) and, only if needed, #1 Medium-cut Cleaner (polishing pad, then foam cutting pad). Your buffer will also be set to 5000-5200 rpm during this step. Before you begin, take a look at the paint in direct sunlight. Sunlight is the best way to evaluate the extent of your paint damage. Just by knowing what you are dealing with may allow you to predetermine your pad choice. As a rule of thumb, sunlight shows big swirls and scratches, and fluorescent light shows smaller ones. Thus, it is a good idea to back the car in and out of the garage periodically to check your progress. To begin, you are going to spatter a SMALL amount of the cleaner onto a reasonable fraction of the car (i.e. the hood, then door panels, then rear section, etc.). You will continue to work it into the paint until you can no longer see it. To achieve optimum results, work from front to back on flat surfaces, and vertically on side panels. This will enhance the optical quality of your paint and make all angles more vibrant when you are finished. Continue like this until you have covered the whole car. Then mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer. This will remove any dust that has collected and help enhance the shine. I recommend that you use quality, 100% cotton diaper rags to wipe the car. This step may require anywhere from one to four applications fo remove all the scratches.

Step 4:

Zaino vs. Meguiars

From here you can take one of two different paths, Zaino or Meguiars. Both are excellent products and will yield amazing results, but I have found that Zaino polishes are optically superior to Meguiars. The major difference is longevity. The Zaino finish lasts longer than Meguiars, is easier to maintain, and isn’t greasy. The benefit of Meguiars, though, is price. Zaino polishes cost $12.99-$16.99 per 8oz. bottle while Meguiars #7 polish is $8.99 per 16oz. bottle. So you can obviously see the added expense. But, if you are after optimum results and price isn’t as much of an object, Zaino is the way to go. I will still, however, include Meguiars application instructions immediately under the Zaino instructions.

Zaino:

Zaino products work and are applied differently than Meguiars. The main difference is the longer curing time. Each coat of Zaino must cure for 12-24 hours. Thankfully, the makers of Zaino have developed a compound which drastically decreases curing time. ZFX, the compound in question, is mixed with either Z2, Z3, or Z5 and allows multiple coats to be applied in a day. Please note that use of ZFX compound takes away the need for Z1 Polish Lok.

You will begin by applying Z5, a scratch-masking polish. If you plan on using a ZFX enhanced version of this polish, you will add 4-5 drops of ZFX to an ounce of polish. Apply this by hand with a Zaino polish applicator once again following the front to back and vertical technique mentioned earlier. Let this dry for 30 minutes. During this time you can work on detailing another aspect of the car. After Z5 has dried, you will remove it with a large, white, 100% cotton towel. Be sure not to skip little noticed, but still necessary areas such as door sills, trunk and hood lines, and the fuel door. After all, this is detailing. Don’t skip details! After completely removing the polish, mist and wipe the car with Z6 Gloss Enhancer. Although seemingly unnecessary, it really does help to deepen the overall shine. Depending on how many small scratches are left, you may want to repeat this process a few more times. With each application you will notice the scratches and swirls beginning to lessen, however there shouldn’t be many left after use of the paint cleaner.

Now that your paint is close to perfect it is time to develop the shine. At this time your paint is looking pretty good and you may be tempted to stop, however your shine has only begun to show itself. It is time to begin with Z2 or Z3. If your paint is clear coated, you will continue with Z2, if not you will use Z3. Once again, if you are using ZFX enhanced versions of these products you will add 4-5 drops per ounce of polish. This polish will be applied exactly like Z5, following the front to back and vertical pattern. Let this too dry for 30 minutes before removing. Remove this too with a large, soft, 100% cotton towel. Also mist and wipe the car with Z6 Gloss Enhancer between coats. With each additional coat you will notice the shine becoming deeper and clearer. If you have a rich, darker color (like black or red) this step is a must and you may want to apply as many as four coats. Lighter colors (like white or silver) can usually get away with one to two coats. Z2 has a high quality sealer and needs not be topped with anything else.

**Note: You can switch off between coats of Z2/Z3 and Z5, however you should always have Z2/Z3 as a final quote as they have higher optical quality.**

Meguiars:

If you decide to go the Meguiars route you will continue now with Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze. This product isn’t actually a glaze, but rather a pure polish. Polishes have been known to be the real “character-builders” in the paint preparation process. Polishes bring out the deep, clear shine in your paint by feeding it with the oils it so desperately needs. Please note that you CAN use pure polish on new paint. It is non-abrasive and 100% safe. When using #7, take care not to apply too much at a time. When it comes to polish, less is always more. It is far better to apply several thin coats than gobbing on one thick coat. If you notice little specks starting to develop, don’t worry. You need only to keep working them out with your buffer. To begin application, you will spatter a few small dots of polish onto a fraction of the car as you did with the paint cleaner. With your buffer set to 5000-5200 rpm and using a polishing pad, work the polish into the paint until you can no longer see it. Then wipe down the excess with a clean, 100% cotton diaper rag. You will then mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer. You will continue in this manner for a total of 2-3 coats. You will notice the shine becoming deeper and clearer with each application.

**Note: Due to the greasy nature of the Meguiars products, you may wish to let the polish cure for an hour or more before continuing. If you are short on time, it is okay to continue immediately**

Now that your paint is blemish-free (or pretty close), it is time to seal in all the oils you have just fed your paint. Wax is the sealer. Although there are many supporters of carnuba waxes, I prefer Meguiars Gold Class liquid wax. It is easier to apply and is more reflective. This is applied in the same manner as the paint cleaner and polish were, following the front to back and vertical pattern. With your buffer set to 5000-5200 rpm, you will use a polishing pad for this step. As before, work wax into paint until almost unnoticeable. Then, remove with a clean, 100% cotton diaper rag. Be sure to mist and wipe the car with Quick Detailer in between coats. I do not condone multiple coats of wax in rapid succession. This will actually KILL a little of your difficultly-earned shine. Instead, allow each coat of wax to cure for a few hours before apply additional coats.

You will now go over the car with the finishing pad. This pad is good for removing any remaining wax residue and developing that little extra shine. Simply work your way around the car quickly with your buffer set to around 5800rpm.



Congratulations! You have now finished bringing your paint up to “Spiffy” specifications. But don’t start resting yet. There is still the interior and other detailing necessities left to be done.

[MrSpiffy]

Part 2:


Interior:

Products:

Meguiars #39 Heavy-Duty Vinyl Cleaner
Meguiars #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner
Meguiars Heavy Duty Carpet Cleaner
Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner/ Armorall Leather Care
Rain X Anti-Fog Wipes
Can Vacuum w/ hose and 2 attachments



Many people overlook the interior of their vehicle. After all, no one else see the inside. Why bother? You should bother because YOU spend your time inside the vehicle. The interior is your connection to the car and thus to the world you drive in. It is also a determining factor in the show arena, especially if interior mods are part of your presentation. This being said, let’s begin.



Step 1:

You should always start by “dejunking” the car. By this I mean removing everything that isn’t part of the car. It is far easier to detail the interior when there are no McDonald’s cups or Taco Bell wrappers in the way.


Step 2:

You now need to vacuum the interior thoroughly. I recommend a small, but powerful vacuum with a flexible hose and a slash-cut wand and a fuzzy attachment. While vacuuming, be sure to pay attention to details. Don’t overlook areas such as: under the seats, door handles, door pockets, glove boxes, cupholders, crevices in seats, and the trunk. It is the little things like this that set a detailed car apart.

Step 3:

As it is always advised to do your dirty work before your beautifying, it is now time to remove any stains that may be present in your carpets. Up until now I have attained good results using a Bissel Little Green, however, due to constant problems with the quality of Bissel’s machines I am currently looking for a new brand of machine.
Stain removal is fairly straightforward. When using a deep cleaning machine, you will follow the same instructions as you would use in home. Pre-soak the surface with the cleaning solution and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Now that the stain has had time to be released from the surface, you will now vacuum it out using your deep cleaning machine. It may be necessary to repeat this process with stubborn stains.
In addition to the use of machinery, there are also several hand-applied stain removers designed especially for automotive use. Meguiars Heavy Duty Carpet & Interior Cleaner is a good product. I would recommend trying this before buying a deep cleaning machine. Also, a quick misting of Febreze can also help to remove any trapped smells.

Step 4:

**Note: This step is only necessary if you have stains or discoloration on your interior plastics.**


To remove grime and thoroughly clean interior plastics, I recommend Meguiars #39 Heavy-duty Vinyl Cleaner. It will remove tough stains in plastics. Simply spray surface and wipe/scrub lightly with a double-sided sponge. Then dry as you go with a clean cloth or towel. Follow this with Meguiars #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner applying as before. Be sure not to skip ash trays, cupholders, storage bins, or any little nook that your car may have. There is no excuse not to pay attention to detail!

Step 5:

You can’t forget the windows. The reason you are doing these next is that any of the products before would have messed them up, and cleaning the windows may mess up the following steps if they came first. For interior glass, I actually recommend Rain X Anti-Fog wipes. They are ammonia-free, and thus safe on interior tinting. They also do help prevent fogging. One wipe is good for all interior glass on an average car. You will first wipe down the glass thoroughly, being careful to get in deep cracks. Also, don’t forget to get the top portion of the window which often gets overlooked when the window is completely closed. Details! Next, buff out window with a clean, 100% cotton cloth or towel until glass is perfectly clear and the haze is gone.


Step 6:

. Now that all the ““ugly”” work is done, it is time to start beautifying your now sterile interior. Another common myth about car cleaning is that Armorall is a miracle liquid. It is actually one of the worst products to use on your interior, especially the dashboard. I recommend that you use Armorall only on wheel well plastics and on plastics in the engine bay. This being said, I would suggest that instead you would use a leather conditioner. Leather conditioners are also good for use on vinyl. The two products that I prefer and recommend most are Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner and Armorall Leather Care. They both result in similar suppleness, with the exception that the Armorall product provides a slightly shinier appearance, which is why some prefer to use it on dark-colored leather. The Meguiars conditioner, however, provides slightly better moisturization. Choose a product based upon the criteria of your needs. Apply either of these products with a soft cloth, a little at a time, and rub into the surface until fully absorbed.

Step 7:
Now that all steps have been completed, do a look-through of the car, taking notice of anything you might have missed. Then, re-vacuum the carpet to remove any particles of cloth that might have come off during the leather conditioning process.


Engine Bay:

Products:
Simple Green/Meguiars Extra All-purpose Cleaner/Degreaser
Several plastic bags
Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl/Rubber Protectant /Armorall
A medium-sized paint brush
2-3 toothbrushes


One of the most often forgotten and ignored aspects of detailing is the engine bay. It is, for most people, the least seen and of last importance. However, being key in the show arena, having a clean engine bay is essential.

**Note: If your engine is exceptionably dirty, it may be necessary to take it to have it professionally steam cleaned to remove caked and burnt-on grime.**

Step 1:

Before any true detailing can be done, the metals of your engine may need to be degreased. For this, I recommend either Meguiars Extra All-purpose Cleaner or a high concentration of Simple Green. Both products do a great job of cutting grease. First, cover the alternator, ecu, battery, and ignition with plastic bags. Then, with a warm engine (not hot) spray on the degreaser and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. Scrub, if necessary, with a medium-sized paint brush or toothbrushes. Then, rinse with a slow stream of water. You may need to repeat this step. A paintbrush can actually be a helpful tool in cleaning the engine. Dry the engine bay with a few old rags.

Step 2:

It is now time to begin detailing the engine. Believe it or not, glass cleaner works well for shining up engine metals. If you have polished engine parts, Meguiars Gold Class All Metal Restorer is a good product. If you have chrome parts, you will want to clean them with Mothers Chrome Polish. Painted parts need only be misted and wiped with Quick Detailer. As for plastics and rubber hoses, either Armorall or Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl/ Rubber Protectant (Meguiars obviously being the superior product, but Armorall still get’s the job done).

When working in the engine bay, be sure not to overlook details such as hoses, wiring, and turbo piping or intercoolers (if applicable). Also, look up. The underside of the hood is another commonly forgotten thing. Clean the lip of the hood with Quick Detailer, being careful to clean inside the hood latch and hinges. Once again, details!

[MrSpiffy]

Part 3:



Wheels, Tires, and Other Details:

Products:

Meguiars #36 Professional Wheel Cleaner
Meguiars Gold Class All Metal Restorer
Meguiars Endurance High Gloss Tire Gel
Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl/Rubber Protectant /Armorall
Meguiars PlastX
Meguiars Clear Plastic Detailer
Mothers Chrome Polish
Rain X Windshield Treatment
Windex




Wheels:

Wheels are fairly easy to care for once you know a little more about them. Before beginning, try to learn whether or not your wheels are clear coated, polished, chrome, painted, etc. Knowing this will help in product selection. You will begin by spraying them with Meguiars #36 Professional Wheel Cleaner. It is a non-acidic product which quickly loosens road grime and brake dust. Be sure to get the brake rotors and calipers while you’re at it. After letting it sit for about 2 minutes, you will rinse the rim surface with a steady stream of water. A second application may be necessary. Now, if your wheels are polished or chrome you will polish them with Meguiars Gold Class All Metal Restorer or Mothers Chrome Polish respectively. For either product, apply with a soft, 100% cotton cloth or towel and allow to dry to a haze. Then, with a clean cloth or towel, wipe away residue to discover a highly reflective shine. If your wheels are clear coated or painted, you need only to dry them after use of #36.


Tires:

Provided that tires have already been washed (done while initially washing the car), you need only to dress them. I highly recommend Meguiars Endurance High Gloss. It is virtually waterproof, lasts longer than any other product I have used, and looks great. Simply apply a small dab to a sponge and wipe on.


Misc:

Wheel Wells:

Wheel wells are entirely important. They are usually a way to tell if the person who cleaned the car cared about what he was doing. To clean them, first spray inside the wheel well liberally with Meguiars Extra or the aforementioned mixture of Simple Green. Allow to penetrate for a few minutes and rinse with a stream of water. Then dress with either Armorall or Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl/Rubber Protectant. This will leave the inside of the wheel well looking clean and dark black.


Exterior Glass:

Exterior glass is another easy, but still essential part of detailing. Begin by misting with Windex. Then buff away the haze with a clean cloth or towel. If you like, you can treat your windshield with Rain X. Doing this will cause water to bead up and keep your windshild looking good longer. Simply apply with a cloth or towel and allow to haze. When white, buff out with a new, clean cloth or towel.

Headlight/ Taillight Lenses:

It may also be a necessary to polish the lenses of the headlights and taillights. For this, I recommend Meguiars PlastX. It cleans and polishes clear plastic and acrylic surfaces and removes oxidation and road grime. To use, wipe lens with a clean cloth or towel and a small dab of product. Wipe for 30 seconds and leave to haze. Then, wipe clear with another part of the cloth. Follow this with Meguiars Clear Plastic Deailer. Apply this similarly, letting dry to a haze and buffing out with a clean cloth. This process will make your lenses shine resiliently.


Mufflers/Intercoolers/Turbo Piping/Exhaust Tips:

Mufflers, intercoolers, turbo piping, and exhaust tips are all fairly easy and similar to clean. The only exception being that turbo piping and intercoolers are harder to reach. Cleaning them is only a matter of applying Meguiars Gold Class All Metal Restorer and allowing to dry to a haze. Then remove with a clean cloth or towel to achieve a highly-reflective shine.




Thus ends our detailing journey. By now, you have probably discovered that there is a lot more work involved in detailing than you may have originally thought. Personal detailing is also quite an investment. Some of you may not be ready, willing, or just don’t have the time to take up such a time-intensive endeavor. For you, finding a detailer may a more logical choice. Fortunately for you, you now have to tools to interview and decide on a detailer. Always talk to him/her first. Get to know their methods and techniques. Become familiar with their products. In doing so, you have a better idea of how your vehicle, one of your major investments in life, is being cared for.

So, I hope you are now equipped to take the show scene by storm and look good doing it. And if not, you will at least look good. Congratulations, you are now “Spiffy”!




By,
Jeron Kerridge, Owner/ Detailer Spiffy Detailing
www.spiffydetailing.bravepages.com
spiffydetailing@yahoo.com
(858)449-1013



Enjoy,
~Jeron

[Whifflebat]

I'll have to do that before I go back to school.

[cDUBZon40s]

A good description on how to dealtail for FSC members! I've been detailing both aircraft and vehicles for 5 years now and I can tell you the most imortant part of detailing IS attention to detail.

[camnut]

So whats the trick to buffing a black vehicle, how do u avoid the swirl marks?

[cDUBZon40s]

through buffing, you can eliminate all swirl marks (if you do it right)

[camnut]

That is the answer i am seeking.......how??

[MrSpiffy]

Part 1, step #4.


The various paint cleaners work wonders when it comes to removing swirl marks and scratches. I recommend that you start with Meguiars #2 cleaner and work up to #1 then finish with another 1-2 times over with the #2 fine-cut cleaner again. As long as you polish afterwards, you will remove or mask all/almost all of your paint defects. Trust me, I have a black Lexus GS400 that gets this treatment every 1 1/2 months. Black is a pain in the neck, but looks so awesome when it's clean.


~Jeron

[HENRY]

Thanks for the write up, very informative.

The only problem i have is ive never used or know how to use a buffer, and so that keeps me from being able to do things right.

I need a video :)

[camnut]

That is my problem....how do u use the buffer on black or (dark) paint? I have seen some buffing jobs done by "professional detail shops" on black paint and i still see what i would call swirl marks left from the buffer. Not sure how to explain myself in words but i hope u understand what i am saying....

[SportyShorty]

Do you think that the Porter Cable 7336 Buffer would also be ok for buffing my truck. I found one on Ebay today for a good price and thought about getting it. It pretty much looks the same as the one you talk about except this one comes with a hook and loop sanding pad. Let me know. I have a black Silverado that needs to be buffed. I figured that if I get this I could try it myself.

[DemoN]

It's been my experience that Buffers are the devil. I have yet to have good luck with using a buffer. How do you keep from swirl marking the paint?

[SportyShorty]

I think your best bet is to get a Random Orbit buffer. The pad spins in random patterns rather than in a prefect circle. It acts much like a random orbit sander for wood. They spin but do not leave scratches in the grain much like swirl marks in your paint. I'm pretty sure, but dont quote me on this.

[mrflames]

damm nice write up the only thiong i would add is to use a small ele. dremal woth a small polish pad on the end to clean the rims with but like i said damm good job on the write up

[OKLAGMCRUISER]

Can someone make this a sticky? Very nice work...thanks for all the information.

Pat

[LowHoe]

YEAH sticky this

nice write up MrSpiffy:

my black tahoe is a bish to get completely swirl free.

[Stroker 1500]

where can i get the porter buffer?? and what are some other decent buffers that are in the range of 40 bux?? also i ended up buying Meguiars (hope im not disapointed) but all i have ever used before this is just plain old turtle wax and nothing else. Also has anyone ever tried autoglym, the reason i ask is because i have a freind that works for a detailing place and thats what they use

[Stroker 1500]

well i got the porter cable (had to pull 100 and somethin out of my butt).. i have a few questions. i couldn't find any of the foam buffing pads so i bought the terry cloth ones. i wanted to know if the foam pads made that much of a difference or not..also on the #2 polish it says to use the traditonal kind of buffer only..can an orbital be used anyways? and when im polishing its practically impossible to get the polish to go away with the buffer...is there normal and if anyon has any tips its appreciated

thanks

p.s im a noob to detailing

[BC Rod and Custom]

Basically you have 2 different kinds of pads. Wool and Foam.

There are 3 kinds of Wool Pads
Red for Serious CUtting duty
White for Most cutting duty
Yellow for polish/cutting

There are many varieties of foam pads taht I have seen. I use a 3m White Foam Compounding Pad sometimes on black cars to remove the really fine swirls that you can only see in teh sunlight. I have managed to get a black car completly swirl free using only cutting compounds and no polish whatsoever. That takes some masterful skill work with the buffer that takes months of practice to master fully. Also there is a black foam glazing pad for applying swirl removers but in my opinion these basically do nothing and are completely worthless.

Here's how the pads work, The wool pads are used for cutting out scratches from sanding, w/e. Use the White Pad with a Heavy compound ( I use Meguiars Mirror Glaze Diamond Cut) and plenty of pressure to remove the initial sand scratch. Then step up to the Yellow Pad with a medium duty compound ( Meguairs Mirror GLaze Dual ACtion Cleaner/ Polish) to remove the swirls left behind by the heavy compound. Then you can step up to the white foam pad and some light duty compound. I like to use 3m Finesse-IT. Finish off with a good coat of your favorite wax ( mine is Zaino) and you should have a swirl free finish that shines deep and rich.