What is the difference in a leveling kit and a 4'' lift?

[TexasCrew]

I have a 2009 silverado.
Ok so I understand that a leveling kit is 1.5'' to 2.25'' in the front. and the 4'' readylift is 4'' in the front and 3'' replacement block in the back. I understand the numerical difference. But BOTH allow 33'' tires. sorry this is a stupid question, but I dont get it.

[2COR517]

Well, a nine inch kit would allow 33" tires. And most guys stuff 33s/285s in without any kit, just crank the T-bars a bit.

I think most "leveling kits" do not move the front differential, as opposed to a lift kit that would drop the front diff.

[TexasCrew]

ok thanks, Just dont get how a 2.25 level kit can fit same tires as a 4'' lift. doesnt sound right. yea, the 4'' has a differential drop, 2'' top coil spacer, and a 2'' bottom one. so it does have change. But on another thread i've been involved with, we are still waiting to see pics of angles from another guy to see how steep they really are. http://www.fullsizechevy.com/showthr...0-4x4-Crew-Cab
I've been told the 4'' is just a "fancy" leveling kit, with a bigger block in the back..and it's 3 times more expencive. (Without cost of tires)

[WildChevys]

Well, a nine inch kit would allow 33" tires. And most guys stuff 33s/285s in without any kit, just crank the T-bars a bit.

I think most "leveling kits" do not move the front differential, as opposed to a lift kit that would drop the front diff.

how is he going to crank the torsion bars on his truck being that HIS TRUCK DOESN"T HAVE TORSION BARS. for the 15 millionth time GMT900 - NNBS 1/2 tons trucks DON"T HAVE TORSION BARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[WildChevys]

a leveling kit ( on nnbs 1/2 tons) uses spacers either on top of or under the strut to attain lift from the front of the truck. a lift kit uses blocks and or leafs in the back, and front and rear front cross members, knuckles, and a diff drop to attain lift from the front, HOWEVER that readylift IS NOT a true lift kit, it is a glorified leveling kit and is a piece of crap. all it does if level the front of the truck and gives you a diff drop so that your cv angles won't be terrible, it does not however do anything to compensate for the fact the bj and tre angles will be terrible. fitting tires is relative and depends on several variables such as, tire width, wheel width, wheel backspace, and how much trimming you do or do not want to do. some people might feel comfortable running 33's with just 2" of leveling, some people might like 33's with 4" of lift, some people might even like 33's with 8" of lift. PLEASE for the sake of your truck don't spend your money on that readylift crap.

[TexasCrew]

a leveling kit ( on nnbs 1/2 tons) uses spacers either on top of or under the strut to attain lift from the front of the truck. a lift kit uses blocks and or leafs in the back, and front and rear front cross members, knuckles, and a diff drop to attain lift from the front, HOWEVER that readylift IS NOT a true lift kit, it is a glorified leveling kit and is a piece of crap. all it does if level the front of the truck and gives you a diff drop so that your cv angles won't be terrible, it does not however do anything to compensate for the fact the bj and tre angles will be terrible. fitting tires is relative and depends on several variables such as, tire width, wheel width, wheel backspace, and how much trimming you do or do not want to do. some people might feel comfortable running 33's with just 2" of leveling, some people might like 33's with 4" of lift, some people might even like 33's with 8" of lift. PLEASE for the sake of your truck don't spend your money on that readylift crap.

thanks for your say. So if I do a leveling kit of 2.25'' and run 305/55/20 zeon cooper ltz A/T on stock rims will they rub? without and trimming? I want some height, but nothing over 4''. I have a roll bar and rack lights on it, and I took it off because it looks silly with rake/stock height of the truck. and my truck is only 2wd. so maybe with the tires/leveling kit it will look ok? maybe throw in the 3'' rear block as well? although thats pretty much giving me 1.25'' rake if I did that right and it will be taller. please give opinion and how you would do it if you were in my shoes? :)
I just want to get this **** done so my truck will look great.

[TexasCrew]

Just to throw in there, I just watched a video with a guy who did the 2.25'' leveling kit and 3'' rear block replacement. he put nitto dune graps 275/60/20 on factory rims. no rub or trimming required. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=az7A3...ext=1&index=17

[gearhead998]

I hate to state the obvious here, but if your truck is 2wd, you don't need to worry about CV angles, get the leveling kit.

[rebelbowtie]

I hate to break to you but CV angles don't matter that much. You're likely going to break a TRE or ball joint long before a CV. I'd look at those angles which is the same 2wd or 4wd

[WildChevys]

I hate to state the obvious here, but if your truck is 2wd, you don't need to worry about CV angles, get the leveling kit.

what about the ball joint and tie rod end angles? those dont matter if they fail is what your saying?

[WildChevys]

thanks for your say. So if I do a leveling kit of 2.25'' and run 305/55/20 zeon cooper ltz A/T on stock rims will they rub? without and trimming? I want some height, but nothing over 4''. I have a roll bar and rack lights on it, and I took it off because it looks silly with rake/stock height of the truck. and my truck is only 2wd. so maybe with the tires/leveling kit it will look ok? maybe throw in the 3'' rear block as well? although thats pretty much giving me 1.25'' rake if I did that right and it will be taller. please give opinion and how you would do it if you were in my shoes? :)
I just want to get this **** done so my truck will look great.

if it was my truck i would get a 2.5" leveling kit and run those 305's (which SHOULD fit w/o trimming on stock wheels) and be done with it. i would not switch the blocks out because i think rake looks HORRIBLE!

[TexasCrew]

ok thanks a lot, well from what i've read and understood, the seals and all result in failure from rips and punctured area, can look at this thread http://www.fullsizechevy.com/showthr...Crew-Cab/page2

[RichLockyer]

I hate to break to you but CV angles don't matter that much. You're likely going to break a TRE or ball joint long before a CV. I'd look at those angles which is the same 2wd or 4wd

How many 2wd FSCs have torsion rods/keys?
All that I've seen have been coil. Not 100% on Classic, but that certainly applies to OBS/NBS.

[rebelbowtie]

How many 2wd FSCs have torsion rods/keys?
All that I've seen have been coil. Not 100% on Classic, but that certainly applies to OBS/NBS.

NBS 1500HD, 2500LD and HD, 3500, VHO, some suburbans, SS trucks... Im sure they're more.

[rydemx28]

why dont you go with cst 4" it looks good and your truck wont look stock with a leveling kit.

Heres a website with some cool done up trucks.
www.socalsupertrucks.com click on gallery.

[WildChevys]

the 4" BDS kit is another good 4" kit. the only problems with the 4" kits are that the cost around the same as a 6" kit and 99.99% of the time within a few short weeks the guys that went with the 4" kit are suddenly all saying how bad they wished they went with a 6" kit.

[RAYJR]

I have a 2010 crew cab 4x4 with the readylift 2.25" in the front and 3" block in the back. NO it's not a true lift, but if your just looking for the little extra height for curb hoping or light off road it's worked great for me so far. 14,000 miles and no problems. The 4" kit for the front is a bit more involved on a 4x4 since the transfer case has to be lowered, but 2wd obviously don't have a transfer case so it would be pretty simple to do, but you'd need the wheel spacer to run wide tires on the Stock rims. One thing you may consider is the rear blocks. first, the rear 3" blocks in the 4" sst kit are no different than the ones you can order separate. Second, check to see if you have a factory blocks in the rear. My 2002 did not. I'm not sure about the NBS, but if there is no factory blocks to remove and you put that 3" block in there your gona get 3 inches, not 1.75" like the
4x4's do. Here's a pic of mine. NOTE: I'm having a tire and wheel issue, Tires look a bit dinky

[RAYJR]

Hummmmm, OK guess I don't know how to post a picture in a reply. umm any idea how???

[RichLockyer]

Hummmmm, OK guess I don't know how to post a picture in a reply. umm any idea how???

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[TexasCrew]

I have a 2010 crew cab 4x4 with the readylift 2.25" in the front and 3" block in the back. NO it's not a true lift, but if your just looking for the little extra height for curb hoping or light off road it's worked great for me so far. 14,000 miles and no problems. The 4" kit for the front is a bit more involved on a 4x4 since the transfer case has to be lowered, but 2wd obviously don't have a transfer case so it would be pretty simple to do, but you'd need the wheel spacer to run wide tires on the Stock rims. One thing you may consider is the rear blocks. first, the rear 3" blocks in the 4" sst kit are no different than the ones you can order separate. Second, check to see if you have a factory blocks in the rear. My 2002 did not. I'm not sure about the NBS, but if there is no factory blocks to remove and you put that 3" block in there your gona get 3 inches, not 1.75" like the
4x4's do. Here's a pic of mine. NOTE: I'm having a tire and wheel issue, Tires look a bit dinky

yes, the 2008 and the 2009 both have the blocks. ( I have both years) and my new job requires quite a bit of towing, 20ft trailer full of farm equiptment and feed etc... some light, and some heavy pulls. Some of these ranches I have to go out to can be rough. So should I put the 3'' block in back for towing?
++ I decided to run 275/60/20 instead on my stockers. Look pretty good. I'll post this and go find that pic I have.