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looking for SEAT lift kit for Silverado?

This is a discussion on looking for SEAT lift kit for Silverado? within the Interior Tech forums, part of the General Discussion category; I need a seat lift kit for my 98 Silverado, so I can fit bigger subs under the rear seat. ...

  1. #1
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    looking for SEAT lift kit for Silverado?


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    I need a seat lift kit for my 98 Silverado, so I can fit bigger subs under the rear seat.

    I have seen them for Ford but not Chevy.

    Please help I have been looking everywhere.

  2. #2
    i still lurk Luke2kZ71's Avatar
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    use wood and wrap it in carpet
    6.0 Swap, Powerdyne supercharger, SFA, 44" boggers, some other stuff

  3. #3
    Registered User ag4gt's Avatar
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    I have modified or replaced seats on almost every vehicle I have ever owned. I like them to sit up a little taller then the stock. More like you are sitting in a chair, instead of having your legs stretched out in front of you. I have used all sorts of things to mount the new seats. Wood blocks, 2x4’s, Dexion, square steel tubing whatever it takes. You can make it look pretty good with a little paint if you want also. One of the main things I have found useful is All-Thread (threaded rod). You can custom make anchors of any length you need and they can be bent to fit most any configuration.

    You may wonder about your modified anchors if you are in a wreck. Well I had a van that I had raised the captain’s chairs up about 3 inches that was in a wreck. The factory anchors collapsed but my modification didn’t give at all.
    Steven
    ag4gt@hotmail.com
    '01 3/4 Ton Duramax/Allison Silverado &
    '84 6.2L 1/2 Ton Silverado
    I have done so much with so little for so long, I am now qualified to do everything with nothing.

  4. #4
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    Originally posted by ag4gt
    I have modified or replaced seats on almost every vehicle I have ever owned. I like them to sit up a little taller then the stock. More like you are sitting in a chair, instead of having your legs stretched out in front of you. I have used all sorts of things to mount the new seats. Wood blocks, 2x4’s, Dexion, square steel tubing whatever it takes. You can make it look pretty good with a little paint if you want also. One of the main things I have found useful is All-Thread (threaded rod). You can custom make anchors of any length you need and they can be bent to fit most any configuration.

    You may wonder about your modified anchors if you are in a wreck. Well I had a van that I had raised the captain’s chairs up about 3 inches that was in a wreck. The factory anchors collapsed but my modification didn’t give at all.
    My only comment is why in the heck would you want to sit so high?!? My head would hit the roof if I lifted my seat that high, and I have my power bucket seat adjusted as LOW as it will go, and I'm not even very tall (6'1")...

    To me, one of the best FEATURES of the Chevy is that it sits PROPERLY in a comfortable car-like position.

    In other words, a Chevy seat is more comfortable because it sits more like a Lazy Boy and less like a KITCHEN CHAIR... I dunno about you, but I hate sitting in a kitchen chair... or any upright chair....

    This is reason #1 I think that Dodge trucks are horrible... If I wanted to have "school bus" seating, I'd drive a school bus, not a passenger truck.

    Anyone notice how even the new 2002+ Dodges have that "upright" seating, and a steering wheel that is perpetually ****ed upward? No matter how mean the truck looks on the outside, on the inside it looks like your Aunt Maybell was driving.

    -Michael
    1998 K1500 Silverado Z71
    Flowmaster "original" 40-series duals, American Racing Atlas 16x8 wheels, 285/75-16 AT tires

  5. #5
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    I would like to buy a kit if possible the one's I have seen for Ford's come with seatbelt extensions and whatnot.

    But I have a feeling I will have to make something to do the job.
    Probably just cut the stock arm and weld in a extension piece trying to keep angel right and not too high.

    I would just take them out and get crazy witht the sub box but my kids need a place to sit. Another reason I want to make sure it is safe.

  6. #6
    i still lurk Luke2kZ71's Avatar
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    why not just get longer bolts? and put a wood spacer between the floor and seat?
    6.0 Swap, Powerdyne supercharger, SFA, 44" boggers, some other stuff

  7. #7
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    Originally posted by Luke2kZ71
    why not just get longer bolts? and put a wood spacer between the floor and seat?
    I don't know about your truck mine is a 98 and the seat attaches to the sides of the truck. There is a sqaure post sticking out of the side and the seat hooks up to that. It doesn't bolt to the floor that would be too fricking easy. Those engineers are alway's thinking of way's to make it harder on the end consumer.


    OH and I see my post was moved, sorry for putting it in the wrong place.






  8. #8
    The Big Sky State 1998chevy1500's Avatar
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    Here is an old email that I have sent a couple people who want to do the lift on an OBS chevy. I did it to fit forward fireing 10" subs.



    i have a '98 with the 3rd door so if you don't have the 3rd door it will be different.
    i went to a local junk yard and got the passanger side seat bracket from a non-3rd door ext cab (anywhere from 88-98 should work?) this is so that the brackets were mounted to the inside of the seat(look at a 3rd door rig and compare pass. to driv. and you will see what i mean)

    the pass bracket will differ from the 3rd door bracket in that it has a front "foot" but the back just has 2 welded nuts. to fix this you need to make a back "foot". the back foot needs to curve to the outside of the cab like the 3rd door one does or you will drill into a body mount.

    i used a peice of scrap angle iron to make the "foot" the metal was something like 3"x3"x8" and 1/4 " thick

    the time to do this was 9 hours from 9:00 PM to 6:00 AM (school FFA lockin and had both time and full access to the tools) but i had to make it up as i went along.

    1) i started by pulling the rear seat ( just the 2 bolts on the square shafts) then i pulled the carpet forward (i didn't remove the front seats but i would highly recomend doing it so that you have room to work)


    2) then remove the driverside bracket from inside the panel and throw it out. take the new bracket with its new "foot" and bolt it too the driv. side ot the seat and reinstall the seat to drill the mounting holes in the floor.

    3) now the risers themselves. i used 2"x1.5" 3/16 angle iron and cut it into 8 strips approx 4" long. i then drilled the holes in the metal and welded the angle iron together to form channel iron. the reason for using angle was that it was easyer to drill holes in.

    4) you then bolt it into the cab. you will notice that the 3rd door bracket uses studs. this is because the raised area of the cab has two skins. (if you look from underneath the cab you will see that it is flat but inside there is a hump. my fix to this problem was halfassed and i recomend a better approach!! i just cut a big fkin hole and shoved the bolt up through the hole and had someone on top to catch it.

    5) after tightening it down i laid the carpet back and cut around the new brackets.

    6) sit in the new seat and enjoy the elevated veiw now that only migets can sit comfortably in the back seat.

    7) even though i didn't do this i would recomend extending the seat belts so that they don't fall through the crack evey time that you fold the seat.

    i think that i covered all the bases on the risers. any questions just shoot me back. if you want info on the box let me know, i would write up how it was done but i've hade enough typeing for the day. just so you know the subs are RF Power HX2's 10" some day to be 10" L7's with a MTX 81000D. unfortunatly the stock alternator doesn't like the amp. the only other big mod i've done is turing the dash illumination to red to match my RF head unit.
    “Learn as if you were going to live forever; Live as if you were going to die tomorrow.”
    “In dating and mating, what is finally settled for is always a function of what is available.”

  9. #9
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    why not just tape wood blocks on the pedals and sit on a phone book like i do?

  10. #10
    Negative value imo AntiBling's Avatar
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    Originally posted by grendal


    My only comment is why in the heck would you want to sit so high?!? My head would hit the roof if I lifted my seat that high, and I have my power bucket seat adjusted as LOW as it will go, and I'm not even very tall (6'1")...

    He said he wants to raise the REAR Seat so he can fit bigger subs.

    As for raising the seats, Im 6'3" and am going to raise my seats sometime and wont hit my head, even off roading. I like sitting up higher, to me it just feels better and seems like I can see more, and would also be helpful for when I am pulling a trailer, i can see over the tailgate more.


    ****Sig removed by staff****

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    In other words, a Chevy seat is more comfortable because it sits more like a Lazy Boy and less like a KITCHEN CHAIR... I dunno about you, but I hate sitting in a kitchen chair... or any upright chair....
    I too am one that prefers a more upright seat. If I wanted to sit in a lazy boy, I wouldn't leave the house. I can not stand basically sitting on the floor of a vehicle. One of my old trucks was that way, (toyota) the seat wasn't more than 6-8" off the damn floor. Uncomfortable as heck on long trips.

    Brew

  12. #12
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    Originally posted by 1998chevy1500
    Here is an old email that I have sent a couple people who want to do the lift on an OBS chevy. I did it to fit forward fireing 10" subs.



    i have a '98 with the 3rd door so if you don't have the 3rd door it will be different.
    i went to a local junk yard and got the passanger side seat bracket from a non-3rd door ext cab (anywhere from 88-98 should work?) this is so that the brackets were mounted to the inside of the seat(look at a 3rd door rig and compare pass. to driv. and you will see what i mean)

    the pass bracket will differ from the 3rd door bracket in that it has a front "foot" but the back just has 2 welded nuts. to fix this you need to make a back "foot". the back foot needs to curve to the outside of the cab like the 3rd door one does or you will drill into a body mount.

    i used a peice of scrap angle iron to make the "foot" the metal was something like 3"x3"x8" and 1/4 " thick

    the time to do this was 9 hours from 9:00 PM to 6:00 AM (school FFA lockin and had both time and full access to the tools) but i had to make it up as i went along.

    1) i started by pulling the rear seat ( just the 2 bolts on the square shafts) then i pulled the carpet forward (i didn't remove the front seats but i would highly recomend doing it so that you have room to work)


    2) then remove the driverside bracket from inside the panel and throw it out. take the new bracket with its new "foot" and bolt it too the driv. side ot the seat and reinstall the seat to drill the mounting holes in the floor.

    3) now the risers themselves. i used 2"x1.5" 3/16 angle iron and cut it into 8 strips approx 4" long. i then drilled the holes in the metal and welded the angle iron together to form channel iron. the reason for using angle was that it was easyer to drill holes in.

    4) you then bolt it into the cab. you will notice that the 3rd door bracket uses studs. this is because the raised area of the cab has two skins. (if you look from underneath the cab you will see that it is flat but inside there is a hump. my fix to this problem was halfassed and i recomend a better approach!! i just cut a big fkin hole and shoved the bolt up through the hole and had someone on top to catch it.

    5) after tightening it down i laid the carpet back and cut around the new brackets.

    6) sit in the new seat and enjoy the elevated veiw now that only migets can sit comfortably in the back seat.

    7) even though i didn't do this i would recomend extending the seat belts so that they don't fall through the crack evey time that you fold the seat.

    i think that i covered all the bases on the risers. any questions just shoot me back. if you want info on the box let me know, i would write up how it was done but i've hade enough typeing for the day. just so you know the subs are RF Power HX2's 10" some day to be 10" L7's with a MTX 81000D. unfortunatly the stock alternator doesn't like the amp. the only other big mod i've done is turing the dash illumination to red to match my RF head unit.
    Wouldn't happen to have any pics would ya?

  13. #13
    go go gadget supension
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    I have the 2 10s under my back seat in the boxes. But I miss want more louder sound so my idea was to remove the back seat the part u sit on. Get the sub box a regular box not a truck box and mount feet so it will sit over the hump. Then mount the seat to the top of the box. Well thats my project dont know if it will work or not but I hope so.
    2001 Black X-tended Cab LT Z-71 Silverado

    run with the pac

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  14. #14
    Forum Leader nebraskaz71's Avatar
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    i got a box for 2 12s under mine stock but heres what i was gonna do to my 98......... sound dumb but works just unbolt it and use lotta washers on the main bolts and raise it up an inch or so

    No its not stock height!
    1998 GMC "TOY"
    2005 Chevy 2500HD "DAILY"

  15. #15
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    Originally posted by nebraskaz71
    i got a box for 2 12s under mine stock but heres what i was gonna do to my 98......... sound dumb but works just unbolt it and use lotta washers on the main bolts and raise it up an inch or so
    If you're gonna go that route, just use a nut that is the next size up - takes up space without all the washers.

  16. #16
    The Big Sky State 1998chevy1500's Avatar
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    really don't have many pics, espically on the internet but here is one http://www.cardomain.com/id/1998chevy1500

    conrad
    “Learn as if you were going to live forever; Live as if you were going to die tomorrow.”
    “In dating and mating, what is finally settled for is always a function of what is available.”

 

 

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