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Reply With QuoteI wish the pictures worked on my computer, then I would have read it. JK, I read it. I wish I had money to play around with the truck with.
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This is a discussion on Todays projects, Painless dual battery setup.....(pics) within the Offroad forums, part of the General Discussion category; .......
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Last edited by chevytaHOE5674; 03-02-2010 at 07:29 PM.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
I wish the pictures worked on my computer, then I would have read it. JK, I read it. I wish I had money to play around with the truck with.
-Daniel
1998 K1500 L31/4L60e/241/8.5/9.5
Bogger Chapter
Some people are just educated beyond their intelligence.
-Jerry Clower
I've always wondered, but are both batteries being charged constantly as well, or only the one you have it switched to? It seems like one would constantly be going dead otherwise.
1998 Tahoe LS stock with 285/75 Terra Grapplers
with the switch centered only the stock battery is charged and drained.
Switch on green side both are charged and drained but only with the key in Run or Start. So if you shut the truck off and leave the lights on only the stock battery will go dead. Come back flip the switch to red and it will start right up.
Switch to red both batteries charged and drained no matter where the key is.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
funny, i actually have a yellow top on the way myself, and i put back-up lights just like those on a month ago, i was still undecided whether i was going to install an isolator, but i think you just made up my mind for me as i will probably go with an isolator, i've got one on my boat and it works great. which brand/model is it and how much can i expect to pay? you should put some e-fans on next, i'm starting an e-fan conversion and it is turning out to be really easy and cheap
here's where i wired my lights for anybody with a NBS and nothing to do with that blank space in your overhead console... now where to put my battery switch? also, do you have any pics of your pillar gauges?
blue - front offroad lights
red - rear aux lights
Last edited by ryanmhale; 12-29-2006 at 08:50 AM.
2001 Silverado Z-71 Sport Side - 5.3 Vortec|4L60E|NP246|G80|4.56 gears|37" MGs|9" lift (6+3)|11 mpg
K&N|straight pipes|e-fans|dual batts|remote start|programmer|offroad & rev lights|recovery rings F/R
i have the painless 40103 kit it was 180 bucks from Summit racing found mine on ebay for like 90 bucks brand new 250amp weatherproof. My brother did E-Fans and i am thinking about doing the same soon, need to finds some Taurus or F-Body fans to make my life easy.
The isolator is worth it because if you don't then both batteries are connected all the time and if you leave your lights on and run the battery dead then your SOL. With this kit flip the switch over to red and start it up. Just be sure you leave it on green all the time so the second battery stays charged. And if the keys are out of the ignition and you are running stuff leave the switch to green. If the key is in the Run position then center the switch to discharge only one battery.
I will get some pics of the A-pillar in a while..
Last edited by chevytaHOE5674; 12-29-2006 at 10:23 AM.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
awsome kit
you are keeping busy over your break
2004 Chevy Silverado ECSB Z-71-----LOUD PIPES...SAVE LIVES D.F.W.A
i just bought a 200 amp isolator and a 3 position switch today... i believe i have all the other odds and ends laying around... wires, terminal ends, indicator lights, fuse (5-40amp assortment) w/ holder
what amp fuse does yours use?
am i missing anything and is the wiring pretty easy to figure out?
my cab is looking more like a ****pit these days but anyways here's how i have everything setup so far....... blue and red lights with a 3 position switch and the other switch with a built in led is for the electric fan manual override (nothing is wired yet)
Last edited by ryanmhale; 12-29-2006 at 09:38 PM.
2001 Silverado Z-71 Sport Side - 5.3 Vortec|4L60E|NP246|G80|4.56 gears|37" MGs|9" lift (6+3)|11 mpg
K&N|straight pipes|e-fans|dual batts|remote start|programmer|offroad & rev lights|recovery rings F/R
Ive always wanted a dual battery setup. I just havent found the funds for the second battery
Swamper Brotherhood
SSR Chapter
the only fuses in mine go between the keyed power 10amp and between the isolator and the switch also a 10 amp. The wiring is easy if you have a good knowledge of the system and how it works. I read the instructions and then just wired it how i wanted it to work.
Go to this link and scroll down to the 40103 and read through it. Will give you a general idea.
http://www.painlesswiring.com/InfoSearch/manuals.php
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
thanks buddy
2001 Silverado Z-71 Sport Side - 5.3 Vortec|4L60E|NP246|G80|4.56 gears|37" MGs|9" lift (6+3)|11 mpg
K&N|straight pipes|e-fans|dual batts|remote start|programmer|offroad & rev lights|recovery rings F/R
no problem, any other questions, concerns, problems just ask and i will do my best to answer yoy. Will get some A-pillar pics tomorrow sometime.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
Not to hiujack (or bump an old thread) but why couldn't one just use a solenoid like ford uses for their starters to make the same thing work for less money?
because the starter solenoids aren't rated for a continuous 250 amps. They are rated for momentary spikes of high amperage.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
fair enough
chevytaHOE5674: Off topic, what happened to your Dana 60 you proudly listed on your sig line?
GEEMONS: '96 4-Door Tahoe w/Whippled Vortec 5.7L, Marine Intake, 0411, Upgraded Internals, 4L80E/14BSF/D44 w/ Superior Chromos & 4.56 Gears, 35" Toyo MTs, CTM U-Joints, Dedenbear Knuckles & Warn 16.5ti Winch
its in my garage, waiting and accumulating parts for the swap down the road.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
where did you get the second battery tray for the driver side?
95 2dr tahoe tbi 5.7 Sold
2005 GMC 2500HD 6.0 cranked on 285's
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