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This is a discussion on Rock Sliders within the Offroad forums, part of the General Discussion category; Im planning on making some rock sliders and im looking for some input as to what material and thikness to ...
Im planning on making some rock sliders and im looking for some input as to what material and thikness to use. Also how many frame connections and the distance from the rocker panel. this is what i have as far as design. The round tube will stick out further than the body pannels so i can pusf off of trees.
Also im looking for some pics for maybe some different ideas.
98 2 door z71 tahoe, leveled with 33" BFG Mud Terrains, KC Light Bar, Kicker CVR 12's, RF Power 250.2(old school), Alpine R-Type Components
Kyle's sliders
2x3 3/16 wall for the rectangle. 3 frame supports. The round tube is 1.25 .120 wall.
And unless you make them stick out a longgggg ways they wont allow you to really push off trees unless you are on perfectly flat ground. As soon as you get on an angle the roof sticks out a ways.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
Yeah, at least 3/16 wall, and I would put 4 points to mount to the frame.
***Current***
'97 ecsb z71, 6" RCX, 3" PA BL, 35x12.50x15 procomp, other mods.
USMCOriginally Posted by HawgWyld
I will take a picture of mine this weekend I made. They are 1.75 HERW .120.
He has a 2 door tahoe what is the need for 4 attachment points?
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
im fine with overkill. I mean what would be the disadvantage of doing more? also where do yall order steel from?
98 2 door z71 tahoe, leveled with 33" BFG Mud Terrains, KC Light Bar, Kicker CVR 12's, RF Power 250.2(old school), Alpine R-Type Components
no disadvantage, your local steel yard
No disadvantage, just a matter of fitting them all in there. I have 3 supports and have little deflection when lifting the truck up.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
how much do yall think these will cost? just raw steel. i can do all the fab myself.
98 2 door z71 tahoe, leveled with 33" BFG Mud Terrains, KC Light Bar, Kicker CVR 12's, RF Power 250.2(old school), Alpine R-Type Components
A lot depends on what material you use for the round stock. If you go with a DOM tube it is more pricey than HERW.
Going to weld them directly to the frame or bolt them on? If you bolt them on like I did then you need plate to bolt to.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
Where are you in Louisiana. In Hammond they have Tangy industrial, thats where I get all my steel from. I order DOM from Ballistic Fab.
im in baton rouge. Whats the difference in dom and herw?
98 2 door z71 tahoe, leveled with 33" BFG Mud Terrains, KC Light Bar, Kicker CVR 12's, RF Power 250.2(old school), Alpine R-Type Components
i only have two mounts, bolted on with 1/2" plates and i can jack my truck up with them with minimal deflection. The material i used was 2.5" 3/16 wall square tubing and 2" .125 wall DOM. I havent really dropped my truck on them though, but ive dragged the bottom quite a bit and they havent fail yet.
In hindsite i would definitely add some more bracing and maybe another mount. Im sure if i dropped of a rock onto them (i dont rock climb so im not too worried) they would bend/break. Also, in your drawing in the first post, i would definitely box the tube in on the ends to keep crap out. (im sure you were anyway).
1998 GMC K1500
2009 VW Jetta TDizzle
My Flickr
Process and yield strength as well as surface hardness.
My round tube is 1-1/2 HREW and it's yielded in the middle of the span under the passenger door. It's only about an inch, and it took a hard hit but it did fail technically. I'm not planning to replace it however.
Both DOM and HREW will deflect the same amount under the same load. The question is at what point will they not return to their original shape (yield point). DOM will elastically deform past the point HREW will yield meaning it can absorb more impact before you will see visual result from the load after the fact. With steel's fatigue life it's a very nice extra bit to have.
As of November ~20th 1-3/4" .120 DOM was $3.23/ft IIRC and HREW in the same size was ~$2/ft (my HREW was free so I can't be 100% of the $/ft amount).
Last edited by bggrnchvy; 12-08-2008 at 08:22 PM.
1997 K1500 ECSB LQ9/80e/241/D60f/C14FF
2006 Dodge 2500 610CTD/G56/271/AAM9.25/AAM11.5
im also planning on making a set... anyone add hi-lift jacking points on rock sliders?
6 inch pro comp lift, 3 inch PA body lift, 38x15.50R20 Nitto Mud Grapplers
Custom quick disconnect plexi mudflaps, Front sway bar quick disconnects
Build Thread
You mean like the entire length of tubing.....
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
let me rephrase. do you need to do anything special to keep the hi-lift drom sliding... like add flat spots or something
6 inch pro comp lift, 3 inch PA body lift, 38x15.50R20 Nitto Mud Grapplers
Custom quick disconnect plexi mudflaps, Front sway bar quick disconnects
Build Thread
My highlift doesnt slide on the round tube unless your at an angle.
2000 Tahoe Z71, 14bFF 6 lug, 241 swap, bumpers, sliders.
1988 K5, 350/700R/241 locked 10B, welded 12B, 35's, half doors.
thx, that was my only concern.
what u do when your at an angle.
6 inch pro comp lift, 3 inch PA body lift, 38x15.50R20 Nitto Mud Grapplers
Custom quick disconnect plexi mudflaps, Front sway bar quick disconnects
Build Thread
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