ABS delete; What master cylinder are you runnig with your SAS?

[DennisTA15]

Hey guys, my ABS is giving me problems. At least thats what I think it is, reguardless it's gotta go anyways. It seems that my left front caliper is always slightly dragging. I've replaced it 4 times before to no avail. I have braided ss lines on, and have bled them good a number of times. Everytime I replace both front calipers and my right one has never given me any problems. Anyways, I'm still wanting to delete my ABS and wanted to know what everyone with a SAS is running. I'm looking to do this only once the correct way so when I SAS I won't have to do much, except pop the axles in and hook the lines up.

Here's a run down of what my SAS will be:
HP Dana 44 front with Chevy front disc, rotors and single piston calipers.
Dana 60 rear with disc. either Caddy calipers or Chevy single piston calipers again. This way all 4 rotors are the same and possibly all 4 calipers are the same.

Basically, I'm thinking I need a 3/4 ton master cylinder that will bolt to my power booster and not have the goofy ABS line size. I will also need a propotioning valve, adjustable would be prefered.

Any suggestions or input on what you guys are running is much appreciated.

[daved931]

What about going to hydroboost?

[bggrnchvy]

IFS calipers are designed to work with the stock MC quick take-up valve. This pulls the pads away from the rotor ever so slightly reducing drag helping GM meet CAFE standards.

The old calipers don't always work with the quick take up valve and as such can drag on the the rotor sometimes.

My solution was to mount a hydroboost MC out of a K30 in my truck. I turned a ring so the indexing from my stock vacubooster would mate with the new MC. It has a larger bore as well which firmed up my pedal, but not too much being I'm running a 60 front (what it was designed for).

A warning about the ABS, the stock proportioning valve is integral to it. You'll need to mount a new one in the rear line to prevent locking the rear brakes up prematurely if you delete it.

[chevy7398]

4 wheel disc vacume boosted master from early 2000's chevy/gmc (rpojc5) at advanced auto parts its Part No. 13-2881, pic is with a duramax 4wheel disc master (rpojh6) it was a litle to big of bore, saved it for when i go hydro though. and a prop block / dist block in one.

[88GMCtruck]

Considering I didn't have to get rid of ABS on my truck, my setup is a little simpler.

D44 stock discs in front, 14b SF 11" drums in rear. Running through the stock proportioning vavle and a 88 K2500 master. It works better than it did stock, firm pedal, no lockup and stops on a dime.

[DennisTA15]

Thanx for all of the help and input guys, I really appreciate it. As for hydro boost, I had thought about that, but I want to keep my truck simple in design and on a lower budget. This summer my goals would be to get the truck on the axles and drivable. I know about needing a proportioning valve and had a similar setup as Chevy7398 in my mind, that looks like what I'm wanting. Did you have any problems getting lines to match up size wise, because the ABS flare nuts seem to be a goofy thread and size, and adapters aren't easy to come by, it's a safety thing so people don't take out their ABS lol? Did you guys replace all of your hard brake lines?
Thanx again for all of the advice guys.

[bhookxen]

Digging an old one up, I know, but am curious if deleting the abs gained a significant improvement or not by going to a simpler Pre-abs set-up?

I'm finally at the point where I can't stand mine anymore and something needs to be done to greatly improve the stopping power.