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diy posi lock?

This is a discussion on diy posi lock? within the Offroad forums, part of the General Discussion category; i tried to find it but does anyone have a link to the thread where the person made a thing ...

  1. #1
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    diy posi lock?


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    i tried to find it but does anyone have a link to the thread where the person made a thing that replaces the actuator on the front diff so its always locked in? i tried to use my 4wd last night and it wouldnt engage. this is for a 95 tahoe thanks

    95 4x4 tahoe- was-2 inch crank block 3inch body lift 35 bfg m/t. 102ss whip with cobra 19.
    in the works- no bl sas 10 bolt front 35s 91 np241c

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3856942

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    Re: diy posi lock?

    im not exactly sure how the kit works but i know its not to expensive to get the pull cable one for the front end

    the lil rod that makes it stay engauged all the time is gonna wear parts out alot faster from what ive read elsewhere

    only other option would to just replace the actuator....im not sure if the 95 still had the thermo one or not but the elec one is supposed to be better...im pretty sure i need a new one too...but im not gonna even try it yet w/ the mis matched gears
    97 z71,3" body lift, tow mirrors, cranked and AAL, 35" KM2's, 4.56 gears w/lockright, 6k HID's, strobes/lightbar/leds
    06 2500hd 6.0 gasser, 4" lift, 37" Toyos on 20" rockstars, 20" lightbar behind grill, colormatching in progress

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    Supporting Gold Member GreaseDog's Avatar
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    Re: diy posi lock?

    you'll easily save the price of the cable actuator in front end parts that don't wear out.
    77 Chevy K20 - 80 GMC K2500 (in pieces)
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    Resident Dick Quyonmob's Avatar
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    Re: diy posi lock?

    Throw a large socket in there, and put the actuator back in, don't connect. Takes some hit and miss to get the depth right.

    Lots of guys around here throw solid objects in there for the winter. Call them "dildos".

    The wear isn't a big deal, it's an open diff, the CV's were already spinning anyhow, now the diff just rolls the DS in 2WD, same as leaving SFA hubs locked (SFA hubs unlocked actually do a better job of saving the front end than this CAD system.).
    Last edited by Quyonmob; 09-10-2011 at 01:29 PM.

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    Re: diy posi lock?

    i may try the socket thing. i saw a thread on there where they showd how to make the one like posi lock makes tat has it engaged all the time and no cable option. they sell it for like 85 and the selctable one is around 200. trying to make it more reliable and on the cheap

    95 4x4 tahoe- was-2 inch crank block 3inch body lift 35 bfg m/t. 102ss whip with cobra 19.
    in the works- no bl sas 10 bolt front 35s 91 np241c

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3856942

  6. #6
    Registered User wes761's Avatar
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    Re: diy posi lock?

    Quote Originally Posted by Quyonmob View Post
    Throw a large socket in there, and put the actuator back in, don't connect. Takes some hit and miss to get the depth right.

    Lots of guys around here throw solid objects in there for the winter. Call them "dildos".

    The wear isn't a big deal, it's an open diff, the CV's were already spinning anyhow, now the diff just rolls the DS in 2WD, same as leaving SFA hubs locked (SFA hubs unlocked actually do a better job of saving the front end than this CAD system.).


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    Re: diy posi lock?

    so i should no replace ith a new one and stick a socket like an inch long in there? if i could find the thread on ho the person made the dummy actuator i would make one but if socket works the same then ill do that. will the 4d light come on?

    95 4x4 tahoe- was-2 inch crank block 3inch body lift 35 bfg m/t. 102ss whip with cobra 19.
    in the works- no bl sas 10 bolt front 35s 91 np241c

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3856942

  8. #8
    Registered User Motofalcon's Avatar
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    Re: diy posi lock?

    Well, I don't have a thread or pics, but I did what you are talking about back when I had an actuator fail me. But this only works with the motor/gear actuator, not the thermal one. Disconnect and remove the actuator from the diff. Then drill out the 3 rivets that are holding it together. Pull the end off where the electric plug is (the end with the electric motor and gears in it). What you should be left with it just the end that threads into the diff. Sticking out of that piece is about a half inch of a steel shaft that has a flat ground onto it (it used to have a triangle piece of plastic holding the planetary gears on it). If you use pliers to twist that shaft, then the other end should extend (the end that normally extends to lock the diff) about 1 1/4 inches or so. Get it fully extended, then thread the whole thing back into the diff housing, and now it's locked in.

    Hopefully that makes sense - basically, get rid of the motor/gearbox so that you can manually twist/extend the actuator and then put it back in so it holds the diff locked. Of course, this does somewhat ruin the actuator, so I would only do this to one that no longer works. And no, the 4wd light will not come on (the actuator has a circuit board that tells the truck when it is extended so the light comes on - since it is no longer connected, the light won't work)

    I wouldn't recommend putting some random loose socket in there...
    98 K3500, 454/4l80E, 14BFF/D60 combo, 3" BL, 38" dirt grips

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    Re: diy posi lock?

    ill have to look into that. seems like a better idea than puttin a random socket in there. sounds cool that i can lock and unlock it too

    95 4x4 tahoe- was-2 inch crank block 3inch body lift 35 bfg m/t. 102ss whip with cobra 19.
    in the works- no bl sas 10 bolt front 35s 91 np241c

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3856942

  10. #10
    Resident Dick Quyonmob's Avatar
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    Re: diy posi lock?

    You can make anthing you want, I've seen actuators hacked to have a piece of ready rod down the middle to act as the plunger, with jam nuts as depth stops.

    To get a better idea how simple the system you are working with is;



    All you need to do is keep #18 depressed to keep the diff engaged.

 

 

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