Help me troubleshoot my engine surging...

[CoonToot]

OK, got a new gremlin that has me wondering. Here's the deal: just purchased a used boat and was towing it last week from the boat ramp, about a 12 mile drive. About 1/2 way home the tranny was having trouble deciding when to lock the converter while at part throttle in 3rd (no OD while towing ). With the added weight of the boat it actually shuddered and groaned 2 or 3 times. Oh great, the tranny I had rebuilt 6 month ago is f'in up! Tow it home, park the boat and trailer and drive down the highway. Same indecisiveness although no weird noises. AT WOT it acted normal. Take it to the tranny guy (whom I trust). He takes it for an hour jaunt out in the country with a Tech2 hooked up. No codes at all, BUT twice in a 10 minute period the Tech2 completely powered down and he had to reinput the VIN,etc. He said he has never had that happen before with his Tech2 and that it is completely powered by the ALDL connection. He also diagnosed my problem as a fuel delivery problem, not a tranny problem. He dropped the pan to be 100% sure and says everything looks perfect. Oh, and all this diagnostic work was at No Charge even though they had at least 1.5 hours into it!
OK, here is what I am thinking:
1) replace battery cable-many others have had electrical gremlins from acid in the battery wicking into the cable-figured that would be the cheapest place to start since the truck is 5 yrs old and still on the originals
2) replace POSSIBLY defective PCM - PCM is 4th one I've had from Nelson Performance. Maybe it just is going bad? I need an update anyways for my new 34" dia tires and the cost would just be shipping the PCM both ways
3) flow test and/or replace current SVO 42lb injectors that I purchased used. I don't wanna do this since new ones are probably $400 for the set. I have spliced new connectors on so I can't go with any others unless I want to go through that process again (and I don't). I guess 3A) check all my injector splices should be another step, huh? I replaced the fuel filter about 6000 miles ago so I don't think that is the culprit.

Any other suggestions on what/where to look??

[FergieZ71]

DUDE honestly I would go to a different transmission guy. Boats aren't that heavy, you shouldn't have had any trouble pulling that. Either that or you might just want to get a new tranny. That sounds real weird to me. If you trust the guy he should have done alot better then that.

[airdeano]

for grins and giggles you might wanna try this:
disconnect the negative battery lead (make sure the cell isnt plugging into a
power outlet).
press the horn button and brake pedal for one minute.
reconnect the negative battery cable.
this exercise will deplete the "e" cell and wipe out the short and long term memories.
these memories story histories, and these histories can conflict each other. the
vehicles computer is dumb as a rock, but can do mathmatics really, really fast.
everything it does is a mathmatical problem and algorythmns. and if there is a
null response this is factored into an averaged equation. this is called the
Keep Alive Memory System. clearing the KAMS
has fixed alot of trans errors and general drivability issues on OBDII.
another place to "look" at is the MAF wiring. the whipple FMU slaves a signal from
the MAF. if this is feedback or signal dropping, this inforamtion is relayed to the
PCM and will effect transmission operation.
same with aftermarket MAF. the so-called recalibrations are frequent problems with
trans operation. mainly resulting in 0300 misfire codes which lock out TC operations
and can cause ill shifting.
airdeano

[CoonToot]

Airdeano-

I will perform the KAMS clear tomorrow. Is there still a completed circuit even though the negative battery cable is disconnected?

No Whipple craptronics here, although I will be sure to inspect the MAF wiring extension that came with the Whipple kit. Maybe a pinched/frayed/burnt wire?

No aftermarket MAF either.

Thanks for the help!!

[stRanger]

did this fix your problem becuase i am having issues with my truck... after driving for a while my RPMS flucuate up and down.. sometimes 200-600 when at a light, sometimes 800 at a light, and in park or nuetral it idels at 1100 RPM... really screwed up.. let it set for 10 min or so and it is fine.... reallllly starting a piss me off.....

[CoonToot]

A new iteration of my Nelson tune fixed it...no problems now.