Any idea what gears you have? That would probably help the greatest in towing (stepping up to lower gears that is).
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This is a discussion on 95 Chevy, need more torque for towing within the Performance forums, part of the General Discussion category; Hi, I have a bone stock 95 chevy 4 wheel drive that I use for towing a car trailer. this ...
Hi, I have a bone stock 95 chevy 4 wheel drive that I use for towing a car trailer. this thing is a slug when towing, actually it is a slug in general. It is a 350 engine with auto trans. What simple things can I check, and add ons for more towing torque.
thank you.
mike
Any idea what gears you have? That would probably help the greatest in towing (stepping up to lower gears that is).
D/D-2006 HHR 1LT 5-Speed.
1996 Silverado, 5.7, FIPKII, Elect Fans, S/S Headers, Duals, Wait4Me, 4/5 drop on 18" Weld Evo Velosity's. STOLEN ON 9/9/2006
upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust
Id start with intake and exhaust since theyre easy installs and help out pretty well.
Then I'd regear to a lower ratio.
Could also look into a new camshaft. I know Crane has out a line for offroading with more low end power. They only cost like $160+install.
1998 GMC K1500
2009 VW Jetta TDizzle
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Is it running correctly? When I had an exhaust leak mine ran like poo, couldn't go up any kind of hill without dropping out of OD...fixed it and now it runs like a champ. I'd make sure its running right before going for mods.
As for mods, my first would be long tube headers.
Rest in Peace Jason Payne
Get some stock vortec heads, about $400.00 instant 40hp gain. You will have to get a vortec compatable intake manifold for $200.00 (maybe less), match the intake runners to the head for a few more garanteed hp. Add a adjustable fuel pump regulator (less than $100.00) adjusted for an honest 12-13 pounds pressure, and a decent set of headers for less than $200.00. ov
After gaskets, etc. you have spent under $1000, and you are gaining 75-80 real horsepower, in the mid range where you need it for towing, maybe a little more. After these mods the horsepower you can get per dollar spent will go up. Later on you can add a cam, get a custom tuneed chip etc.
You might want to consider a transmission cooler with its own electric fan, and a shift kit or at least a corvett servo.
Diamond Jim
98 Burb, 5.7L, 2500LS, 4X4; 80 GMC 383, ½, Long bed; 74 Dually Flatbed 350; 73 Short bed 350 4X4; 41 Chevy Master Deluxe, 327/375hp Rochester FI; 89 Fleetwood Bounder, 2 ton Chevy Chassis, 454/TH425
mike,Originally Posted by mdy69
welcome to the forum.
a couple of things to check are:
ignition (plugs, cap, coil, wires) condition and wear
fuel system (pressure, delivery, and pattern)
general (compression, exhaust, induction)
this wont break the bank, but can give you a better baseline
on what you have.
common upgrades are:
throttle body mods
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...hlight=toolbox
air intake, simple exhaust, throttle body spacer, performance
chip.
airdeano
2001 Silverado 4.8L 4-spd Automatic 3.42
? horsepower
? torque
will find out soon!
1965 C10 5.3L (SSR) TH4L60e
(It's Alive! 07/04 It Drives! 03/05 Daily Driver XX/08!)
Wow, thanks for the great advise, lots of good reading. I just rescently purchased the truck and have not touched anything yet, will tune it up first, and I know there is a light exhaust leak. Will do all this first before any mods.
mike
Do a standard tune up, replace all filters, throw on the biggest auxillary transcooler you can fit (I've got 2, stock radiator, to a 8x15x.75 behind the radiator, to a 8x10 behind the grill through an additional trans filter back to the trans), make sure there's no leaks at the doughnuts or manifolds, and then worry about mods.
I put in a K&N drop in filter, took that muffler thing at the fender and took out the inner tube, took out the pre-heater vavle, and welded the hole in the intake shut where the velve was, and put in an adjustable timing chain kit and camshaft. I'm slowly finishing all the small **** on the turck to get it running since I tore it apart last friday (not my primary vehicle, just spend a bit here and there).
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Isnt a gear swap more difficult in these years becuase there is no rear in the front. Ive swapped gears on older models with 2 rears, dont know much about these.
mike
gear swap is pretty straight-forward like all ring and
pinion vehicles. the rear being a corporate GM 8.5" and
front (i dunna know).
airdeano
2001 Silverado 4.8L 4-spd Automatic 3.42
? horsepower
? torque
will find out soon!
1965 C10 5.3L (SSR) TH4L60e
(It's Alive! 07/04 It Drives! 03/05 Daily Driver XX/08!)
that intake manifold is more like $300+. you will have to ditch the EGR or get it plumbed into the exhaust. i doubt he would see 75 horsepower with all of that especially if he uses the stock cam/exhaust. the vortec motors were rated at 255 horsepower and thats with the vortec heads, better cam/exhaust,fuel injection.Originally Posted by Diamond Jim
Belltech 2/2 | Vortec longblock | GMPP intake | bored 2" TBI | 2500 stall | stock 3.42's | Hooker LT's | Bullets | 8k HID | 5% tint
I am glad you know so much more than everybody else. You need to check e-bay and some of the on-line catalogs and find out what the prices really are. E-bay "Buy-it-now" prices start at about $110 and go up to $221 (including shipping) for a new Edelbrock Air Gap Vortec Intake Manifold. Vortec 5.7 engines have one of the wimpest low lift cams GM ever put in a engine that size, and the vortec heads don't even have large valves either, its because the flow so well that they produce an instant 40 additional hp. As for as the fuel injection, that is the weak point on these engines. The 19 pound injectors are what stops these engines from making any real power.Originally Posted by diadora516
Diamond Jim
98 Burb, 5.7L, 2500LS, 4X4; 80 GMC 383, ½, Long bed; 74 Dually Flatbed 350; 73 Short bed 350 4X4; 41 Chevy Master Deluxe, 327/375hp Rochester FI; 89 Fleetwood Bounder, 2 ton Chevy Chassis, 454/TH425
The above replies are mostly good, but I had an experience with my old 1971 350 that might be pertinent to your 350, Mine ran like a champ with plenty of power until It blew an upper radiator hose an got the engine very hot. Afterwards, the 350 was a real dog on power and gradually got worse with age. I finally put a new crate engine in it. In the interim, I did most of the things suggested with no luck. Although the cam made a big improvement for a while. Afterwards, I should have just put in a new short block and kept my old heads.
DickW- 1992Silverado K2500HD 454 CI, 4:10, ext. cab longbox. 1997 Sunneybrook 27RFKS 5ver. Also have installed a Banks Power Pack System on the 454 which really makes it perform as a 454 should. Used to own a 1971 C20 chev 350CI.
im not saying the vortec cam is awesome, just better than the one in the tbi motors. the L31 engine is better than the L05. you can't put some vortec heads on and expect to make MORE power than the vortec motor. and will those intake manifolds work with TBI?Originally Posted by Diamond Jim
Belltech 2/2 | Vortec longblock | GMPP intake | bored 2" TBI | 2500 stall | stock 3.42's | Hooker LT's | Bullets | 8k HID | 5% tint
I also have to agree, you will not see 75 FWHP from that. 25 MAYBE! The TBI cam doesn't take advantage of the TBI heads flow, much less Vortec head flow.
Last edited by Fast305; 06-18-2006 at 12:42 AM.
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