There is a 400 small block![]()
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This is a discussion on biggest cubic inch small block within the Performance forums, part of the General Discussion category; I know eagle and maybe others make make 396 stroker kits for SBC's but is there any other kit or ...
I know eagle and maybe others make make 396 stroker kits for SBC's but is there any other kit or any way to get more cubic inches out of a small block? A few years ago HPTV build a 472 small block but the deck heighth and everything was changed to allow for such a big displacement. The eagle 396 stroker kit with .060 over pistons would make a 401 but boring that much isn't the best choice to make. Just curious.
1995 Silverado - ported vortec heads, 4L80E, efans, LT4 Hot Cam, Rear disc brake conversion w/drilled and slotted rotors
1999 NBS Silverdo - transgo HD2 shift kit, 3 inch dynomax ultra flow, Ford keys and 305/70-16 Mickey ATZs
There is a 400 small block![]()
I mean taking a stock 87-95 TBI block and getting as many cubes out of it as possible.Originally Posted by Blaze5509
1995 Silverado - ported vortec heads, 4L80E, efans, LT4 Hot Cam, Rear disc brake conversion w/drilled and slotted rotors
1999 NBS Silverdo - transgo HD2 shift kit, 3 inch dynomax ultra flow, Ford keys and 305/70-16 Mickey ATZs
You can build a 434 inch SBC without any problems...Hardcore (Bill Mitchell) builds a 454 SBC...I can't remember if the deck height is different than a stock 400 or not.
Sig courtesy of: ilikedirt
2002 Chevrolet Z71 ECSB LT, 305/70-16 Toyo Open Country AT2's, 3" BL, Flex-a-lite 292 E-Fans
O well if you are using a 350 block then a 396 is probably about as far as you can go. I would just got tried and true with the 383. You better find something better to feed it than the stock TBI though.Originally Posted by oldred95
Might want to check out how strong those blocks are...I know they are 2-bolt blocks...2-bolt blocks can be good and bad...talk to a reputable machine shop and they should be able to tell you.
Sig courtesy of: ilikedirt
2002 Chevrolet Z71 ECSB LT, 305/70-16 Toyo Open Country AT2's, 3" BL, Flex-a-lite 292 E-Fans
An 850 cfm 2 barrel TBI and T4 garrett turbo are going to be feeding it. I plan to use either a 2 bolt main with splayed 4 bolt main conversion caps or a stock 4 bolt block.Originally Posted by 02Z
1995 Silverado - ported vortec heads, 4L80E, efans, LT4 Hot Cam, Rear disc brake conversion w/drilled and slotted rotors
1999 NBS Silverdo - transgo HD2 shift kit, 3 inch dynomax ultra flow, Ford keys and 305/70-16 Mickey ATZs
I'm told that the 2 bolt blocks will support up to 400 hp. I'm guessing that was for a strip application.Originally Posted by 02Z
Why do you say go w/ the 383 when you can stroke it to 396?Originally Posted by 02Z
I think the general rule is as you increase cu in via a longer crank you tend to give up redline and gain in lower end torque.Originally Posted by tee-boy
Yes, this is true. Stroking an engine increases the mass of the rotating assembly, which causes a drop in the RPM limit of the motor. In a truck application you don't necessarily want/need high RPMs, so 396 should be ok.
(If I remember correctly, a small block can be built up to 502 ci, but that's really stretching it pretty far.)
2002 Silverado 2500HD ECSB 4x4
K&N FIPK, Flowmaster 50 series cat-back, JET Performance Programmer, ONYX Spray On Bedliner, 285-75-16 Firestone Destination M/Ts, GoRhino Sport bar with Hella 550s (x4), SSBC Slotted Rotors
You can now make LS1's over 500 ci.![]()
That is one of the reasons I don't like stroked engines.Originally Posted by tee-boy
I would just keep a eye out on a Big Block and build it up.
1991 C1500 Ext. Scrapped. I still have the engine, tranny and Detroit tru-trac.
2005 GTO LS2 with full Pedders track II suspension. StreetsweeperHT cam with Kooks exhaust. Tuned.
The more you stroke it the more you'll spend in clearancing the block...and the more the parts are going to cost. If he sticks with a standard 3.75 stroke then the parts will only be 1/2 as much and it'll still make basically the same power. He may give up 15 hp, but that 15 hp is going to cost an arm and a leg.Originally Posted by tee-boy
Of course if he's going to have a T-4 on it then it's going to need the best of the best. That motor will make 700+ hp, easily. He's talking about a $10K motor, a $3K tranny, and a $2K rear to hold it together. Then he's on to suspension parts, etc. This is absolutely crazy and will cost $20K to keep it together and put the power to the ground...just build a stout N/A motor and be done with it. You can make a 9.5:1 383 make 500 hp easy...that's enough to put that truck deep into the 13's or maybe bumping into the 12's, depending on the setup.
Sig courtesy of: ilikedirt
2002 Chevrolet Z71 ECSB LT, 305/70-16 Toyo Open Country AT2's, 3" BL, Flex-a-lite 292 E-Fans
Yup, I just read the thread and .pdf on it the other day on one of these forums. That thing looks insane.Originally Posted by CKTA
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2081389
1996 Black 2 Door Yukon GT:
383ci, 9.9:1 SCR, Comp Cam XER 218/224 .570/.565 113LSA, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ported heads, Nelson tune, Vmax intake manifold spacer, 180 Tstat, Thorley headers, x-pipe, dual bullets
I found the link. Check out this pdf:Originally Posted by AyerForce
http://www.erlperformance.com/techbr...eve_Design.pdf
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2081389
1996 Black 2 Door Yukon GT:
383ci, 9.9:1 SCR, Comp Cam XER 218/224 .570/.565 113LSA, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ported heads, Nelson tune, Vmax intake manifold spacer, 180 Tstat, Thorley headers, x-pipe, dual bullets
oldred95:
If you get some great heads and have them tricked out, you can have all the horsepower potential you can imagine. Look at Cup engines...only 358 cubes, but making 850 horspower with a lot of homework done in the heads, intake and carb. Not that they are anywhere near stock, but you do not have to have 396 cubes to make 700 horsepower. www.airflowresearch.com
Look at AFR heads and control your slobbering when you see what they have! ha haThey have some choice pieces that really make power from idle to 8000-9000 rpm's if the heads are setup for that many rpms. AFR has a superb reputation and they can do virtually any machine shop work that can be dreamed up, plus send or buy a manifold from them and they'll make everything flow / work together.
You'll not go wrong with a great set of heads ever, they will not hurt the low end and will not hurt top end either.![]()
TBIChips Custom chip, 180 stat, 1" spacer,Witch Hunter injectors, Performance module-Cap-Rotor and 50,000 volt "Screamin' Demon" coil, Taylor 8.2mm wires, AC Delco plugs, true-duals, Magnaflow hi-flow cat, Spin-techs, 2" drop shackles...more after that!
Yeah, but how's he gonna adapt his TBI to it? :LOL: :LOL:Originally Posted by CKTA
Hot glue and lots of duct tape should do itOriginally Posted by Nick
The reason for the 396 is simple. The 383 is tried and true and its a good platform don't get me wrong but if a 396 kit is out there why not go with it. Believe it or not the fully forged 396 stroker kit is cheaper then the fully forged 383 stroker kit. See for yourself.
383:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
396:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
1995 Silverado - ported vortec heads, 4L80E, efans, LT4 Hot Cam, Rear disc brake conversion w/drilled and slotted rotors
1999 NBS Silverdo - transgo HD2 shift kit, 3 inch dynomax ultra flow, Ford keys and 305/70-16 Mickey ATZs
Yea, but with deck plates and the cylinders sleeved.Originally Posted by AyerForce
I saw the article on it last month I think it was, in Car Craft.
2001 rcsb Z71 06 clip, lowered, 6.0 LQ9, p&p 241s, cam, PI3600, LPP long tubes, etc. Tuned by TJ of Baker Engineering Inc - SOLD
1989 rcsb 4x4, solid axled, HP44/14ff, 4.88s, 35s/20s
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