Its not ultimate until there are some numbers to go along with it. I'm curious how you made a 2 piece rear main seal crank work in a 1 piece rear main block? Wrong link I suppose. Sounds nice and I'm sure it is but it doesn't sound ultimate to me.
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This is a discussion on Ultimate 383 stroker build thread within the Performance forums, part of the General Discussion category; Just thought I would list s few details in my 383 build. Maybe it will help some of you with ...
Just thought I would list s few details in my 383 build. Maybe it will help some of you with your build. I began with a stock l31 from a 2dr 2wd yukon. My plan was to buid a streetable daily driver. I feel I was successful.
I will begin with my parts list:
- k08-502-8 cam kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
- 2462 hkr headers
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
- b13005l eagle rotating assembly
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...ID=8074&CtgID=
- rhs12410k1 RHS Pro Torker heads
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...s.asp?dept=693
- mel 10555 melling hv oil pump
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
- gasket kit
- single roller timing chain set
- timing chain cover
- Tuned by Trifecta Performance
https://www.trifectaperformance.com/
I took the block to a local machine shop for decking, boring, cam bearings and a good cleaning. Once I had the block home we cleaned the block once more and began the assembly. The rotating assembly included rod bearings, they were wide and rubbed the crank journals and did not match the bevel on the the rods. So, I purchased a set of the clevite 77 "h" series bearings which had the bevel. We had to clearance the block in several places where the rod bolts came very close to the block. The windage tray also needs to be clearanced or removed/not installed. The assembly went well until it came time to install the double roller timing chain and gear set that came with the cam kit. A double roller will not fit on the vortec motors with a reluctor ring. I purchased and installed a single. The next problem I ran into was the hooker headers for the tbi trucks without egr. My 97 has egr, so I had the egr tuned out and I cut the egr tube and rolled-hammered flat.
The truck runs fine and has good power. I average between 14-16 mpg.
Here's some of the threads that helped me in my build and should answer almost any question you may have.
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...-99-tahoe.html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...e-383-kit.html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...esnt-work.html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...383-build.html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...size-plug.html
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6525
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6490
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...roll-call.html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...its-alive.html
This might not be the Ultimate 383 build thread but it should give you good start.
Wes
Last edited by 05BlackCrew; 01-08-2008 at 08:27 PM.
2002 GMC ECSB Z71
2005 Z71 Tahoe
1966 Ford F-100
Its not ultimate until there are some numbers to go along with it. I'm curious how you made a 2 piece rear main seal crank work in a 1 piece rear main block? Wrong link I suppose. Sounds nice and I'm sure it is but it doesn't sound ultimate to me.
1995 Silverado - ported vortec heads, 4L80E, efans, LT4 Hot Cam, Rear disc brake conversion w/drilled and slotted rotors
1999 NBS Silverdo - transgo HD2 shift kit, 3 inch dynomax ultra flow, Ford keys and 305/70-16 Mickey ATZs
Oldred95, Don't your think your being a bit rough on the guy? He didn't have to share any information with anyone. Truth be told, I found the information very helpful as this is something I've been looking at doing. He's done a lot of the leg work for me by providing links to threads he found useful while researching his project out. No where does he say that everything he read in the links applied to his build.
05BlackCrew, Are you concerned in any way with getting the engine past smogging? If memory serves me right, Midland folks do have to pass a smog test and that's been one of my bigger concerns in doing a project like this.
Thanks for sharing!
I'm a bad ass! With a big enough hammer you to can achieve great things!Originally Posted by oldred95
I corrected it. I know its not ultimate but if everyone chims in, it could be.
No smog test in Midland, the yukon past inspection 2 days ago. Thanks for the positive comments!Originally Posted by sortasuave
Last edited by 05BlackCrew; 01-08-2008 at 08:31 PM.
2002 GMC ECSB Z71
2005 Z71 Tahoe
1966 Ford F-100
I wouldn't be worried about emissions- at least here in AZ OBD2 vehicles only get a computer check- no tailpipe readings.
Glad you enjoy your new combo :)
78 c10, shortbed/stepside: 5/5" drop, muncie M20, 388 stroker. Playtoy and first vehicle.
98 gmc x-cab: 5.7L, 17"s, 5/6" drop, flowmaster,K&N, air ride helper bags, kicker sterio.
06 Honda CBR600F4i: freakin rocket ship
----------Disclaimer: I can't spell-----------
My post probably read a bit harsh but I was just trying to understand that its not the wildest but its not the mildest either right?Originally Posted by 05BlackCrew
1995 Silverado - ported vortec heads, 4L80E, efans, LT4 Hot Cam, Rear disc brake conversion w/drilled and slotted rotors
1999 NBS Silverdo - transgo HD2 shift kit, 3 inch dynomax ultra flow, Ford keys and 305/70-16 Mickey ATZs
Correct. I understand.Originally Posted by oldred95
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2002 GMC ECSB Z71
2005 Z71 Tahoe
1966 Ford F-100
Thanks for all the links. Saved me a bunch of time.!!!
Moroso makes a kit to adapt 2 pc rear main cranks to 1 piece blocks. FYI.
1995 Chevy Extended Cab 2wd: 14 FF, HSR 406, NV4500, Solid Front Axle
whats the point when you can just buy the correct crank in the first place?Originally Posted by axisT6
**Flat Broke Racing**
1989 Chevy RCSB Stepside, 427 LSX block, PT106 turbo, Lenko 6spd Manual, Moser M9 rear, tube chassis, full cage, NBS front clip, rear step shavers, Zo6 seats, A/C, 1050hp street tune and daily drivable!
Thats my thought as well.Originally Posted by Justin_Inc
1995 Silverado - ported vortec heads, 4L80E, efans, LT4 Hot Cam, Rear disc brake conversion w/drilled and slotted rotors
1999 NBS Silverdo - transgo HD2 shift kit, 3 inch dynomax ultra flow, Ford keys and 305/70-16 Mickey ATZs
Is this a factory hydraulic roller block?
http://www.myspace.com/joe87montess
2004 Silverado![]()
1987 Monte Carlo SS 383 ci.
1985 S10 Tahoe 350/TH350 4.10's and a mini spool
yup!
2002 GMC ECSB Z71
2005 Z71 Tahoe
1966 Ford F-100
What machine shop did you use in Midland? Also curious as to what the build cost you at the end of it all?
Last edited by 1TORUN; 01-11-2008 at 03:25 PM.
Aluminim heads 202/160, cam 525/510 - 219/226 - 112 lsa, 50mm tbi, 90lb inj, 15psi fuel pressure, full roller setup, MSD ignition, magnaflow, headers, 3.73 with Eaton posi, 700R4 shift kit and 2000 stall, 255 lph fuel pump, and open air element.
I actually used a machine shop in Big Spring. Everyone in Midland was back up for months. Total build maybe $4k.
Wes
Last edited by 05BlackCrew; 01-11-2008 at 06:12 PM.
2002 GMC ECSB Z71
2005 Z71 Tahoe
1966 Ford F-100
Cool, I've been reasearching and considering building a 383 L31. I've sold myself on the aluminum Edelbrock Etec vortec heads with 200cc runners, 2.02" intake valves & 1.6" exhaust, 64cc chambers. $579.50 per head/ assembled
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I haven't chose a cam yet
I've been looking at this stroker kit, but the +12cc dome on the piston has me weary. I'd build mine for a DD
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku
Last edited by 04SilveradoMykk; 01-11-2008 at 08:19 PM.
Just Wondering If Anyone Has Tried The New Gm Performance Ht383e Smog Legal Drop In Replacement Motor ? Pn:17800393 For Complete Engine With Dist, Pump , And Tin. Also Pn:12499106 Partial Shortblock With Cam. Im Thinking Of Retiring My 350 And Building A Stroker With Their Shortblock.
i definitly wouldnt call it an ultimate 383, just a solid DD
that cam puts power exactly where an lt4 cam would in a 350. You just get a little bit more torque from the extra cubes.
the heads 04 silverado pointed out would make crazy power on a 383, and i know comp cams has some xfi cams that make tons of lift at low duration, thatd be a sweet engine.
EDIT: i dont know if this specifically would work but this is insane. 383 would bring that operating rang down by about 200-300 rpm. If you ran a 200-210cc head that flowed really well at high lift, a 383 would down right snap your neck with a cam like that.
i've never built anything even close to that, but in theory seems like itd be a solid combo to me. Think drivetrain failures would be your biggest issue
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 210
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 210 int./218 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270
Advertised Duration: 260 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with 1.6 Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.560 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with 1.6 Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.550 in.
Last edited by 19doug90; 01-22-2008 at 08:09 PM.
I've been thinking about those e-tec's for my 383 build, is anyone on here running them?
And no i didn't do a search, just seen this thread and was curious
'11 2SS/RS Camaro L99
'08 Silverado CC 5.3
'98 S10 extended cab 4.3
'69 Camaro LSx/4l80e
every gm related message board should have this link stickied http://racingfeed.com/downloads/chevy_flow_data.pdfOriginally Posted by hud697
has flow numbers for every gen 1 sbc head basically
the e-tec 200 cc heads flow 259/204 compared to stock 350 vortec heads flow 222/152. Combine that with the velocity of the vortec style head design, and those 200's shouldnt have any problem breathing enough for a solid 383
hell the afr 195's flow 262/194 and those are pretty much the best heads you can get for a mild (not crazy top rpm motor) 383
Last edited by 19doug90; 01-22-2008 at 08:16 PM.
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