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383 Stroker/ good motor

This is a discussion on 383 Stroker/ good motor within the Performance forums, part of the General Discussion category; I have a 1994 Chevy Z71 1500 4x4 and am getting ready to make it my project rig this spring! ...

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    383 Stroker/ good motor


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    I have a 1994 Chevy Z71 1500 4x4 and am getting ready to make it my project rig this spring! I have a question on the (Chevy 383 Stroker), im looking into having a crazy tow rig out of my truck. My question is whats needed to build a 383 stroker out of my 5.7 350??! My plan is already to go from T.E.S Flowmaster headers to 3" pipes to for each header skip the cat, so (T.E.S Headers, 3" pipes, flowmaster super 44s out in front of each rear tire. so my main questions is the motor here??! Price range for motor is around $1800.00

  2. #2
    2012
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    hey & welcome, you may get some good advice on this forum, but i will do my best b4 you get misguided.

    you need to have a machine shop bore you 350 .030 over. then you need to purchase a 383 crankshaft which is really a 400 stroke = 3.75 but it has the 350 journals. (it will bolt right up) get a 400 balancer for the front, and use a 350 flexplate in the rear. as the crankshaft should also be a 1pc rear main seal.

    that and a cam a little bigger than what you got or better suited for your needs, you want a small duration since you want bottom end and tq. PM if you have more questions. but i got a nasty 383 stroker and its no 350 by all means.

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    Why leave it stock? Polecat's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    Quote Originally Posted by 2012
    hey & welcome, you may get some good advice on this forum, but i will do my best b4 you get misguided.
    pot, meet kettle


    He is correct, but with this added displacement, you know the engine will need to be pulled, rotating assembly, cam FOR the added displacement, then heads if you really want to take advantage of such displacment. Just forwarning you, other than making the motor bigger, you need the rest of the combo, to support it.

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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    Quote Originally Posted by 2012
    383 crankshaft which is really a 400 stroke = 3.75 but it has the 350 journals. (it will bolt right up) get a 400 balancer for the front, and use a 350 flexplate in the rear. as the crankshaft should also be a 1pc rear main seal.
    There will be some grinding to allow some additional clearance for the crank throws (they will contact the block in some places). Also you need new pistons with higher pin locations. Check out this kit from Eagle:

    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku

    I would recommend having a machine shop assemble it all just to make sure it all fits and not do any boring until you have all your parts.
    Last edited by bwood; 01-15-2009 at 04:10 PM.
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    Why leave it stock? Polecat's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    Quote Originally Posted by bwood
    I would recommend having a machine shop assemble it all just to make sure it all fits and not do any boring until you have all your parts.
    much agreed, but I'd have the machine shop bore first, before ordering rotating assembly, just to make sure it can be .030, not .040, or .060, then have the wrong pistons and rings.

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    383 Stroker papa_smurf49319's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    i Always purchase the rotating assembly or pistons before having the block bored! That way i know the piston to bore clearance is going to be dead on, depending on what type of piston i use!
    Last edited by papa_smurf49319; 01-15-2009 at 05:16 PM.
    1990 k1500 Silverado Z71, Built TH 350, 3" Body Lift, 33x12.50x15, 383 Stroker, 6" Rods, KB Pistons, MSD, Holley 750 Carb,Vic Jr Intake 2800 Stall Torque Converter,NOS Cheater System, 20 Gal Fuel Cell, Voodoo Cam

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    "Negative Ghostrider..." 92Phantom's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    I would definitely purchase the rotating assembly before you have the machine shop bore the block. That way everything fits perfectly. And also if you get an internally balanced crank you dont have to use the 400 balancer. Either way doesn't make much difference. When I built my 383 I used the Eagle rotating assembly, everything worked great. Good luck with the build... keep us posted.

    1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 8" Lift, 35 x 10.50 x 15 Boggers, 350, 4-Speed, Dual Flowmaster

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    Why leave it stock? Polecat's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    hope you all never have an engine that has to go .040, because .030 wasn't enough...you'll have some swapping to do

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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    Any competent machinist can look at the block and let you know if .030 will clean it up. Bore gauges are made for that reason. Once you know what will clean up the bores get the pistons and then have the block bored. The clearance required for the pistons depends on the material and type; forged or cast.

    I built my first 383 back in 1983. I started with a 400 crank and ground it to have the 350 mains and made it a small journal crank to get rod 2 cam clearance. Roller cams were way expensive back then.

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    Why leave it stock? Polecat's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    eh, to each their own I guess. When I had my virgin block 509 casting 400, they wanted to bore it first to make sure it'd make the cut to .030.
    I guess it depends on the age, look of the block, and bore at the time.

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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    I stand by my 'competent' statement. In the hundreds of blocks I've run a boring bar through I've never had one not make what I said it would.

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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    might as well swap to roller cam while you're at it. Comp Xtreme 4x4 cams are pretty good. A 08-411-8 might be a good one to look at. If memory serves me right, I think that and a vortec headed 383 will push 480 ft/lbs at 2000 rpm. That's where you need it for towing
    Last edited by 93ChevyTBI; 01-16-2009 at 09:20 AM.
    1993 Chevy 5.7 tbi Z71, vortec heads, GMPP tbi vortec intake, 2" TBI and bored intake, TBI spacer, Comp Cams 08-409-8 XTREME 4x4 roller cam conversion, Hedman full length headers, 3" body lift, 33" tires, Paxton Performance tune (aka 94Blazer383), 4.10's, Hypertech powercharger, built 4l60e.

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    383 Stroker papa_smurf49319's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    Quote Originally Posted by Polecat
    hope you all never have an engine that has to go .040, because .030 wasn't enough...you'll have some swapping to do
    In that case you should be able to tell by looking at it!, and maybe a couple of measurments
    Last edited by papa_smurf49319; 01-16-2009 at 09:44 AM.
    1990 k1500 Silverado Z71, Built TH 350, 3" Body Lift, 33x12.50x15, 383 Stroker, 6" Rods, KB Pistons, MSD, Holley 750 Carb,Vic Jr Intake 2800 Stall Torque Converter,NOS Cheater System, 20 Gal Fuel Cell, Voodoo Cam

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    Why leave it stock? Polecat's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    Quote Originally Posted by IBOHUNT
    I stand by my 'competent' statement. In the hundreds of blocks I've run a boring bar through I've never had one not make what I said it would.
    good for you then...

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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    I know you listed a budget of around $1800, but check the GM Performance HT383

    http://www.sdparts.com/product/12499...P435ftlbs.aspx

    More:

    http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/En...9101&engCat=sb

    This is a new block, Vortec head, roller cam 383 from GM. It uses the standard 4.00" 350 bore but jump to a 3.8" stroke crank. Something to remember if you do go with Vortec heads and want to reuse your TBI, you will need a different intake to mate the two:

    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
    1998 GMC Sierra SLE 1/2 ton 2WD 305 Vortec
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    most machine shops wont bore something until you have the pistons to make sure that everything matchs up. they usually bore the cylinders to the pistons you bought by measuring eveyrthing.

    the xtreme energy cams are awesome. thats what i got in my 86. i just need better heads to complete the package, so i can get the power i should have.

    kids with wrenches 4x4 - hopatcong, NJ.
    proud member of the oobs and obs hood wacker clubs

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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    You guys r alot of help!! When boring to the 383cubic inch, instead of doing 0.30 whats the added benefit of going that extra 0.10 to a 0.40?? Im leaning towards the HT383 becuase of the towing power, so fare I have a set of T.E.S Flowmaster Headers, a set of Flowmaster Super44 Mufflers and 3" Pipes for each Header in the shop for Max Flow and I also have a High Performance Radiator for that extra cooling and am planning on having my dads buddy build me a HD 700R4 tranny with a mild shift kit and switching out the 1/2 ton axles with HD 3/4 tons with 4.56 gears!! My dad and I shouldnt have a problum putting it togather after the boring, (Hes a crazy good mechanic, has been in it for over 30yrs and im not bad myself :), so my next three questions r what fuel injection and Air Intake should i use to get the most out of the HT383, what torque converter would i want to use to get the best performance (peak torque 435 at 4000rpms and peak Horse power 340 at 4500rpms) and whats the benefit of going to a Vortec Alumunum Head instead of a Cast-Iron or would Corvette Heads be better for flow??
    Thanks Adam

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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    The HT383 comes with a carb vortec intake, so you'll just need larger injectors and a chip tune to make it all run perfectly.

    If you are buying a crate HT383, why are you assembling the engine at all? No need to bore a new engine.

    If you are using the HT383 for towing that would require the 14 bolt rearend, you will want that 700r4 to be as strong as possible. The 4.56 gears will help, but to make the trans last I wouldnt use a tall tire.

    If you are towing you wont need much of a TC, esp. wit the low rpm grunt the TBI injection and 383's long stroke and tiny cam will provide.

    peace
    PAuly
    Last edited by Pauly; 01-31-2009 at 09:23 PM.
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    Registered User Busted Knuckles's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    3" pipes are too big for a 383. Too big for most 454's, too. You need to keep the velocity of the exhaust up for good scavenging, too-big pipes don't do that. You won't need anything bigger than 2 1/2. Your block may already be equipped with hydraulic rollers, you can peek thru the drainback holes in the heads to find out.
    I'd start with a different block, though. Chances are that yours is a 2-bolt, find a good 4-bolt block to start with so it'll take more of a beating. This will let you continue to drive the existing engine until it's time for the swap. You can use just about any head you like, it's not hard to change the angle of the middle bolts in the intake to bolt up. If it's torque you're after, don't go too big, same applies to the intake runners as the exhaust pipes, velocity is the name of the game.

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    383 Stroker papa_smurf49319's Avatar
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    Re: 383 Stroker/ good motor

    oh if you wish buy yourself some 4 bolt billet splayed main caps and have the block machined for them, it will be stronger than a factory 4 bolt.
    Last edited by papa_smurf49319; 02-01-2009 at 12:23 PM.
    1990 k1500 Silverado Z71, Built TH 350, 3" Body Lift, 33x12.50x15, 383 Stroker, 6" Rods, KB Pistons, MSD, Holley 750 Carb,Vic Jr Intake 2800 Stall Torque Converter,NOS Cheater System, 20 Gal Fuel Cell, Voodoo Cam

 

 
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