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350 vortec to stroker

This is a discussion on 350 vortec to stroker within the Performance forums, part of the General Discussion category; Ok, I am wondering how much clearancing I will need to have done on a '98 vortec 350 block to ...

  1. #1
    Z-71
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    350 vortec to stroker


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    Ok, I am wondering how much clearancing I will need to have done on a '98 vortec 350 block to fit a scat 9000 3.75 stroke crank in it, or is there a crank that doesn't need any clearancing to fit.

    Thanks
    1998 reg. cab, 3500 2wd. 5sp. 383, TB spacer, Hedman shortys, flowmasters, msd wires.

  2. #2
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    Aslo depends on what connecting rods are used also. the rods are usaually the parts that come in contact with the block and sometimes the cam.

    You will have to do a "mock up build" to see where it needs clearancing.
    88 gmc- 13.82@101 mph

    91 chevy silverado

  3. #3
    Built Not Bought badburban's Avatar
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    Originally posted by fastredgmc
    Aslo depends on what connecting rods are used also. the rods are usaually the parts that come in contact with the block and sometimes the cam.

    You will have to do a "mock up build" to see where it needs clearancing.


    Some rods will clear with little to no clearancing others need alot more.

    Josh
    94 Burban - too much to list
    04 Dmax

  4. #4
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    what does "stroker" mean, ive been wondering this for a while

  5. #5
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    Its basically a term for a engine that has had its stroke increased to add cubic inches.
    88 gmc- 13.82@101 mph

    91 chevy silverado

  6. #6
    Registered User popeye5523's Avatar
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    are you trying to build a 383 or a 377? doesnt really matter i was just wondering if you where going to punch the block or not.
    good luck with the build.

  7. #7
    Z-71
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    Well, I spun a rod bearing so I'm having to pull the engine and I was going to bore & stroke for a 383 while I had it out, but it looks like it'll be to expensive for me. So I think that I might just go with a cam change, but with vortec heads I'm also looking at some machining to do on them with some expensive tools to get enough clearance for extra lift...Don't know for sure...Any suggestions?
    1998 reg. cab, 3500 2wd. 5sp. 383, TB spacer, Hedman shortys, flowmasters, msd wires.

  8. #8
    Registered User popeye5523's Avatar
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    Well if you dont want to bore the motor because of $$$ reasons (which we can ALL relate too) then i would suggest putting a hydraulic roller cam in the motor, if your going to be running on the street, with around 270 duration and .510". The vortoc heads should be able to handle it but, 2.02"/1.60" valves, double valve springs, stainless seats, alluminium rocker arms, and guide plates would make the heads awsome...but thats all things you can do later... rpm air-gap intake, and a GOOD oil pump...spend $100+, its definately worth it. Lanauti makes a good steel forged 383 stroker kit...comes with crank,rods,rings,pistons,bearings, and complete gasket kit too. I belive that the kits run around $2500, but remember they are COMPLETE FORGED steel.

    hope you get it put together soon

  9. #9
    Z-71
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    Ok y'all,

    I'm going for it! I have decided to go all out and spend the money to put a HOT engine back in! I have already ordered my rods, they are eagle 5140 SIR (6.0 in.). I will be going with the Scat 9000 crank. Not sure what pistons yet, just trying to find an affordable set for 6 in. rods that have about a 19 cc dish to keep my C.R. to about 9.6:1. Any suggestions or comments about the combo?

    Paul
    1998 reg. cab, 3500 2wd. 5sp. 383, TB spacer, Hedman shortys, flowmasters, msd wires.

  10. #10
    Registered User vortec57L's Avatar
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    Hi hotroddually,

    There were two articles in Sport Trck magazine mid to late last year about a 1998 Suburban with a 383 stroker buildup, but lacked a lot of detail on how it was all actually done.

    Earlier this year I helped build a 1998 Vortec 383 stroker motor for my father's 1985 Chevy C30 Silverado with Barry Grant Road Demon carby. I bought a ex-warranty 98 5.7L Vortec long motor, as my father originally wanted Vortec heads and a hydraulic roller cam. This was the cheapest way to get both. All that was wrong was that the rings never wore in properly and were very loose when I removed them.

    I had the machining done at the same shop that does all warranty work and rectification for Mercruiser Australia, so they had plenty of experience with the Vortec 5.7L motors.

    I had the block checked and bored 30 thou oversize and facings milled true to the centre line. This cost me AU$200 and was the only operation done to the block.

    I spent AU$1000 on the stock Vortec heads. This included tidying up my gasket matching I did at home with my die grinder, 3 angle valve job, 30 degree back cut valves, new hardened valve seat inserts (exhaust valves seats were a little sunken) on exhaust sides, spring seats recut for Aussie made Crow 1.43" dual valve springs, mild tidy up of the ports, skim true the head surface and new standard size Teflon positive valve seals on all valves.

    I managed to get a Scat 9000 series 3.75 stroke crank for $AU400 and forged Scat 5.7" rods with ARP cap screws for AU$550 due to trade connections over here. I then got some 30 thou oversize Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons with the anti-friction coating on the skits for AU$400 (only about AU$150 more than normal 350 pistons) and Speed Pro Chrome Moly rings for AU$70.

    I bought an Aussie made Rollmaster billet roller timing chain for AU$70 and had the factory roller cam reground to 214 degrees at 50 thou for AU$250. I bough some new Proform 1.6:1 alloy roller rockers on eBay for US$150.

    For your application, you will need a ROL or Felpro full gasket set.

    Try to get an aftermarket Small base circle hydraulic roller camshaft, or be prepared to do some clearancing of No 1 cylinder conrod like I did on my motor.

    The other clearancing I had to do was to widen the factory sump near the factory oil pan rail. This allowed the longer crank throw some clearance. You will also have to add a a spacer to the end of the factory studs (or ARP studs like I fitted) to keep the factory crankshaft windage tray.

    All other important recipricating and rotating areas were checked with a 3mm thick piece of flexible cardboard for clearance purposes.

    I can try to help you with the part numbers or advice if you run into any problems.

    I am planning to do a similar build up to my 1998 GMC Sierra 3500SL later this year, and then run a Powerdyne supercharger on it!

    Hope this helps. Let me know how you go.

    Cheers,
    ANDREW McKENZIE
    Sydney, AUSTRALIA

  11. #11
    Six Oh Hoe-ing treyZ28's Avatar
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    A stroker wont cost any more. notching a block is like $45 extra. you probobly need a new crank and boring anyway. honestly, if you dont know what you are doing and dont have money to do it again- buy a crate or talk to a professional.

    some pointers:
    dont go overkill, but dont buy cheap stuff.

    Good crank choice, get some good rods (first thing to go), good bearings and hyperutectic pistons.

    you dont need chromoly pushrods, crazy lifters or titanium valves. good ones yes, exotic- no.

    Good gaskets and bolts are ALWAYS required. Make sure you replace the oil pump and such too, get the block hot tanked and bored at least 20 over IMHO.

    some good manley rods, good springs and rockers and you are set. dont get aluminum rockers.

    I always reffer guys to www.cmotorsports.com Most people will try to sell you a billet crank for an OEM build up. These guys will sell you what you need and be honest with you- and they are VERY good with prices.
    03 Silverado
    Go Faster: 6.0 Lq9 , HP Tuners: , TB Converter, LT headers
    Dont stop: 4x4, Built 4L65E, Terragrappelers, Ford Keys, Locker, Offroad lights, 23 hwy mpg!
    Add some Flare: Helo Maxx 6, brush guard, Kenwood deck & speakers

  12. #12
    Z-71
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    Ok, everything is coming together. I have my parts at the machine shop. I am getting the block hot tanked, bored, honed and checked for everything. My machinist said that the engine was a 1 in 10 from the factory. he said there was so minimal wear in the cylinders that they could have just honed it and put standard pistons back in and that's at 137,000 miles. I actually am lucky that everything happened when it did. I had the front cam bearing down to the copper. We figured that the whole problem was probably due to the factory timing chain being to small and it pulled down on the cam and put stress on the bottom end.

    Anyway, My whole set-up is: Keith-Black #164 .030 hyper's with a 19 cc dish, Scat 9000 internally balanced crank, Eagle I beam 6.00" rods, Speed Pro cast claimer rings and Sealed power rod and main bearings. From everything I've heard it is about the best low budget set-up you can get. What do y'all think?
    1998 reg. cab, 3500 2wd. 5sp. 383, TB spacer, Hedman shortys, flowmasters, msd wires.

  13. #13
    Six Oh Hoe-ing treyZ28's Avatar
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    swap KB pistons for federal mogoul. other than that, looks good. I'm not a fan of honing myself, I think you should go .010 over. There has to be some wear there and honing would put a little more space...
    03 Silverado
    Go Faster: 6.0 Lq9 , HP Tuners: , TB Converter, LT headers
    Dont stop: 4x4, Built 4L65E, Terragrappelers, Ford Keys, Locker, Offroad lights, 23 hwy mpg!
    Add some Flare: Helo Maxx 6, brush guard, Kenwood deck & speakers

  14. #14
    Z-71
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    Ok, I've got it back in now It is really great! I'm still in the break-in period so I haven't "gotten down" on it yet, but with just driving around the difference is amazing! The torque is endless!! It is really great. I put a total of about $1800 into it and I don't think I would have saved all that much if I would have just put it back as a 350...Atleast for the difference in power that I got. I am running on the stock computer programming but I think that it would be a lot better with a westers job on it???
    1998 reg. cab, 3500 2wd. 5sp. 383, TB spacer, Hedman shortys, flowmasters, msd wires.

 

 

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