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2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

This is a discussion on 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions.. within the Street forums, part of the General Discussion category; SO!! I grabbed up a decent looking pair of rear shackles with grease zerk for $40 a week or so ...

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    2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..


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    SO!! I grabbed up a decent looking pair of rear shackles with grease zerk for $40 a week or so ago.... NOW, how do I get these behemoth monstrosity leaf spring bolts off this stupid truck so I can change them out??

    I called my mechanic friend and he had 2 suggestions. Niether of which I was too fond of, but one I was willing to try. He said to either cut the head off the inside of the bolt and slide it out via a torch, or use a wrench and remove the nut some to allow for cutting the head off with a sawzall and sliding it out. Either way involved roughly 2 hours labor for the project ($80 around here).

    Does anyone have a different suggestion to get these off easier and simpler?

    The truck is a 2000 Chevy Silverado half ton long bed standard cab 2wd with stock 16 wheels and stock disc brakes.

    Productive suggestions always welcome...

    Thanks to the posters in advance.. I appreciate it.

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    Are you talking about taking out the U-Bolts and possibly blocks? or just swapping the stock shackles out for drop shackles? Swapping in drop shackles is very simple and easy. Doesn't require any cutting.

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    Your best bet is to take the bed off so you have plenty of room to work. It only takes 10 minutes and will save you hours if you run into problems.

    IF you live in an area were they salt the roads you will have some fighting to do but with the bed off it should be rather easy. If you don't get your roads salted in the winter you can probably leave the bed on and they should be easy as hell.

    Un-bolt the bottom bolt first then let the frame down so the top bolt is above the frame, remove it and reverse the process.

    "01 GMC 2500 HD, Bagged, BB Tuned, Dumped exaust, and Race built trans with 2800 Stall

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    I am referring tot he shackles at the end of the leaf springs in back.
    That is what the auction stated these were for. Supposed to be 2"
    lower ride height, which would give it an almost level look to it.

    I live in northeast arkansas, so they dont hardly have to salt the roads, but if they do I am a big fan of getting it off asap..

    what am I looking at as far as removing the bed? this truck was equipped with both rear bumper and in-bed electric brake and lighting connections...

    I would like a really good idea of what my hassles will be and if I am better off just paying a shop to get these swapped out and greased up..

    Here is what my rig looks like although 99% of you already know:















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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    Since you don't have much salt I would shoot for takeing them out without taking the bed off. Especialy since you have a liner. If you run into prblems you have to un-screw the 5th wheel connector, fish it through the hole, pull the liner by lifting it in the middle, undo 6 bed bolts(mine were 18mm), and take three screws out of the filler cap. Lastly unplug the lights. It is slightly more time consuming with the liner.

    "01 GMC 2500 HD, Bagged, BB Tuned, Dumped exaust, and Race built trans with 2800 Stall

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..



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    Registered User custm2500's Avatar
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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    Looks like you have a great chance of them coming out without any issues.

    "01 GMC 2500 HD, Bagged, BB Tuned, Dumped exaust, and Race built trans with 2800 Stall

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    remove both nuts, remove lower bolt, with bed supported on a jack stand and a jack under the rear axle, jack up rear diff until top bolt is close to the bed. There is a space between the frame and bed that the bolt will slide out of, put on new shackle with the top bolt installed, lower jack and replace bottom bolt, then put on both nuts. done.
    Phatsub likes this.

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    just one fast question though.... if I can get an impact in there to remove the nuts, will the bolt stay in place or will it spin like crazy?

    and one more?? this shows the RPO code for 3.73 gears. what size rear diff is it? is it the 8.5 28 spline? I can take a picture and put it up in no time if anyone needs a peek cause I did not see a rear end tag on it when I was having the flowmaster put on it.
    Last edited by Big Ed H; 03-26-2011 at 09:42 PM.

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    The answer to that question lies in the determination if they are seized or not. If they are not seized they might spin but a simple wrench on the other side will stop them from spinning and they should pull out fairly easy. If they are siezed then obviously it won't turn and the nut will come off easy, Then hopefully the impact on the bolt will be able to get it to brake loose.

    "01 GMC 2500 HD, Bagged, BB Tuned, Dumped exaust, and Race built trans with 2800 Stall

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    Well, my question would have been better described as "is the head of them in a NOTCH or something like a square headed stove bolt"

    Since you say they should spin, then that would mean NO....

    Thanks

    I will more than likely wait until I get back in off the truck to try changing them.. Any suggestions on going with a heavier oil to reduce the "piston slap" noise? I thought of 20w 50 syntec blend if it is available. Plus using a partial synthetic I can go longer on an oil change.

    Oh yeah, what size is the rear end in this thing??

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    The bolts are not captured.

    Heavier oil is a half assed way to overcome excess wear in a motor. If you actualy have piston slap a re-build would be in order to fix the problem. I would confrim what the noise is for sure then go from there.

    "01 GMC 2500 HD, Bagged, BB Tuned, Dumped exaust, and Race built trans with 2800 Stall

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    Its the original engine. And it's the piston slap everyone has had problems with...

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    LM7 Outlawz2004's Avatar
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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Ed H View Post
    just one fast question though.... if I can get an impact in there to remove the nuts, will the bolt stay in place or will it spin like crazy?

    and one more?? this shows the RPO code for 3.73 gears. what size rear diff is it? is it the 8.5 28 spline? I can take a picture and put it up in no time if anyone needs a peek cause I did not see a rear end tag on it when I was having the flowmaster put on it.
    8.6 10 bolt 30 spline. You shouldnt need an impact, just two wrenches or a wrench and a socket. Once you break them loose initially, you can usually spin it off the rest of the way with your fingers.

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    Re: 2000 Silverado rear shackle installation questions..

    Well, I managed to get back out over the road, but am back in for a surgery wife is having at 7 am in the morning, so we will head over to hospeetal in about 6 hours or so.

    She is sitting here giving me a dirty look cause I am pecking on this stupid keyboard instead of curled up in bed next to her. Guess I should get off here and head to sleep, gonna be a long day tomorrow.

    I still have yet to tackle the spring shackles. too much else going on for the moment. But at least I already have them.

    Later guys

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