Distributor cap/rotor change 1999 5.7L Vortec

[jkennedyak]

I believe it is time to do a tune up on my rig and in discussing with a mechanic today he suggested I might not want to mess with this since the dizzy is in the back of the engine and in his mind difficult to get to, also something about locktite on the screws from the factory and I might strip or break one or more.

How hard of a job is this? I have done plenty of cap/rotor/wire/plug changes but always with dizzy in front. I do notice that the box over the throttle body looks to be in the way, is that pretty easy to remove? I am new to Chevies and don't want to make a headache for myself.

Thank you,

Joe

[Physh1]

Your mechanic is lazy. I can do a cap and rotor change in 5 minutes on a small block vortec. It can be a tight area to work in but it's normal maintenance...

There is a loctite type substance on the cap screws...it'll be on the new ones too...it can take a little more than normal to get them loose but it's far from hard.

Cameron

[jkennedyak]

i don't so much think he is lazy, but trying to talk me out of doing it. I wouldn't call him "my mechanic" I just rolled into his garage since he is close to my office and he advertises tranny work so I wanted to see what he charged for a tranny service (I really don't want to deal with the mess of a tranny job right now.

BTW: he sounded as though he was trying to prepare me for a tranny rebuild before he asked if I was having any trouble. He feels the tranny in the 1/2 ton Suburbans is weak and prone to early failure. Actually told me he had to rebuild the one in his 99 at 60K miles and that is coincidentally the mileage on mine. I just bought mine yesterday and am not familiar with these rigs, thought maybe once I felt a hesitation in shifting 2nd to 3rd but not since then. I booked my rig at a different shop for tomorrow as this guy just seemed too eager to take another $2200 from me. what are your thoughts on these trannys?

Joe

[Dhorn33]

Why would you rebuild a tranny that isn't broke yet? Get the fluid and filter changed and see how it holds up - and if it goes out then spend the money rebuilding or buy a new one. As far as the distributor cap and rotor - I just changed mine last night and it took all of 10 minutes. There is a plastic thumb screw located on the right side in front of the plastic Vortech box on the engine - remove it and slide the entire air intake assembly forward to get it out of the way. The distributor cap is held on with 2 torx head screws - as is the rotor. I dropped the screws for the cap but was pleasantly suprised to see that the new cap and rotor both came with new screws! Anyway - I cannot believe that anyone would pay money to have this switched out.

[jkennedyak]

this is just the kind of advice I am looking for, thank you. I have had a 1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer and have done a lot of the work on it myself but I have never messed with aything more "late model" than that. I just don't want to screw this thing up. As far as the tranny, one of my concerns was that if I do the fluid/filter and wait it out it may give out on me on the way to Seattle where I'll be departing for Alaska, or worse it may give out after I get it up to Nome then I may be even worse off.

Thank you,

Joe

[NEUMANNZZ]

whats the problem with the tranny now?

[jkennedyak]

that is a good question that I am not sure that I have an answer to but here goes: 1. I just bought the rig with 60K miles. 2. I am moving to remote AK and want to catch up on any maintenance stuff that I don't know for sure was done 3. I want to go to synthetic fluids for the extreme low temp 4. I don't want to mess with a tranny filter/fluid change 4. not knowing these rigs it sometimes feels like the transmission hesites between either 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 (I don't recall and have only driven a few days) - but I don't know if this is just built in "slush" or if it isn't shifting right 5. when talking with one transmission shop about doing the service at 60K he basically went into a sales pitch about "most if not all of these transmissions need to be rebuilt at 60K".

So that is what got me concerned. Now I have talked to a different tranny shop and will be taking it there in 1/2 hour and that guy didn't sound like he is so anxious and eager to go straight to a rebuild.

Thanks everyone for all the input.

[KylePBZ]

There is no common time for these to last. I've had two that now have over 200,000 miles, another with over 175,000, and another with over 150,000. Then again you hear about some guys not lasting 10,000 miles. I guess I've been lucky!

Just do the maintenance and hope for the best.

[NEUMANNZZ]

"when talking with one transmission shop about doing the service at 60K he basically went into a sales pitch about "most if not all of these transmissions need to be rebuilt at 60K"."

they are trying to rip you off, go to different shop or dealership. the tranny probably needs a good flushing out.

[jkennedyak]

they are trying to rip you off, go to different shop or dealership. the tranny probably needs a good flushing out.[/QUOTE]

that is the impression I got as well. I took it to a different shop and just finished up. The guy I went to said that everything looked great and that he doesn't usually talk about rebuild until 150K unless there is an obvious shift problem. I had him do the transfer case as well and even left extra money for him and his shop helper to have lunch on me. I was very impressed.

Thank you to everyone here for input.

Now on to fuel injection: Should I have it "professionally cleaned" or is there a reasonably good way to do this on my own?

Joe

[Dhorn33]

Glad to hear you found an honest shop to take a look at your tranny for you. On my last truck - a 93 - I brought it to a tranny shop for a filter and fluid change and he called to ask for permission to change the valve body gasket because he had found chunks in the pan and thought that is what they were from. He also discovered I had a bad brake switch so the tranny was never going into tc lockup. I expressed my concern to him about all the bad press I have read on here and other boards about these trannies - and that I personally know 3 people that have had their go out completely - and he didn't think I should be concerned and told me that everything looked good. I drove the truck another 15,000 miles and towed my 6000 pound trailer with it on several occassions with no problems at all. He could have just as easily called me up and told me that I should consider a rebuild and ask for thousands of dollars - but he was honest and did a good job. Anyway - good luck up in Alaska!

[jkennedyak]

Dhorn: I guess that is good, maybe we found two of the possible 10 honest shops around. I shouldn't say that I suppose as I'm sure there are 100s or 1000s of them but my experience yesterday kinda made me a little skepticle.

joe

[97sierra454]

I saw you have a Wagoneer - are you on IFSJA?

Far as the cap and rotor - it's a piece of cake on a 350. I would definitely recommend NOT using the screws that come with the replacement cap and rotor. Those are what have the loctite on them, and you can strip the distributor body, as it's a composite plastic. Climb right into the engine bay if you have to, but it's an easy job. The tough one is on the 454 vortec, that's 3 times harder!

[jkennedyak]

97 Sierra

I am on IFSJA, that is actually where I caught wind of this board. I have enjoyed my time on that board and learned a lot. I am about to give up my GW as it is just not reliable enough to take up to AK with me. I will miss it, but not all the headaches/time commitments that go along with it. I never got a chance to take it off road and see what it could do but many of the guys at IFSJA claim that the GWs are very capable off road rigs.

Joe