I suggest you DIY cause it doesn't take that much effort to save yourself a lot of money in labor costs. I've never had what I would call a horror story involving replacing balljoints. I have a 99 but I used to have a 93 and if memory serves me right they were the same - the uppers were riveted but my lowers were pressed in. Yours are probably the same. It's kind of a PITA to grind off the rivet heads and punch them out, but once it's done you won't have to do it next time. I'd use a cutting wheel on a drill or on an impact tool if you have a compressor.
The very first thing to do is to buy a Haynes or Chilton's manual on your truck if you don't have one already. It outlines the how tos on several procedures, including this one, and it's a good thing to have.
Anyway, first thing to do is borrow a balljoint press from a parts house for a refundable deposit. Should be about $100, but you get it all back when you take it back. You're also going to need a breaker bar and a socket that fits over the hex end of the balljoint press. Borrow a pickle fork also if you don't have one.
Jack up your front end and support it with jackstands. Remove the cotter pin from the balljoint stud and loosen the castellated nut. Using the picklefork and a 5lb sledge separate the wheel spindle from the control arm. Finish removing the balljoint castellated nut from the balljoint stem and pull the balljoint/control arm assembly out of the wheel spindle. Grind or cut off the rivet heads flush with the control arm, trying not to gouge the control arm. Using a hammer (or your sledge) and punch, knock out the rivets and remove the old balljoint. The new one will come with nuts and bolts. Repeat the applicable steps for the lower, but like I said, the lowers are probably pressed in so you can just use the balljoint press to push them out after you separate the lower control arm and the spindle, setting the spindle out of the way. If it makes sense to remove the spindle first before going after the rivet heads and driving them out, then do that.
The control arms and the cv axle do not have to be removed to replace your balljoints.
When reinstalling the balljoint make sure that it's not coqed (spell editor caught this the first time) otherwise it will bind and reinstallation will be near impossible. Getting the balljoint correctly aligned with the hole is the most important step in the procedure. Also coat the outside diameter (ridged edge) with loctite (a small tube should come with the new balljoints) and it will help lube the balljoint and facilitate it going back in. Make sure your zirc fittings are orientated correctly with respect to the cutouts or dimples in the control arms, so you can access them for greasing after they are installed.
After you get the balljoint started in the hole press it in slowly with by turning the balljoint press with your breaker bar until you get close to full installation, where the shoulder on the balljoint mates up with the control arm. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: At this point go slow and check your progress. The pressing hardware that comes with the balljoint press may not allow for full travel and may actually crush the zirc fitting before the balljoint is fully pressed into the control arm. This happened to me and I went and bought a 1/4" steel plate to use in conjunction with the balljoint press cylindrical adapters.
I hope this helped and you get it done. It's not that bad of a job, but the first time is a little tricky. Good luck.