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replacing main bearings...

This is a discussion on replacing main bearings... within the Technical / Maintenance forums, part of the General Discussion category; well, as i posted in another thread, my Wee-Oh-Five spun a rod bearing and now i have a rod knock. ...

  1. #1
    hucking fates this server FordeatinZ71's Avatar
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    replacing main bearings...


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    well, as i posted in another thread, my Wee-Oh-Five spun a rod bearing and now i have a rod knock. the engine hasn't been ran much at all with the knock, so i'm hoping things will be ok. well, for the time being, to get me by, i want to just replace the rod bearings. i don't expect this to last me years and years, just long enough to save money for a 350 swap. so, here's my question, i have messed with motors before, helped build one a few years back, but i have never replaced JUST rod bearings with the engine still in the truck. so could someone help me out with things i need to look out for doing it this way? the motor is all original and has never been rebuilt. i am an Army mechanic and a fairly decent shadetree so i can definitely find my way around a motor, i pretty much know what i have to do, just looking for some tips and tricks to make it go smoother...

    thanks in advance
    Josh
    Last edited by FordeatinZ71; 04-25-2007 at 01:29 PM.

    2004 GMC Sierra SLE Z71 rcsb, 5.3/4L60E/3.73/G80 time bomb...3" lift, tinted 03+ Silverado tails, plasti-dipped 16" wheels (unknown brand), 285/75/16 Thunderer M/T Extremes, Thrush Welded muffler...

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    Re: replacing main bearings...

    When a rod bearing spins you need to replace that rod.Also check the condition of the crank for size and smooth ness. Rod bearings spin because of excessive clearence.Check the fit of the new bearings with plastic gauge. I would also replace the mains.Good luck.RW

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    hucking fates this server FordeatinZ71's Avatar
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    Re: replacing main bearings...

    thanks man. honestly i know you are suppose to pretty much replace/regrind the rod and the crank and i also know that there is a slim chance this will even work so i've kinda decided against wasting the time/money to even try it. but thanks anyway for the reply. just gonna wait until i can afford a 350 and not even mess with this 305...

    Josh

    2004 GMC Sierra SLE Z71 rcsb, 5.3/4L60E/3.73/G80 time bomb...3" lift, tinted 03+ Silverado tails, plasti-dipped 16" wheels (unknown brand), 285/75/16 Thunderer M/T Extremes, Thrush Welded muffler...

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    Re: replacing main bearings...

    Quote Originally Posted by FordeatinZ71
    thanks man. honestly i know you are suppose to pretty much replace/regrind the rod and the crank and i also know that there is a slim chance this will even work so i've kinda decided against wasting the time/money to even try it. but thanks anyway for the reply. just gonna wait until i can afford a 350 and not even mess with this 305...

    Josh
    If you actually spun a rod bearing then save your time and money. The rod needs to be replaced and the crank needs to be reground. If you try to put a new bearing in it I will be willing to bet it still knocks when you start it and will spin it within a short time. How long ?? As little as when you first start it or shortly there after. You certainly won't be driving it around. I have tried it before and it won't work. You can buy a reground crank and all the rod and main bearings for around $150-200.00.

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    hucking fates this server FordeatinZ71's Avatar
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    Re: replacing main bearings...

    yea, i agree. i'm not gonna buy another crank for this motor either because i don't want to waste any more money on a 305. i want to move up to at least a 350. my gut has been telling me not to even bother and for once i'm actually gonna listen to my gut...

    2004 GMC Sierra SLE Z71 rcsb, 5.3/4L60E/3.73/G80 time bomb...3" lift, tinted 03+ Silverado tails, plasti-dipped 16" wheels (unknown brand), 285/75/16 Thunderer M/T Extremes, Thrush Welded muffler...

 

 

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